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Need something small-er for u-joint removal...

mroneeyedboh

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Dec 30, 2011
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459
So I have a 2006 f250, and the front axle u-joints need to be replaced, along with the ball joints. I dont want to pay someone 40-60 bucks ( I know it cant be cheaper than $40 to R/R them )when that can be 40-60$ closer to a press of some sort.

I dont know what I can buy that will do that for me. I know the HF 12 and 20t presses, but reviews says that they are flimsy.

This is going to be a tool that honestly, wont get used that much...So basically any and all help is appreciated.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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firebox40dash5

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Mar 19, 2012
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You got a vise? I use an air hammer... sometimes in combination with the blue wrench.

If you don't, and you're near Baltimore, you can bring them and a 12-pack to me.
 

Fifelaker

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May 17, 2014
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Fife Lake Mi.
A socket and a hammer has removed and installed many u-joints. Open the jaws on a vice just bigger than the cup and place the socket over the other one and smack it until it gives.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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You guys think a Dake Arbor press at around 1 or 3 tons would work? Guy at work has one for sale...
 
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Brian_B_

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May 12, 2012
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North Central, AR
You can also "rent" the tools you need (ball joint press, tie rod tools, etc)..from just about any parts store. I have never needed a press for u-joints. A "C" clamp and sockets works just fine.

I do have a vice now..but I have always just used a "C" clamp and sockets.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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This is going to be my first time diggin into the truck's front end. Im going to be doing ball joints while Im there too. So honestly, I dont mind buying a few tools...

Could someting like the Snap-on BJP1 work on ball joints and u-joints?

I dont know if there is a difference in u-joints on the drive shaft versus ones on the front axles.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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I do have an air hammer... What about installing it? Just use two sockets and a big c-clamp?
 

GTA Matt

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Zebulon, NC
You can use a ball joint press for the u-joints. Honestly, other then a dedicated u-joint press, it is the easiest and best way to do u-joints without having to beat on the drive shaft. Don't need a lot of fancy adapters for the ball joints on the f-250's, the basic OTC ball joint kit works fine for them. There is also a special tool for installing the front axle shaft seals in the hubs. You can do it without it, but you risk damaging the new seal.
 

firebox40dash5

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I do have an air hammer... What about installing it? Just use two sockets and a big c-clamp?

I usually use a 16-24oz. ball peen and just knock each one in individually. Just make sure you keep the joint seated partially in the opposing cap so a needle doesn't fall between the cap and the cross end. That always *****. :lol:
 
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mroneeyedboh

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GTA Matt, I do know about the seal installer tool ( Im going to make that, very simple )

But with the u-joints, its the front axles ones, not the drive shaft ones.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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Okay... I just wasnt sure if it had enough "***" to remove them. Now to find a good USA kit. Im a stickler for that USA stuff..
 

Advan

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May 25, 2014
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Ontario, Canada
I don't think I've ever done a u-joint with a purpose-built tool! It seems to usually be a hammer and a drift (or socket, lol).
 

BK13

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Mar 1, 2013
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PDX, OR
Sorta related question: is it worth the extra $575 or so for the SO BJP1 verses the OTC kit? I'm not a pro, and I need to replace the ball joints in my '01 F150, and I'm thinking about picking up a project F250 or big Bronco at some point in the near future, so it'll see some but not a lot of use....
 
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mroneeyedboh

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From what Ive read, the Snap on it stout as can be. The USA OTC kits were really nice ( never hear bad... ) but the new OTCs seem to be 80% good, 20% bad.
 

BK13

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Thank, man. Hopefully, somebody local has one I can get my grubby hands on to check out....
 
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MG44

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On a side note, where in the hell are you going to get any legitimate shop to do U Joints & Ball joints on ANY vehicle for a $40 R & R?

Im asking because I had some jabroni come to one of my shops a few weeks ago, 15 minutes before close wanting me to look at an exhaust leak. I said okay, I grabbed a creeper and slid next to his car to see if I can spot the leak. He said oh can't you just put it on the lift to look, I said nope we are closing and they are all full. He then tells me oh well how much to fix it I know a guy who will do it for 25 dollars. I told him I wouldn't even waste my time lifting a vehicle for $25, much less involving a welder, a pipe bender, exhaust pipe, and a technician.
 
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MattPersman

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The snap on is worth it if you are a pro or just a home wrencher that does a lot of ball joints and u joints

The OTC kit is USA made again now as well.

To use a ball joint press you need to hit the back of the press to help the joint caps free up many times
 

MG44

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Both of my shops have the Harbor Freight ball joint presses. I bought them years ago, not sure if anything has changed, but they are the same ones we have been using for 5+ years and at this point they have changed hundreds of ball joints, u joints, bushings etc... with no problem.

Couple of techs have their own kits, Snap-On etc.. they are nice but I thought they were a bit over kill and didn't get them when I was buying stuff for the first shop. I don't regret my choice.
 
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mroneeyedboh

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Thanks guys. I was unaware the OTC was USa again!

HF is damn near 100 bucks, crazy IMO
 

Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
U Joint removal tool

10105%20In%20Use.jpg


Auto and light truck driveline tools

http://www.tigertool.com/
 

FunkyfullWidth

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Oct 3, 2011
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Three Rivers, ma
F series ball joints are a breeze. U-joints can be fun (not really) Even on a 4x4. I see people get confused with the front hubs sometimes. Getting the shafts out of the knuckle can be a task as well. But you gotta get the knuckle right off the truck. Which involves taking off tie rods, removing axle shafts and hubs, and seperating the ball joints from the inner c on the axle. The bottom nut is like 1 1/8 or some bigger size, which can ****. But the best tool for this job is definitely a beefy ball peen/dead blow. Getting them out, I beat them until they cry and lay motionless on the floor. New ones you gotta use a bj press. I bought one at crapa and it's served me well for about 5 years. The otc ones are good, and if I had to do it again, would go otc.


Im saying if I bring in the axle...

You would go through all that trouble to save a few bucks? That's intense. No offense, but you sound like a typical customer that thinks everything is cheap, and everything takes 5 minutes. Even with the axle in front of me, i'd be tempted to say i'd charge about 150-200. I just looked it up. The book says 2.4 hours for upper and lower ball joints PER SIDE. and .4 hours per side for u-joints.. So 5.6 hours. Lets rough out a hourly of 80 bucks an hours. Your lookin at like 448. Now unless the truck is real rough, it won't take that long. but then an alignment.
 

Buckgnarly

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VT
If you are willing to pay for the Snap On BJP1, there is NOTHING out there that even comes close. I have done u joints with everything from hammer, sockets, vise, ball joint tool, and other than the Tiger tool the BJP1 is king.
As for ball joints, BJP1 no question.
That said, good luck finding a used one. I scored mine from some crackhead selling off his tools for 250 IIRC....used are usually only like 150 less than new.
 

platform389

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Nov 18, 2011
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107
You can also "rent" the tools you need (ball joint press, tie rod tools, etc)..from just about any parts store. I have never needed a press for u-joints. A "C" clamp and sockets works just fine.

...and you better make sure the press isn't bent. Last loaner I attempted to use was badly bent from the previous user. Happiness is a 20 mile one way trip for nothing.
 

nesw20

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Oct 17, 2013
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182
yep, i vote for tool rental, but as platform said, check the condition first. since you said you're not going to use them much, best to not pay a dime!
 
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mroneeyedboh

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Dec 30, 2011
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You would go through all that trouble to save a few bucks? That's intense. No offense, but you sound like a typical customer that thinks everything is cheap, and everything takes 5 minutes. Even with the axle in front of me, i'd be tempted to say i'd charge about 150-200. I just looked it up. The book says 2.4 hours for upper and lower ball joints PER SIDE. and .4 hours per side for u-joints.. So 5.6 hours. Lets rough out a hourly of 80 bucks an hours. Your lookin at like 448. Now unless the truck is real rough, it won't take that long. but then an alignment.


Eh.. I'm talking about just pressing out the u-joint if it was too tight. Not the whole ball joint/u joint project.
 

ex-x-fire

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Nov 10, 2012
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Sheboygan Falls Wi.
You are going to need a BJ press to do the ball joints, so use it to do the u joints too. If this is a one time deal, why not rent one?
Make sure you clean up the area were the clips sit, any rust can make reinstalling them tough.
 

ex-x-fire

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If I was going to use a press to remove u joints, I'd make one of these, it presses on the cross to remove the caps one at a time. A lot less likely to bend something.
 

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rtole

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Jan 25, 2014
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I vote a cheaper ball joint press. I have the snap on kit........and honestly I love the heck out of it......but it is crazy expensive compared to the otc kit that the shop has. It was an impulse thing for me. It has not paid for itself for the difference between it and the otc kit. Still it is nice nice nice. I wont go back now........since I have it I wont give it up, but I would have been happy with the otc kit too. And I could have bought more adapters and saved some money.
 
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