New Garage foundation too low - HELP!

[EnchantedForest]

Hello, I'm a long time lurker that's finally in the stages where construction has started on my garage. This is gonna be a long post so bear with me.

I contracted with an Amish builder to put up a 24'x30' garage including the site work. I have a sloped lot and had planned on the garage to face the rear alley behind my house, and for it to be level or slightly elevated from the surface of the alley. When the crew arrived to begin digging the footers, he asked me where I wanted it and how high, when I told him I want it level with the alley, he looked at me like I was crazy and asked "Are you serious? Do you realize how much extra that's gonna cost?" He then suggested a "slight" drop of 12" over 12'. I wasn't in the right state of mind since I just got back from a long vacation the day before they started, and didn't put up a fight. HUGE MISTAKE. Fast forward a couple days and I get home from work to see the finish work being done on the concrete. It looks great, except is FAR lower than what I expected to the point where 2 of my cars can't actually drive into the garage.

Since this is the most expensive thing I've ever spent money on other than my house, I'm extremely upset that I was 'guided' to lower the height of the slab, creating a garage that's essentially useless for its intended purpose. I called the foreman to complain that I feel a little bamboozled by their "guidance" and absolutely need the slab raised at least 2 courses of blocks, if not 3. The alley isn't perfectly level so the one side of the garage is 18" lower than the alley and the other is 12". I actually paid extra for a front apron that slopes downward, but this actually makes the transition area worse since I'm dealing with 18" of drop over 9'.

The builder is willing to come back and add new courses of block and concrete, but doesn't want to eat any of the cost. They gave rough numbres of $5k for adding two courses of block to give me 16" of height and $7k to add three rows to add up to 24".

Am I in the wrong here? From the beginning stages of planning this in January, I've been clear as to what I want, and the drawings and plans reflect the proper grading that I expected. I feel like a major change like this that wasn't reflected in writing is not ok. I may be guilty of not putting up enough of a fight when lowering the grade was suggested, but I feel a little betrayed by a professional misguiding me so badly. I understand if the grade in person is worse than what was quoted for, but I wish they just dealt with me on the exact cost of change rather than trying to convince me to accept something that's less than what I planned for.

Here are some photos to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with. I just don't understand how a professional masonry company would suggest this.

 

[EnchantedForest]

Here are the original drawings for the site work.

 

[sleek98]

Wow that seems way off.

So the footer crew decided to lower it or was the foreman on site? That doesnt look like a 1" per foot drop.

The slope into the garage could be alot better, making it more useable but its going to take a decent amount of fill and another pour.

 

[GMCGarage]

Do the drawings give a top of grade or slab elevation? What did you have in the contract too?

 

[EnchantedForest]

There were only two guys that did the work, and I'm not sure if the guy that suggested it is a foreman or not.

The drawings don't give a number as far as the actual elevation, only an approximate elevation, but the drawing sure don't look like what they built.

Here is the exact wording of my contract. (side note, this was originally designed as a 24x24 with an attic then a change order was done to reflect changing to a 24x30 without an attic:

CONTRACTOR NAME HERE (the contractor) proposed to furnish all listed material and labor necessary for the
completion of the following job specifications:
Size: 24’ x 24’ Detached Garage
Siding: Vinyl
Style: Gable-8/12 pre-fab gable truss
Siding Color: Samples mailed to Home Owner
Trim Color: White
Shutter Color: None
Shingle Color: Owens Corning Duration – Brownwood
Detached / Attached to any existing building Structures
Standards Specifications (see upgrades for changes)
● 2’x4’ 16” O.C. Wall Construction.
With pressure treated Sill with Anchor Bolts
Foam Sill Seal
● 8/12 Roof Pitch roof
● Prefabricated Engineered Truss’s.
● 8’ 2” Wall Height..
● 7/16” OSB Sheathing
● 30 lb. Tar Paper Drip Edge.
● Wrapped Aluminum 12” Soffit on Eaves
● Wrapped Aluminum 4” Soffits on Gable.

● Pressure Treated Sill Plates.
• Lifetime GAF Timberline Architectural shingles.
● Trim/Siding/Shingles Color- Stock Colors (Samples Available)
● (1) 16’x7’ Overhead Door –Aluminum Raised Panel.
● (3) 30”x36” Single Hung (6) Six Light Insulated Windows.
● (1) Pair of Shutters per Window- NONE
● (1) 36” Solid Raised Panel Door w/ 9-light Glass.
● Rough Grade Finish NO GRASS SEEDS, RAKING, PICKING UP ROCKS
● No off site removal of any materials (dirt, rocks or anything dug up during excavation)
We can match any color for the Trim/Siding/Shingle/Shutter at an additional cost to the customer.
BLUEPRINTS:
Engineered Seal Plans _XXX_YES ____NO Cost............$***.00
PERMITS:
Customers are responsible for all costs associated with application and permit fees. CONTRACTOR will
schedule all required inspections.
MASONRY / SITE WORK:
1. -Excavate and install foundation. Including all materials and labor
Including, footers, block wall and 4” poured floor. -to be designed by our engineer and approved by
Pittsburgh building officials.
We will meet or exceed state and local building code.
$X,***.00
2. Additional cost for grade slope approx.. 5’ ...$X,***.00
Foundation cost is based on a clear and fairly level site.

Upgrades/Changes-
CONTRACTOR agrees to supply all materials labor to construct garage to match blueprints and plans

supplied by Drafting Concepts LLC and approved by owner

1. 8/12 attic truss package with 3⁄4” floor, staircase, and 2-additional windows.
...$X,***.00
2. Owens Corning Duration Shingle (Brownwood). ...$***.00
3. Add 10’ ridge vent. ...$***.00

TOTALS
Building Structure....................................$**,***.00
Upgrades, Site Work, Foundation & Masonry & Engineering -added total......$**,***.00
Total.............................................. $**,***.00

Contract Total...............................$**,***.00
Written Full Amount of Contract-
*** *** Dollars 00/100 ***
Down Payment required to start (Engineering & Materials will be ordered)
$X,***.00
2rd Draw due upon completion of Site work, foundation installation.
$**,***.00
BALANCE IS DUE on DAY OF Building Completion.
$**,***.00. (our garage doors are installed by a 3rd party overhead door company and may be installed 1-2 days
after installation)
Both parties agree:
●This agreement includes all labor and material.
• Local building codes may affect our specifications and add additional materials
and or Labor. It is agreed any changes by your local building department are the homeowner’s
responsibilities.
• CONTRACTOR. is fully insured with both workman’s compensation disability and liability insurance.
• All material is guaranteed to be as specified and the work will be completed in a
Workman like manner in accordance to specifications.
• Any and all alterations or deviations from the above stated specifications
Involving extra costs and materials will be executed by CONTRACTOR
A customer signature is required. An updated contract will be mailed or faxed at customer’s request.These Changes if
any may turn into an extra charge, over and above this agreement.
By signing and returning this document you (customer listed above) agree to all costs as stated in the above
specifications. All costs, materials and specifications are satisfactory and are hereby accepted.
• CONTRACTOR guarantees all material and workmanship to be free from any defects for a period of (1)
one year from date of completion. Any defect in materials or workmanship will be corrected at no cost to
the home-owner.
• CONTRACTOR. may enter our property for the garage installation. CONTRACTOR is not responsible for
damage to grass, shrubs, sidewalks curbs or driveways.
Pennsylvania State law requires we inform all clients they may cancel this contract within (3) business days of
signing this contract and receive a full refund of their deposit with no penalty and is non-refundable after 30 days.

 

[EnchantedForest]

These images of the drawings should show better detail.

 

[tthornto]

I'd ask them to cut the apron leaving about 4" outside the door, and remove the rest of it. Then install a channel drain and re-pour a new (longer if possible) upward sloping apron. If the longer apron isn't possible then adding some gravel/regrading in front of the apron would help. It would be a lot less work and the way that alley slopes you would have a problem with water running down the slope and into your garage door anyways, so if you can get them to install the channel drain it might actually save you money in the long run.

 

[EnchantedForest]

I'd ask them to cut the apron leaving about 4" outside the door, and remove the rest of it. Then install a channel drain and re-pour a new (longer if possible) upward sloping apron. If the longer apron isn't possible then adding some gravel/regrading in front of the apron would help. It would be a lot less work and the way that alley slopes you would have a problem with water running down the slope and into your garage door anyways, so if you can get them to install the channel drain it might actually save you money in the long run.

Yeah, I get what you're saying about trying to reduce the transition slope, but at this stage, I feel like it really just needs to come up higher. I have two cars that are pretty low to the ground that I want to house in the garage. Even driving my MDX onto the pad was a challenge.

 

[EnchantedForest]

That's a nicely drawn up contract.
It does not cover you on the height of grade.
What MIGHT cover you is a local covenant concerning buildings not being placed below grade.
If it passes, pay the extra and be proud of your new floor.
Floor height will affect ceiling height which will affect roof height which will be affected by height restrictions.

This may have been the basis for the deeper set of the building. Overall height restrictions.

Piss that guy off and you'll get the floor you want with a six foot ceiling height.

I actually already had to change my original design due to a 15' height limit for accessory structures here. I originally had a 24x24' design with an attic, but was over 17' tall. The new redesign is a 24x30' with no attic and 14' 11.5" tall. I don't think the sudden decision to lower the grade was in relation to the final building height at all. I assume it was an attempt to save cost that in the long run is going to cost me much more.

 

[rayra]

And in this topic we have reinforced the lesson of needing to closely supervise how your money is being spent and that there be required signoff at each stage of work. While **** like this can be corrected at lesser expense.

Don't see how any local govt signs off on something like this being built below grade. It's asinine on its face.

 

[slimpickins]

So... you're on a sloped lot with a 15 foot height limit for buildings? It looks like about 3 feet difference in elevation from front to back so exactly where do they measure the height of the building? If it's measured from grade, then where on the slope do they measure from? If it's from the pad, then who cares what the height of the pad is?

I'd be upset about the height issue as well but since you agreed to it verbally ... sorry to say that you may be out of luck for getting any remedy here. Maybe talk to a lawyer?

 

[ptgarcia]

Don't see how any local govt signs off on something like this being built below grade. It's asinine on its face.

Stuff is built on downslopes like this all the time. There's nothing inherently wrong with it. The problem here was hiring a contractor to do the work of a civil engineer.

 

[JimNC]

Just to get you out of your box a bit, what happens if you redesign the structure to face 90 degrees CCW from the original plan? Would require some additional grading and maybe a retention wall as well, but you could also build a modest outdoor area in front of the garage.

Just a crazy thought.

 

[EnchantedForest]

The final height of the building has nothing to do with them wanting to lower the foundation work. The height issue was only an issue during permitting process. The guys building the foundation weren't involved in the conversation about final height.

If I raise the foundation two feet higher, the building is still less than 15' high. That isn't my issue.

 

[EnchantedForest]

Just to get you out of your box a bit, what happens if you redesign the structure to face 90 degrees CCW from the original plan? Would require some additional grading and maybe a retention wall as well, but you could also build a modest outdoor area in front of the garage.

Just a crazy thought.

I actually had considered that as a possible solution, but the way its set right now, as a 24x30 the 30' wide faces the alley and is setup for a three car entry. One 16' wide door and one 9' wide door. If I rotate the entry way I lose an entire bay. Also the entries for the doors are already setup that way in the block spacing facing the alley.

 

[matt_i]

He then suggested a "slight" drop of 12" over 12'.

I'd measure and see if it meets that standard, use a laser level with sensor to be sure. If not then I think you are well within rights to say that he suggested this and then didn't actually follow his own suggestion.

The "official standard" from where a building's height is measured is a tricky one, especially on a piece of ground that's skewed on two planes. Possibly its called out on a drawing.

I think the functional issues of driving your cars without scraping the front fascia off and how to deal with stormwater going downhill towards your building are not insignificant.

In this case I highly recommend taking a step back and thinking carefully thru the options. Its probably not reasonable to think the contractor is going to eat $5k of cost to fix it on his own dime. He needs to feed his family and gifting work and materials to a customer is incongruent with that basic premise. So now comes the negotiations where the builder is trying to suggest all alternatives that minimizes his cost and pacifices you. What I'm driving at is I think you are going to have to fork out some more coin for materials. I think its reasonable to ask for a discount on their labor, especially if they didn't meet the standard above. But you want a "fix" that's going to be functionally correct. Eventually your budget will "forget" about the cost of the project (including overruns), but having water run under the door every time it rains, or scraping the fascia off every one of your vehicles is something thats going to stick around forever.

 

[Radix2]

your drawings show 3 course of block at the road and specific depths at the rear - did you get those dimensions?

if you got less then it seems open and shut that they reduced the materials outside your contract.

if what you have is already 3 course and you needed 5 or 6, then that is another story perhaps.

 

[EnchantedForest]

I'd measure and see if it meets that standard, use a laser level with sensor to be sure. If not then I think you are well within rights to say that he suggested this and then didn't actually follow his own suggestion.

The "official standard" from where a building's height is measured is a tricky one, especially on a piece of ground that's skewed on two planes. Possibly its called out on a drawing.

I think the functional issues of driving your cars without scraping the front fascia off and how to deal with stormwater going downhill towards your building are not insignificant.

In this case I highly recommend taking a step back and thinking carefully thru the options. Its probably not reasonable to think the contractor is going to eat $5k of cost to fix it on his own dime. He needs to feed his family and gifting work and materials to a customer is incongruent with that basic premise. So now comes the negotiations where the builder is trying to suggest all alternatives that minimizes his cost and pacifices you. What I'm driving at is I think you are going to have to fork out some more coin for materials. I think its reasonable to ask for a discount on their labor, especially if they didn't meet the standard above. But you want a "fix" that's going to be functionally correct. Eventually your budget will "forget" about the cost of the project (including overruns), but having water run under the door every time it rains, or scraping the fascia off every one of your vehicles is something thats going to stick around forever.

I agree with you completely. I honestly don't expect them to eat the entire cost of the fix. But I would appreciate a good effort to offer me a reduced rate. I'm not taking food off of anyone's table by asking for that. Masonry Company Name LLC can absorb a loss a lot easier than me as an individual, with the money coming directly out of my pocket.

My major hang up is the builders suggesting this idea of lowering the slab in the first place. I've never built anything before or had any concrete work done before. They build concrete literally everyday they work. I would think they should have foreseen the potential issues they're creating by lowering the pad better than I could have. I wish they had encouraged me to work with them on the price of having it where I originally asked for. Attempting to "save" cost by lowering the slab introduced a huge amount of usability issues as well as drainage issues. I really just don't get why a professional would suggest doing this as a solution.

Like I said, my main fault here is not arguing with them that any variation from the original plans isn't acceptable.

 

[Radix2]

Also, this change was not discussed with the builder himself ? but the people doing the concrete work ? was the builder there? I am assuming this is a "builder"- general contractor and the concrete is a sub or at least under the command of the "builder"?

- Your builder is a fool if he allows major decisions like building elevation to be set/changed without his direct involvement - so he bears some responsibility if this is the scenario.

 

[GMCGarage]

..... Masonry Company Name LLC can absorb a loss a lot easier than me as an individual, with the money coming directly out of my pocket. ..... I really just don't get why a professional would suggest doing this as a solution.

Like I said, my main fault here is not arguing with them that any variation from the original plans isn't acceptable.

The professional should have been the engineer or architect to check the grades.

If the plans are clear about the slab elevation, then you need to hire a lawyer.

If it was agreed upon, then you should not expect those with deeper pockets to fix your mistake.

 

[EnchantedForest]

Also, this change was not discussed with the builder himself ? but the people doing the concrete work ? was the builder there? I am assuming this is a "builder"- general contractor and the concrete is a sub or at least under the command of the "builder"?

- Your builder is a fool if he allows major decisions like building elevation to be set/changed without his direct involvement - so he bears some responsibility if this is the scenario.

Correct. The concrete work was subbed to the masonry company. The builder or GC was not there and was not involved in any discussion changing the level of the garage. The suggestion to change the level was one of the masonry workers who I'm not sure of his title, he may or may not be considered a foreman.

 

[buddyboy]

the concrete/block guy should have checked with the builder before making the changes.

the builder probably cut a deal with the concrete guys and when the concrete guys got to the job they realized that the job entailed more then they bargained for

just a guess

I would talk to the builder, the builder could go back on the concrete guys and say, " hey we had a deal for X and you did Y, so I expect either you correct it or take less money"

this could be true because they said that everything would be engineered to code, a 3 course block wall might only need to be 8" thick while an 5 course might need to be 12" thick...it's almost double the fill and pressure on it.

talk to the builder

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

I'm sorry but looking at the sketches or plan/blueprint for your garage it does not look like your garage apron should be sunk down the way it is. Whenever I build anything I look at the blueprints and base everything off of that.

I would not want a garage with an apron like that. If you have a lower car just pulling in and pulling out will drag and for me building a new garage that is unacceptable

I would want at least an additional course and half (12 inch high) of block work for the foundation, and for the actual floor you can pour another right on top of that one.

I am a mason contractor as well and if I was building that and saw that height I would be on the phone in a heartbeat because it just does not even seem right to have it that low


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JerryB]

Your situation clearly demonstrates why there are written contracts that cite the appropriate project descriptions, specifications and drawings. Prior to commencing construction, these are agreed to by all involved principles. This acceptance is shown by the signatures on the contract.

Anyone (including a subcontractor or even a carpenter or plumber) seeking a change from the approved and contracted design has to get that change acknowledged in writing and signed off by the contracting principals. This a termed a 'change order.' Change orders usually also include acceptance by the designer and permitting authority.

This means (for example) that a grading or concrete sub-contractor can not suddenly decide to change the design by simply asking the owner if it is okay.

Don't think in terms of 'how can I fix or accept the grading / concrete suppliers screwup.' That is not your responsibility. Simply point out (to the prime contractor) the original design and politely tell him that he has a problem that he needs to fix.

If there was another solution, it would be described in the contract. Your situation is exactly why there are written contracts, and why real contractors have errors and omissions insurance.

Bottom line: Don't accept anything other than what you contracted for. Having your new building 'almost accessible' is not a solution.

 

[JimNC]

I agree with JerryB.

You have an agreement with the contractor, the contractor has an agreement with the sub, doesn’t really matter if the sub asked you about an ad hoc change as you don’t have an agreement with him. At the very least ask the contractor to sort it out and see what he says.

 

[T_R]

How many cars need to go in and out daily? If only 2, put a driveway in and move the doors to the side. Have one bay face the alley make some wood ramps for when you have to use it.

 

[-Brent-]

Not to be a jerk but where were you when the sitework was being done? Where was the GC? That's where this issue started.

 

[finn]

He's got a contract with the contractor, but verbally ok'd a change with the sub.

Why should the contractor eat the cost of a change he didn't initiate, or, it sounds like, even agree to implement?

The correct answer when the sub suggested the design change is " let's get the general contractor involved and hash this out."

You agreed to a change, and should live with the consequences, which will be costly. Fix it before you build an unusable garage.

Education is rarely cheap.

 

[n20junkie]

Unfortunately the OP gave the OK to the change. I believe the GC should have been their, bit the owner went along with a proposed change without checking himself that the change would indeed be OK.

This will turn into a real finger point session/******* match. In the end, the OP will be out money to have things the way he originally intended.

Contractors are like used car salesmen. They NEVER suggest something that will cost them money or time. They are trying to weazle every sent out of the job.

 

[69gp]

I would check with building department. Not sure where you live but they may have a requirement dealing with what the percentage of the grade shall be for a driveway. If it does not conform with the local AHJ then it does not matter if you told the sub to make any adjustments to lower the garage. It would be for the contractor to ensure that the garage and all work associated with the work meet the code. Other than that I would say throw 2 courses of block on the wall add some gravel and then a new slab.

 

[MikeF2316]

I agree with what Matt wrote. It's got to be fixed now, even if it costs the OP $5 or $7 grand. Otherwise, it'll just irritate him to the end of time. And any solution to flooding will have to be meticulously maintained to work properly (leaf removal, etc.)

Around here, they measure building height from the center of the street at the centerpoint of the lot. If that were the case there, then the math is easy.

 

[joes169]

Geez, what a cluster-fox-trot.

This is another example of why I wince when people brag about what a great deal and excellent job they got from an Amish crew, when I see this kind of fleecing from them all of the time.

OP, what state or area do you live in? I can't imagine anywhere in the US where you wouldn't either need anchor bolts or straps embedded into pilasters, or where drill in anchors would be approved without an engineer's stamp, other than the back country. Do a little homework on the code for these in your area, you could have something else to hold against the foundation guy.

As for the elevations of the slab & foundation, that's complete non-sense. THey know what they did was stupid, your GC know's its' stupid as well. In my 25+ years around this stuff, I've found the easiest approach to a stubborn contractor is to simply ask them if they'd be willing to live with that mess at their house/garage.........

 

[Radix2]

You are being far too nice by accepting responsibility for "accepting" the change. While you may have gone along, it was on the word of that person that the change would meet your requirements- i.e. - you didn't accept "sure build a floor that I cant get into" - you accepted his word that what he was proposing was a valid solution - it wasn't and that is not your fault.

You did make a mistake by not getting the GC over there immediately - but the GC also is responsible for his subs making a stupid decision in talking you into a change that is not going to work - as you said - they are the pros that work this stuff everyday, seeing if they can get the customer to accept a bad idea is not professional - he doesn't get to walk away from responsibility for what his sub does - whether it is bad concrete or bad advice.

 

[cgrutt]

First off sorry you're going through this. But looks to me like the structure was built to spec in drawings, aside from the grade. Looks like 3 courses of block in front and 7 courses of block in back, with four above grade. I see three courses above grade from one of the pics on side and assuming there are four in back. Was the drawing wrong for the site? Looks like you need several more courses of block that aren't in the drawing to get above the front grade based on your site. Who did the drawings?

 

[mbatarga]

I don't know if this makes sense, but to me it seems the issue is the building is set too far back from the "alley."

 

[tapered-pin]

it's not a huge issue, easily fixed with a 12" wide traffic rated trench drain across the front of the slab and french drain system which moves storm water around to the back of the slope..

while it doesn't really meet the grade you discussed, you're going to end in a huge legal battle and it'll cost you much more than planned if you proceed with "rip it out and install it per the conversation"...

 

[EnchantedForest]

I don't know if this makes sense, but to me it seems the issue is the building is set too far back from the "alley."

I'm fine with the placement as far as the distance from the alley. If it were any closer to the alley, the angle of approach would be much worse than it is now. An 18" drop over even less of a distance would certainly make it harder to use.

 

[EnchantedForest]

First off sorry you're going through this. But looks to me like the structure was built to spec in drawings, aside from the grade. Looks like 3 courses of block in front and 7 courses of block in back, with four above grade. I see three courses above grade from one of the pics on side and assuming there are four in back. Was the drawing wrong for the site? Looks like you need several more courses of block that aren't in the drawing to get above the front grade based on your site. Who did the drawings?

So, the drawings were done by the GC or atleast the company he uses to create them. The courses of block that are there are about the same courses in the drawing, but apparently the slope is slightly worse in person than their drawings. So in order for it to have been level with the alley, 2-3 courses more would have been required.

In my mind, they should have said, "The drawings don't accurately reflect how severe the grade of your land is. We'll need to add 2 courses of block and extra stone which will increase the cost X amount of dollars."
I wish we had that conversation instead of listening to him say that the 12" drop would be reasonable.

 

[EnchantedForest]

Geez, what a cluster-fox-trot.

This is another example of why I wince when people brag about what a great deal and excellent job they got from an Amish crew, when I see this kind of fleecing from them all of the time.

OP, what state or area do you live in? I can't imagine anywhere in the US where you wouldn't either need anchor bolts or straps embedded into pilasters, or where drill in anchors would be approved without an engineer's stamp, other than the back country. Do a little homework on the code for these in your area, you could have something else to hold against the foundation guy.

As for the elevations of the slab & foundation, that's complete non-sense. THey know what they did was stupid, your GC know's its' stupid as well. In my 25+ years around this stuff, I've found the easiest approach to a stubborn contractor is to simply ask them if they'd be willing to live with that mess at their house/garage.........

I live right outside of Pittsburgh PA in a small borough. I'll have to check about the anchors.

 

[EnchantedForest]

Your situation clearly demonstrates why there are written contracts that cite the appropriate project descriptions, specifications and drawings. Prior to commencing construction, these are agreed to by all involved principles. This acceptance is shown by the signatures on the contract.

Anyone (including a subcontractor or even a carpenter or plumber) seeking a change from the approved and contracted design has to get that change acknowledged in writing and signed off by the contracting principals. This a termed a 'change order.' Change orders usually also include acceptance by the designer and permitting authority.

This means (for example) that a grading or concrete sub-contractor can not suddenly decide to change the design by simply asking the owner if it is okay.

Don't think in terms of 'how can I fix or accept the grading / concrete suppliers screwup.' That is not your responsibility. Simply point out (to the prime contractor) the original design and politely tell him that he has a problem that he needs to fix.

If there was another solution, it would be described in the contract. Your situation is exactly why there are written contracts, and why real contractors have errors and omissions insurance.

Bottom line: Don't accept anything other than what you contracted for. Having your new building 'almost accessible' is not a solution.

Thanks, I agree with you. I wish this is how the process worked for me instead of what happened. I'm expecting a call from the GC today to discuss what his views of my situation are. So far I've only talked to the Masonry company manager/foreman (unsure of his official title).