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New Garage/Shop Heating

cjh20

New member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
1
First, I apologize because I'm sure this topic has been covered, but I want to explain my specific situation. I'm a new member and was referred here from a woodworking forum. I am building a new shop (guised as a garage) and need to decide how to heat it. I will try to give all the relevant information.

Structure: Will be a 500 sf footprint with 10' high walls. Steeply pitched roof w/ a dormer and stairs leading to an upstairs finishing/storage area. 2x6 walls w/ R21 insulation. 10'x8' garage door w/ approx R9 insulation. The roof will have spray foam insulation (unknown R-value).

Environment: Portland Oregon. Winter can get somewhat cold and always wet. Typically we can expect a few cold spells w/ the highs in the 20s. Mostly winter nights in the mid 30s -40 and highs in the 40s. Nothing too cold too prolonged. It is a shop - with dust and everything that goes with woodworking.

Desires: I would like to have a thermostatically controlled heating source. I want to make sure the temperature stays above 35 w/ the ability to reach (about) 60 both downstairs and up. I would like to keep the price below $300. I am able to go higher than that if needed.

I will not be able to use natural gas or wood burning stoves. I'd rather not have propane. I guess that leaves me leaning to electrical heaters, but haven't ruled out a floor radiant heat (but am within several days of that no longer being an option) with a closed system and small electric water heater.

So my questions are: what range of BTU's should I be looking at? Would radiant floor heating be overly costly (both installation and energy usage) for what I' looking for? Would baseboard heaters (or wall heaters) suffice - or even be safe in a shop?

Thanks for any advise and/or web sites you can give.
 
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krooser

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Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
Radiant floor is the best. I have a gas-fired tube heater but it looks like you're limiting yourself to electric... radiant floor would be #1...IMHO.
 
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uponroof

Active member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
28
Location
sePA
BTUs will depend on how well insulated you are. I would go out of my way and do whatever possible make it a supremely energy efficient space given the inflation that's now in the pipeline. SPF (spray poly foam) is by far the best bet when it comes to creating efficiency. The first time you close the door in a SPF room you'll know how 'tight' it is by the pressure felt in your ear drums.

As far as radiant floor or infrared overhead etc etc, much of that decision depends on how often you'll be in the shop. In other words, if you'll be using it as a full time work location, radiant floor heat is a very good choice.

Once the slab heats up it becomes easier to heat and provides a very comfortable environment. Think of it as working in your socks and still having warm feet.

But if you'll be in this location for only sporadic hours at a time (evenings and weekends) the slab warm up period might not be your best choice.

Instead overhead radiant or a hot air furnace which burns fuel oil or even used oil might be best.

But all of these heating decisions become so much easier and less expensive when you insulate properly. Consider spray foam as it will make that space a virtual cocoon greatly reducing the cost of whatever you decide on. .02
 

HoosierBuddy

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
2,935
Location
Southern Indiana
Desires: I would like to have a thermostatically controlled heating source. I want to make sure the temperature stays above 35 w/ the ability to reach (about) 60 both downstairs and up. I would like to keep the price below $300.

They make a nice little split system heat pump that would probably work great...but not for $300.

If you're going to all the trouble to insulate it so you can heat it/cool it for a reasonable cost, and electricity is your choice of fuel...you should definitely go with a heat pump. The first time cost will be higher, but the operating cost will be lower.

One caution with a heatpump, if you try to jack with the thermostat all the time, you are likely to cause the resistance backup heat to come on...eliminating all of the cost savings of the heat pump over standard radiant heat...so it might be cheaper to leave it on 55 all the time. Just a thought.

Phil
 
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