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New Millscott project

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royce

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You might be able to knurl the pins to increase their diameter where they go into the bore to tighten up the fit- or peen the bore a with a sharp ***** punch in evenly spaced increments- (I like to use a couple of rows) then press the pins into the upset bore. Loctite if necessary.
Thanks Puget, if there is too much deflection in use, I'll do something along those lines
 
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royce

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Got the linear bearing cap set up to counterbore for wipers, about that time ups showed up with the screw and nut.
1-1/4"-5 TPI with bronze square nut.
Now to make a cage for the nut.
 

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royce

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Worked on the spindle today.
After second guessing myself for an hour, cut and faced the spindle down on both ends.
Drilled a pocket for spring and ball detent on the jaw end.
Turned the tail end down to bushing diameter and drilled and tapped the end, 3/8-16 for an end stop and thrust washer.
 

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royce

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Fabbed up a cage for the spindle nut and made the counterbores for the pin wipers, today
 

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matt_i

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Fantastic and I'm looking forward to every update! Did you buy the bronze block pre-tapped in Acme or did another shop do that for you? Making that one internal thread is a pretty challenging detail...I've had some various vise-fab dreams and that's where I always get stuck. Acme can be tapped but requires a multi-stage affair to get it working correctly...Single point or CNC thread milling seems like a more reasonable solution.
 
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royce

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Fantastic and I'm looking forward to every update! Did you buy the bronze block pre-tapped in Acme or did another shop do that for you? Making that one internal thread is a pretty challenging detail...I've had some various vise-fab dreams and that's where I always get stuck. Acme can be tapped but requires a multi-stage affair to get it working correctly...Single point or CNC thread milling seems like a more reasonable solution.
Thanks Matt,
The screw and nut came from an outfit called Dependable Acme, they are in New York.
 
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royce

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After discussing with Kevin about the finer points of silver brazing, here is the joint criteria and brazing procedure.
The spindle is 1.249 Dia.
The bore is 1.255 Dia. x 1.60 deep
This leaves an annular space of .003
That calc's out to .0189 cu in which equates to about 6" of 1/16 56% silver solder.
Preformed a 7"coil of solder to rest on the shoulder of the end bore.
Slathered the bore and spindle with white brazing flux prior to assembly.

Having not silver brazed anything with this much mass, I was a little concerned about getting enough heat on the spindle inside the knob end, without burning the flux.

Used 2 weed burners for both the initial preheat and to bring the knob end up to temp.
The spindle was heated with a #6 welding tip.
The joint was heated to temp, until a ring of solder could be seen at the bottom of the joint.
Then rotated the joint 1/2 turn, while continuing to heat, adding another couple inches of solder at the top of the joint.

It went well and I feel that this a good stout joint
 

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Shiftless

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Fantastic work you guys…what a team!

(Need to heat up a big chunk of metal? Just set it up in between 2 weed burners! The term “cross-fire” comes to mind)
 
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royce

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Fantastic work you guys…what a team!

(Need to heat up a big chunk of metal? Just set it up in between 2 weed burners! The term “cross-fire” comes to mind)
Thanks Shift,
I was pleasantly surprised, getting up to temp in less than 10 minutes
 
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royce

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Fit and installed the springs on the detent balls, installed the pin wipers in the bearing cap, Installed O-ring on spindle knob.
There was a noticeable increase in friction with the pin wipers.
The spindle drag with the O-ring installed is too strong, so I'll replace it with a smaller one.
 

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LXCam

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For the first time ever I’m a bit disappointed Royce. Your guide set up is just too damn gorgeous to cover up. Now toss that cover in the scrap heap and make a lexan shroud 😉
 
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royce

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Worked on stand design today.
Gained some ground, but walked away with a mild case of skull cramps!
 

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royce

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This stand is not like any I have seen or built.
The dual columns pivot at the base as well as at the vise.
This is to make the elevation adjustable.
Anyhow, got the column and base geometry hammered out and dimensioned today.
Need to figure out the bearings on the pivots next.
 

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WoodsTruck

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Looking forward to the mount.

You will have the clamping surface set up to have the vise flat as well as vertical?
 
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