New project, Craftsman Drift Breaker
- Thread starter skeer
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Garcky
Well-known member
Now, that's a beast!
nadogail
Well-known member
A machine like that could chew a large snow drift and spit it far away.
Not really. Many of those older snow blowers were marginal at best. I had a 70's Bolens snowblower with an 8 HP engine. Stock it would blow snow ten feet, barely across the driveway. I swapped out the bower pulley and speeded up the blower and it made a huge difference. I remember many of the older Yardman blowers would blow the snow maybe five feet! The Craftsman machines were decent, but there were other machines that would out perform them.
That Craftsman pictured just has an added on auger to the top of the chute. They made the same model without. Both machines moved snow about the same. The added Drift Breaker helped in deeper snow, but it was still a struggle. Kind of a gimmick.
I had a small engine shop in the 80's and most machines built today will out perform most of the older models, except perhaps in longevity.
Lay the whole machine on the opposite side. Remove the tire. Drill two holes through the rim, near the hub. Use a harmonic balancer puller and bolts to get some pull on it. Chances are it will not be enough. If you have a oxy/acetylene torch hell out of the hub of the rim.
If you don't have an oxy/acetylene rig, I don't know.
When I had my shop I dealt with sized rims all the time. After fighting them using other methods, this was my go to.
If you don't have an oxy/acetylene rig, I don't know.
When I had my shop I dealt with sized rims all the time. After fighting them using other methods, this was my go to.
WillyBoy
Well-known member
It looks like a single stage machine without a separate snow throwing impeller behind the auger.
With this style, the auger has to run faster than optimum because the center of the auger is throwing the snow up the chute.
A two stage, with a separate cutting auger that runs slower, can be more efficient.
That said, it looks like a good candidate for cleaning up and using. Certainly better than hours of shovel work. Good luck with it. After the first snow storm, we'll expect a thorough report.
With this style, the auger has to run faster than optimum because the center of the auger is throwing the snow up the chute.
A two stage, with a separate cutting auger that runs slower, can be more efficient.
That said, it looks like a good candidate for cleaning up and using. Certainly better than hours of shovel work. Good luck with it. After the first snow storm, we'll expect a thorough report.
Keep in mind, on these older machines parts are often hard to find. Cut the wheel into pieces to get it off and you might not find an exact replacement. You can probably find a wheel to fit, but it will involve finding or having a hub built to fit. It just adds to the expense of dealing with an older machine.
That is a 50 year old snowblower, most parts are unobtainium. Heck, I have a 20 year Toro and many parts are NLA. Toro doen't supply a scraper bar or skids. Those parts are easily fabbed so no big deal. But it has a transmission and nothing in the transmission is available!
The other day there was an older Toro snowblower on the boulevard. I walked over and took a look. The owner walked over and said it worked a few years ago, but it had sat and he didn't want to spend the money to get it running, so it was on the curb for anyone to grab it for free. I thought about it for a while and walked away. I am certain I could have gotten it running, and probably sold it as I don't need another blower, but weighing out the money and time spent for what I could sell it for I let it go. it was gone a couple hours later so some scavenger grabbed it.
Zeke
Well-known member
Heat, penetrating oil and patience.
You found out a three jaw will not do it. Trust me, once they get rusted on, they don't want to come off. In my experience it will take the puller like I mentioned, and a oxy/acetylene rig to get it off.
Just and FYI for the rest. When servicing your snow blower, pull the wheels and grease the axles. It will save you or your mechanic a ton of hassle some day.
Just and FYI for the rest. When servicing your snow blower, pull the wheels and grease the axles. It will save you or your mechanic a ton of hassle some day.
Monza Harry
Well-known member
As @PoorUB pionted out this is a marathon not a sprint! I have found that the small puller with a big thread, like his suggestion a harmonic balancer is great for these jobs, put this on and snug this up [tight but not enough to bend your wheel] now add heat, an oxy/acetylene is best, but if that isn't in your arsenal there are some "turbo torches" that will get pretty hot that shouldn't blow the budget, and get the hottest gas you can [Mapp, Brazing Fuel, etc. I'm not sure what is still available], and apply some heat, let that "soak" and then apply your "penatrating oil" of choice and let it be for a day, adjust tension on you puller before you leave it for the day. After a couple of wash rinse repeat cycles (8-10?), while adding some torque and hammer the threaded pullers shaft, don't be shy! This is the B@$+@rd, that bullied your little sister beating required here! Repeat as necessary. Harry
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jonesg
Well-known member
more leverage is gained by pulling from as close to the hub or axle as possible.
Drilling holes in the wheel hub will not work because the wheel is too thin.
I think my blower was from 1986 and well rusted in place.
the solution was to get 2 steel bushings from tractor supply to fit the wheel hub extension and stick weld in place,
then use a pitman arm puller on an air impact to get it moving, then air hammer on the back side to push it off.
trying to use a 3 jaw is an exercise is frustration. Don't bother.
Grind the collar to fit the 2 jaws of the puller if needed to fit the axle.
collar, dents are from air hammer.
ready to pull it looks like this.
laser3kw
Well-known member
you need chains at-least!
jonesg
Well-known member
I welded my chains on.
Mick56
Well-known member
My first house had a gravel driveway. The first snow of the year, I would drive back and forth on it to pack it down for a base. After that I could snowblow and not pick up the gravel.
So I pulled the flywheel, gas tank , and carb today. Yup totally full of varnished gas. Needles cleaned up niceLy, all the holes that should be holes are clear. Float seemed to be good after a light wire brushing. Bowl also is good, no holes.
Soaked the gas line in a light oil overnight to revamp the rubber.. it wasn’t bad to being with but what the hey.
Cleaned up the magneto, points must be pretty new.. very clean. Gap measured good too. She’s got good spark.
So I reassembled it all and gave it a crank. Carb is leaking fuel like a sieve, appears to be coming from above the bowl in a part of the housing that should not provide fuel to the exterior.
It did kinda huff a bit like it was able to fire up.
Tomorrow I’ll rip the carb back off and go spelunking again.
Why is it that snow throwers don’t have air filters? Even with the metal cover on, carbs open to the whole world.
Soaked the gas line in a light oil overnight to revamp the rubber.. it wasn’t bad to being with but what the hey.
Cleaned up the magneto, points must be pretty new.. very clean. Gap measured good too. She’s got good spark.
So I reassembled it all and gave it a crank. Carb is leaking fuel like a sieve, appears to be coming from above the bowl in a part of the housing that should not provide fuel to the exterior.
It did kinda huff a bit like it was able to fire up.
Tomorrow I’ll rip the carb back off and go spelunking again.
Why is it that snow throwers don’t have air filters? Even with the metal cover on, carbs open to the whole world.
sounds like your needle & seat aren't sealing. you said you cleaned up with a wire wheel? there's usually a viton seal on the needle or seat. did you damage that
no air cleaner? no dust in the winter. like boats. no dust on the water
no air cleaner? no dust in the winter. like boats. no dust on the water
no doubt it's the vent hole . and that means either the float is set to high or the needle & seat aren't holding
did you toothbrush the needle? did you make sure the seat that the needle sit in was clean of debris when you re assembled it?
that part of the carb is a bit delicate , need to be careful not to damage the seal
did you get the float hooked back on to the needle properly?did you bend the float inadvertently ?
if I recall a 5/16 drill bit is used to gauge the distance between the float & carb body for proper float height
that part of the carb is a bit delicate , need to be careful not to damage the seal
did you get the float hooked back on to the needle properly?did you bend the float inadvertently ?
if I recall a 5/16 drill bit is used to gauge the distance between the float & carb body for proper float height
Yes.
Yup.
Yes, and yes, lol. I’ve had my share of carbs apart sand I’ve always made sure the float sits level. (When holding the carb upside down). When I first put it in and flipped it over the float was sitting real high. I bent the tab a bit which in hindsight I should have slowed down a bit and checked the seat first.
If 5/16 is the proper gap that would mean the float would sit a bit higher than level but good I do nonetheless.
Soaked the throttle and death wheel engagement cables in power steering fluid (all I had) for a solid day. Freed up the movements really well actually.
While at the JY yesterday I grabbed a couple small red handle knobs of a couple older John Deere mowers, they fit perfect onto the cable levers on this guy. Waiting on the carb kit before I resemble that side of the engine.
So on the stuck wheel.. I did end up cutting the old one completely off. I know I'll get some hate for that but I was tired of fighting that sucker. Was able to drill/tap and use set bolts into the larger set of wheels. Won't be as completely strong as the original with the bolt straight through the axle but it'll be enough. If I sheer the end off a grade 8, 3/8" bolt then I probably did something I shouldn't have.
Will end up mounting some slightly larger diameter wheels on the front where the steel disks are just to ensure the lower front edge clears any gravel it might wanna scoop up.
When I drained the oil the first time there was a good amount of water in there as well. Usually I fill and drain it twice more before I fill it for use. Might not be the best but it's worked out well so far. I did squirt a small amount of oil down into the cylinder and manually worked the piston a full cycle just to try to make sure the whole thing was coated.
While at the JY yesterday I grabbed a couple small red handle knobs of a couple older John Deere mowers, they fit perfect onto the cable levers on this guy. Waiting on the carb kit before I resemble that side of the engine.
So on the stuck wheel.. I did end up cutting the old one completely off. I know I'll get some hate for that but I was tired of fighting that sucker. Was able to drill/tap and use set bolts into the larger set of wheels. Won't be as completely strong as the original with the bolt straight through the axle but it'll be enough. If I sheer the end off a grade 8, 3/8" bolt then I probably did something I shouldn't have.
Will end up mounting some slightly larger diameter wheels on the front where the steel disks are just to ensure the lower front edge clears any gravel it might wanna scoop up.
When I drained the oil the first time there was a good amount of water in there as well. Usually I fill and drain it twice more before I fill it for use. Might not be the best but it's worked out well so far. I did squirt a small amount of oil down into the cylinder and manually worked the piston a full cycle just to try to make sure the whole thing was coated.
Actually, narrow tires have better traction than wide tires in snow.
Those wide turf saver tires are terrible in snow. You will need tire chains.
Back in the 70's John Deere built snow blowers with a 8" rim and a 3.50" wide tire. The tire was about 16" tall. They worked great!
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