Just got a new septic tank and laterals installed on our acreage and asked the installer if we should put rid ex in and he said "no don't ever use that stuff it will plug up the laterals" .Has anyone ever heard of that? I thought that rid ex would be maintenance on the septic and keep you from having to have it pumped so often. What is the deal
New septic tank question
- Thread starter man-a-fre
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you aren't putting stuff down there that doesn't belong, it absolutely doesn't need any snake oil to keep it running.
Toilet paper, **** and water. That's it
Toilet paper, **** and water. That's it
toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,586
It's a hot topic. Personally, I know some installers who recommend it and some who don't. I don't know if there are any studies out there that prove or disprove their value. When we built our house (got a new septic), I flushed a few packets down the toilet over the first couple months to get the action started. We run everything into the septic so a little bleach from the sink and washing machine does get into the septic tank (we use it sparingly). So, I add a package of the septic microbe stuff every 6 months or so. Septic is working just fine.
It's more important to keep fats out of the septic tank.
It's also good to keep toilet paper to a min. It won't hurt to flush some down there but less is always better. So, we installed a toilet bowl mounted bidet. Greatest invention ever! You'll never want to poop on a non bidet toilet again once you've used a bidet. Basically, every time you use it, you use it to wash your **** off and then a little toilet paper to dry off. Some people seem to think it's weird but think of it this way....if you got poop on your hand, would you just wipe it off and call it good? Of course not....you'd wash your hands. The bidet is simply washing your **** off. It GREATLY reduces the amount of TP you'll be using.
Another benefit of the bidet is, when there are TP shortages like we had last year, your supply of TP lasts MUCH longer.
It's more important to keep fats out of the septic tank.
It's also good to keep toilet paper to a min. It won't hurt to flush some down there but less is always better. So, we installed a toilet bowl mounted bidet. Greatest invention ever! You'll never want to poop on a non bidet toilet again once you've used a bidet. Basically, every time you use it, you use it to wash your **** off and then a little toilet paper to dry off. Some people seem to think it's weird but think of it this way....if you got poop on your hand, would you just wipe it off and call it good? Of course not....you'd wash your hands. The bidet is simply washing your **** off. It GREATLY reduces the amount of TP you'll be using.
Another benefit of the bidet is, when there are TP shortages like we had last year, your supply of TP lasts MUCH longer.
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
Instead of using something like "ridx", install a tank filter to help keep suspended solids in the wastewater inside the tank and out of the laterals and your system will last longer.
Years ago we specified "Zabel A-1800 tank filters", but there are many similar ones now.
They are normally plastic and every 3-4 years when you get your tank pumped out, they should get rinsed off and get re-installed in the outlet cleanout. I think they are about $100 or so.
Usually they get PVC glued into the 4" PVC headed for the laterals/D-box or the pump chamber. If it ever "plugs up", rejoice because it just saved your expensive leaching field. I have only had it plug up from poorly constructed outlet baffles that fell to the bottom of the tank and from fish scales in a commercial application.
Years ago we specified "Zabel A-1800 tank filters", but there are many similar ones now.
They are normally plastic and every 3-4 years when you get your tank pumped out, they should get rinsed off and get re-installed in the outlet cleanout. I think they are about $100 or so.
Usually they get PVC glued into the 4" PVC headed for the laterals/D-box or the pump chamber. If it ever "plugs up", rejoice because it just saved your expensive leaching field. I have only had it plug up from poorly constructed outlet baffles that fell to the bottom of the tank and from fish scales in a commercial application.
You don't want any solid material to flow out of the tank and into the field ... Additives can become overactive and foam. The foam will float out of the tank and into the lateral.
Years ago with single chamber tanks going to pits or simple fields -- they would clog up and additives got recommended to attempt to free up the system.
Today the tanks are bigger ... 1500 gallons and multi chamber ... solids should stay in the first tank .. the second should get any floaters that make it through. Don't add anything.
Regular T paper should not be an issue ....most places are starting 3 year pump requirements . not going to fill up the solid side in 3 years
Years ago with single chamber tanks going to pits or simple fields -- they would clog up and additives got recommended to attempt to free up the system.
Today the tanks are bigger ... 1500 gallons and multi chamber ... solids should stay in the first tank .. the second should get any floaters that make it through. Don't add anything.
Regular T paper should not be an issue ....most places are starting 3 year pump requirements . not going to fill up the solid side in 3 years
Instead of using something like "ridx", install a tank filter to help keep suspended solids in the wastewater inside the tank and out of the laterals and your system will last longer.
Years ago we specified "Zabel A-1800 tank filters", but there are many similar ones now.
They are normally plastic and every 3-4 years when you get your tank pumped out, they should get rinsed off and get re-installed in the outlet cleanout. I think they are about $100 or so.
Usually they get PVC glued into the 4" PVC headed for the laterals/D-box or the pump chamber. If it ever "plugs up", rejoice because it just saved your expensive leaching field. I have only had it plug up from poorly constructed outlet baffles that fell to the bottom of the tank and from fish scales in a commercial application.
Mine plugs up every 2 years or so, both my baffles are laying bottom of tank, in and out. I'm thinking I should clean it every year.
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
Next time you pump it out, retrofit it sort of like this.....
I will bet your pumper guy does that from time to time.
I will bet your pumper guy does that from time to time.
493mike
Well-known member
I have two different drain fields and switch between (3 way valve) the two once a year. The drywell boxes scummed over after 7 years causing me to install a regular 4" perforated leaching field. I have had no issues in the subsequent 38 years. No additives, pump every 5-8 years.
Mike
Mike
I had our septic guy stop by to check our 7 yr old septic tank. I had pulled the lid and he was surprised how full of it I am that the tank was not close to needing pumping. TD is spot on with the bidet seat. I speak with the folks from Toto and it is men who are the big fans of the bidet seats. Hairy A**H’s. I always love the comments on these seats. Much to joke about but cleanliness is worth a lot, especially to your *** life. There, that will sell some of them AND benefit the septic system
Next time you pump it out, retrofit it sort of like this.....
I will bet your pumper guy does that from time to time.
That's a single chamber ..... not sure you can even use them today.
Some are three now ...huge
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
I think he was trying to fix what he had.
Regulations are all state or locally specific. Many thousands of them still in use today. 30 years ago, a 2 compartment tank was "new and different". We use to use 2 tanks in series for things like garbage disposals or macerator pumps. Filter always goes on the last outlet.
JRC3
Well-known member
Yep, snake oil. All a working septic needs to live and thrive is pee and poop. The bacteria will start and grow all by itself. For the most part if you don't put toxins in there the bacteria is happy and healthy as long as the solids are pumped when needed.
Lets look at the label.
Hmm, so the bacteria and enzymes die every month and need replacing? And There's not enough nutrients in regular waste? WTF is a water carrier; You mean a surfactant, hmm, like in soap? And it doesn't say it works, it says 'it gives you peace of mind.'
And not to mention this.
They prey on the uninformed.
Lets look at the label.
Hmm, so the bacteria and enzymes die every month and need replacing? And There's not enough nutrients in regular waste? WTF is a water carrier; You mean a surfactant, hmm, like in soap? And it doesn't say it works, it says 'it gives you peace of mind.'
And not to mention this.
They prey on the uninformed.
doctordirt
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 15, 2014
- Messages
- 492
Ok, worked in this field for over 40 years. installing and maintaining septics. If you wish to install ridex, so be it, it will not cause any harm. The bacteria in ridex is a supplement or replacement to bacteria that occurs naturally. It is important to have a 2 compartment tank, to have an effluent filter, to have your tank pumped, to have disposal field above high water table. Anaerobic bacteria (without oxygen) live in the tank. Final disposal is done in the drain field with aerobic bacteria (with oxygen). Newer technology uses oxygen injection in to the tank.
toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,586
He did say "new" ... so I figured multi
We have to have twins .... even if just replacing.
I just did an up-grade to my property and had to increase the size of the tank as well.
A little yeast flushed after vacuuming the tank/tanks out will help accelerate the growth of new bacteria, but as stated above, no need to add anything.
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
I used to have an installer who would "bless" each new install with a bushel of horse manure. His work was so good that I really didn't have the heart to tell him it was not needed.
One thing to keep in mind is that the outlet baffles really don't do anything (like keep floaters our of the discharge pipe) until the water level gets up to the bottom of the baffle.
One thing to keep in mind is that the outlet baffles really don't do anything (like keep floaters our of the discharge pipe) until the water level gets up to the bottom of the baffle.
SALIV8
Well-known member
At my trailer in mich my septic guy suggests to mix a teaspoon of baking yeast with warm water and flush it down the toilet every so often.
Makes sense to me.
Makes sense to me.
My septic tank guy said the same thing.
He also said never put the following into the septic system:
- "disposable" anything (mine was full of it; they were all black so he said it wasn't from us)
- grease or fats
- heavy chlorine
- harsh chemicals like drain cleaners
- don't use the garbage disposal (or use it very little)
He said ours probably hadn't been done since the house was built (1994); we were very close to having to replace our laterals for $$$$$$.
You don't need anything .....
A common gravity system is so simple .. if you have one do a google and watch a video -- check out how they work. Understand what type of tank and size you have.
Not pumping them is foolish ... especially if it's an older system. Many have smaller single chamber tanks and fewer laterals. In my area of PA if the old ones fail many people now have to put in sand mounds to meet code .... expensive and ugly.
It's the laterals -- or field that fails. Once the field fails there is really nothing to do -- most areas don't allow simple resurfacing as was once the norm.
As the tank fills with solids the capacity drops -- this can allow more solids to flow out. You don't want any flowing out. Pumping should always include checking the outlet baffle ..
Most system are killed ...
A common gravity system is so simple .. if you have one do a google and watch a video -- check out how they work. Understand what type of tank and size you have.
Not pumping them is foolish ... especially if it's an older system. Many have smaller single chamber tanks and fewer laterals. In my area of PA if the old ones fail many people now have to put in sand mounds to meet code .... expensive and ugly.
It's the laterals -- or field that fails. Once the field fails there is really nothing to do -- most areas don't allow simple resurfacing as was once the norm.
As the tank fills with solids the capacity drops -- this can allow more solids to flow out. You don't want any flowing out. Pumping should always include checking the outlet baffle ..
Most system are killed ...
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
A new system (1500 gal) in MA is about 30 grand. Keeping my 50 year old system alive for 230 a year seems prudent. If the diagram in my inspection report is accurate, I only have 3 laterals. It's a single chamber, 1000 gal concrete tank
We had a garbage disposal until a few weeks ago. The regional board of health now disallows them, so it had to come out to pass inspection for my upcoming sale
I get it .... Also .... where are these people who can get systems for 13k?
Just putting the tank in was 11k ... that was part of a 40k quote for other work on the property. So equipment was already there. The two chamber tanks were a requirement ... the single are about the same overall size (I asked) . They do cost a bit more -- think mostly because they require two risers and covers so you can get to both chambers
Some of them work for a very long time. If they never get overloaded.
Are the trees happy !!
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
The big money in replacing a septic system is the cost to bring in nice sand and gravelly loam to provide for good drainage under the leaching field. If you live where there is poor drainage and silts/clays native soils, it will require a fair amount of good fill to meet the current plumbing codes. Tanks are cheap. Pumps to pump leachate up a hill are more money.
The things that really kill a septic system is when 1) the leaching field gets "plugged up" with suspended solids in the wastewater and 2) when the anaerobic bacteria living in the leaching field get flooded out and and die. They can get flooded out from above when you use too much water and from below like flooding when groundwater takes away the air for them to breath O2.
Change of use can be a challenge. One person in a house uses a lot less water than a family with kids. When the family buys a house from a little old lady that used 20 gallons of water a day and did a load of laundry twice can be a lot different than having a bunch of teenagers where the daily use is 400-600 gallons of water every day.
If you have documentation to show that you have had your tank pumped on a regular basis over the past 20 year, it can be a selling point. Kind of like buying a car that has had it oil changed on some schedule as opposed to never.
Tree roots also love to plug up a leaching field also since they love to get some of that good nitrogen in the pipe. Not good to have them too close.
The things that really kill a septic system is when 1) the leaching field gets "plugged up" with suspended solids in the wastewater and 2) when the anaerobic bacteria living in the leaching field get flooded out and and die. They can get flooded out from above when you use too much water and from below like flooding when groundwater takes away the air for them to breath O2.
Change of use can be a challenge. One person in a house uses a lot less water than a family with kids. When the family buys a house from a little old lady that used 20 gallons of water a day and did a load of laundry twice can be a lot different than having a bunch of teenagers where the daily use is 400-600 gallons of water every day.
If you have documentation to show that you have had your tank pumped on a regular basis over the past 20 year, it can be a selling point. Kind of like buying a car that has had it oil changed on some schedule as opposed to never.
Tree roots also love to plug up a leaching field also since they love to get some of that good nitrogen in the pipe. Not good to have them too close.
Last edited:
I'm seeing 1000 gallon septic tanks for under 2K, paying 40K sounds like madness but that's just me.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No choice, at least here. Engineering, the labor, materials, permits.
My septic guy told me the engineering for my 4 bed house would be at least 4k on its own.
My septic guy told me the engineering for my 4 bed house would be at least 4k on its own.
JRC3
Well-known member
This house I'm in had one, I removed it and installed deep basket strainers instead. I know nothing but what I can't scrape off a plate or out of a pan to the trashcan is the only thing that goes down any disposal, be it septic or sanitary. Even being conscientious of this I still chose not to have a disposal on my 1960 septic system. I also only clean with vinegar and Dawn.
toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,586
My system was $3k 5 years ago. 1000 gallon tank and 300 ft of lateral lines.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Where?
So does it matter what time of year you have a septic tank pumped? Seems to me that summer heat would have a tendency to dry the field out while the tank is refilling. Seems like a good thing, but just a guess. I've been wrong before.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My guy told me it doesn't matter.
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
I would do it on your birthday (every year that is evenly divisible by 3) so that you know when it was last done.
jkeyser14
Well-known member
Average household use is 125 gallons per day, so after 10 days even a 1000 gallon tank will be filled.
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
When you design a septic system, usually is it based on the number of bedrooms in a residential setting.
The range is about 90-150 gallons per bedroom per day for the total use of the house. When it comes to the leaching area, bigger is generally better.
The range is about 90-150 gallons per bedroom per day for the total use of the house. When it comes to the leaching area, bigger is generally better.
Pntyrmvr
Well-known member
Our septic pumper avoids emptying the tank in the coldest winter months to avoid frost heave. He also leaves a bit behind to encourage the bacteria to flourish with the next few flushes.
I’m on the fence as to both ideas, but I haven’t put three kids through school driving a honey wagon so he’s probably right.
“Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money.”
I’m on the fence as to both ideas, but I haven’t put three kids through school driving a honey wagon so he’s probably right.
“Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money.”
JRC3
Well-known member
There's plenty bacteria left behind in a completely empty tank...He's just getting one more tank pump per truck load by leaving 20% behind in yours.
But I wouldn't argue over 20% of $315 it takes to pump my tank every 5 years.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
1500 gal is the minimum in my town. That will do up to a 4 bedroom. I believe they increase size from there