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New tape measure

no704

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My goto is a 12’ Stanley with fractions on one edge and 1/10s on the other side. Mostly metal work from prints.
 
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whateg01

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Really? You use a tape measure for things that require NIST degree of accuracy?

To me, tapes are for wood--mostly framing wood, and projects where 1/16" graduations are close enough.

I still recall fitting gable-end studs in an open ceiling frame, built-in-place. My boss was measuring and installing. He tossed one piece back to me and said "Take a little less than a 32th off". I'm using a Skilsaw on sawhorses. I looked back at him and tossed the piece back up and told him "My measuring tape is marked to 1/16ths and I can cut to 1/32ths--knock it into place--it's the last piece in the stack."

We actually got along just fine.
NIST traceable doesn't mean that it's good to a half thou. It just means that 1/16" really is 1/16".
 

Beerhippie

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I'm just waiting for the Tajima tape to get here....

It seems to be the cheapest they make--and some are very spendy--but I'm just dipping my toes in the world of Japanese tape measures.

I simply want a small tape I can carry clipped to my pocket without pulling my pants down (well, I wear bibs most of the time) or wearing my pocket away, with a blade that's flexible enough to pull a tape on a not-perfectly-flat surface and has the exact same markings on both edges--I'm kind of a visual type, so if the marks on each edge are different, it throws me off when measuring with one edge and marking with the other. The Tajima is also marked on both sides of the tape--I'll have to see what I think of that, as I've never had a tape that was.
 

Beerhippie

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NIST traceable doesn't mean that it's good to a half thou. It just means that 1/16" really is 1/16".
I have a few NIST traceable thermometers and pressure gauges around the shop. I use them to calibrate gauges and thermometers for the brewery.

But, after a little research, ASTM certified are just as accurate, and much cheaper. When using an MIG thermometer for a calibration standard, that's just fine, as neither the glass nor the mercury are gong to drift.
 

KnurledNut

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For years, I used to go through a tape measure every few months or less, simply a consumable. Didnt have time to waste babying a dainty tape measure. The FatMax was the only tape that would hold out even that long. It didnt take long for greenhorns to figure this out.
There is a reason that guys who use tapes hard unanimously go for them.

That being said, the original poster said he is doing "woodworking" which can cover a wide range of tasks but seems to imply limited woodshop projects. Simply a guess judging by he is asking about tape measures, whereas someone experienced would likely already know the options. If so, the majority of big box brands would work just fine. In line with the OP's request, I dont know of any Canadian made tapes and the USA assembled tapes have mostly been discussed. The rest of the world largely uses the metric scale, which severely limits fractional options.

I would suggest owning multiple tapes that are task-appropriate to cover a variety of duties.

And if Stanley is reading this, make a stainless steel FatMax already!
 

Beauregard

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When I was In residential construction, virtually every tradesman, from the concrete guy up to the roofer used the Stanley Power Lock, either in 16', 25', or 30'.
There is a reason for this.
1711853508350.jpeg

Now, a story about tapes in the trades. We were in Mexico, out in a small town on the Yucatan Peninsula. The local crew was installing a new clay sewer pipe down the center of the main street roadway. It was mostly a shovels, picks, and wheelbarrow operation. For measurements, they used a piece of mason twine. One would hold the dumb end and the other would pinch it between his fingers at the cut point. They would then both get out of the trench and stretch the string on the pipe to mark it for cutting. It's amazing to see how some of the rest of the world works.
 

Beerhippie

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When I was In residential construction, virtually every tradesman, from the concrete guy up to the roofer used the Stanley Power Lock, either in 16', 25', or 30'.
There is a reason for this.
1711853508350.jpeg

Now, a story about tapes in the trades. We were in Mexico, out in a small town on the Yucatan Peninsula. The local crew was installing a new clay sewer pipe down the center of the main street roadway. It was mostly a shovels, picks, and wheelbarrow operation. For measurements, they used a piece of mason twine. One would hold the dumb end and the other would pinch it between his fingers at the cut point. They would then both get out of the trench and stretch the string on the pipe to mark it for cutting. It's amazing to see how some of the rest of the world works.
Was that NIST traceable string?
 

MovingAlong

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Really? You use a tape measure for things that require NIST degree of accuracy?

To me, tapes are for wood--mostly framing wood, and projects where 1/16" graduations are close enough.

I still recall fitting gable-end studs in an open ceiling frame, built-in-place. My boss was measuring and installing. He tossed one piece back to me and said "Take a little less than a 32th off". I'm using a Skilsaw on sawhorses. I looked back at him and tossed the piece back up and told him "My measuring tape is marked to 1/16ths and I can cut to 1/32ths--knock it into place--it's the last piece in the stack."

We actually got along just fine.

No, of course not, I'm the guy behind the keyboard overthinking things. But I have pulled different brands of 25' tapes and found them to vary by a 1/8-1/4" at full length. An admittedly small percentage of error at 8' but still... Was just surprised that when discussing measuring tapes, accuracy isn't really even questioned. :dunno:

Wasn't sure if that speaks to the quality of the tapes or the tolerances of what tapes generally measure. I meant it as a honest point of interest to me - I don't work on large job sites and find it interesting that everything seems to work out just fine.

@Beauregard , my Made In USA Stanley Powerlock is my "reference" standard tape... When searching 20-30 years ago for a father-in-law gift, I wanted to find the very best tape measure I could. My searching always led back to the Stanley Powerlock. Came to realize it was popular for a reason and bought two of them. :thumbup:
 
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Beerhippie

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When I was In residential construction, virtually every tradesman, from the concrete guy up to the roofer used the Stanley Power Lock, either in 16', 25', or 30'.
There is a reason for this.
1711853508350.jpeg

Now, a story about tapes in the trades. We were in Mexico, out in a small town on the Yucatan Peninsula. The local crew was installing a new clay sewer pipe down the center of the main street roadway. It was mostly a shovels, picks, and wheelbarrow operation. For measurements, they used a piece of mason twine. One would hold the dumb end and the other would pinch it between his fingers at the cut point. They would then both get out of the trench and stretch the string on the pipe to mark it for cutting. It's amazing to see how some of the rest of the world works.
Running with this theme--in carpentry, if you want as good of accuracy as your tools can give you, you mark and transfer (like the guys with the string)--not measure.

A tool I learned to value for trim work was this:

53622379275_176b5d101b_b.jpg

For any inside measurement where you can't just slap your trim piece up and mark-in-place (the most accurate way), the folding rule with slider is the best.

For instance, I needed to add a T member to stiffen up a part of my bench the other day. I wanted a 2 X4 that fit exactly between the concrete floor and the top plate of my bench.

53621928631_147ea82fd7_b.jpg

Mark.

53622263219_7d1507c8fb_b.jpg

Transfer.

53621052592_90bbd1e2b0_b.jpg

Press-fit.

No need to read a tape, no chance of "inching" myself, pretty much no way to screw up. We used the folder with slider primarily for window and door casings, where the inside measurement for the vertical pieces is critical--there's no trim to cover trim mistakes.
 
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Rinspeed

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Tape measures are a very personal thing and once you get used to a certain style the others kind of ****. I have a couple of the older Stanley 12' that are plastic and I take care of them because I like them much better than the newer all metal ones. You couldn't give me a Stanley 25' one because I think they are bulky as hell and much prefer Milwaukee.
 

ArcReactorKC

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Running with this theme--in carpentry, if you want as good of accuracy as your tools can give you, you mark and transfer (like the guys with the string)--not measure.

A tool I learned to value for trim work was this:

53622379275_176b5d101b_b.jpg

For any inside measurement where you can't just slap your trim piece up and mark-in-place (the most accurate way), the folding rule with slider is the best.

For instance, I needed to add a T member to stiffen up a part of my bench the other day. I wanted a 2 X4 that fit exactly between the concrete floor and the top plate of my bench.

53621928631_147ea82fd7_b.jpg

Mark.

53622263219_7d1507c8fb_b.jpg

Transfer.

53621052592_90bbd1e2b0_b.jpg

Press-fit.
That seems nice, if you know what you're doing I think if I would get used to this type, I would consider the other tape measures hard to use
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
That seems nice, if you know what you're doing I think if I would get used to this type, I would consider the other tape measures hard to use
Like any other tool, the folder with slide has its place and time. I almost entirely use them for precise inside fitting--mostly stain-grade trim work. For paint grade, "A little caulk and a little paint makes a carpenter feel what he ain't."

For actually pulling measurements, the zig-zag nature of the folder tends to get in the way.
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
New Tajima 16' X 1" Hi Lock tape came in today. This was the cheapest Tajima tape Amazon had at $19.

First impression are:

Nicely marked! Crisp black on white markings, with red intermediate inch #s between Ft. marks (running inches are still black, as are graduations). Very easy to read. One edge of the tape is graduated to 1/32" up to 1 ft, which I have no use for, but beyond that, it's just the standard 1/16" graduations. It is not marked on both sides of the tape as the more expensive Tajima tapes are.

Stand-out is 7'10", which is plenty.

The lock works like most any old tape measure. Plastic case, but not cheap-feeling. Strap pocket clip, which is not my favorite but hard to get away from.

No COO markings. It's supposed to be made in Japan, but who knows?

This seems the closest I've used to the tape measures of thirty years ago, which is what I was looking for. It seems like a good, solid tape measure. We'll se as I use it over the next few years. I don't put a tape measure through the kind of beating I did when working construction, so it should last me for a while.

Internet has been down in my shop for a couple of hours. Here's the rest:

Stanley Fat Max 16' weighs 10 1/2 oz. The Tajima weighs 8.8.

53626151876_ff61425359_b.jpg

53625253267_f6c8022bee_b.jpg
 
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redwrench60

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East Tennessee
Lufkin Nite Eye G2 in 16' and 25' . Your eyes will thank you.
These seem like pretty good tapes. A few of the guys at work have them and except for one that suffered a freak occurrence broken blade at about the 18” mark, they are tough, easy to read, feature packed tapes.

I do notice that all the Lowe’s around here clearanced them, and haven’t ordered any more. Also the non magnetic versions seem to be drying up online. Wonder what the deal is.
 

alinc100

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May 26, 2013
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Dearborn,MI
These seem like pretty good tapes. A few of the guys at work have them and except for one that suffered a freak occurrence broken blade at about the 18” mark, they are tough, easy to read, feature packed tapes.

I do notice that all the Lowe’s around here clearanced them, and haven’t ordered any more. Also the non magnetic versions seem to be drying up online. Wonder what the deal is.
I haven't bought one in a year or so, they did improve the blade stiffness/reinforcement with the G2 models ,previous to that I snapped a couple blades right at the tip,letting them retract too fast. Lufkin replaced 1, Lowe's the other but suggested I help slow the blade retraction. If you're not careful they will pinch a finger.
 

redwrench60

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I haven't bought one in a year or so, they did improve the blade stiffness/reinforcement with the G2 models ,previous to that I snapped a couple blades right at the tip,letting them retract too fast. Lufkin replaced 1, Lowe's the other but suggested I help slow the blade retraction. If you're not careful they will pinch a finger.
Snapped blades perhaps not an isolated thing huh. I don’t know if the one that broke at work was a G2 or not. If they’ve corrected it, they have a pretty solid tape on their lineup. Aside from being a feature packed tape, that hi-viz green markings on a flat black tape really pops in low light.
 
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no704

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Had a friend on a commercial glazing crew. If you showed up with anything other than a 16’ Stanley that was grounds for termination!
 

sqznby

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I'm using a 16' Fat Max and a Starrett C12-12 12' is my favorite for day-to-day juggling. Have a few 25' and 30" as well for bigger jobs but basically stick with the short and stubby.
I just wish I could find more of the Starrett tapes, they don't seem to be available any more or you need to sign up for rigmarole and get on some mailing list **** to get any info or price on them.
 

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sqznby

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bpwoodworking

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I like the Tajima tapes best, I have them and BMI Germany. The BMI are made in Germany but a bit flimsy feeling.

I’ve dropped a tajima tape into every job box and use them daily around the shop and on job sites. They hold up well, they display only inches and they’re easy to read.
 

MovingAlong

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We've got FastCap tapes at work and I've grown to like them. We mostly have the metric/standard ones, but looks like they have several offerings.

I have the green Standard Reverse. I like the size, I like the tape itself, I like the clip. It's nice and has earned it's position next to my bench.

My Stanley Powerlock II is still my reference tape, but the FastCap is what gets the most use. Also have a Lufkin Control Series that will hold itself together at an honest 10' of stick out... but the curve on the tape makes it challenging to mark smaller pieces. Still nice to know it's in the drawer if needed.

And like others here, I've got a pretty good collection of Pittsburg tapes to loan out. :thumbup:
 

Hohn

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I'm going to stick my neck here, but I really dislike the FatMax tapes. I have them in 30' and 16'. Both are too heavy and too stiff. Yes, too stiff. If you're trying to hook the end on something that isn't perfectly flat, the end pops off. I really don't have much need for a tape with 11' of standout.

Unfortunately, I haven't found a tape in I really liked in years. I was a Lufkin user for a long time, but they aren't what they used to be.

What I hate more than anything in a tape is dual-metric-imperial. Whichever side you're trying to use is the wrong one.
I won't say I dislike the Fatmax tapes so much as I do think they are overrated and generally a bit too big and clunky. But that's probably just because it's a big 25 foot tape.

I had a bostitch tape that I bought for the big hook and it didn't last long.
My current favorite is a Masterforce from Menards that has inches and cm side by side. Super useful for what I do (i.e. not skilled trades where everything is in inches).
 

Tynee

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Like any other tool, the folder with slide has its place and time. I almost entirely use them for precise inside fitting--mostly stain-grade trim work. For paint grade, "A little caulk and a little paint makes a carpenter feel what he ain't."

For actually pulling measurements, the zig-zag nature of the folder tends to get in the way.
So, here's my question on pulling inside measurements with a folding rule, because I honestly want to learn:

You've got this gap here:
1712090884960.png
How do you make sure it's the same as the gap here?
1712091089760.png
 

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tarbellb

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Komelon 25' Mag tape all day everyday


Fatmax and other big bulky tapes are for job sites, anything else and they are overkill


And OP you basically described a Stanley Powerlock but then got cute and added the No Global Materials clause 😂

If you want a USA made w USA materials start a tape measure company and sell 56 units a year that market captures
 

GeoBruin

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For those FatMax fans, are you guys using the classic or the AutoLock?

I really wanted to like the AutoLock, and if it worked 100% as advertised, it might be the perfect locking mechanism, but over time I found it would slip a little when the AutoLock was engaged. It wasn't a big deal at first, but it began to get worse, especially if the tape was really extended.
 

redwrench60

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For those FatMax fans, are you guys using the classic or the AutoLock?

I really wanted to like the AutoLock, and if it worked 100% as advertised, it might be the perfect locking mechanism, but over time I found it would slip a little when the AutoLock was engaged. It wasn't a big deal at first, but it began to get worse, especially if the tape was really extended.
Classic all the way. AutoLock mechanisms just wear out, get in the way, and add unnecessary extra cost to a simple device.
 

neophyte

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I like Komelon. Stanley Powerlock is great, Fatmax won't stay in position and is too bulky, the old leverlock (like the one below)....you can pry that from my cold dead hands.

1712148037528.png
I found this leverlock tape design annoying, and I had the same exact model.
It was durable, I just never really liked using it.
 

Beerhippie

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Got it. Thanks. I've never seen a folding rule with that option. I guess mine are cheapies...
I have a couple of each. I'm a sucker for old folders.

53623018797_cc5505e2d3_b.jpg

But the ones with the slider are far more useful.

Some of the carpenters I've worked with would use site-made "slipsticks" for inside measurements. Two pieces of lath, one with two holes, the other with a long slot. A couple of small carriage bolts and wingnuts. Works just as well, but doesn't fold to 7" long, and obviously, different sizes are need for things like door and window trim. The folder w/slider will do anything down to just over 7".
 
OP
G

guitarbutt

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It's been hard to find what I want. Even Advent has class 1 tapes being made in China. It's hard finding a class 1 Fisco/ Hultafors or Tajima with imperial markings. I'm still looking with the added stipulations of made in Japan as a possibility and a class 1. Eventually I'll find it
 
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