I have a similar setup with the HF lower 26 and a Kennedy upper. Works well enough. I have the Kennedy bottom in the shed with my yard/excess tools.
The problem with those is the shallow drawers at the top. I would want deep drawers on the top at least if not throughout. Because stuff like sockets that are your most used tools would be further down in the box making it inconvenient to get to.
Socket storage is perfect for shallow drawers.The problem with those is the shallow drawers at the top. I would want deep drawers on the top at least if not throughout. Because stuff like sockets that are your most used tools would be further down in the box making it inconvenient to get to.
I prefer to have them standing up. The trays I have are tall so they need to have a taller drawer. If you had those rails and could lay them down it might be ok but a professional mechanic like me who needs to save as much time as possible it is more convenient to have them at the top and not have to fiddle with the rail trying to get them off. I usually will use the rails for things like torx and hex bits though so that might be ok in a drawer like that.Socket storage is perfect for shallow drawers.
My shop is optimized for fabrication and, in fact, there is no room to drive a vehicle into it so it can be worked on right alongside my roller cabinet. And I regularly have to transport my tools to the boat on which I'm working. Also I like to store my sockets laying down (they are on rails) where I can read the size inscription. Socket-related tools (ratchets, breaker bars, extensions, speed wrenches, etc) also desire the shallow drawers, as do combination wrenches. So all these favor the $300 cabinet, fortunately.I prefer to have them standing up. The trays I have are tall so they need to have a taller drawer. If you had those rails and could lay them down it might be ok but a professional mechanic like me who needs to save as much time as possible it is more convenient to have them at the top and not have to fiddle with the rail trying to get them off. I usually will use the rails for things like torx and hex bits though so that might be ok in a drawer like that.![]()
That’s fine if it works for you. They aren’t bad boxes for the money. Everyone has a different need. Like I work with many guys who like all deep drawers in their big boxes but I prefer and need a mix of both. Just preference and need.My shop is optimized for fabrication and, in fact, there is no room to drive a vehicle into it so it can be worked on right alongside my roller cabinet. And I regularly have to transport my tools to the boat on which I'm working. Also I like to store my sockets laying down (they are on rails) where I can read the size inscription. Socket-related tools (ratchets, breaker bars, extensions, speed wrenches, etc) also desire the shallow drawers, as do combination wrenches. So all these favor the $300 cabinet, fortunately.![]()
Yup. I put it there too.Hello fellow Reddit or lol
Some people need a roll cart style box. I delayed buying a roll cart for several months while I looked for a good deal. Used Snap Ons go for about a grand here. My Snap On guy offered me a new one for $1300 during covid, but I couldn't afford it then. A new box for the price of a used one is nice to me.For almost $800 with tax is a little more then I was expecting but for $500 the 44” roller would be a better buy in my opinion.. What you guys think

To me, it's all about the deep top till and no skinny drawers. The problem I have with the 26 inch wide US general rollaway is that you can't rearrange the drawers moving a deeper drawer to the top slot and there are too many skinny drawers.I'm struggling to make sense of the price of this new cart. There are many, possible better options as pointed out in above posts. Personally I'd rather get the 26" bottom and have 8 drawers and a work surface, for half the price.![]()
I'm hoping that I can possibly remove 1 or 2 of the 4 inch drawers and swap in 1 extra by building shallow drawers. For my use I need more square inches of drawer space. Cubic inches of volume is less important. Then I might swap the 7 inch bottom drawer for the two I remove.To me, it's all about the deep top till and no skinny drawers. The problem I have with the 26 inch wide US general rollaway is that you can't rearrange the drawers moving a deeper drawer to the top slot and there are too many skinny drawers.
The price on this cart isn't bad for what it is. One thing to note, is that the pry bar storage along both sides appears to be contained within the cart. I really like that.Look at other cart offerings and whatever you stick in those holes is exposed down the cart sides.
Rated at 1200# total, with 100# slide capacity.Does anyone know the weight rating for the drawers? The 26” toolbox has 8 drawers at total weight rating of 1K pounds.
What is the depth and height?

if what you mean by did their homework is copy snap-on yes they did that. I think the cart is prices a little high but definitely cheaper than most.I've yet to see one in person but, I think it's a lot nicer than my older CTB700 7 drawer Cornwell cart that ran about $1000 off of the truck (also Chinese made). I know many of you guys think it should sell for half of the $700 it lists for but, the cart has a lot of features not found on similar carts like no skinny drawers, full extension drawers, protected pry bar storage, power pass thru, four swivel casters, etc. Harbor Freight did their homework on this cart.![]()
Someone on FB was debating with me that it should be an Icon cart for the price. But the cheapest Icon box costs double what this does.Wow, really did not think it would be priced that high. For that price you could almost get a 26" top and bottom with a 5 drawer cart.
It sounds like this fits a need for some of you so apparently there is a niche for it. Agree it would have made more sense as part of the Icon line since it is now the third highest priced USG product, only the 56" and 72" cabinets are more expensive.