Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Nick's Two-Car Detached Vdub Garage

[nicholam77]

@jonshonda Thanks. The reason I was going to try the pop up was to close it off more from dirt / weeds growing in the garden end, but I think I might just excavate a small basin / rain garden type thing where it dumps out and fill it with rocks so the corrugated pipe is off the soil where it ends. And try the heated cable. And I think getting the upper roof re-routed to not use the underground downspout would help a lot like @loganb suggested.

My main concern is the Big Spring Melt. But if it's just half that lower roof portion, I normally roof rake that. My basement leak problem was from the upper roof which I can't clear the snow, it's too high. So it shouldn't be that much melt. And during most of the winter nothing is going to be melting since it's usually below freezing.

I'll see what I can get to before snowfall! Lot's of projects to fit in before winter.

 

[jonshonda]

@nicholam77 the other thing I did before I tried the heated cable was just have bypass downspouts ready for spring thaw. I switched from the frozen underground pipe to the seasonal above ground black corrugated pipe until the thaw was done. It was more work, but still did the trick.
The key to keeping basements dry is to get water as far away as possible. There is a lot of really good stuff you can do with french drains as well, but everything I've seen is complicated or impossible because of our freeze/thaw cycles.

 

[nicholam77]

@nicholam77 the other thing I did before I tried the heated cable was just have bypass downspouts ready for spring thaw. I switched from the frozen underground pipe to the seasonal above ground black corrugated pipe until the thaw was done. It was more work, but still did the trick.
The key to keeping basements dry is to get water as far away as possible. There is a lot of really good stuff you can do with french drains as well, but everything I've seen is complicated or impossible because of our freeze/thaw cycles.

I think this is what I'll do, in combo with possibly adding a dedicated downspout for the upper roof. To have the bypass available I'm struggling to find a connector that will allow the downspout to be connected to the corrugated in ground, that allows for a clean out, but an easy way to hook up a bypass. I'll keep digging.

 

[loganb]

find a connector that will allow the downspout to be connected to the corrugated in ground, that allows for a clean out, but an easy way to hook up a bypass. I'll keep digging.

Print one in Petg?

 

[nicholam77]

Fence Gate Handles

Another catch-up post.

If you'll recall when we had our fence and gate installed, I sort of "designed" the gates, and added my own handle to the full height one:



But for some reason I only made one, for the side you enter the patio (like if guests arrived). And for the smaller gate by the garage, I didn't bother.

This has bugged me for however many years we've had the fence (3 I think?), and I finally rectified it.

Started by taking some measurements of the existing handle.



Then cut some left over cedar I had on hand into the necessary pieces to make one more large handle, and two smaller ones for the little gate.



While doing this I had a minor kickback incident. Turns out my John Heisz push stick ran out of "heel" and I lost control enough for the piece to shoot back. I say minor because it was "medium speed" and likely wouldn't have seriously injured me, and fortunately I was standing to the side of the blade like normal instead of right behind it.



A warning none-the-less, and I do like this push stick so I'll have to make some more.

I hand sanded the pieces and broke the edges.



Then drilled holes for dowels on the drill press. This was before I had the fancy-schmancy 3d printed dust line.



Each handle is two pieces, so those got pinned and glued and clamped together.




I used some dowel locator points to mark locations on the gate itself, and then drilled with the help of my 3d printed depth stops.




Then glue and clamp to the gate itself.




And done!



I didn't take pics of the smaller gate, but I made those proportionally shorter in height. And put some oil on all.

This was an easy afternoon project but finally got to use a few woodworking tools again.

 

[nicholam77]

GTI Updates

Oof. Where did summer go?

Leaves are even starting to turn and it has gotten markedly colder the past few days.

If you've been reading along, you know I deliberated on replacing my stock shocks with coilovers or some matched aftermarket shocks on the GTI. Well I ordered those aftermarket shocks in May.

And they've been sitting in my basement for over 4 months.



Part of it is time to enjoy summer activities, part of it is other priorities (house, wife's car), part of it is life with little kids, and part of it is being busy with work. Even though summer is wrapping up, I don't see an end in sight. I don't even have the requisite nuts and bolts, but my next two weekends are booked, and I'm starting a huge project at work that's going to take me through October. And I have all the house stuff to worry about (tree, gutters, winterizing).

I guess what I'm getting at is I've reached out to a Euro shop for a quote.

Unlike some of the work on my wife's car, I actually would like to do this install myself for the experience and to say I did it. But I don't see it happening and cold weather is closing in faster than I'd like to believe. I'd rather have them on the car instead of sitting on my floor.

But if they come back with an exorbitant price I might be forced to reconsider. I'll update with what happens with that.

---

Also, I might grab a new cone filter for my intake. I bought it used on a forum, and the filter arrived dirty and dented. The big dent is on the other side not accessible to camera. At $60 a fresh replacement seems like a good idea.



But... I'm struggling with... Blue or Red!? Help me decide!

---

I also have a few cosmetic items I'm eyeing. The main one is a Maxton Design Racing Durability front splitter. I was hoping they'd have a Labor Day Sale, but no dice. Going to wait for a sale, though. I think I'd have to take it off seasonally for winter, so I have time. The thought was to complement the subtle hatch spoiler extension, and to give the appearance of more low in the front without going coils.

And then a few days ago I had a random thought about what carbon fiber mirror caps would look like, but I'm completely undecided on that.

---

Update on the IE tune... all good. Still on Stage 1 Low Torque 93 file. I'm used to it. It's nice, but it isn't mind-blowing. I really want to flash the full Stage 1 and see what that's like, but I'm scared that if I do I won't want to go back to the low torque file.

I keep saying "if my clutch slips"... then my hand will be forced. But so far no slips.

---

And lastly, no pics, but I ordered a paint repair kit and got my hatch chips painted and clear coated. I still have the issue of the hatch seam rubbing on the bumper, but hopefully this will hold off rust for now.

 

[Trapps]

Blue will show dirt accumulation better/easier.

Skip the mirror caps. They will look like caps. There are better places for us to spend your money.

That front splitter is tasty! Not quite subtle for car/VW peeps, but tasteful and invisible to non car peeps.

 

[bj383ss]

Nick your going to laugh at me I just replaced the K&N filter in my Camaro with a "Stock" paper element. And I know I haven't updated my thread in awhile but I recently did a filter/fluid change on the Camaro's transmission. Now it slips in 3rd gear really bad. So I will be taking it to the trans shop here soon to have the whole thing rebuilt. Possibly with some beefed up parts.

Bret

 

[nicholam77]

Blue will show dirt accumulation better/easier.

Skip the mirror caps. They will look like caps. There are better places for us to spend your money.

That front splitter is tasty! Not quite subtle for car/VW peeps, but tasteful and invisible to non car peeps.

I agree with all of that. On the splitter (hopefully it's obvious) but it would be the textured black one. No red line or gloss or anything. There are very few "subtle" splitters for the Mk7, but this one's pretty restrained I think.

Nick your going to laugh at me I just replaced the K&N filter in my Camaro with a "Stock" paper element. And I know I haven't updated my thread in awhile but I recently did a filter/fluid change on the Camaro's transmission. Now it slips in 3rd gear really bad. So I will be taking it to the trans shop here soon to have the whole thing rebuilt. Possibly with some beefed up parts.

Bret

The only reason I have the open intake is to hear my turbo. With the stock intake, it's basically non-existent.

Sorry to hear about the Camaro trans, but I know you'll get it sorted. Drop us an update!

---

So I got the quote back... holy bananas!!!



I asked them to price out doing the whole thing vs. just the fronts (the hard ones), in case I wanted to do the rears myself.

This is way more than I was even expecting. I got the springs originally installed for $550. Although that was 6 yrs ago. But hard to believe prices have more than doubled?!?

On the fronts, some of it is parts since I asked them to replace the strut top mounts + bushings with new. Which I believe is about $150 in parts. But still.

I may reach out to a few other places, but I have a feeling I'm going to have some thinking to do.

 

[bj383ss]

Geez that does sound crazy Nick. I payed $400 for Bilstein shocks and struts for the Camaro. Installed them myself. What a difference it made over the 120k mile originals.

I just emailed 2 shops for quotes. I am honestly expecting my transmission rebuild to be under $1,500. We shall see.

Bret

 

[nicholam77]

Geez that does sound crazy Nick. I payed $400 for Bilstein shocks and struts for the Camaro. Installed them myself. What a difference it made over the 120k mile originals.

I just emailed 2 shops for quotes. I am honestly expecting my transmission rebuild to be under $1,500. We shall see.

Bret

Oof... $1,500 is a lot but at least they'd be doing real work haha. I am honestly shocked I got hit with $1,300 for a suspension install, not including alignment. I'm going to send out some more feeler emails today, but I want it to be done at a place that specializes in VW / Euro, and specifically aftermarket and performance parts. Not just a maintenance shop or dealer. There are a few in the Minneapolis area. But I don't expect them to be drastically different in price.

I wanted Bilsteins but I read a few accounts of them not being a perfect match for the springs I have. And on my car for some reason Bilsteins would have been $800, even on sale.

If the other shops I have in mind are similarly high, I may just have to find the time to do it. If it's $1,300, I'd rather put that towards a clutch...

 

[Bob Heine]

I may just have to find the time to do it. If it's $1,300, I'd rather put that towards a clutch.

Nick, if you do end up doing it yourself, you can probably rent/borrow a spring compressor from your local auto supply store. I did the Eibach springs on my BMW with the cheapest ones I could find. They worked but the creaking and groaning noises mad me cringe the whole time.

Amazon sells better threaded rods that have safety pins to reduce the chance the arm will pop off the spring.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX5RSA4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I ended up buying a Vevor strut spring compressor that uses a hydraulic ram to compress the spring and you don't have to have your face and hands up close to the spring. It was a $99 tool that was worth every penny for the feeling of security and a bit of distance from the work.

The tool has gone up in price but it has a better set of spring retainers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGXJ9TSN/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm pretty sure you could sell the tool when you finish the job if storage space is a problem.

 

[nicholam77]

@Bob Heine thanks for the links!!

The Vevor tool looks sweet, although I'd probably just pick up the Amazon compressors with safety pins. I could be wrong but I *think* because my lowering springs are on the stock shocks/struts, I shouldn't have to compress them too much.

I emailed the other two euro shops I know of in my area, I'll see what they come back with and then make a decision shop vs. DIY.

 

[Aladinsane07]

Do NOT pay that much just to have shocks put on. If you really decide that you're not up for doing it yourself (and you very much could tackle it in a light weekend), message me and I can give you a list of shops that won't rob you like that. Heck, I'd even run over and lend a hand if you got stuck.

 

[nicholam77]

Do NOT pay that much just to have shocks put on. If you really decide that you're not up for doing it yourself (and you very much could tackle it in a light weekend), message me and I can give you a list of shops that won't rob you like that. Heck, I'd even run over and lend a hand if you got stuck.

Agreed, I’m definitely not going to pay that much. I sent you a PM.

Always good to see someone from MN checking in.

 

[nicholam77]

Not much traction this weekend as I'm home with the kids, but yesterday morning I went to an Oktoberfest car show with my dad and got the GTI cleaned up.



On a tool-related front I ordered an 80V leaf blower from Costco on sale. I don't have that many battery powered tools, but I've borrowed this model before and it was way better than my corded Toro, which I'll be putting on marketplace.



Some leaves are just starting to turn yellow here, so it should be delivered just in time for yard cleanup.

 

[loganb]

The cordless blowers work amazing for helping clean out the garage as well....mine might get used several times a week just to blow that settled down layer of dirt and dust from activities plus car parking off the ground!

 

[Klokwerk]

GTI is looking great! And totally agree, cordless leaf blowers work great for cleaning out the garage!

 

[jbrentd]

Nothing says Octoberfest, like a car show in September! J/K

Love the GTI...it looks great!

I was getting caught up on your thread and saw you installed a Deco mesh system. I did the same earlier this year and it has been awesome. Glad I already had the Cat6 ran over to the shop when I built it so I wouldn't have to add it and could use it so the access points could do wired backhauling.

 

[nicholam77]

The cordless blowers work amazing for helping clean out the garage as well....mine might get used several times a week just to blow that settled down layer of dirt and dust from activities plus car parking off the ground!

I should do that, but haven't in years. There is so much accumulated dust on the floor and everywhere it would make a huge mess blowing it out but I really should. Unfortunately with my alley setup there's not a great place to blow dirt and debris.

GTI is looking great! And totally agree, cordless leaf blowers work great for cleaning out the garage!

Thanks, and thanks for stopping in! Got the leaf blower delivered so I'll have to try it out soon.

Nothing says Octoberfest, like a car show in September! J/K

Love the GTI...it looks great!

Ha! Yeah I don't know why it was so early. Maybe nicer weather. And thank you.

The tune and the few cosmetic things I've done to the GTI this year have renewed my interest in it. I can't believe it's 7 yrs old at this point, but only has 40k on the clock. I'm probably going to keep it forever. I'm not a huge fan of the Mk8 exterior or interior redesign, and apparently the next GTI will be electric. So if I moved on I'd probably have to look elsewhere. Just my biased opinion of course, but I can see the Mk7 becoming a "classic" in the GTI line up in 10, 15, 20 yrs. I feel like the Mk1, Mk2, Mk4 (well, R32, so not really a GTI), and Mk7 will be the sought after combustion GTI's.

I was getting caught up on your thread and saw you installed a Deco mesh system. I did the same earlier this year and it has been awesome. Glad I already had the Cat6 ran over to the shop when I built it so I wouldn't have to add it and could use it so the access points could do wired backhauling.

Nice! Yeah, it's been working out great. Totally solved my connectivity issues outside on the patio and in the garage.

One interesting thing is sometimes my devices in our upstairs bedroom actually link to the outside Deco instead of the living room node. It hasn't really caused any major issues, but for some reason my brain doesn't like that. I know with some Deco systems you can tell a device to "prefer" a particular access point, but mine don't have that option for some reason, so the clients roam freely.

I haven't used a fully wireless mesh system, but I have a feeling a key to making it work awesome is taking advantage of wired backhaul. All my AP's are set up that way.

The only thing I wish Deco / TP-Link had was a better web UI that is fully-fledged. The app works fine, but a more advanced web UI admin page would be welcome. Can't complain for the money, though!

 

[jonshonda]

To avoid labor costs or the complication (aka don't kill me please mister compressed spring and I'll love you long time) I've bought loaded springs/struts in the past, but understand that finding one with the correct spring/shock combo for performance might be difficult.

But WI/MN appears to be pretty hard on stuff as my 3yo loaded KYB setup on my old GX started showing what I consider advanced aging and the rubber spring isolators were already cracking. I used KYB again on my 09 Honda Fit, and hoping for better results but time will tell.

 

[kaymccampbell]

To avoid labor costs or the complication (aka don't kill me please mister compressed spring and I'll love you long time) I've bought loaded springs/struts in the past, but understand that finding one with the correct spring/shock combo for performance might be difficult.

But WI/MN appears to be pretty hard on stuff as my 3yo loaded KYB setup on my old GX started showing what I consider advanced aging and the rubber spring isolators were already cracking. I used KYB again on my 09 Honda Fit, and hoping for better results but time will tell.

Somebody spend time in PI?

 

[nicholam77]

To avoid labor costs or the complication (aka don't kill me please mister compressed spring and I'll love you long time) I've bought loaded springs/struts in the past, but understand that finding one with the correct spring/shock combo for performance might be difficult.

But WI/MN appears to be pretty hard on stuff as my 3yo loaded KYB setup on my old GX started showing what I consider advanced aging and the rubber spring isolators were already cracking. I used KYB again on my 09 Honda Fit, and hoping for better results but time will tell.

That's one reason I was leaning towards coilovers initially

But like you said, winter is harsh here. I didn't want to spend the extra on coils and have them shot in 3 yrs again, and they were less protected against the road salts.

I haven't really come across any "loaded" struts for my car. I didn't even know that was a thing. There are a lot of "cup kits" available with matched springs and shocks, but I haven't really seen any preassembled with hardware.

FWIW, my lowering springs are already on the car. With the original shocks/struts. I need to swap the springs over to the new aftermarket ones. So I wouldn't have been able to buy loaded anyways.

Honestly, I'm not as worried about the spring compressor part. I think the biggest potential challenge will be getting the strut out of the knuckle without removing the axle.

On this note... looks like I am going to DIY this job after all since neither of the other shops I contacted got back to me. And I ordered the front strut mounts, strut mount bearings, strut mount bolts, strut pinch bolts and nuts from FCP Euro yesterday. Went with all VAG OEM parts — that alone was $165. Oh, I also got axle bolts to have on hand in case it comes to that.

I think I should be able to reuse the rest of the bolts.

I've been so busy at work, but my plan is to find some time to do the rears first and get my feet wet. For the fronts I still need to pick up some tools:

— spring compressor (or rent)
— triple squares I believe, have to check on that
— strut nut / pass-through socket and/or offset wrench
— strut knuckle spreader tool or chisel

Hopefully in the next couple of weekends. We'll see if my family / work schedule is kind to me!

 

[nicholam77]

GTI Rear Shocks - Part 1

Yes, you read that right. I've stopped moaning about it and sucked it up and got to work. I decided a Friday night after a particularly long work day that left me tired and cranky would be a good time to start a car project. And my wife and kids left for her parents cabin this morning... and I am supposed to join them tomorrow... in my car I am about to take apart.



My only impact is this Menard's Masterforce hex bit driver. It's more for driving decking screws and the like. Not very powerful so I use a breaker bar, and this to zip things out. Would be great to have a real 1/2" cordless impact.



This is actually the first time I've ever had the car on 4x jack stands. Normally for oil changes I back onto ramps, and just put the front on stands. Or just lift one end for wheel swaps, etc. It took a little figuring out but it went well.

Removed the knuckle and strut bolts with a breaker bar and ratchet. The deep socket slipped off at one point and my hand slammed into the floor jack I had below the control arm (not pictured), gave my thumb a nasty bruise. Swear words were flowing.



Typically the sway bar end link bolt would also come off, but since I am keeping the existing lowering springs, I found I was able to finagle the shock out without removing that or disturbing the spring.



To get to the upper mount I had to remove the fender liner, which was held in by about a billion Torx T25 screws. Classic VW move. Just when you think you've got them all, there's one more.



The shock mount bolts were a bit rusty and at an awkward angle, but no real trouble.


Inspecting the OEM shock, it's a bit beat up. Some paint flaking, some rust, the rubber bushes don't look great.



And now for the fun (read: not fun) part. I came to the realization that I did not have the tools to get the shock top nut off.




Now, I did notice the flat tab and nut on the new ones, but the new ones don't have the mount (gotta reuse that). I watched a lot of YouTube videos to prepare myself, but most people in the videos are installing coilovers, which don't use the stock mounts, or have a different allen key system. Or they are just installing lowering springs and keeping the stock shocks (which I did originally), and don't show the stock strut disassembly process. So I didn't know the nut was recessed like that. And the one video I did find that showed it (ShopDAP) use air impact, which is probably not "proper".

I'm sure the car guys know what I'm about to say, but for others new to this like myself reading along, the nut spins the whole shock assembly/rod unless you hold that tab from moving. The proper way to do this is with some specialty tools (a passthrough socket, hollow ratchet, special key that holes the tab inside the passthrough socket, and an additional wrench to hold that key. Looks something like this:



Of course I have none of that. And did not know it at the time.

So... went inside to do some research (it's around 9pm now, pouring rain and dark outside). I couldn't find the needed specialty sockets and wrenches in stock anywhere that I could immediately pick them up. Except this pass-through set at Harbor Freight. It's not quite meant for it, but I saw it mentioned on a VW forum so I'm going to bring the old shock assembly and see if I can test fit it. The tab would need to protrude out the top of the passthrough socket so I can grab it with some vice grips. Another possibility is a metric deep offset wrench set + vice grips. I'd need to buy that, too. Won't be able to get a torque wrench on it, but I don't know how to solve that.

I didn't put the car back together because it got too late. My dad is going to drive me to Harbor Freight first thing in the morning to see if either of those "hack" options will work. If not, I'll have to put it back together with no progress so I can hit the road to Wisconsin.

So... here she sits for tonight. If anyone has any other wise ideas that I could implement by early afternoon tomorrow I'm all ears



I have a feeling that when this is all said and done, including the fronts, I'm going to be wishing I had just paid the shop their exorbitant asking price

To be continued...

 

[kaymccampbell]

I've been blasting my strut n shock top bolts with an air rattle gun for decades. The only thing it ever did was make things easier.

 

[fourmotioneer]

Edit: pass through set looks like it will work too

Couple of options, considering that you’re tossing the old shocks:

1) impact it off. Yes, purchase a battery impact. I find that if you pull your impact so that it’s tilted (not parallel with axis of bolt) it will bang nylock nuts off better. You want to hear it banging, not spinning

2) vise grip on the shock shaft and impact/ratchet the nut off

3) If it’s a 22mm hex feature nut (looks like a 19mm…) you could use a 7/8 O2 sensor socket but meh

For installation you can either

1) use a piece of rubber to protect the shock shaft and then vise grip it to hold it while you tighten nut

2) impact the nut on. If you tilt your impact it won’t spin the shock much. You can hold shock shaft with rubber/cloth and vise grips if it makes you feel better

You can torque the nuts to spec using the vise grips to hold the shafts, or just use the impact torque as good enough. As someone who uses a torque wrench for everything but also can think, once that nut is seated and has been whacked by the impact a couple of times you are good to go. That’s not a shear joint and has a pretty easy job.

Speaking of shear…that impact will save you from pain. I wouldn’t use a breaker bar on those rusty bolts unless you like dealing with broken bolt nonsense. Yes, you should replace them, but if you don’t want to break bolts off into stuff you can give yourself an advantage by using an impact - it has balanced forces (as far as I’m aware the hammer has two sides?) so you won’t impart a shear load onto the bolt like you will with a breaker bar. I’m not saying to never use a breaker bar - just advising that an impact is more likely to be successful.

Good luck! I think you’ve earned a battery impact with all of the labor savings but what do I know? I’m just a guy on the internet spending YOUR money haha

 

[nicholam77]

I've been blasting my strut n shock top bolts with an air rattle gun for decades. The only thing it ever did was make things easier.

Ha! Good to know, Kay. I did notice most videos I watched that were in a professional shop setting did use air for that part. I'm sure they came to the same conclusion.

Couple of options, considering that you’re tossing the old shocks:

[...]

Thank you for all the suggestions and tips! That is seriously helpful.

One problem I'm running into is I'm not a fully-outfitted shop. I have some basic mechanics tools / hand tools, but honestly I've put most of my attention towards woodworking tools since becoming a homeowner, and I'm lacking even things like vice grips, crescent wrenches, etc. I've focused on having the tools for the job (well, except in this case!), but sometimes don't have the backup tools to get me out of sticky situations.

Similarly, while I've done a few car projects on our current cars and some of my previous cars, I don't have many specialty tools like O2 sensor sockets and the like.

The stock top nut is 16mm, and the aftermarket is 17mm.

I'm hopefully on my way to Harbor Freight soon to see if that pass-through socket set will work. Otherwise my dad is bringing some vice grip options and I'll try the method with holding the shaft.

Good luck! I think you’ve earned a battery impact with all of the labor savings but what do I know? I’m just a guy on the internet spending YOUR money haha

Copy that on using the breaker bar, and I definitely agree on the battery impact. I think I'd use it enough.

I don't think I'll run out and buy one this morning, though, because there's about a million options and I like to over-research my large purchases. I don't want to under-buy or over-buy, and I know there is a range of torque capability out there. I'm also not bought into any battery platform, so I'd need battery and charger, too, which on something like a Milwaukee for a big boy impact could easily be $300-$400.

If you have and recommends I'd be interested to know. And how much torque should I be looking for, and is it important to have a compact / stubby model?

Maybe I will try to get something before tackling the fronts.

 

[nicholam77]

I had success! Just got out of the post-mechanic-shower.

The pass-through sockets were too tall, but an offset wrench and an adjustable wrench and/or vice grip worked with a second set of hands from my dad.




I'll post up more thoughts on the job later, but for now I gotta hit the road. And hopefully my suspension doesn't blow up in the middle-of-nowhere-Wisonsin.

 

[fourmotioneer]

I don't think I'll run out and buy one this morning, though, because there's about a million options and I like to over-research my large purchases. I don't want to under-buy or over-buy, and I know there is a range of torque capability out there. I'm also not bought into any battery platform, so I'd need battery and charger, too, which on something like a Milwaukee for a big boy impact could easily be $300-$400.

If you have and recommends I'd be interested to know. And how much torque should I be looking for, and is it important to have a compact / stubby model?

Maybe I will try to get something before tackling the fronts.

Nice work getting on the road in time for your trip! In the video screen shot it almost looked like there is a size socket that will fit over that tab at the top of the shock shaft too?

On the fronts you’re not going to want to spend time messing around with ratchets while it’s in a spring compressor. I also (not actually sure if this is recommended) use an impact on the compressor itself because it can take forever.

I have a 2015 Milwaukee M18 1/2” drive impact. Doesn’t loosen lug nuts despite some high removal torque rating. Still extremely useful. Honestly I’d say anything you can stomach the price on that CAN do lug nuts will rock your world. Stubby is super nice but I don’t use one and seemingly take apart way too many cars and haven’t truly needed one yet.

Whatever you get, budget for a battery ratchet down the road as well. Used one last weekend. Will save you a lot of frustration working on the floor of your garage.

 

[Kasal]

I had success! Just got out of the post-mechanic-shower.

The pass-through sockets were too tall, but an offset wrench and an adjustable wrench and/or vice grip worked with a second set of hands from my dad.




I'll post up more thoughts on the job later, but for now I gotta hit the road. And hopefully my suspension doesn't blow up in the middle-of-nowhere-Wisonsin.

Even though I'm late here, that's the way it's usually used around here. Although now you have done the work, you may be interested to know that there are keys designed for this purpose.

 

[Kasal]

Soon I will find myself in the same situation, with the front shock absorbers on a 2011 Ford S max, the workshop price would be €500 with the KYB shock absorbers and the alignment, I was able to get the bilstein b4 for less than €150 and the alignment will be about €40, the rest of the money will be a good investment for future tools.

 

[Bob Heine]

If you have and recommends I'd be interested to know. And how much torque should I be looking for, and is it important to have a compact / stubby model?

Nick, I'm biased to the red side, with Milwaukee M12 Fuel 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" (hex) impacts. They are all compact and lightweight. I just went and verified my experience, removing a lug nut on my Cadillac. I personally installed them with a torque wrench to 140 ft. lbs. It took almost three seconds to break one free with the 1/2" impact. I bought it on Amazon in December '22 for $135 (without battery or charger). If you choose a Milwaukee M12 or M18 tool, you should get the charger that accepts both kinds of battery. Amazon has it on sale for $50 right now. For me, the weight of the tool is important so the 2 pound M12 wins over the 6 pound M18. If torque was more important the M12 at 250 ft. lbs. loses badly to the M18 at 1,000 ft. lbs. As usual, the kits are cheaper:

	M12 Fuel	M18 Fuel
Torque	250 ft. lbs.	1000 ft. lbs
Weight	2 lbs	6 lbs
Tool Only Price	$169.00​	$213.00​
Battery	$35.49​	$84.00​
Charger	$50.00	$50.00
Total	$254.49​	$347.00​
Kit (Tool Charger, Case)	$240.31​	$312.98​

 

[nicholam77]

Nice work getting on the road in time for your trip! In the video screen shot it almost looked like there is a size socket that will fit over that tab at the top of the shock shaft too?

Thanks! Yes, there is... see post #2,430 from @Kasal

Although now you have done the work, you may be interested to know that there are keys designed for this purpose.

Haha, yeah, I wish I had known ahead of time. I couldn't find one on the U.S. Amazon or locally that would get to me same-day or overnight, that wasn't a super expensive set, and I didn't even know what term to search. In the end it worked out.

On the fronts you’re not going to want to spend time messing around with ratchets while it’s in a spring compressor.

What about for torquing it down, though? Shouldn't I use a strut nut socket / allen key / and torque wrench? Or are you and Kay and everyone saying impact wrench is the way to go?

Thanks @fourmotioneer and @Bob Heine (nice comparison table, Bob!) on the impact wrench suggestions. Based on that, I have a few thoughts.

First, I think if I'm going to throw a couple hundred dollars at it I want the extra torque of an 18v tool. I have two Bosch 12v drivers, and I love them for their weight and competence. However, I think I would be disappointed if I ran into situations where a 12v impact felt weak or didn't cut it.

Secondly, my current battery tools are a Masterforce 20v drill and 1/4" impact driver (old), and a few Bosch 12v tools including the aforementioned drivers. But no 18v.

I kind of like the idea of sticking to a brand, and in my head I always thought I would upgrade my Masterforce drill/driver to Bosch 18v when they die. And keep my battery tools within the Bosch lineup.

Which leads me to this guy: Bosch ProFactor GDS18V-740N 18V 1/2" Impact Wrench — $197 Amazon Prime, $130 CPO reconditioned

It's high-torque (740 ft-lbs fastening and 1,180 ft-lbs removal). But heavy. Would pair with a 4ah battery + charger kit for $65, also Prime.

It seems to have good reviews, and that way I could keep all Bosch battery tools and also use the 18v battery for future tool-only buys.

The other one I was looking at is the Milwaukee 2962-20 Mid-Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench — $183 Amazon Prime

It sits between their M12 option and their High-Torque option, with 650 ft-lbs of removal torque. And it's compact, and the weight somewhere in-between the little guy and the big boy.

Would need to get the multi-charger, and probably a 5ah battery, which adds $90.

Downside is slightly less torque than the Bosch for about the same pricing, and I don't have any Milwaukee tools. Obviously Milwaukee tends to be on the expensive side, and I'm not sure how much I would really buy into their stuff, so this might be a one-off.

Then there is the battery ratchet thing @fourmotioneer brought up. I don't think Bosch has those, but of course Milwaukee has a ton.

So just comparing Amazon prices, it would be $262 for the Bosch and $272 for the Milwaukee. Very similar, and I feel like either would probably work for what I'd do with it. My lug bolts are only 88 ft-lbs, and I've been doing it by hand for years so if the Mid-Torque Milwaukee didn't quite do them it wouldn't be the end of the world. I'm trying to decide how much I care about sticking with one brand, the tool weight, the form factor, and if Milwaukee is a better/more trusted brand for this type of tool.

I think this is the price zone I'd want to be in, though, I'm not wanting to spend $400+ on a single tool that I likely won't use that often. Even if I "saved" money by DIY'ing, the goal is to actually save that money and not spend it all on tools.

---

As for the new shocks themselves, so far so good. No clunks or pops so I guess I got stuff tightened down enough.

At first I felt like I noticed a nice difference, but now I'm still feeling like they are pretty firm. That might just be the lowered ride with the springs, though. I think once I get the fronts done it will be easier for me to tell if it's made a good difference with the crashing over bumps.

Ride height settled to the exact same as what I had before. After install pic for fun (car is dirty!):

 

[kaymccampbell]

What about for torquing it down, though? Shouldn't I use a strut nut socket / allen key / and torque wrench? Or are you and Kay and everyone saying impact wrench is the way to go?

Yup. It should be tightened exactly per the manual. And, I still use the impact.

 

[fourmotioneer]

I meant that when using a spring compressor I don’t like tightening the compressor itself with a ratcheting wrench - I just zip each side with an impact progressively. Tighten the strut however you’d like.

Sounds like with your objectives (low cost, continuity with existing tools), Bosch might treat you well. A decent impact at a price you like is worth a lot more than nothing. I like your thinking here; the pros have a use for the best stuff, but anything decent is pretty helpful.

The battery ratchet is nice, but seems like an indulgence based on how much you seem to work on vehicles. I don’t think you’ll miss it.

 

[Klokwerk]

Turned out well. Ride height looks fine to me.

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Nick, god work on the struts! Even though it was a bit of an adventure, are you happy you ended up dong this job yourself? You saved a ton!! The stance looks god to me.

Even if I "saved" money by DIY'ing, the goal is to actually save that money and not spend it all on tools.

This is one of my toxic traits. If I end up DIYing something and I don't save any money, yet end up with some new tools, then I (falsely) call it a win hahahah.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Nick, god work on the struts! Even though it was a bit of an adventure, are you happy you ended up dong this job yourself? You saved a ton!! The stance looks god to me.



This is one of my toxic traits. If I end up DIYing something and I don't save any money, yet end up with some new tools, then I (falsely) call it a win hahahah.

Nothing toxic about it. You have saved money on the job itself, learned a new skill, and acquired a tool that will be a money saver going forward. I'd consider this a win.

 

[nicholam77]

Turned out well. Ride height looks fine to me.

Thanks @Klokwerk !

Nick, god work on the struts! Even though it was a bit of an adventure, are you happy you ended up dong this job yourself? You saved a ton!! The stance looks god to me.

Thank you. I would say I am happy I did it so far, but I've only completed the easy half. Maybe ask me in a couple weeks

I've had a lot going on the past few weeks. It did feel like an accomplishment but finding the time is not easy. I just can't bring myself to pay the prices the shops are asking, though, and I do want the experience.

The downside of DIY so far is over-analyzing and questioning if I did it right. They are firmer than I thought they would be. I *think* they "crash" less, but they do feel firmer over bumps, to the point where I'm second guessing if it's actually an improvement. At first I felt like it was a positive difference, but now after driving a bit on different roads I'm not so sure. It might just be the price of a lowered suspension, but I don't have a reference point of what it "should" feel like anymore. I don't hear any pops or clunks, so I hope everything is fine, but road imperfections are felt a lot more than I was expecting with new shocks. Once I get the fronts done I'll be able to make a full determination on if it was worth it or a huge waste of time.

This is one of my toxic traits. If I end up DIYing something and I don't save any money, yet end up with some new tools, then I (falsely) call it a win hahahah.

I agree with @kaymccampbell , I wouldn't call that toxic. There has to be some prize sometimes for putting in the work, even if it's a wash. Although I usually do the opposite... want to DIY to save the money, but then can't bring myself to actually buy a tool as a reward. If it's a smaller ticket item and necessary for the job, sure. I'm talking about a splurge as a reward. As such I've been wrestling with the impact wrench purchase. More on that below.

I meant that when using a spring compressor I don’t like tightening the compressor itself with a ratcheting wrench - I just zip each side with an impact progressively. Tighten the strut however you’d like.

Ah, gotcha. Makes sense.

Sounds like with your objectives (low cost, continuity with existing tools), Bosch might treat you well. A decent impact at a price you like is worth a lot more than nothing. I like your thinking here; the pros have a use for the best stuff, but anything decent is pretty helpful.

The battery ratchet is nice, but seems like an indulgence based on how much you seem to work on vehicles. I don’t think you’ll miss it.

So on paper, I think you're right. The Bosch has the better specs, and is slightly cheaper, and would play into my tool continuity OCD etc. But my heart just wanted the Milwaukee. I watched and read a bunch of reviews on both, and I think both would have been fine for me, but I ended up pulling the trigger on the Milwaukee tonight. It's more compact, lighter, I prefer the way it looks, and it's better designed. The lights are better, and it has some unique features like "auto-mode" where once a bolt is broken free it slows down, or once a bolt is tightened it relaxes so you don't over-tighten. I like those conveniences.

You are right, I don't work on vehicles that much, and aside from this strut job and maybe my brakes in the future, I don't see myself taking a bunch of high-torque bolts apart. Adding in a cheap metric deep impact socket set, and it was $330 out the door. I struggled with that price point for a tool I may only use a few times a year. But... if I count my wife's brake job, and this suspension work, I am justifying it. I don't *need* it for this, but I do change my wheels twice a year, so lug bolts are a thing, and I like the idea of being able to throw it in the trunk on a road trip in case of a flat.

Idk if I will get into the Milkwaukee 18v drill / drivers ever, but one 12v product I have my eye on is their installation driver. It's a bit duplicative with my Bosch 12v drills, but I've always liked the Festool CXS but not the price, and the Milwaukee is a nice copy cat. And there are many times with cabinets I could have used the offset and right angle modules. Would be another splurge purchase / nice to have down the road, but gotta put that 18v / 12v combo charger to use somehow, right?

Thanks to everyone who has chimed in with advice, support, and help. Right now I'm penciling in the weekend of the 21st/2nd to do the front struts.

 

[bj383ss]

Nick you are going to love the impact. I was in the same boat as you. I didn't think I could justify a battery impact. I have several air ones. But after getting mine I have found many uses for it. It definitely can speed things up versus taking bolts out with hand wrenches. It's a small difference but at the end of the day the less you have worked your arms and hands doing a job the less you hurt. The price you paid isn't bad. I bought a tool only because I was able to get a Ridgid that fits in my family of batteries. The only thing with mine is it is not as powerful as I thought it would be. But it is a mid torque. Now I need to buy the big boy.

As for the shocks I'm not sure what you were expecting but what you are experiencing sounds on par with performance shocks. When I put the Bilsteins on the Camaro I could run over a dime and feel it. My wife's car on the other hand you can go over speed bumps and not feel them.

Bret