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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Nick's Two-Car Detached Vdub Garage

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
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nicholam77

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I have a 3 year old and a 7 month old. I find that having a clean garage helps so much. I have to plan out my projects in order to get the most out of my now limited time. I seem to get a lot more done now that my garage more organized.

Nick, I really enjoyed your thread! Your projects show a lot of forethought and great follow through. Keep the updates coming.

Thanks, Unruh! I think you're completely right, especially with the kids. I have a long way to go in that department. I try to keep the garage "clean", at least enough to park cars in it, but I'm still struggling with inefficiencies like 1 extension cord for multiple power tools and plugging and unplugging all the time. I also really need to organize my tools and drawers better, too. Right now I put things back in the same place, but they aren't organized logically. More or less I just filled the drawers up as I acquired stuff. I never finished off my "dust collection system", but I'd like that to be slicker, too. You sure have an awesome space and one day I hope to achieve a similar level of organization.

In other news I was able to finish wiring the pendant lamp. If anyone is interested this is how it turned out...

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I think I might need some sort of coffee table to anchor it eventually, but for now I'm happy. It gives a cool parallax effect as you walk through the room, and nice soft light.

Not 100% committed to this, but I've been brainstorming how I can make some small "built-ins" in the living room that don't overpower the fireplace, but that would add some storage and make it a little more custom and cozier. Recently I spent some time modeling the main floor in sketchup so I can try out different designs, furniture, etc. Here's one idea I came up with:

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Would just be made of furniture grade plywood. Maple or birch sliding doors, and either walnut or cherry carcasses.

I know I'm getting ahead of myself here as I don't have time to do a build right now, but I like taking time to figure out what I want. I often find I think I like one idea and then end up changing it as I consider it more.

:beer:
 
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Jo3l

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Not 100% committed to this, but I've been brainstorming how I can make some small "built-ins" in the living room that don't overpower the fireplace, but that would add some storage and make it a little more custom and cozier. Recently I spent some time modeling the main floor in sketchup so I can try out different designs, furniture, etc. Here's one idea I came up with:

Nick, the light looks great! Did you integrate it into one of your your smart home systems? I'm researching wall switches right now and would be curious what you recommend.

I like your built in concepts. Have you considered making them free-standing instead of built-ins? The design kind of reminds me of a mid century console cabinet. I'm sure they'll be cool either way.
 
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nicholam77

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Nick, the light looks great! Did you integrate it into one of your your smart home systems? I'm researching wall switches right now and would be curious what you recommend.

I like your built in concepts. Have you considered making them free-standing instead of built-ins? The design kind of reminds me of a mid century console cabinet. I'm sure they'll be cool either way.

Thanks! Yes, I put a Philips Hue bulb in the lamp, and it can be controlled with a wall switch, or the Philips Hue mobile app, SmartThings mobile app, or the Apple Home app. I use SmartThings to do any automation.

For my situation it was almost necessary to use the smart bulb approach without running a new switch down the wall, because I grabbed power for the lamp up in the attic and there is no existing wall switch for it in the living room. I also wanted to tie it into my other three living room floor lamps, which also have Hue bulbs installed. This way I can have all 4 turn on simultaneously with the switch, and cycle through various scenes.

The switch I use in this type of situation (no existing wall switch) is Philips Hue's own Dimmer Switch:

https://www2.meethue.com/en-us/p/hue-dimmer-switch/046677473372

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If you use Hue Bulbs, it works incredibly well and since it's battery powered you can stick it anywhere. It can dim a group of lights, of course, and can also cycle through up to 5 scenes by repeatedly pressing the on button. You can't add it to SmartThings, but it is compatible with Homekit if you have an Apple TV or iPad on the home network.

Now if you already have a wired "dumb" switch that controls a set of Philips Hue bulbs, it will have to remain in the "on" position. This is a little clunky because people can inadvertently turn it off, or if you use a Hue Dimmer you end up with two switches right next to each other and one can't be touched.

So in that situation I'd recommend one of several options:

1. Remove the existing physical switch, wire the line and load together, and stick the Hue Dimmer faceplate over the switch box. I believe it's legal in most jurisdictions to have an overhead fixture wired permanently hot. So if you're comfortable, that's an option. It's cleaner, but you won't have a way to quick cut the power aside from the panel circuit breaker if your smart home system isn't working.

2. Use a smart switch instead of smart bulbs. There are a lot of Z-Wave and Zigbee switches out there at varying price points, but the ones I've used are the GE/Jasco Z-Wave Plus dimmers. These will control your lights even if your smart home system is down, and use a relay so you can turn on, off, and dim either from the switch or an app regardless of whether the controlled light(s) are on or off. The GE switches have official SmartThings support. You can get add on switches and create 3-way or 4-way lighting situations (although be aware the wiring is slightly different). The downside of these Z-Wave or Zigbee switches is they generally require a neutral wire. Not a problem for most newer homes, but with older homes you could be out of luck. I've also experienced mixed results dimming LED bulbs. They say they are compatible with LEDs but depending on the overall load and quality of light bulb your mileage may vary.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

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An alternative to Z-wave or Zigbee is Lutron's Caseta Wireless line of switches. These also operate over a wireless protocol (I think they call it Lutron RF, it's proprietary). Which means you need to add another hub, their Caseta smart hub. I haven't used them myself but they seem like a great option and the big upside is they don't require a neutral wire if that's an issue for you. I've also heard they do a great job dimming LEDs and CFLs. There is SmartThings support but only cloud-to-cloud execution.

https://www.casetawireless.com/Page...MI9Inesb_h3wIVgv5kCh17VASbEAAYASAAEgKQAPD_BwE

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Another thing to consider with smart bulbs vs. smart switches is how do you want to control them and what functionality do you want? Smart switches tend to be more economical if the switch is controlling a bunch of lights (like 8 or 10 recessed cans in a kitchen). And they tend to look cleaner and function more like a normal switch. Personally I think this is very important because the last way I prefer to control smart lights is by whipping out my phone. And it helps guests and others who aren't tech savvy operate the house. My wife would kill me if she had to use an app every time she wanted to turn the lights on :shocking:

However, smart bulbs can be better if you want to change colors, or set scenes where different bulbs on the same circuit and switch are set to different brightnesses and/or colors. For example in my basement TV entertainment area I have 8 ceiling lights on one switch. I opted to get 8 Hue bulbs and a Hue Dimmer instead of a single smart switch, because even though it was more money I can set different scenes where only some of the bulbs go off or dim to different values which I prefer for watching movies. It gives more flexibility. But in my kitchen where all the lights can really be at the same dim value I use the GE switches since it's cheaper and easier to operate.

Hope that makes sense but I am happy to elaborate further if you want...

Re: the built-ins I did consider making them free standing. I couldn't decide if it would look weird or not, but one issue is on the left side with the window there is not much height there to work with, and the depth of the fireplace is fairly shallow so if I added legs etc the interior volume might not be super usable on that side. I'll think about it more.

But yeah, I guess "mid-century console table" is kind of the look I was going for. My house is definitely not MCM in any way, but I have a fondness of MCM and modern furniture and architecture. I'm trying to incorporate some of that without trying to convert the place into something it's not. But I think a lot of the principles can be applied in many styles of home, like lack of ornamentation, simple trims, colorful art and furniture, use of natural materials like wood and stone. Redoing the floors necessitated it, but that's one reason I changed all the door casings and baseboards to a simple squared off profile instead of the ornamental craftsman stuff that was there before. We'll see where it goes. The more I update stuff to my tastes the more other areas reveal themselves needing attention...

:lol_hitti

Sorry for the long post but I kinda get into the smart home stuff :bounce:
 

Jo3l

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Thanks! Yes, I put a Philips Hue bulb....

Nick, thanks so much for your detailed response! I've been gradually adding smart home features to our house over the past few years, and really like finding out about new things and what work/ don't work in the real world.

We have 8 Hue bulbs currently, and I've developed a love/hate relationship with them. When they are up and running I love them. Nothing is more satisfying than noticing someone left the upstairs lights on and telling the Echo to turn them off. Also they are great because you can swap them out as you figure out where you really need smart bulbs.
However, several times over the past few years they have stopped working due to firmware or UI update. I've always been able to fix it, I just wish they wouldn't brick themselves without at least giving me some sort of notification. The other issue we have is what you mentioned with them already being on hardwired wall switches. My 2 year old daughter is currently at the stage where she makes sure each light switch is flipped at least 5 times a day. All that to say I'm researching smart switches now.
You are the 2nd person to recommend the Z wave switches, so I'm leaning it that direction. Thanks again!
 
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nicholam77

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Nick, thanks so much for your detailed response! I've been gradually adding smart home features to our house over the past few years, and really like finding out about new things and what work/ don't work in the real world.

We have 8 Hue bulbs currently, and I've developed a love/hate relationship with them. When they are up and running I love them. Nothing is more satisfying than noticing someone left the upstairs lights on and telling the Echo to turn them off. Also they are great because you can swap them out as you figure out where you really need smart bulbs.
However, several times over the past few years they have stopped working due to firmware or UI update. I've always been able to fix it, I just wish they wouldn't brick themselves without at least giving me some sort of notification. The other issue we have is what you mentioned with them already being on hardwired wall switches. My 2 year old daughter is currently at the stage where she makes sure each light switch is flipped at least 5 times a day. All that to say I'm researching smart switches now.
You are the 2nd person to recommend the Z wave switches, so I'm leaning it that direction. Thanks again!

No problem!

Huh, I've never had the Hue bulbs brick themselves, but I don't really use the Hue app or update it much, either.

If you like using the Hue bulbs, the Hue dimmers are a great way to go, especially if you are comfortable wiring the light to be constantly powered and covering the switch box with the Hue dimmer plate.

Keep in mind the Z-wave switches won't work well to control Hue bulbs because they do cut power to the fixture in the off "position", aka they actually control the load. They are better suited to smartly control "dumb" lights. They probably won't stop your daughter from flipping the switch :bounce: but at least they won't break any automation by hitting the off button.

Do you have any sort of smart hub, like Samsung SmartThings or similar?
 

Jo3l

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I don't have any smart hubs aside from the Hue one. I guess unless you count the "Harmony Hub" :)

Another thing I'm considering with my situation is almost every switch controls multiple lights, so there is a cost savings to smart switches vs bulbs.

No problem!

Huh, I've never had the Hue bulbs brick themselves, but I don't really use the Hue app or update it much, either.

If you like using the Hue bulbs, the Hue dimmers are a great way to go, especially if you are comfortable wiring the light to be constantly powered and covering the switch box with the Hue dimmer plate.

Keep in mind the Z-wave switches won't work well to control Hue bulbs because they do cut power to the fixture in the off "position", aka they actually control the load. They are better suited to smartly control "dumb" lights. They probably won't stop your daughter from flipping the switch :bounce: but at least they won't break any automation by hitting the off button.

Do you have any sort of smart hub, like Samsung SmartThings or similar?
 
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nicholam77

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I don't have any smart hubs aside from the Hue one. I guess unless you count the "Harmony Hub" :)

Another thing I'm considering with my situation is almost every switch controls multiple lights, so there is a cost savings to smart switches vs bulbs.

I'd count the Harmony Hub! Especially since it can interface with a lot of other hubs.

Switches can definitely be cost effective, but another thing to keep in mind is you'll need a hub to control them. The GE switches need a z-wave hub, but aren't tied to a certain manufacturer. SmartThings is a popular choice, and while it definitely has its flaws, it opens the floodgates to all sorts of devices and automations other than lighting. Lutron Caseta has it's own hub and protocol, but would be limited to their lighting and smart blinds only.

Another thing I think I forgot to mention before is if you're in the iOS ecosystem, you could use Homekit compatible smart switches. And then control with the Home app and use an Apple TV or iPad to set up automation rules. Homekit also supports the Hue products, so would be a nice place to bring the two together. Downside to this in my mind is Homekit doesn't play that nice with other systems (I don't think it makes it's devices available to Alexa for example), and there are significantly less Homekit devices available than Z-Wave or Zigbee, if you're looking to get into stuff besides lighting down the road.
 

Jo3l

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I'd count the Harmony Hub! Especially since it can interface with a lot of other hubs.

Switches can definitely be cost effective, but another thing to keep in mind is you'll need a hub to control them. The GE switches need a z-wave hub, but aren't tied to a certain manufacturer. SmartThings is a popular choice, and while it definitely has its flaws, it opens the floodgates to all sorts of devices and automations other than lighting. Lutron Caseta has it's own hub and protocol, but would be limited to their lighting and smart blinds only.

Another thing I think I forgot to mention before is if you're in the iOS ecosystem, you could use Homekit compatible smart switches. And then control with the Home app and use an Apple TV or iPad to set up automation rules. Homekit also supports the Hue products, so would be a nice place to bring the two together. Downside to this in my mind is Homekit doesn't play that nice with other systems (I don't think it makes it's devices available to Alexa for example), and there are significantly less Homekit devices available than Z-Wave or Zigbee, if you're looking to get into stuff besides lighting down the road.


Thanks for all your input Nick! I really appreciate you taking the time. I'm looking forward to tacking this in the near future. I'll be sure to document it on my thread :thumbup:
 
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nicholam77

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Polar vortex fun for me yesterday. Stayed home from work. Woke up to Nest saying the outside temp is -28 F, before wind chill. With wind chill was supposed to feel like -50 to -60.

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But at least it's partly sunny?

Go into the kitchen to make breakfast and find that no water is coming out of the kitchen sink. The supply lines to the sink, dishwasher, and by extension the fridge must have frozen overnight. :wtf:

The kitchen sink is on an exterior wall and the supply lines appeared to go straight down (finished basement underneath). I tried to warm the pipes inside the cabinet but I felt like they weren't THAT cold and assumed the ice blockage was below. With no access and only a rough idea of where the pipes may be I decided to just wait it out for a bit with the faucets open. Well pretty much the whole day goes by, and nothing.

All of our other sinks work so by around dinner time the wife starts filling up every container in the house with "emergency water" like the apocalypse is coming. :bounce: She was worried we'd have a broken pipe leaky catastrophe the next day, and it started making me worried, too.

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So I grabbed my favorite drywall saw and started cutting holes in the basement ceiling where I thought the pipes would be. Only took two tries. Even have knockdown texture on the basement ceiling there, so these will be EXTRA fun to patch.

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A few minutes of blowing hot air into the cavity with a hair dryer and voilà, the water is back.

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:lol_hitti

Hope everyone else in the midwest is staying warm!
 

greyghost18t

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Here in Milwaukee we are getting the same thing. The wife and I stayed home yesterday and we were lucky nothing ended up freezing. I did find an outlet in the kitchen with frost on it. Its on an exterior wall.. This means that i have to insulate the outlet..but also where the F is the air coming from that it is doing this. Also my water pump in my 2013 GTI decided to start leaking so we are down to 1 car right now until it comes back from the shop. $700 bill on that.. if it was warmer I would have just ordered the part and fixed it..but not when we need a 2nd car running and not spitting coolant everywhere. I hope you guys are staying warm! we are supposed to hit 49 on monday. Its still -17 right now here without windchill...
 
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nicholam77

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Here in Milwaukee we are getting the same thing. The wife and I stayed home yesterday and we were lucky nothing ended up freezing. I did find an outlet in the kitchen with frost on it. Its on an exterior wall.. This means that i have to insulate the outlet..but also where the F is the air coming from that it is doing this. Also my water pump in my 2013 GTI decided to start leaking so we are down to 1 car right now until it comes back from the shop. $700 bill on that.. if it was warmer I would have just ordered the part and fixed it..but not when we need a 2nd car running and not spitting coolant everywhere. I hope you guys are staying warm! we are supposed to hit 49 on monday. Its still -17 right now here without windchill...

I feel ya. Coincidentally I think I might have a leaky water pump and/or tstat housing on my GTI, too. If it is, it's a slow leak, but low coolant warning light came on a few weeks ago and I had to top off with distilled because I didn't have any coolant on hand. I also might have a weeping rear main seal. Car is only a little over 3 years old with 22k on the clock. :mad:

But it's too damn cold to really diagnose or tell for sure. It's supposed to warm up significantly this weekend here too so I'm hoping to get a better look and also weigh the option of reversing a bunch of dumb modifications before bringing it into the dealer (I'm still under powertrain warranty). What a pain.

$700 is a lot but I agree sometimes a quick fix is needed and it's just not worth the effort to DIY.
 

Bob275

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Leave your faucet trickling so it doesn't freeze up again. Glad you got it fixed with minimal damage. Could have been way worse.
 
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nicholam77

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After the pipe-freezing incident, my boss offered to lend my this FLIR One camera for iPhone:

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It shows heat maps. Kinda just for fun but was interesting to see visually the cold spots in areas of my house. Blue is cold, black is coldest:

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Of course the fireplace. Maybe I can caulk where the drywall meets the brick, though.

Front door glass and threshold:

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Same thing with back door:

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Under kitchen cabinets (can always feel this in winter):

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Bathroom window:

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And then I found this interesting, you can see that the studs are colder than the insulated cavities on this exterior bedroom wall (insulation doing it's job I guess!):

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So overall it seems like the weak points are all the windows and doors, as well as the fireplace.

In other news, I got my first Systainer! A T-LOC I. I noticed it was on sale on Amazon Prime for $63 which seemed like a pretty good deal so I jumped on it to see if I like it.

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While much more expensive than the Makita MakPac boxes, the T-LOC latch system is MUCH easier to use. The old-style latches are kinda finicky. Planning on using this one to store my Bosch PS-22 driver, batteries, charger, and bit set. Going to get a foam insert for it.

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I made a label in Photoshop and laminated with packing tape:

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The way it stacks with the toolbox I got for Xmas is pretty sweet.

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I really like the idea of storing tools in these, but I wish they weren't so damned expensive. The Makita boxes are 80% of the T-LOCs I feel, but I do have an OCD issue with storing non-Makita tools in a Makita branded box. It just feels wrong. :lol_hitti

We'll see. I think I'll just stick with the one for now and maybe outfit a few other tools as needed and/or makes sense.
 

sawduststeve

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Hi Nick,

The FLIR camera seems like fun , I might look at finding one , it would be interesting to see the differences before and after I've fitted new doors/windows.
Do you know the spec of your double glazed units ? My standard units are 'low E glass with Argon gas .
- 28 :shocking:We've seen some real horror stories about the weather in your neck of the woods on the BBC news, may you and your family keep warm and safe buddy.

Steve:beer:
 

wasfast

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San Diego CA
As you've found from the thermal imaging captures, wood is not a great insulator. That's one of the big plusses with SIPS where you eliminate all the studs for full insulation. Doesn't matter in the southern US where I live but anywhere north, it's a big deal.
 

Deezler

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Southeast MI
I feel ya. Coincidentally I think I might have a leaky water pump and/or tstat housing on my GTI, too. If it is, it's a slow leak, but low coolant warning light came on a few weeks ago and I had to top off with distilled because I didn't have any coolant on hand. I also might have a weeping rear main seal. Car is only a little over 3 years old with 22k on the clock. :mad:

But it's too damn cold to really diagnose or tell for sure. It's supposed to warm up significantly this weekend here too so I'm hoping to get a better look and also weigh the option of reversing a bunch of dumb modifications before bringing it into the dealer (I'm still under powertrain warranty). What a pain.

$700 is a lot but I agree sometimes a quick fix is needed and it's just not worth the effort to DIY.

Nice continued work on the house! If you ever have to re-side your house, consider adding an inch of rigid poly-iso on the exterior before putting on the new siding. Tape the seams and you have a full thermal break (wont see those studs anymore on FLIR). Had multiple friends and family with frozen lines here in MIchigan, also. We only bottomed at -16 or so, not too bad, but it was below zero for 3 days straight, which'll compromise most insulation envelopes in one way or another.

Just wanted to jump in and share my VW TSI water pump pain. Have the done the job on my wife's '10 passat twice (replacement aftermarket pump lasted all of 6 months before the plastic flange cracked same as OE...). On the current replacement I went OEM, doing fine thus far.
I bought my used '09 GTI with a "leaking pump" also, but it has yet to leak more than a few drops at a time, so drive until it blows, I guess.

Terrible design by VW to have such thin plastic flanges on a critical part. They crack easily which lets the complex o-ring expand out, and the seal is lost quickly, usually. I have had good luck with replacing the pump from above, and leaving the intake manifold on (just remove the throttle body). You kind of work blind, but can still get to everything easily enough. 4-5 hours for me, wasn't going to pay the dealer $1000. But I DID have to pay them for the rear main seal replacement, which sucked. Ours blew suddenly and shot all the oil out in one drive. If you suspect yours is leaking (drips out the tiny hole between block and trans), replace the PCV assembly ASAP! Another critical cheap plastic part by VW, a tiny diaphragm can fail and all of a sudden you are putting turbo boost pressure into the crankcase. Regarding the mods vs warranty, good luck. They technically have to prove that your mods led to the failure in order to deny coverage, but it's a somewhat defendable standpoint when you've tuned the car, increasing power and boost (for the rear main seal, anyway). The water pump is a KNOWN and super common failure though, maybe they will work with you. You could do the PCV yourself in 20-30 minutes though, which might buy you time on the rear main.
 
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nicholam77

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sawduststeve, thanks! We're out of the woods and it's warmed up again. Relatively speaking. The FLIR camera is a fun gadget. The one I used is one of their cheaper models I believe, and costs around $200 USD. So they aren't exactly cheap. But if you can get ahold of one it's pretty interesting! I do not know the specs of my windows...

wasfast, interesting, I was not aware of this. Can't say I've seen a house being built around here like that but sounds nice!

Deezler, I have vinyl siding, which is nice that it's "maintenance free", but I don't love it otherwise. Can't change the color. Looks... okay. I'll definitely look into better insulation if I ever change the siding.

Thanks for the info on the VW repairs. I like to do as much of my own work as I can on my car, but the water pump job sounds like more than I'd want to bite off and chew at the moment. If mine is in fact leaking, it's definitely leaking slow so I think I'll just take it into the dealer for pressure testing once it's a little warmer. I couldn't detect coolant anywhere so who knows what's up but this is how low it got before it triggered the warning:

View media item 90365
I topped it off and it's pretty much maintained over the past week.

Also, the RMS might have been a scare, although I know it's a common problem. Someone commented that I might have it based on the below photo and some clutch behavior I've been experiencing:

View media item 90366
Inspecting it this weekend though all that oily looking stuff was just Fluid Film corrosion inhibitor that I sprayed on the undercarriage before winter. I cleaned it up and the seal between the trans and crankcase seemed ok. I'll keep an eye on it next oil change though to make sure there is no seeping.

Do you know if the rear main seal failure always shows up on the outside? Or could it be leaking oil into the trans internally? Because the reason I suspected it is I have weird clutch behavior staring out in 1st where there's some judder and it feels like it wants to drop out even when given sufficient revs. Seems like no matter what I do it just won't connect smoothly. Someone suggested that engine oil could be getting in there on the disc and flywheel due to RMS leak. Not sure if that could be it or not, but I see no leakage on the outside. ALL other shifts are perfectly fine and I never have any clutch slip or anything. I'm a pretty conservative driver.

And I'm not tuned, but if I do have to bring it in for a RMS job I would definitely reverse my hardware mods and not risk the warranty even if it would be a pain.

I did do the tstat housing and seal on my mk4 2.slow @ ~50,000 miles when I had it. I don't know why VW can't make non-leaky things. Or at least that last a bit longer.
 

Deezler

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Thats pretty low in the coolant bottle. You can often get a leak, and it dries up before it gets a chance to drip and show much evidence. This is what my '09 GTI is doing right now. Evidence of this would be crusty pink residue around the leak, but you can't see jack sh!t around the water pump without removing everything, so yeah just re-filling the reservoir periodically is not really so bad.

The rear main seal can't leak into the trans, but it can get oil on the flywheel. But I'm pretty sure you will get a drip onto your garage floor if there is actually any RMS leak. Next time you jack your car up, find the little drain hole between the block and trans, this is where it will leak from, it is always open (you may have to brake-clean it off, and wait to check again later if things are already oily under there). The rear main seal is what holds oil in the crankcase but lets the crankshaft spin through it freely, to which you bolt up the flywheel.

Sounds kinda weird but I've seen plenty of suspected clutch issues turn out to be ignition-related instead. 22k is not very many miles, but you could try new spark plugs and ignition coils if you want to throw parts at it. Do you have VCDS (vag-com?) take some readings on different channel groups during that event and it might start to make sense (misfire/knock especially).

If you're not tuned, the dealer shouldn't fight you on basic mods like intake/exhaust. Really doesn't change much but the sound and add a few ponies, nothing that would cause you issues. Shoot, some VW dealers are also APR dealers and still cover warranty. Just depends on how much of an a-hole the service manager is.
 
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nicholam77

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Dec 18, 2016
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Minneapolis, MN
Thats pretty low in the coolant bottle. You can often get a leak, and it dries up before it gets a chance to drip and show much evidence...

Ok, yeah I imagine I have the coolant leak even though I can't see it so I'll bring it to the dealer for that eventually.

I did not see any oil where the block meets the trans, or on the garage floor, so hopefully I was wrong about the RMS. I'll keep an eye on it, but like you said the oddness with the clutch take up could be other things or just my driving style. But I've always hated it compared to other manual cars, even other VWs. I don't have VCDS but I have OBD11 which is a similar diagnostic and coding tool. I believe it can take live readings although I haven't used it for that before. Maybe when the weather warms up and if the problem persists I can look at different plugs. I know some people run the RS7 plugs or other various aftermarket options. Most of those people are tuned, though.

I figured leaving some mods on (like suspension) that's completely unrelated is not a big deal, but I could see them making a stretch, even if it's not true, that things like firmer motor mounts could put more stress on the drivetrain and the RMS or water pump is covered under drive train warranty blah blah blah. Better to play it safe I think.

Thanks again for the info and advice.

:beer:
 
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nicholam77

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Just trying to keep this thread alive with lame updates until Spring arrives :lol_hitti

We keep getting hit with freezing temps and snow storms, and the garage is a sloppy mess, so the only woodworking I've been able to do is in my dreams while I nap the baby :bounce:


Snow:

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Snow:

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More snow:

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A different kind of snow:

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Sure glad I didn't get a snowblower this year because I definitely love to shovel snow:

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Pretty impressed with Nest Doorbell's exposure at night with minimal lighting, no IR blasters needed (also featuring - snow):

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So what to do when stuck inside? I decided to try out the fireplace for the first time since being in the house. Don't know why I haven't done it sooner... it was quite pleasant.

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isuhunter

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Great thread! I'm just 3 hours south of you. We have had a rough winter. Your garage has me really thinking about what I could turn mine into. You do great work and document things well.

From the looks of it - your table saw has brought you so much value.
 
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nicholam77

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Great thread! I'm just 3 hours south of you. We have had a rough winter. Your garage has me really thinking about what I could turn mine into. You do great work and document things well.

From the looks of it - your table saw has brought you so much value.

Thanks for reading, and I appreciate the kind words :)

Yes, the table saw is probably my favorite tool. I've mostly just used it for "shop" projects but it's helped speed things along. I'm looking forward to hopefully building a piece of furniture or two over the warm season this year, so I'm sure it will come into play then.

Stay warm out there...

:beer:
 

sawduststeve

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Hi Nick, thats some lovely pics of the snow, rather you than me though :)
Has it warmed up any for you, we had quite a warm week and a properly warm weekend, 15deg ish. Spring will be here soon enough, we've got some Daffodils
already showing in the garden.
I do like an open fire/wood burner, it helps to dispose of the mistakes made in the woodshop, in my experience. :lol:

Keep warm
Steve:beer:
 
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nicholam77

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Hi Nick, thats some lovely pics of the snow, rather you than me though :)
Has it warmed up any for you, we had quite a warm week and a properly warm weekend, 15deg ish. Spring will be here soon enough, we've got some Daffodils
already showing in the garden.
I do like an open fire/wood burner, it helps to dispose of the mistakes made in the woodshop, in my experience. :lol:

Keep warm
Steve:beer:

Ha! Yes, the fresh snowfall is pretty to look at for a short while, until it gets dirty. Envious of you're weather. Should just be a month or so until we start seeing some warmer temps, but for now it's still quite cold with more snow on the way.

Funny you mention burning scraps/"mistakes" from the woodshop - a year ago I got a propane fire pit for the backyard. It's convenient and attractive, but I've been thinking about changing over to a conventional fire pit to be able to burn extra wood in the summer. I have a bad habit of storing scraps I'll likely never use, and I really don't have the room to do so!
 
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nicholam77

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Well at least the snow doesn't look to be hurting Home Depot's business :)

Haha, yeah, surprisingly it doesn't stop people from going about business as usual.

Yesterday we got another dumping, breaking the record for snowiest February ever in Minnesota, at 30.4" total accumulation so far. The previous record was set in 1962. More snow is on the way this weekend.

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I haven't broken down and bought a snowblower yet, since I don't have a large property, so I'm stuck shoveling everything by hand. I have some ~7 ft high banks going on. Kinda frustrating to have to spend an hour clearing snow just to be able to pull my car in the garage!

And the GTI has officially become a snow plow.

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:lol_hitti
 

Deezler

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Yesterday we got another dumping, breaking the record for snowiest February ever in Minnesota, at 30.4" total accumulation so far. The previous record was set in 1962. More snow is on the way this weekend.

Yeah you guys have gotten lucky to sit in the sweet spot of the storm tracks this month. if you like snow, that is.

And good news, sub-zero high temps are likely coming again in early March! doh.

https://twitter.com/VerstegenWX/sta...idwestweather.org/p/computer-snow-output.html
 
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nicholam77

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so much snow! my old mk6 was a tank with winter tires with ground clearance being the true limiter

Yeah, I've been pleased with how well it does in the snow for not being AWD. Haven't gotten stuck yet, even in some really big drifts and steep hills. Ground clearance is my biggest pet peeve, too. In my alley the cars make deep tire grooves and a snow mound in the middle. When it freezes, my bumper, subframe, and muffler interfere and it's like dragging the bottom of the car across a big rock. Sometimes I'm worried my catback is gonna get ripped off.

Time to move to Hawaii I guess...

Or Essex, the last two days have been the hottest for a winter month
EVER!!! 21c/70f. I’ve been out onsite in a t shirt. It’s all very wrong.

Keep warm and safe.

Steve:beer:

Wow, that is warm! Lucky!
 
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nicholam77

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In a rare moment, I had 2 hours in the garage today. Not much time and nothing specific I needed to accomplish... I've just been really wanting some "shop time" and had an opportunity. I decided to go for something quick and simple -- making some support arms for the router table build.

As luck would have it I had only 1 piece of plywood large enough. To get a straight edge I ran it through the table saw in my "straight edge" jig.

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It was something I put together really quickly this past summer. I'd like to make a better one sometime.

Then I did some layout. My in-laws got me this Woodpeckers TS-12 square for the holidays and I've been waiting to try it out.

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It works great for drawing perpendicular or parallel lines to an edge. Slightly tricky to use on narrow pieces like this but can see it being really useful on larger pieces of plywood.

Then I cut the pieces out with the table saw and jig saw:

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Some quick sanding and they are good to go.

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They slide into the slots in the bottom of the cabinet to support the fold down table.

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To screw in the other "side" of the slot this little Bosch pocket driver came in handy. I wasn't sure how much I needed a compact driver at first, but it's proved to be very useful so far due to its size and weight. I far prefer it to my full size drill.

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Hex bits are a snap to change:

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All done:

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When folded away the support arms store in the middle slot:

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I still have a fair amount of work to do to complete this project (build a custom fence, wire power tool switch, dust collection, make shelf dividers and storage for router accessories, and maybe some paint?), but it feels good to accomplish something! It feels like a long time since I've done any "woodworking".

:thumbup:
 
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nicholam77

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Nick,thats a great picture of a great wood shop, you can be very proud
of all your work, it looks superb.:thumbup:

I hope the little one is doing well, and that things have warmed.
Have a great week.

Steve:beer:

Wow, thank you for the kind words, Steve!

Yes, we are back to warm(er) weather, and the little one is doing great.

Speaking of warmer weather, here's another boring update. I stole 2 hours last weekend to swap back to my summer setup.

Pressure washed in the wheel wells to get rid of all the winter gunk.

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The FluidFilm rust inhibitor I use is very oily/waxy and ends up attracting lots of dirt and grime so the pressure washer really helps clean things up at the end of the season.

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It feels good to be back in 'summer mode'. The BBS are noticeably heavier but I far prefer the look. I've been having some woes with my car lately (clunks / squeaks that I can't identify but seem to be related to the clutch and/or motor mounts), which are sort of ruining the driving experience and the notion of a tightly-built, performance-oriented, German car. So it's nice to have a small win at least in the looks department.

Another random note, my brother got me this angle cube for my birthday so I threw it on my saws out of curiosity.

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Both blades were almost 1 degree out of perpendicular from the surfaces. I guess I will try to calibrate them better at some point.

What's more I discovered that the surface of my table saw is not even across itself, with height spikes near the miter channels of 0.7 degrees. Kind of a bummer but I guess it is just a portable jobsite saw, can't expect the world.

:beer:
 

TX4runner

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What is the cube measuring 90.8 degrees relative to what? Did you confirm the table was perfectly flat as you might be closer to 90 degrees if the table is slopped (could also be worse).

Congrats on getting the summer wheels back on.
 
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nicholam77

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What is the cube measuring 90.8 degrees relative to what? Did you confirm the table was perfectly flat as you might be closer to 90 degrees if the table is slopped (could also be worse).

Congrats on getting the summer wheels back on.

Relative to the table saw surface. I zeroed it out in this position, somewhat close to the blade, where a thinner piece of stock might get passed through:

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It doesn't really matter if the table saw itself is level in an absolute sense (like if you took a bubble level to it). The angle cube just measure's relative angles, so basically you can zero it out on any surface, and then check a different surface against that.

After zeroing it in one position, as I moved the cube around the table saw surface it read different values, ranging from 0.0 where it was zeroed to 0.7 as a high point / slope. So that tells me the table surface itself is not perfectly flat throughout.
 
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nicholam77

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Knocking a few small items off the "punch list". I actually have a to-do list on my phone called that, and it is very, very long. And it only ever seems to get longer.

Work has been insane lately, and between that and this little monster...

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... I've been trying to focus on small things here or there when I feel like it.

A couple of small bathroom tweaks. I put in a robe hook that's been sitting on a shelf in a closet for 8 months that my wife has been asking me to put up for far too long:

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It took all of 5 minutes, but aaaaaaaahh, the sense of accomplishment.

Next, I tried to clean up the edges of the tile surround. I'm not a fan of painter's tape when painting, but my wife is, and she ended up painting the bathroom and a bunch of other parts of the house during the main floor "remodel". Which was super helpful, but in this case the paint bled under the tape onto the grout in many areas, and it's bothered me ever since the bathroom was "finished". It just looked sloppy. So I carefully cut and scraped away the excess with a utility knife.

Before and after:

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I plan to touch up that edge freehand with some fresh paint.

Don't have a pic of this, but I also replaced the euro hinges on the medicine cabinet with Blum soft-close. Love me some soft-close.

Lastly, I re-installed my front door Z-Wave sensor. I had it in the old front door, and after we got the new one last summer I just never put it back in, probably due to all the other stuff going on. I use it to turn on the lights automatically when coming home, and for an alarm system.

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Didn't get them perfectly aligned but you can see one side of the sensor is recessed in the top of the door, and the other up into the frame. This makes for a very concealed solution... I like these much better than the stick on the surface type. But does require drilling into the door.

It's tied to SmartThings, and piped into HomeKit through homebridge. This way I can see it in either app.

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I tend to like SmartThings for automation, and the Home app for user control.

That's all for now...
 
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