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nine4's projects, restorations and blunders

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nine4gmc

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Thought about it but I only have a mig welder and the hole is tight(5/16"), I was scared I may weld to the cast. :dunno:

I also thought about rednecking it with a few car batteries, jumper cables and a nail to "stick weld" to the pin... :lol_hitti
 
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taumac

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Outlawmws

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Yep, I was thinking "Stud welder" also. how big is this roll pin?

On the Prop torch I think that's a no-go; you need to get it hot enough to de-temper the pin... the hand torch is a.) too big, and b.) To cold.
 
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nine4gmc

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Cool, I was out of gas anyway. The roll pin is 5/16" o.d. crammed in a 5/16" threaded bolt hole.
 
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nine4gmc

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Tried the nail method with the mig and it clipped the internal breaker, had to unplug it and straight mig it in. Not enough penetration so it broke out easily.
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Gonna try some cobalt bits in the dp next I guess.
 
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zkling

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Weld a piece of mild steel rod to it. Mig welding steel doesn't stick to cast very easily. Then grab the welded on mild steel piece with a slide hammer. You usually need to get it on the 1st pull/hit. Almost always works for me. Short of that a carbine burr and a steady hand will eat it out, but not fun.

Don't short out your mig machine like that. Bad bad idea, that is why they caution not to let the contact tip touch the work piece. A stick and tig machine work different to control the current when shorted.
 
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taumac

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Fyrme

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I've had to drill out many hardened set screws and roll pins, and the only drill that I have ever had success with are cobalt drills, lubricant and patients. You've got the patients part covered. I'd have thrown it in the scrap pile by now:willy_nil.

If there is room, you definitely need to drill that thing out to accept a 3/8" bolt. A 5/16" bit is what you need to tap a 3/8-16 bolt, or a 21/64" bit for a 3/8-24. That should get you on the outside of that pin.
 
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Jolomite

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You'll get it, Nine! we're rooting for ya.

This is a tricky extraction indeed. I think Outlaw and others hit on some important factors- you've got a hard steel roll pin in a threaded hole- the threads will give the pin 'grip' when you shove anything in to extract it (anything that grips the inside of the pin with wedge action).

Welding seems like a good bet.

If you decide to drill anymore, you could try a left hand twist bit in a hand held drill. The pin isn't threaded, but the hole is. If you put enough pressure through the bit onto the pin to spin it (which, it may not do because of it's tension fit?) the pin might back out enough that you could get it gripped in something. A hand held drill would allow the pin to back out- a Drill Press would hold it down in the hole. I have had success backing out broken hardened bolts with a left hand twist bit, but the dynamics are slightly different here.

Maybe the little glob of steel that was welded on with the nail would give a left hand twist bit some more bite?

That's my wordy two cents. Don't give up! But don't hesitate to take a break to think it over- that amount of time usually rewards me with some inspiration.
 
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Craptain

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Jolomite said:
If you decide to drill anymore, you could try a left hand twist bit in a hand held drill. The pin isn't threaded, but the hole is. If you put enough pressure through the bit onto the pin to spin it (which, it may not do because of it's tension fit?) the pin might back out enough that you could get it gripped in something. A hand held drill would allow the pin to back out- a Drill Press would hold it down in the hole. I have had success backing out broken hardened bolts with a left hand twist bit, but the dynamics are slightly different here.

Maybe the little glob of steel that was welded on with the nail would give a left hand twist bit some more bite?
Click to expand...

Or what about a stud (screw) extractor? They are used left handed anyway and might just get enough grip to unscrew it. :dunno:
 
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Outlawmws

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Nine, try the welded nail again, but pre heat the pin before you weld - maybe take a tiny scrap of copper or thin brass tubing to "line" the hole, so when you weld, the weld can't bite into the cast.
 
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taumac

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Outlawmws

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That's a possibility, but again pre-heat. both cast and hardened steel are more difficult to get weld to stick to well.
 
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nine4gmc

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I have a 4x6 copper sheet somewhere in this place and can't seem to put my finger on it... I tried a couple time welding, last time it bit the cast some, so I quit. meant to grab some multi size cobalt bits but didn't get around to it today, maybe this weekend.

Thanks guys, I have not given up.
 
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taumac

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sparky7

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search youtube for 'so you broke it off in your hole' by keith fenner

All kidding aside the guy in the video is a master machinist specializing in prop shafts
 
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MN4x4

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I am watching this with great interest. I don't currently have this problem, but with my luck someday I will.

I'm cheering ya on, buddy!
 
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nine4gmc

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Delta DP project is on hold(for good reason :ninja: ) but I do have two project updates with pics!

First up is the Atlas Drill Press refurb, finally finished. Rustoleum Charcoal Gray and Black Wrinkle Finish from auto parts store. All original metal, pristine tilt table, link belt, only thing I need is the tension release knob and I think I have one but may take a week to locate. I don't know if the pictures translate but this is a really fvcking nice drill press in person. However, it was nothing I did, I love Atlas styling so I went back as close to stock colors as possible, only difference is I used the wrinkle on the capacitor end caps instead of just gloss black. The ABEC3 & ABEC5 premium bearings are really smooth, worth the extra $$ and the link belt is great, I will be upgrading all my machines to an Acculink.
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And the book case I have been excited about. Globe Wernicke from auction got refurbed with Rosemary Hammertone Rustoleum and the old velvoleum top got replaced with padded moss color faux suede. I added a couple single sided seams for accent and wire polished the aluminum trim. I still need to clean up the tracks and glass doors and install them but here is the cabinet(minus glass). This will hold all my best books, I may add some LED under shelf lighting later.
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bonneyman

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Those linked belts are awesome!
I carry one just in case I have to replace an odd-sized belt out in the middle of no where. It's perfect!
 
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sasquatch12

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Great bunch of work nine4!!
I too like the old atlas styles, the wrinkle on the motor bells looks real cool.
Re: Link Belts,, i never put anything on a machine anymore except link belts, love them!!
Re: the bookcase,, is to hold old technical books?
 
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nine4gmc

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bonneyman said:
Those linked belts are awesome!
I carry one just in case I have to replace an odd-sized belt out in the middle of no where. It's perfect!
Click to expand...

This is my first time using one, just great!!!

Amitygravel said:
94
That bookcase is stunning.
What is Velvolium ? I assume its no longer made.
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it's a linoleum type of material they used for desk and furniture tops, probably hazardous to your health or something :lol:

-Brent- said:
Perfectly said!
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Thanks :beer:

WallynSC said:
Superlative on both projects!
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Super thanks :beer:

sasquatch12 said:
Great bunch of work nine4!!
I too like the old atlas styles, the wrinkle on the motor bells looks real cool.
Re: Link Belts,, i never put anything on a machine anymore except link belts, love them!!
Re: the bookcase,, is to hold old technical books?
Click to expand...

I too love the wrinkle, much classier than today's drill presses. The book case was an old school surplus book case, it will be used for my engineering books(that I find at yard sales, don't think I'm smart I just like the pictures:lol_hitti ). :thumbup:
 
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Fyrme

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Man, nine. Those are some great finished projects. I LOVE the cabinet. I hope you are planning on putting that thing indoors. That suede will love to collect all the dust it can get it's hands on out in a shop LOL. The colors are perfect. Did you do your own stitching?
 
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drivesitfar

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Nine4: awesome restore on both the DP and the cabinet. just curious how you were able to not only get the material on top of the cabinet to look original, but how you got the seams to match which appears perfectly symmetrical. how in the heck did you do that?

also are you planning on putting the plastic or glass doors back on because i'm sure with all those tools inside your shop those picture books will not stay pristine long?

keep up the great work
 
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nine4gmc

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Fyrme said:
Man, nine. Those are some great finished projects. I LOVE the cabinet. I hope you are planning on putting that thing indoors. That suede will love to collect all the dust it can get it's hands on out in a shop LOL. The colors are perfect. Did you do your own stitching?
Click to expand...

Thanks Fyrme, the cabinet will go in the new house, more info on that later and I did do my own stitching.

drivesitfar said:
Nine4: awesome restore on both the DP and the cabinet. just curious how you were able to not only get the material on top of the cabinet to look original, but how you got the seams to match which appears perfectly symmetrical. how in the heck did you do that?

also are you planning on putting the plastic or glass doors back on because i'm sure with all those tools inside your shop those picture books will not stay pristine long?

keep up the great work
Click to expand...

Thanks Drives. First I stripped off the velvoleum top then covered the metal with 1/4" sew foam and trimmed it around the edge. Next I took a yard of fake suede from my upholstery supplier and cut a strip the width of the top with enough to wrap the edges, in this case it was about 18x52 piece of material. I wanted accent seams for looks, since plain wrap would have been too simple looking imo, plus being an upholsterer, I tend to look for seams and extra steps on upholstered items so I could not just leave it plain. I took the piece of material that I had just cut to width and cut it into 3 sections, one 24" wide and split the rest to put on each side. Finally I sewed the two straight seams, centered the suede on the top and glued it down. The edges wrap under the metal top and are covered by the aluminum trim and the top attaches to the book case from underneath by screws. BTW, I sewed that with a cheap *** home sewing machine, my upholstery machine kept eating the thin fabric. If you're not sewing the padding in, it can be done on a home machine, if you sew in the foam, you'll need a commercial machine.
 
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nine4gmc

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Thanks Outlaw, and yes Drives, the original glass doors will go back on once I clean them up and polish out the aluminum tracks. :beer:
 
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hippie2cams

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This is an outright fantastic thread, showing expert craftsmanship, I love it. Good Luck with the roll pin drilling, you'll figure it out, take a break and it will come to you
 
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nine4gmc

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Thanks Bonneyman, looks like quality belts.

Here is a stool I picked up a while back that my neighbor has been eying. He finally pulled the trigger on it and wanted some cheap covers sewn up(the old vinyl was toast) so I threw some platinum gray together and strapped it on. I tried talking him into letting me clean up the chrome, paint and repad it etc but he was set on K.I.S.S. covers....

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BBChevro

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Great thread nine4, I like the red & black theme on the drawers & that bookcase is per-fect! :thumbup:

It makes me want to go out to the garage & paint all my power tools. :lol:

(Subscibed)






Mark
 
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