No User Serviceable Parts Inside

[Beerhippie]

Seems you don't see that warning as much these days. I guess someone has figured out that no "User" is going to try to fix anything, anymore, anyway.

Except me, and, I'm sure, some of you all.

I bought this Wagner Furno 500 heat gun a little over a year ago.



As the old, black one I'd been using for twenty-odd years decided to turn into a Roman candle.

I went to use it today and the only button that worked was the on/off. No heat control (it starts on 2 of 5 bars) and no fan control (two-speed). The buttons felt like physical buttons, a haptic click, but weren't moving anymore.

I figured that I could fix that. Disassembly was pretty straightforward. The black plastic cover on the front pried off easily, revealing two screws. Two more in the handle and it still won't come apart, because, of course, there's always the one hidden under the label.





The surface mount micro-switches on the PC board worked just fine. The red plastic "buttons" were jammed in the black escutcheon, which was warped--a heat gun that isn't heat-resistant. Good planning.

Anyway, I got out some files and opened up the clearances by filing the buttons and the escutcheon.



It was easier to hold the file on the desk and scrub the buttons against it.

Back together and no extra parts! This is the display when turned on:



I can now use the buttons to access the heat and fan controls!



The escutcheon is still some warped and I have to smack it with my hand occasionally, but fifteen minutes to save a $35 (locally) tool that I need today... well worth it! Now to figure out how to replace the utterly worthless, stiff-as-rebar cord it came with....

Let's see some things you all weren't supposed to fix but did!

 

[ScepterToad]

Nice Fix!

Only thing that comes to mind for me is the fuel pump on my 2003 Larson runabout. 4.3L Volvo Penta. I was in Michigan on vacation years ago and it kept backfiring out of the throttle body. Not getting enough fuel. So, I talked to a couple of guys at the local marinas and they said yep, the fuel pump is clogged and you can't fix it. Non-serviceable part. It's a lift pump and injection pump in one. Has about a beer can size reservoir that the lift pump fills and then the injection pump uses that the pressurize the injectors.

Volvo had an issue with those fuel pumps for a period of time. They painted the inside (I assume it's paint) and the paint will fleck off and get into the screens of the two pumps, clogging them and starving the system of fuel.

Long story short, I managed to tear it apart, cleaned it up, put it back together, and she runs great. I have to do this about every other year now and have contemplated taking all the paint out of the inside. Up to now, it's just easier to clean it out every so often.

Can't seem to find the pictures on my phone, but I have to do it again this spring so I'll post up then.

 

[joel63]

Seems you don't see that warning as much these days. I guess someone has figured out that no "User" is going to try to fix anything, anyway.

Except me, and, I'm sure, some of you all.

I bought this Wagner Furno 500 heat gun a little over a year ago.



I went to use it today and the only button that worked was the on/off. No heat control (it starts on 2 of 5 bars) and no fan control (two-speed). The buttons felt like physical buttons, a haptic click, but weren't moving anymore.

I figured that I could fix that. Disassembly was pretty straightforward. The black plastic cover on the front pried off easily, revealing two screws. Two more in the handle and it still won't come apart, because, of course, there's always the one hidden under the label.





The surface mount micro-switches on the PC board worked just fine. The red plastic "buttons" were jammed in the black escutcheon, which was warped--a heat gun that isn't heat-resistant. Good planning.

Anyway, I got out some files and opened up the clearances by filing the buttons and the escutcheon.



It was easier to hold the file on the desk and scrub the buttons against it.

Back together and no extra parts! This is the display when turned on:



I can now use the buttons to access the heat and fan controls!



The escutcheon is still some warped and I have to smack it with my hand occasionally, but fifteen minutes to save a $35 (locally) tool that I need today... well worth it! Now to figure out how to replace the utterly worthless, stiff-as-rebar cord it came with....

Let's see some things you all weren't supposed to fix but did!

Good job getting to work again.
Where did you get it?

 

[WildBill]

I take new stuff apart that's not even broken to see if it needs proactively fixed up. I don't trust anything anymore. I've found so many loose wires, half tightened bolts, misaligned pieces etc. that I take pretty much anything possible apart before first use.

 

[Beerhippie]

Good job getting to work again.
Where did you get it?

Local True Value.

 

[The Cobbler]

nice fix. a lot of stuff can still be fixed, if you have the knowledge, inclination and desire .
we are a dying breed tho/

 

[bonneyman]

"No user serviceable parts inside"

Are you talking about new cars?

 

[tak1313]

I'm not saying there are NOT times when something says it's "non-serviceable," and they are truly non-serviceable, but TO ME, a lot of times it's just code for "we don't stock the parts individually because we don't make enough money from parts, even though you can find/fix it yourself, so if this breaks, you have to buy a whole new one from us."

 

[dnschmidt]

Congratulations. Knowing myself I'd have thrown it in the garbage and bought a new Steinel just to spite it. But that's just the way I roll.

 

[Steve W.]

I take new stuff apart that's not even broken to see if it needs proactively fixed up. I don't trust anything anymore. I've found so many loose wires, half tightened bolts, misaligned pieces etc. that I take pretty much anything possible apart before first use.

My son just bought a new UPS. Plugged it in, all the lights came on, but no output. Took it apart, the neutral wire was not even connected to the power board. Broke out the soldering iron, put the wire in its place, the UPS now works.

.

 

[neophyte]

Seems you don't see that warning as much these days. I guess someone has figured out that no "User" is going to try to fix anything, anyway.

Except me, and, I'm sure, some of you all.

I bought this Wagner Furno 500 heat gun a little over a year ago.



I went to use it today and the only button that worked was the on/off. No heat control (it starts on 2 of 5 bars) and no fan control (two-speed). The buttons felt like physical buttons, a haptic click, but weren't moving anymore.

I figured that I could fix that. Disassembly was pretty straightforward. The black plastic cover on the front pried off easily, revealing two screws. Two more in the handle and it still won't come apart, because, of course, there's always the one hidden under the label.





The surface mount micro-switches on the PC board worked just fine. The red plastic "buttons" were jammed in the black escutcheon, which was warped--a heat gun that isn't heat-resistant. Good planning.

Anyway, I got out some files and opened up the clearances by filing the buttons and the escutcheon.



It was easier to hold the file on the desk and scrub the buttons against it.

Back together and no extra parts! This is the display when turned on:



I can now use the buttons to access the heat and fan controls!



The escutcheon is still some warped and I have to smack it with my hand occasionally, but fifteen minutes to save a $35 (locally) tool that I need today... well worth it! Now to figure out how to replace the utterly worthless, stiff-as-rebar cord it came with....

Let's see some things you all weren't supposed to fix but did!

Almost everything comes with “stiff as rebar” cords nowadays.
I think Fein is an exception, but you pay for it. (Fein uses cords made by Patelec).
Alternatively, you would need to go to an electric supplier or home center that stocked power cord, and check if any of the cord has the flexibility you like,
then find an industrial quality replacement plug,
Then make sure the voltage and heat specs and wire gauge is sufficient,
Then replace the cord.
It would likely cost as much as the heat gun originally did, although even Steinel made heat guns can come with cords that are way too short.

 

[tak1313]

Congratulations. Knowing myself I'd have thrown it in the garbage and bought a new Steinel just to spite it. But that's just the way I roll.

I would have bought the new one, tell my wife I had to because the old one broke, then proceed to fix the old one.

I just did that with our snowblower. The old one (Troy Bilt) was acting weird - I had to run it for a few minutes before it could move when engaged. From initial diagnosis, I changed to drive belt - I could see that when it was really cold, the drive belt would slip until it warmed up. After changing the belt, it would still do it. It was the middle of Winter, and I expressed to my wife that I suspected what was really going on, but couldn't tell until I actually tried the other fix (tension spring on the tensioner wheel).

She said "get a new one." So I did - a Toro 1232 OHXE. It's $2400 new, but me being a cheap@ss, found a barely used one for $1100, even though I had the go-ahead to buy a brand new one.

Changed the tension spring, and the Troy now works great - and the Toro does even better.

 

[Sumboodie]

I take new stuff apart that's not even broken to see if it needs proactively fixed up. I don't trust anything anymore. I've found so many loose wires, half tightened bolts, misaligned pieces etc. that I take pretty much anything possible apart before first use.

Can see it now, 2025 F550 completely stripped in the driveway just to check on things

 

[Beerhippie]

Almost everything comes with “stiff as rebar” cords nowadays.
I think Fein is an exception, but you pay for it. (Fein uses cords made by Patelec).
Alternatively, you would need to go to an electric supplier or home center that stocked power cord, and check if any of the cord has the flexibility you like,
then find an industrial quality replacement plug,
Then make sure the voltage and heat specs and wire gauge is sufficient,
Then replace the cord.
It would likely cost as much as the heat gun originally did, although even Steinel made heat guns can come with cords that are way too short.

I usually use retired extension cords--especially older ones, as they're still made of flexible synthetic rubber. Since all I use are 12 AWG, I don't have to worry much about current capacity.

If you have OSHA oversight, they really don't like an extension cord with cut or abraded sheath (they really don't like extension cords), so our get retired if they have a single nick that exposes the insulated wires inside.

 

[Sumboodie]

I usually use retired extension cords--especially older ones, as they're still made of flexible synthetic rubber. Since all I use are 12 AWG, I don't have to worry much about current capacity.

If you have OSHA oversight, they really don't like an extension cord with cut or abraded sheath (they really don't like extension cords), so our get retired if they have a single nick that exposes the insulated wires inside.

So my old trusty extension cord with probably a whole roll of Super 33 over the worn areas isn't OSHA approved?

It's a good thing I don't approve OSHA

 

[Beerhippie]

So my old trusty extension cord with probably a whole roll of Super 33 over the worn areas isn't OSHA approved?

It's a good thing I don't approve OSHA

Back when I was working construction, OSHA could show up on site and inspect all cords. Any they found with the inside wires exposed, they cut. Made for some unhappy construction workers, as we typically bought our own extension cords. A 50', 12 AWG, all-weather cord was expensive--as in a couple of hours' of work expensive!

Of course, they weren't just there to inspect cords. God forbid you got caught with a pinned guard on your Skill 77 or roofing without fall protection (no one used fall protection when roofing, as it's generally more of a hazard on a stocked roof than falling)!

 

[dscheidt]

My coffee grinder (a fellow ode. Does a pretty good job for the drip coffee we consume around here, but don't buy one.) died the other morning. Just stopped grinding in the middle of the job. It's got a fancy PLC controlled motor, which is supposed to shut the motor off if it jams (and also detects when it's done grinding the batch it was fed). It's jammed a couple times before -- coffee grounds can get around the front burr and jam the space up. It beeps loudly, and refuses to do anything. This time, it just shut off. No beep when plugged back in, nothing. Burr and output cleaning didn't resolve things, so I took the bottom off -- six screws, four under the little rubber feet, two under the label. Not supposed to take this apart, clearly.... That revealed a PCB, and quick inspection revealed the component lableled F1 was open. F1 is of course a fuse, and of course it's soldered to the board, because the PLC is supposed to protect the motor...... Some googling turned up this is a common problem, and Fellow's response is pretty much "too bad, buy a new one". Screw that. $6 got a replacement fuse, and 9 spares. 15 minutes of work, it's grinding again. But really, who the hell solders a motor protection fuse in place? At least it's a through hole component, and easy to replace for grumps who don't think a $300 machine should die after 3 years.

 

[Beerhippie]

My coffee grinder (a fellow ode. Does a pretty good job for the drip coffee we consume around here, but don't buy one.) died the other morning. Just stopped grinding in the middle of the job. It's got a fancy PLC controlled motor, which is supposed to shut the motor off if it jams (and also detects when it's done grinding the batch it was fed). It's jammed a couple times before -- coffee grounds can get around the front burr and jam the space up. It beeps loudly, and refuses to do anything. This time, it just shut off. No beep when plugged back in, nothing. Burr and output cleaning didn't resolve things, so I took the bottom off -- six screws, four under the little rubber feet, two under the label. Not supposed to take this apart, clearly.... That revealed a PCB, and quick inspection revealed the component lableled F1 was open. F1 is of course a fuse, and of course it's soldered to the board, because the PLC is supposed to protect the motor...... Some googling turned up this is a common problem, and Fellow's response is pretty much "too bad, buy a new one". Screw that. $6 got a replacement fuse, and 9 spares. 15 minutes of work, it's grinding again. But really, who the hell solders a motor protection fuse in place? At least it's a through hole component, and easy to replace for grumps who don't think a $300 machine should die after 3 years.

I see those soldered fuses a lot. If it's something I'm likely to be blowing a few of, I'll solder in an in-line fuse holder with pigtails.

My coffee grinder also died mysteriously the other day--I was grinding away and it suddenly just stopped.

After careful analysis, I finally figured out that the problem was that I hadn't had morning coffee yet and had stopped turning the crank.

 

[rharman]

Back in the day, we had to deal with personal computer boards with soldered-in-place batteries. Brilliant scheme....

 

[The Cobbler]

speaking of electronics repairs, anyone watch My Mate Vince or Buy It Fix It on you tube?
similar but different guys with similar but different talents . both very good at electronics repairs

 

[toolmiser]

Bought a Kitchenaid Proline toaster at a group sale for $5.00. Recent toasters don't do a very good job and take forever. We looked this one up online and it sells for almost $300.00. Brought it home and it didn't work right. Took it apart and cleaned it but nothing. Called Kitchenaid and asked about repairs, they said there wasn't repairs available-but would give me a deal on a new one. So I worked on the original one a some more and found a contact that looked bad so I dressed it up, and it worked.

 

[Beerhippie]

Bought a Kitchenaid Proline toaster at a group sale for $5.00. Recent toasters don't do a very good job and take forever. We looked this one up online and it sells for almost $300.00. Brought it home and it didn't work right. Took it apart and cleaned it but nothing. Called Kitchenaid and asked about repairs, they said there wasn't repairs available-but would give me a deal on a new one. So I worked on the original one a some more and found a contact that looked bad so I dressed it up, and it worked.

My kitchen toaster is a 1950s Toastmaster. I can't find any pics right now, but it's my daily user. $15 at a second-hand store, quick disassembly and cleaning and it works like nothing made in this century--or the last half of the previous one! Honest--my last toaster died a horrible death and I've been through new toasters costing anywhere from $30-125, and NONE of them worked as well!

It's right purty, too

 

[Dozerhand]

I've always taken that sticker as a personal challenge

 

[Hal]

See my post here. Rescued a light.

Rescued light this afternoon

Had this Ryobi battery light for a few years. It finally got dropped on its head one too many times. Surprisingly, even though it was “structurally unsound” ( smashed all to hell), it still worked. I bought a replacement in December, which had a short life. Last week it was still hanging from...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

So my old trusty extension cord with probably a whole roll of Super 33 over the worn areas isn't OSHA approved?

It's a good thing I don't approve OSHA

Sounds like you got your extension cord from my dad’s trash. He had a 100’ 12 gauge cord that was probably from the late 60s that he used on the farm for electric augers and for the trailer when we were camping. It was run over with the mower and spliced back together and was wrapped in several spots with electrical tape. I was helping him trim his hedges with his old metal cased B&D electric trimmers plugged into that cord and when I hit the trigger got a pretty good shock. He pulled out the tape fixed a spot and says “try it now”. I made him try it before he handed it back to me. When he died my brother and I threw it away when we were cleaning out his garage.

 

[dscheidt]

My coffee grinder (a fellow ode. Does a pretty good job for the drip coffee we consume around here, but don't buy one.) died the other morning. Just stopped grinding in the middle of the job. It's got a fancy PLC controlled motor, which is supposed to shut the motor off if it jams (and also detects when it's done grinding the batch it was fed). It's jammed a couple times before -- coffee grounds can get around the front burr and jam the space up. It beeps loudly, and refuses to do anything. This time, it just shut off. No beep when plugged back in, nothing. Burr and output cleaning didn't resolve things, so I took the bottom off -- six screws, four under the little rubber feet, two under the label. Not supposed to take this apart, clearly.... That revealed a PCB, and quick inspection revealed the component lableled F1 was open. F1 is of course a fuse, and of course it's soldered to the board, because the PLC is supposed to protect the motor...... Some googling turned up this is a common problem, and Fellow's response is pretty much "too bad, buy a new one". Screw that. $6 got a replacement fuse, and 9 spares. 15 minutes of work, it's grinding again. But really, who the hell solders a motor protection fuse in place? At least it's a through hole component, and easy to replace for grumps who don't think a $300 machine should die after 3 years.

The nice thing about having to buy 10 of any electronic component is that you've got a spare for when it breaks again in six months. Repair was made harder because the last guy was sloppy as all hell. Probably should find a new tech. Oh, wait....

I'm very tempted to put a slightly lower rated fuse in the power cord.

 

[foghorn1966]

My coffee grinder (a fellow ode. Does a pretty good job for the drip coffee we consume around here, but don't buy one.) died the other morning. Just stopped grinding in the middle of the job. It's got a fancy PLC controlled motor, which is supposed to shut the motor off if it jams (and also detects when it's done grinding the batch it was fed). It's jammed a couple times before -- coffee grounds can get around the front burr and jam the space up. It beeps loudly, and refuses to do anything. This time, it just shut off. No beep when plugged back in, nothing. Burr and output cleaning didn't resolve things, so I took the bottom off -- six screws, four under the little rubber feet, two under the label. Not supposed to take this apart, clearly.... That revealed a PCB, and quick inspection revealed the component lableled F1 was open. F1 is of course a fuse, and of course it's soldered to the board, because the PLC is supposed to protect the motor...... Some googling turned up this is a common problem, and Fellow's response is pretty much "too bad, buy a new one". Screw that. $6 got a replacement fuse, and 9 spares. 15 minutes of work, it's grinding again. But really, who the hell solders a motor protection fuse in place? At least it's a through hole component, and easy to replace for grumps who don't think a $300 machine should die after 3 years.

Same thing happened on a LG refrigerator a few years ago. Soldered on standard sized glass fuse with lead ends on the control board.
New board $450, Has to come out of Toronto or Florida. Appliance tech booking a week out too. Took the board to my local electronics repair shop & they soldered on a std fuse holder. New fuse & fridge was working. House got a surge suppressor installed. I wonder how many good fridges get scrapped over a$1 fuse & a $5 fuse holder.

 

[dchawk81]

Sounds like you got your extension cord from my dad’s trash. He had a 100’ 12 gauge cord that was probably from the late 60s that he used on the farm for electric augers and for the trailer when we were camping. It was run over with the mower and spliced back together and was wrapped in several spots with electrical tape. I was helping him trim his hedges with his old metal cased B&D electric trimmers plugged into that cord and when I hit the trigger got a pretty good shock. He pulled out the tape fixed a spot and says “try it now”. I made him try it before he handed it back to me. When he died my brother and I threw it away when we were cleaning out his garage.

 

[dnschmidt]

I prefer to solve these problems with money. BUY A STEINER HEAT GUN.

 

[dscheidt]

I prefer to solve these problems with money. BUY A STEINER HEAT GUN.

does it grind coffee?

 

[AEAdam]

I feel like the warnings “no user serviceable parts” simply doesn’t work on people like us so they just gave up.

Apple designed custom proprietary fasteners for iPhones and pretty shortly after you could buy them on the open market.

You can’t keep people like us out of stuff we buy. Even WARNING: FLAMMABLE, CHANCE OF A HORRIBLE DEATH doesn’t stop us.

On a serious note, I doubt any sort of warning would even hold up in court.

Good on ya for fixing your own stuff! You get the GJ award of the week.

 

[cmandp]

does it grind coffee?

No, but it roasts it!

 

[Packard V8]

The Maytag repairman was fired years ago. Today's Maytag washers have a "non-serviceable drum." When the bearings go out, and they all go out in less than five years, the only repair is a complete new drum unit, which cost about $1000.

There's a guy on the internet who figured out how to R&R the "non-serviceable" bearings. He'll rent you a custom puller and a video of how-to. Cute thing is he uses his mother as the repair person. First time through, no way I could keep up with her, but my excuse was she had the benefit of editing! Now that I've done it once, I see how I could have done it with the pullers I have in the shop. The good news is his bearings are much better than the OEM Maytag bearings and thus far have lasted twice as long.

jack vines

 

[tak1313]

The Maytag repairman was fired years ago. Today's Maytag washers have a "non-serviceable drum." When the bearings go out, and they all go out in less than five years, the only repair is a complete new drum unit, which cost about $1000.

jack vines

Yeah, but have you seen him on TV? He can juggle a whole wad of clothes quite well without losing any of them - while squatting!