Re: Norseman Drill set dea
There have been recent threads on this forum where people have been very unhappy with recent Norseman. Please don't take my word for it. Check it out.
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So I read that post I believe. I DO NOT want this post to be a carryover of that post. PLEASE!
Here is some information from my experience. I am not a machinist and do not drill hundreds of holes a day.
Sheet metal can be drilled with drills DESIGNED for that task or you can modify a drill bit for the task. If anyone is interested in modifying a drill then please check out Tom’s Techniques on You Tube where he modifies numerous drills for plastic, sheet metal and flat bottom drilling. He created the flat bottom drill video for me when I asked about this on a machinist forum. They are really good videos. Super knowledgeable machinist he is.
Chipped edges are likely caused by drilling freehand and not maintaining a stable drill orientation relative to the cutting surface. This will happen with any drill. A drill press can minimize or eliminate this if the material is well clamped. Stability is needed to get great looking holes. So either you use a handheld drill in a stable fashion or clamp the piece to the drill press table.
Small drills breaking is not uncommon. When flutes get packed then where can the chip go? It won’t go anywhere and the drill will break. Discolored tips indicate heat. With proper drilling and end mill use the heat should go into the chip. Using coolant or cutting oil is recommended for various reasons. Colored chips are great but colored drills are not.
Understanding proper speeds and feeds is key. You need to be cutting a chip. If you are not then you are rubbing and rubbing is not cutting. You can’t rub a hole into most things. Cardboard maybe. Bigger drills need slower speeds and smaller drills need higher speeds to maintain a reasonable surface feet per minute (sfpm). But you need to make some curlies. No chips, no good.
There are standard hss drill sets and there are cobalt sets. Picking the right drill material is helpful when drilling hard materials and getting great drill life. Split point drills at 135* will drill great in the correct material and will often times not need predrilling. A center punch mark often is sufficient to keep a drill on center.
Multiple failures in one set of drills is difficult to understand. They are produced by the manufacturer at different times. Heat treating is done in batches and no one drill set has all of those individual drills heat treated at the same time. So it can’t be a heat treat failure. Quality control at modern production facilities is really over the top. But this ensures that poor quality products to not make it out the doors.
So I’m not sure what happened but reading up on Norseman online on multiple forums will give a great birds eye view of many people’s experiences. Norseman produces drills for industrial users. You cannot produce **** and get away with it. You just can’t.
I have many many Norseman drills various lengths, materials and sizes. I have not had any problems unless I caused them by doing some or all of the above listed practices.
It’s pretty simple in my opinion. Everyone needs to learn to drill on a drill press and understand some basic concepts. In the process we might make some mistakes but in the end anyone can drill great holes. On a drill press or freehand. Give a machinist some cheap chinese drills and they can make the best out of that situation and drill some good holes. But that person would take into account that lack of quality of the drills, not overfeed or underfeed, use proper speeds and know when to touch up the cutting edges.
Now back to our scheduled programming.....
