Nut/bolt torque - degree/angle range vs specific number

[mossyoakglock]

I recently purchased a digital torque wrench with the main use being the degree/angle function.

I have a 2022 Silverado and more and more nuts/bolts require additional degrees once the initial torque is reached where my previous truck didn't have any. The u-bolts, tie-rod end, upper ball joint and sway bar end-link to name a few.

Some of them have a range that is provided while others have a specific degree required. For example, the u-bolts are torqued to 59 ft-lbs, backed off 180 degrees, torqued to 59 ft-lbs again and then the final pass is 120-140 degrees. When a degree range is given, what is the best practice? Go with the lower end at 120 degrees or the higher end of 140 degrees or somewhere in the middle, say 130 degrees?

Secondly, between a click-type torque wrench or split beam, is one better than the other when it comes to accuracy, keeping accuracy longer, etc?

 

[BillK]

I usually split it and go in the middle,in your example 130.

As far as torque wrenches go I dont think there is enough difference for most of us to worry about. I have only had one split beam type and it had a problem where it would stick sometimes. I got in the habit of putting it on a low setting and "clicking" it a couple of times and then it would be fine. It was Snap On and I ended up trading it for a traditional click type. Call me old fashioned but I still do not trust the digital ones

 

[mossyoakglock]

I haven't had it that long but there is definitely a learning curve when it comes to using the digital one. Just trying to figure out the beep and how much further I can/cannot go. I just played around with it on lug nuts and followed up with my standard click wrench and it's been pretty close.

I got it mainly for the degree/angle function but haven't used it for that yet. I figured splitting the difference is the best practice when it's such a broad range.

 

[dscheidt]

Sometimes stuff gets very very tight. Getting to the low end means you can stop worrying you're going to break something.

 

[dnschmidt]

Always go for a bigger wrench when using angle. What starts off as 40N-m goes well over 135 when the angle is added. This can cause digital torque wrenches to go into error mode if their maximum torque is exceeded. I know this is true for Eclatorq and is likely true for others as well. If you need angle there is no alternative to digital. Nobody makes a clicker or split beam that does angle for obvious reasons.

 

[logical]

With a range that big, I think I'd just use an ordinary ratchet or breaker bar and close one eye.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

If you need angle there is no alternative to digital

Other than the separate gauges? I'm not familiar but I've seen them.

 

[KnurledNut]

For fasteners like the steering and suspension bolts mentioned that have a wide acceptable range, it may be simpler to use the six points of the bolt itself to set the angle.
Each point on a hex is 60° from the next.
If you're doing torque plus angle, set the initial torque, mark the bolt position and turn it the desired angle. 60, 120, 180, 240, 300, 360 are given. But its not too hard to eye an additional 30°, just center it on the flat instead of the corner.

 

[AEAdam]

I haven't had it that long but there is definitely a learning curve when it comes to using the digital one. Just trying to figure out the beep and how much further I can/cannot go. I just played around with it on lug nuts and followed up with my standard click wrench and it's been pretty close.

What does this mean? You set the digital to 80ftlbs for example, torqued the lugs, then set the clicker to 80 and it clicked? If so, torque wrenches don’t work like that. You can’t inspect the torque of fastener with a torque wrench. Reason is the difference between static and kinetic friction. Also the reason why you need to hit the target torque while moving.

Snap on patented what they called their (digital torque wrenches) “early warning system”. In their research, they determined most mechanics pulled thru the click and release of their torque wrenches, inadvertently over torquing. So the lights, beeps are there to warn you you are close and to stop soon. The wrench typically reports the final and actual torque so you can calibrate your technique.

Here’s a tip: clickers were designed to release at the target. Sense the release and stop pulling as soon as the wrench starts to release. Don’t pull thru the click or double click. Remember, Moses was banned from the promised land for double clicking. Double clicking is bad.

I got it mainly for the degree/angle function but haven't used it for that yet. I figured splitting the difference is the best practice when it's such a broad range.

As an engineer, my default is to provide bilateral tolerance, so good assumption.

In terms of accuracy, forget the tool and think much more about friction. Remember the real requirement from engineering is bolt stretch and joint compression. Torque is just a convenient way to approximate that. But the applied torque is greatly affected by friction in the threads and under the head. Those surfaces must be clean, fair, and appropriately lubricated. The worlds best torque wrench can’t compensate for that.

 

[mossyoakglock]

I forgot about this thread so my apologies on for not getting back.

Thank you all for the clarifications, etc.

 

[Codyboy]

A 2022 that already needs work?

When I rebuilt the engine in my 2000 silverado it had TTY head bolts.
I torqued with my clicker and made me a degree wheel from cardboard.
Used a breaker bar for the degrees .

 

[BlackJack10]

I recently purchased a digital torque wrench with the main use being the degree/angle function.

I have a 2022 Silverado and more and more nuts/bolts require additional degrees once the initial torque is reached where my previous truck didn't have any. The u-bolts, tie-rod end, upper ball joint and sway bar end-link to name a few.

Some of them have a range that is provided while others have a specific degree required. For example, the u-bolts are torqued to 59 ft-lbs, backed off 180 degrees, torqued to 59 ft-lbs again and then the final pass is 120-140 degrees. When a degree range is given, what is the best practice? Go with the lower end at 120 degrees or the higher end of 140 degrees or somewhere in the middle, say 130 degrees?

Secondly, between a click-type torque wrench or split beam, is one better than the other when it comes to accuracy, keeping accuracy longer, etc?

When a spec gives a degree range, aim for the middle unless the procedure says otherwise. The range accounts for friction, coating, and bolt stretch, not installer preference. Hitting the midpoint gives consistent clamp load without pushing the fastener toward yield. Only go to the high end if the service manual calls for it or if you are replacing torque to yield hardware.

For accuracy, split beam and digital wrenches hold calibration better over time. Click type works fine, but they are more sensitive to storage and spring wear. If you already have a digital with angle, use it and just keep it calibrated.