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Ok how long before concrete ?

cvcman

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Pole barn is up, pad has been down about 5 months,,,it has about 47" of bank run gravel fill in the rear, compacted every 10" and the pad sat for months before building went up...
I was thinking of just putting down a couple inches of crusher run and compacting and leaving it because I will probably just be using it to store a motorhome and tractor and cars...
But IF I decide to do concrete how long before I should do it ?? And can the floor be poured right on top of the bank run after its dried out ??
Is there any good thing about NOT doing concrete ?
 
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Kaizen

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Not a pro on concrete but compaction is key. Not sure about the crusher run. If it’s compacted I don’t see it being an issue. Moving in and out vehicles and just walking around on it will loosen it up over time so count on compacting again before concrete. If the pad/building is well drained no limit on time. Downside to no concrete is ease of use. Rolling around things like jacks and tools. I built a garage so I didn’t have to lay in the dirt anymore. So I love my floor


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cvcman

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Yea I hear that, I have a 16 x 24 finished garage where my welder and tools are that I use just to work on cars,tractors etc and that has a nice floor and lighting...The pole barn was going to be storage for cars and motorhome basically ...
The compacted crusher run in the driveway doesnt move at all, its like cement...but it doesn't drain water well either
 

kgordon

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Compacted every 10 inches? I think you will have concrete cracks in a couple years.

Depends on what size compactor but I would prefer 6-8" lifts. Unless is was spec'd by the engineer.

Put a vapor barrier down, compact again and pour. Done.
 

ConCretin

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I would think your bank run gravel is absolutely fine for your base. Add a lift of 3/4" material if you need to fine grade to get it to within plus or minus 1/4" or so.

I can't think of any reason to wait or not to do concrete other than the cost. In addition to providing a smooth sweepable surface, as others have said an under slab vapor barrier would reduce moisture in the structure.

Good luck with your decision making.
 

TractorJeff

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Well?
Pad has sat for 5 months?
With building over it?
OR
Has the building just been put up?
If the pad sat through Fall rains and Winter snow, then go in and re-level and compact what you got. After it dries and the Spring thaw has settled to allow delivery traffic as most roads are weight posted now. Put down vapor barrier and rebar, then pour!
If the building was put up immediately back in the Fall over the slab, then I would still wait for maybe the end of April or mid May before I got serious about pouring Concrete!
 
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cvcman

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Syracuse NY
Well?
Pad has sat for 5 months?
With building over it?
OR
Has the building just been put up?
If the pad sat through Fall rains and Winter snow, then go in and re-level and compact what you got. After it dries and the Spring thaw has settled to allow delivery traffic as most roads are weight posted now. Put down vapor barrier and rebar, then pour!
If the building was put up immediately back in the Fall over the slab, then I would still wait for maybe the end of April or mid May before I got serious about pouring Concrete!

pad sat for about 5 months with NO building ,,,then a month with the building so it rained, snow, sun, froze, thaw,,,
 

matt_i

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My opinion is the addition of water does the best job of settling everything down, but it takes a long time. The vibratory compaction methods also work well but they're faster. For crusher run with the fines down to dust, I would definitely recommend water to get all of those fines settled down. Once its stabilized, however, its just awesome with a hard base like a well-maintained gravel road. Usually most people don't want to take the time....spread stone saturday, pour concrete monday...
 
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cvcman

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My opinion is the addition of water does the best job of settling everything down, but it takes a long time. The vibratory compaction methods also work well but they're faster. For crusher run with the fines down to dust, I would definitely recommend water to get all of those fines settled down. Once its stabilized, however, its just awesome with a hard base like a well-maintained gravel road. Usually most people don't want to take the time....spread stone saturday, pour concrete monday...


I don't have water near the building so I need to figure a way to water it down inside
 

TractorJeff

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Let me see?
Syracuse NY is in the snow belt for Northern New York State if I remember correctly?
I'm pretty certain this "new" fill has gotten LOTS of settling since last Fall! The top maybe torn up from the Pole Barn builders but if they didn't bury their equipment in mushy soup, then I'd be pretty certain it is settled and compacted pretty good!
 

rburke65

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Trenching and running a poly water line down to my pole barn, setting a hydrant, was one of the best tongs I have ever done. I was close to 250'+ fron th house....that's a long way for a drink of water. Plus it makes it easy to power wash equipment. I know this post was about concrete, but....
 

Lightningteg

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My opinion is the addition of water does the best job of settling everything down, but it takes a long time. The vibratory compaction methods also work well but they're faster. For crusher run with the fines down to dust, I would definitely recommend water to get all of those fines settled down. Once its stabilized, however, its just awesome with a hard base like a well-maintained gravel road. Usually most people don't want to take the time....spread stone saturday, pour concrete monday...

Are you saying one should spray water on the filler after its been placed to help everything settle? I know they should do it during compaction, but doing so weeks before hand could help settling of newer material right?
 

ConCretin

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Are you saying one should spray water on the filler after its been placed to help everything settle? I know they should do it during compaction, but doing so weeks before hand could help settling of newer material right?

If you decide to place concrete right away, I'd opt for mechanical compaction after your final lift of fill. Water will help materials settle i.e. compact soil but I'd feel better if I ran a wacker over it. If your not going to place concrete now, I'd just let it sit until you do.
 

lakeroadster

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But IF I decide to do concrete how long before I should do it ??

No need to wait at all if it was compacted correctly. You can assume.. or you can actually verify it's correct. Concrete's expensive, I paid to have it tested just like the county and state folks do when building projects with our tax dollars.
Proctor Compaction Testing of Sub-Grade Material

And can the floor be poured right on top of the bank run after its dried out ??

Different fill materials require different compaction methods and different thickness lifts. All that data can be found here: Selecting Sub Grade Materials: Soil Compaction Handbook

Is there any good thing about NOT doing concrete ?

If the fill wasn't compacted correctly then the longevity and success of the finished concrete slab is a roll of the dice.
 
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TractorJeff

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QUOTE: Is there any good thing about NOT doing concrete ?
You don't have to worry about Oil/Fuel drips from the "Toys" parked on Fill!
LOL!
 
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