Old Campbell Hausfeld Compressor

[ngonerogwu]

So picked this thing up off craigslist last night.

1996 Campbell Hausfeld, pump and motor say made in the USA. It's obviously worked hard all it's life. Covered in overspray. It sat for a while apparently, the motor had a ton of wasp nests in it.

I got the guy to turn it on when I got there. Builds to 175 in around 5min, and then shuts off. There is a leak somewhere, you can hear it bleeding off pressure constantly. Pretty sure it's just the line that runs between the pump and the tank, it is bent, looks like something knocked the hell out of it.

The seller was sure that the reed valves were bad and needed to be replaced. Maybe he's right, but i figured if it made pressure and shut off on it's own, they're probably fine. Either way, probably not a difficult fix.

Big thing for me now is getting enough power to it. Data plate says 30a, and 36a. Pretty sure that means use a 50a.

Shop has 40a feeding it from the house, on 8/3. Looks like i'd need to pull new wire out there, 6/3 IIRC (i'll need to check). Swap out the 40a in the main house panel, put in a 50. (This may all be wrong, i have no idea what i'm doing)

Whole lot bigger than my old one.

After a bit of cleaning..

Anyways, gave $300 for it. Probably not a great deal, but I need more air.

 

[Ohmthis]

I have the same compressor. Mine was built in 1986 though. They are tough pumps. Mine has a small leak too and it is so small that I haven't even bothered looking for it. Good buy, not sure what compressors go for in your area. I paid $200 for mine, but the seller had no idea what he had. He bought the shop that mine was in and though it was just an old compressor. I'm almost positive that they still make rebuild parts for the pump, but for me I feel the tank will rust out before I ever get to that point.

 

[ngonerogwu]

I have the same compressor. Mine was built in 1986 though. They are tough pumps. Mine has a small leak too and it is so small that I haven't even bothered looking for it. Good buy, not sure what compressors go for in your area. I paid $200 for mine, but the seller had no idea what he had. He bought the shop that mine was in and though it was just an old compressor. I'm almost positive that they still make rebuild parts for the pump, but for me I feel the tank will rust out before I ever get to that point.

Heh, we're in the same area. I've been watching all the craigslists near here to find one, 300 is about what a 3.2hp like my other one would sell for. This is a fairly unknown quantity I suppose, not sure how good the tank is, can't even figure out how to check.

 

[Ohmthis]

Update your profile, please. We can all see where you are if you ever ask a question where your location would be helpful. Sounds like you might be able to recoup your money by selling your other compressor. As far as testing your tank, you will have to ask someone who is more knowledgable on that. But be sure to put a ball valve on the drain so you can get as much water out as you can.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Alright, so quick update.

Initially, it would run to 175 within 5 minutes, and shut off... and LEAK.

First leak.. the pipe that runs between the compressor and tank is for some reason two pieces. I don't know that it came that way from the factory. I tightened up the center fitting, and it no longer leaks.

Next, the big one... the head.
Seller told me that he had replaced the valve plate assembly a few years ago, and had replaced the rings and whatnot at the same time. I'm guessing this is true after having the motor open. The valve plate was.. loosely installed. So i pulled the valve plate, tightened the fasteners for the valve holders themselves, cleaned up all the gasket mating surfaces (they were horrible), and torqued everything to spec (very loose before). Wooooo no more leak!

Neeext up was the crankcase oil fill vent tube leaking air. (hellllooo people searching for this issue).

So good amount of air coming out the vent. searching kept leading me back to the rings or valves being bad... well if they were bad it seems like i wouldn't make pressure so quickly.. plus the rings looked okay, as did they cylinder walls. Turns out it was the large check valve inside the tank. Located on the fitting that goes from the pump to the tank.. it's just a simple one-way valve. It was FILTHY. Plus there was a screw inside it. Like.. literally inside it. a small torx screw.. real tiny. Who knows. It was totally jammed up with gunk. Cleaned the hell out of that, valve now works freely.. reinstall and no more leaks!

I found some guidance on an ingersoll rand PDF of belt tension.. so set that more or less correctly, and I need to change the oil in the pump, it looks DARK, as well as quite low.

Last concern is the motor.. I'm wondering if there are bad bearings, I don't really know how to fix that, so we'll see. It starts sounding bad after a while, kind of a high pitched noise. I dunno. Probably bad. Gonna change the oil in the pump first and go from there.

Oh and about the breakers. I only have 40a running to the shop due to short sightedness. Oops. So it's running on 40a now. Which it runs. I know it's not to code, and I know it's dumb. Only other thing running is the lights and they're pulsing with the compressor running. If you think running it on 40 is dumb, you oughta see how I wired it up.. even worse (nothing unsafe, all wire gauges matched to breakers, just.. ugly) Anyways, just temporary to rig it up for testing to fix the thing. I'm running larger wire and upgrading everything to support it + more. Just figured I'd make sure it was in good enough shape before I tore it all down for paint and powder.

 

[ngonerogwu]

So does anyone know how the heck to get the pump pulley off?

Guessing I'm gonna need to go get a puller of some sort.

I'm trying to get it all broken down so I can take it in for some sort of testing. I read too many threads on these things exploding, and the bottom is covered in flaky rust, and now I'm properly scared of it.

 

[Kev442]

Pulleys on heavy use, critical installs usually have two set screws in the hole, not one.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Pulleys on heavy use, critical installs usually have two set screws in the hole, not one.

Two set screws on the motor pulley. None on the pump pulley, just a large bolt, lock washer, washer assembly. Didn't have time to go buy one today, hopefully tomorrow.

No luck on finding anyone to check it out. One repair shop told me there's a place a couple hours away that'll do it, but will run about 1k to do so.

No luck finding a replacement tank either yet.

Maybe I'll try doing the hydrostatic test myself, either it will hold or it won't I suppose, and it's better finding out with water than air.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I have that same compressor. Its a Husky 7½ hp from Home Depot, 2003. Made by CH.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Charles, I read your thread that stand is awesome.

I would loooooove to have a newer tank like yours, incredibly difficult to find. Easy to find the 80gal with the air inlet is in the top center, but that does me no good.

I did hook it to my blasting cabinet for a couple parts to see what it was like.. Awesome. Gonna be able to go up a size on my nozzle. So much better than my little 3.2 60gal.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I think you are worrying way too much about nothing. Have you drained the tank? What did you get out of it? Probably nothing at all wrong with it. Its not like you are buying a 1940's or '50's compressor.

What is the object of removing the pulleys? If they don't need to come off, don't mess with them. Odds are, something is going to get messed up or damaged, or not put back together just exactly like it was and will come loose later on. Fix the leaks, put 10W30 Mobil I in the pump (something less than 2 qts to fill it) and change the air filter, and let 'her rip.

Charles

 

[ngonerogwu]

I've taken the top safety valve out, and the gauge, so I can shine a light in there and look at the same time. It is a slurry of giant rust flakes and water. I'm not sure how to remove it, it's too thick to come out the drain on it's own.

I took a hammer to the bottom and no soft spots.

Wanted to remove the pulley in order to remove the belt guard to powder coat it. Would like to powder the pump, and what I can of the motor, paint the rest.

 

[G_P]

The pulley is probably pressed on and has a key. Yes, you will need a puller to remove it.
As for the motor bearings, they are usually fairly easy to replace. Just take note of the numbers on them and order new ones. Then pull off or out the old ones and press in or on the new ones. Some bearings will stay in the motor end caps and some will stay on the shaft.

For the rusty tank, take the drain valve out of the bottom and jam a metal rod or screwdriver in the hole to break up the rust and get the water to drain out. It only takes a little bit of rust flaking to completely clog up the drain.

 

[ngonerogwu]

The pulley is probably pressed on and has a key. Yes, you will need a puller to remove it.
As for the motor bearings, they are usually fairly easy to replace. Just take note of the numbers on them and order new ones. Then pull off or out the old ones and press in or on the new ones. Some bearings will stay in the motor end caps and some will stay on the shaft.

For the rusty tank, take the drain valve out of the bottom and jam a metal rod or screwdriver in the hole to break up the rust and get the water to drain out. It only takes a little bit of rust flaking to completely clog up the drain.

On the bearings, easy enough. The bearing models are convieniently listed on the motors data plate! Can't complain there

As far as the drain, I had removed it, and drained the small amount of water in there.

There is still a thick slurry of flaky rust and water. I had used some fiberglass wire pulling sticks to poke that drain hole clear to get all the water out, like you said the flakes clogged it. If I had a metal rod I would maybe use that to sort of sweep the rust down towards the drain. The fiberglass sticks are too flexible.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Okay... Took pics..

 

[ngonerogwu]

Just finished getting all that **** out of there.

Turned it on its side and used the hose to knock it all loose, then turned it upright and used the hose to blow it out the drain.

Now I'm all cold and wet.

Not real sure if I'm in any better of a position than I was earlier.

 

[ngonerogwu]

 

[Kev442]

I sure wouldn't run that tank at 175. I took my sears from the 70's down to 135. It does look a little bit better than I expected from the first pics.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Been reading about the doing the hydrostatic testing with a grease gun.

Closest place that'll do real hydro testing is a couple hours away and over $1k.

Some people say it's an absolute waste of time, because it doesn't prove anything other than it will hold that specific pressure right then.

Others say to just use the tank after getting it drained, because ASME cert'd tanks are better made than the cheapo Chinese ones now. It wouldn't explode, just develop a pinhole leak.

And finally, people say they'll blow up, and I could SERIOUSLY hurt myself and my shop.

I dunno what to do.

 

[Kev442]

My take is that 50% of the thickness is gone on the bottom. It was tested to 300+ psi when new. I would do the water/grease gun to 200 and if it survived, run it at 135. Although I have had a tank that pinholed, I would not want to stake my life, back wall, ceiling, car etc on it.

 

[ngonerogwu]

My take is that 50% of the thickness is gone on the bottom. It was tested to 300+ psi when new. I would do the water/grease gun to 200 and if it survived, run it at 135. Although I have had a tank that pinholed, I would not want to stake my life, back wall, ceiling, car etc on it.

Called Campbell Hausfeld this morning.. $480 for a new tank. I'll still be into this thing for less than I could get anything comparable for.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

After seeing the pics, yes, it is pitted petty bad. If it blew the bottom would separate where the rust line stops. $480 is not too bad (don't forget shipping) and If it is an exact fit and you can swap it all over, that would be the way to go. That compressor now is $1700 or so new.

If you get a new tank, have it shipped to a local trucking terminal and go pick it up there. Much less hassle and dollars cheaper than home delivery. They take a forklift and load it on your trailer, and off you go.

Charles

 

[ngonerogwu]

Actually I'd go pick it up.

They make them in a little town in Kentucky that's about an hour and a half from here. The customer service guy said they'd have to build the tank for me, would take about 5 days.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Okay, so still trying to not spend that money.

Found a place sorta near here that will ultrasonic my tank, for free.

So right now the plan is to get that done, see how those numbers compare to what's on the ASME tag. If they're fine, then I'll hydro it myself to 300.

Thoughts?

 

[ngonerogwu]

Next time I'll maybe use a pallet.

Ultrasonic went well. ASME tag says .162, im at .15x on the rotted area at the bottom. Sides were actually slightly thicker than the tag specified.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Now to try and figure out if the motor really needs new bearings or not.

I'm pretty sure it does, there's no play in the shaft, but it's not real smooth. I have a hard time imagining that's just how these are... so probably bad.

I did some searching on how to replace motor bearings, and since I've never done it before.. I'm a bit hesitant. Probably gonna take it somewhere and see what they'll charge. It's awful expensive to replace.. so I don't wanna mess it up.

 

[redmondjp]

Now to try and figure out if the motor really needs new bearings or not.

I'm pretty sure it does, there's no play in the shaft, but it's not real smooth. I have a hard time imagining that's just how these are... so probably bad.

I did some searching on how to replace motor bearings, and since I've never done it before.. I'm a bit hesitant. Probably gonna take it somewhere and see what they'll charge. It's awful expensive to replace.. so I don't wanna mess it up.

There's not a lot to an AC electric motor. I wouldn't stress too much about doing it yourself. I'm sure there are a few videos posted online that show how to replace the bearings, like this one:

 

[ngonerogwu]

Hey thanks!

Not sure how I didn't find that

There's not a lot to an AC electric motor. I wouldn't stress too much about doing it yourself. I'm sure there are a few videos posted online that show how to replace the bearings, like this one:

 

[ngonerogwu]

Motor is done.

Had motor gone through. Decided I didn't feel comfortable opening up an expensive motor my first time around, took it to a local shop.

While it was apart, I powdered everything.

Everything on the way home from the motor shop..

Wiring cover done..

Everything all wrapped up to go back to the motor shop

Finished motor. Looks pretty slick I think.

 

[ngonerogwu]

A little more progress.

Gasket kit and a few replacement parts arrived as well.

 

[Ohmthis]

Man, that is looking good

 

[pault28]

I have a 60Gal quad cylinder version of this compressor. Same color, same series. I'd love to spruce mine up like yours! That is looking awesome. Great work!

 

[ngonerogwu]

I have a 60Gal quad cylinder version of this compressor. Same color, same series. I'd love to spruce mine up like yours! That is looking awesome. Great work!

You think that looks pretty close to the factory color?

I had a few lb of that color powder here and thought it would look nice.

Gotta decide if I should order the decals and stuff for it, Im pretty sure they offer them.

 

[pault28]

It's close. I'd say yours is a bit darker than the factory color. Here is a pic of mine for reference. It definitely needs some attention but runs like a champ!

 

[thieltech]

A little more progress.

Gasket kit and a few replacement parts arrived as well.

Very nice looking .

What cfm and RPM is the pump rated at ??

More pics

 

[ngonerogwu]

Very nice looking .

What cfm and RPM is the pump rated at ??

More pics

25cfm and 1020rpm

I'll start on the pump disassembly here in the next few days and take pics.

Edit.. I knew your username looked familiar... If this thing looks half as nice as your surface grinder I'll be pleased.

 

[ngonerogwu]

Finally did some more work on this thing. Hopefully get the rest done this week.

 

[ngonerogwu]

And that's done.

Need to hone the cylinders, and try and decide if I should buy rings or not. And bearings.. Not sure about those either.

 

[ngonerogwu]

I realized it had been almost two years since I'd worked on this compressor... so i got it put back together this last week.

The breather tube still needs repaired and refinished, but everything else is done.

I fired it up last night, found one leak so far. Realized the belt tension is MUCH more difficult to set than imagined as well.