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Old Craftsman 150 Drill Press

Outlawmws

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Is the owners manual original (Or a download), and do the model No's map properly? (the whole No.; not the first three digits, as that is simply the MFG code...)

Is the table one that can be tilted?
 
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EJM02

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Oct 23, 2011
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Looks killer so far!!

I'm in the middle of restoring a 100 model at present. I wish I was clever enough to come up with the 'poor man's lathe' as you did.

My solution to the column rust was to soak it in a 3" PVC (capped on one end obviously) filled with vinegar and a little table salt. Overnight the surface rust loosened to the point where an angle grinder with a cupped wire wheel did the trick.d
 
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doan

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Sep 25, 2012
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Frisco, TX
Now that painting is done, I had to fab some parts - pics below.

For parts I still need new bearings, and a 4-speed pulley for the motor. I saw a thread with the bearing details, but I don't remember where - will have to do some digging.

Motor Mounts from 2" angle iron
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Internal light
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Back plate for motor wiring (original was gone), and provide a place to anchor the flexible conduit.
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Cut slots in a standard handy-box and attached it to the post with hose clamps to house the switches.
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doan

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Looks killer so far!!

I'm in the middle of restoring a 100 model at present. I wish I was clever enough to come up with the 'poor man's lathe' as you did.

My solution to the column rust was to soak it in a 3" PVC (capped on one end obviously) filled with vinegar and a little table salt. Overnight the surface rust loosened to the point where an angle grinder with a cupped wire wheel did the trick.d

That's how i started, I didn't use PVC, I just made a paste with barkeepers friend and kept it damp. That got most of the rust. then I got tired of the angle grinder and scrounged up the stuff for the red-neck lathe.
 

Outlawmws

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Looking good!

Suggestion for the light bulb: You can gen small flood or spot lamps and get better light than just an regular light bulb, and use a lower wattage to get it. IIR, I had a 40 W in there
 

Bill Ramsey

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Dec 28, 2011
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Tulsa
Looks great, doan. Ready for another 50 years.

BTW, I once took the catalog prices for these old 1950's Craftsman presses and ran them through an inflation calculator. IIRC, it would be like spending $900-$1,000 on a press today, if that gives you an indication of how nice a press these were in their day.
 
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doan

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Had more wobble than I wanted, I went to HF and got a dial gauge. Started at about 0.024". Using a 1/2" grade 8 bolt in the chuck, a chunk of 2x4, and a 3lb hammer, I was able to get the runout to < 0.005". Switched to a 1lb hammer and chased my tail for a while trying to get better, but that as good as I could get.

I'm pretty happy, when I got it it was in bad shape. Before I got the dial gauge I tried to use feeler gauges and an angle iron fence. It was more than 0.060 (about a 1/16) when I started. You really need a dial gauge set up to get really close.

Here's a link to a video with the dial gauge tracking a 1/2" bit just below the jaws.


I'm pretty excited considering where I started.

I also learned the the old crusty belt I'm using is what is causing a lot of vibration. I put a shim between the head and the motor to back off the tension and it got a lot quieter.

Any recommendations on where to get a link belt? HF has 5ft for $25.
 

Outlawmws

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SNIP

Any recommendations on where to get a link belt? HF has 5ft for $25.

Unless they changed suppliers, the HF link belt is made in USA and it's a well regarded belt. A LOT of guys that work on the Craftsman/Atlas/Clausing mills and lathes use em.
 

454ragtop

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Carver, MA
I personally don't like link belts, especially on something like this where the belt comes right off without disassembly. I think they wear aluminum pulleys more than a std belt. Might think about a notched AX series, much better IMHO. Do you have the dimensions of the 4 step pulley you need, including motor shaft size? I have a few 4 step pulleys, of unknown origin.
Jim
 
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doan

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Frisco, TX
I personally don't like link belts, especially on something like this where the belt comes right off without disassembly. I think they wear aluminum pulleys more than a std belt. Might think about a notched AX series, much better IMHO. Do you have the dimensions of the 4 step pulley you need, including motor shaft size? I have a few 4 step pulleys, of unknown origin.
Jim

So the AX is just like a cogged automotive v-belt?

The motor pulley is 1/2" bore with a set screw, 1/2" belt, 4 speeds from about 1.5" to 5" in diameter.
 

tool_scrounge

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Southern California
I personally don't like link belts, especially on something like this where the belt comes right off without disassembly. I think they wear aluminum pulleys more than a std belt. Might think about a notched AX series, much better IMHO. Do you have the dimensions of the 4 step pulley you need, including motor shaft size? I have a few 4 step pulleys, of unknown origin.
Jim

I like the Goodyear FHP cogged belts. The last one I purchased was about $8 with shipping off of ebay. From what I have seen in the technical literature, the cogged belts are about 8% more efficient when running with a pulley <=2" diameter.
 
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doan

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Frisco, TX
Re: Old Craftsman 150 Drill Press - Restoration Complete

Finally done, just waiting on the 4-speed pulley for the motor. I stole a few good ideas from other posters here including adding the light inside the head and the fence for the table.

Photo Album HERE

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markw365

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Aug 16, 2011
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Looks good, now you need the speed reducer pulley. :) Let your quest begin.
 

bluebolt

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Dec 28, 2008
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Benton LA
I've been lookin... Also thinking about a variable speed motor from a treadmill

Keep your eyes open for the Craftsman variable speed motors too, I have two, one came on my 150 (non reversible) and the other has a refurb tag on it from Sears and is the reverisble one and will go on my benchtop 80
 
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