old gas can

jim · Apr 13, 2015

the lady down the street was throwing out a plastic gas can. looked brand new so i picked it up. opened it up and it had the funnel and all the gaskets in tacked. bone dry. had only a hint of gas smell. washed it out with water and dawn. my question is what else should i wash it out with. want to make sure that there is no varnish deposit of any kind. can i take some old gas and swish it around and dump it out to make sure it is clean. would gas dissolve any varnish deposits that might be left in the bottom of the plastic can? thanks jim

Bondo · Apr 13, 2015

jim said:
the lady down the street was throwing out a plastic gas can. looked brand new so i picked it up. opened it up and it had the funnel and all the gaskets in tacked. bone dry. had only a hint of gas smell. washed it out with water and dawn. my question is what else should i wash it out with. want to make sure that there is no varnish deposit of any kind. can i take some old gas and swish it around and dump it out to make sure it is clean. would gas dissolve any varnish deposits that might be left in the bottom of the plastic can? thanks jim

Ayuh,.... You've already cleaned it Way more than I woulda,.....

Bone dry, 'n no crud to the eye is clean enough to haul gas in,.....

Kevin54 · Apr 13, 2015

Throw some gas in it and call it a day. No reason to be that **** about a gas can. If you see no crud, you are good to go!!!

michiganman18 · Apr 13, 2015

You did way more than I wouldve. I wouldve made sure no water or debris then filled it with gas. Voila

rustyjames · Apr 13, 2015

Just a heads up--Ive had faily new plastic gas containers develop a leak on the bottom seam.

kd3pc · Apr 13, 2015

You might check with your AHJ, some of those "old" cans are no longer legal for use in many parts of this once great nation.....the new ones have to be spill proof, vapor proof and the like.

You almost need 4 hands to use one, with out spilling, but I suspect that no one at the EPA has actually ever had to use one, if they had - they would have quickly discovered that using the new cans with two hands will CAUSE fuel spills.

The are now called PFC, Portable Fuel Containers.

G_P · Apr 13, 2015

If its dry inside and not full of crud, just fill it up and use it.

Dont worry about the "gas can police" either. I've never heard of anyone getting in trouble for possessing an "old style" gas can.

LS6 Tommy · Apr 13, 2015

kd3pc said:
You might check with your AHJ, some of those "old" cans are no longer legal for use in many parts of this once great nation.....the new ones have to be spill proof, vapor proof and the like.

You almost need 4 hands to use one, with out spilling, but I suspect that no one at the EPA has actually ever had to use one, if they had - they would have quickly discovered that using the new cans with two hands will CAUSE fuel spills.

The are now called PFC, Portable Fuel Containers.

They are not illegal to use, you just can't buy a new one that isn't spill proof.

Tommy

rlitman · Apr 13, 2015

G_P said:
If its dry inside and not full of crud, just fill it up and use it.

Before you fill it up, make sure it doesn't leak. It's easier to handle a 1/4 full can of leaking gas than a full one...

IFMJohn · Apr 13, 2015

LS6 Tommy said:
They are not illegal to use, you just can't buy a new one that isn't spill proof.

Tommy

My father seems to have found a website where they will ship old school gas cans to california. He's got like 8 in the last couple years. They are sturdy too, all metal, nice cans.

coffeebean · Apr 13, 2015

whats the website for the old cans?

barnjunkie · Apr 13, 2015

Prior to the existence of plastic gas tanks, the metal ones had a specialized plastic lining that would degrade over several years and fill the inside of the tank with debris. It was thought that making a solid plastic tank would fix this, and while plastic debris is not a problem, other problems have still arisen. When gasoline is left sitting in a tank for a period of months or even years, it separates, leaving a solid sludge at the bottom. Sometimes this sludge breaks up and is carried off into the engine by the fuel lines, which will clog the air filters very quickly. What's even worse, rust and bits of burned carbon can flow back from the engine into the tank. For that reason one should clean out gas tanks every few years--more frequently if the tanks contained mixed gas or are rarely used. Removable tanks, such as those that come with boat motors, motorcycles and lawn care equipment tend to be easier to clean. However, they usually hold gasoline mixed with oil and tend to be left sitting longer between uses, so cleaning them is essential. The tank should be removed from its moorings and drained of any fuel. The fuel itself should be strained through a thick cloth if one intends to use it again. Once empty, throw in a handful of screws, bolts and nuts as well as a quart of cleaning solvent. The best cleaning solvent to use is acetone, given its tendency to vaporize quickly. The metal will help to scour the insides of the tank free of anything that would stick. Seal the cap of the tank, and then shake it thoroughly before pouring out the solvent and metal. You may need to rinse out the tank with more clean solvent, repeating the process until the solvent comes out clear. Simply leave the tank--cap off--in a well ventilated area for a day. The solvent will have vaporized by then, leaving you with a clean tank. Integral tanks are the kind that can't be removed from an engine, or at least removed without the use a fully equipped automotive repair garage. To empty, all the gas the tank contains must be siphoned out. It's normal for a small amount to remain in the bottom. You will need a strong magnet on a pole, a handful of iron or steel ball bearings (screws and nuts will work), a tank of compressed air with a hand-held spray gun and a gallon of rubbing alcohol. The rubbing alcohol and the ball bearings should be thrown in the tank and agitated with the compressed air gun. Since you can't shake the tank, you have to shake its contents. This should scour the interior well enough. Use the magnet to retrieve the metal ball bearings, and then siphon out the alcohol. A small amount of alcohol will remain inside, but it mixes well with gas and the engine should have no trouble burning through it.

LS6 Tommy · Apr 13, 2015

barnjunkie said:
Prior to the existence of plastic gas tanks, the metal ones had a specialized plastic lining that would degrade over several years and fill the inside of the tank with debris. It was thought that making a solid plastic tank would fix this, and while plastic debris is not a problem, other problems have still arisen. When gasoline is left sitting in a tank for a period of months or even years, it separates, leaving a solid sludge at the bottom. Sometimes this sludge breaks up and is carried off into the engine by the fuel lines, which will clog the air filters very quickly. What's even worse, rust and bits of burned carbon can flow back from the engine into the tank. For that reason one should clean out gas tanks every few years--more frequently if the tanks contained mixed gas or are rarely used. Removable tanks, such as those that come with boat motors, motorcycles and lawn care equipment tend to be easier to clean. However, they usually hold gasoline mixed with oil and tend to be left sitting longer between uses, so cleaning them is essential. The tank should be removed from its moorings and drained of any fuel. The fuel itself should be strained through a thick cloth if one intends to use it again. Once empty, throw in a handful of screws, bolts and nuts as well as a quart of cleaning solvent. The best cleaning solvent to use is acetone, given its tendency to vaporize quickly. The metal will help to scour the insides of the tank free of anything that would stick. Seal the cap of the tank, and then shake it thoroughly before pouring out the solvent and metal. You may need to rinse out the tank with more clean solvent, repeating the process until the solvent comes out clear. Simply leave the tank--cap off--in a well ventilated area for a day. The solvent will have vaporized by then, leaving you with a clean tank. Integral tanks are the kind that can't be removed from an engine, or at least removed without the use a fully equipped automotive repair garage. To empty, all the gas the tank contains must be siphoned out. It's normal for a small amount to remain in the bottom. You will need a strong magnet on a pole, a handful of iron or steel ball bearings (screws and nuts will work), a tank of compressed air with a hand-held spray gun and a gallon of rubbing alcohol. The rubbing alcohol and the ball bearings should be thrown in the tank and agitated with the compressed air gun. Since you can't shake the tank, you have to shake its contents. This should scour the interior well enough. Use the magnet to retrieve the metal ball bearings, and then siphon out the alcohol. A small amount of alcohol will remain inside, but it mixes well with gas and the engine should have no trouble burning through it.

All good ideas except the rubbing alcohol. It's 30% water. I realize it would only leave a tiny amount of water, but using something with 0% water is even better...

Tommy

30cal · Apr 13, 2015

you read that? good eyes..

AirJunky · Apr 13, 2015

You can buy the nozzle, cap & vent on Ebay or Amazon to mod any of the new cans so they work like the old ones.

CJM8515 · Apr 13, 2015

IFMJohn said:
My father seems to have found a website where they will ship old school gas cans to california. He's got like 8 in the last couple years. They are sturdy too, all metal, nice cans.

I was driving to help my cousin with his boat yesterday and saw a garage sale. I noticed there are 3 gas cans sitting out there. Stop, one is the old school plastic with yellow capped spout. They told me a dollar and I gave them 2, all the other cans were spill proof junk.

I am amassing a small collection of cans lol... New spouts can be bought on amazon that fit the pos spill proof cans, can even get them in cali under the guise of "water can spouts".

Jeremy77 · Apr 14, 2015

I've just "improvised" the locking nozzles on the last few cans that I've bought and they now work just like the old ones. There are a few different types out there but any of them should be able to "convert" with minimal tools or effort.

Jeremy77 · Apr 14, 2015

as to the OP.....like others have stated, just fill that bad boy up with gas and as long as there's no leaks, your good to go.

justme- · Apr 14, 2015

Those "water can spouts" come with different parts to fit multiple brands/types of can and even a vent that can be added if yours doesn't have one. Seems when the companies switched to making new style cans they switched to the same wolds for water containers too....

barnjunkie · Apr 14, 2015

Juast as FYI - that excerpt that I posted earlier was copied off of the internet. I would never give that much thought to an old gas can. Just rinse it out 'til you feel a warm fuzzy feeling and go with it.

kbs2244 · Apr 15, 2015

To the OP.
If you are still worried about it, all the gas "stablizers" (Sta-Bill, Sea Foam, etc) are mostly acetone.
Go to the local paint department and buy a pint, slosh it around, and pour it into your car.

rlitman · Apr 15, 2015

They most certainly are not mostly acetone.

LS6 Tommy · Apr 15, 2015

kbs2244 said:
To the OP.
If you are still worried about it, all the gas "stablizers" (Sta-Bill, Sea Foam, etc) are mostly acetone.
Go to the local paint department and buy a pint, slosh it around, and pour it into your car.

rlitman said:
They most certainly are not mostly acetone.

Sea Foam for one, is 100% petroleum...

Tommy

xyster101 · Apr 15, 2015

Get a no spill. I love mine. Doesn't leak, smell, folks day and empties fast.
No-Spill 1450 5-Gallon Poly Gas Can (CARB Compliant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W9JN4S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

lowbucktruck · Apr 15, 2015

I like the metal safety cans better than any plastic "fuel jug". I keep a funnel tied to the can for easy access.

I have both Eagle and Justrite safety cans for my small engine fuel use. Like this one: http://store.harryepstein.com/cp/CansSafety/7120100.html

NUTTSGT · Apr 16, 2015

AirJunky said:
You can buy the nozzle, cap & vent on Ebay or Amazon to mod any of the new cans so they work like the old ones.

I picked one up at Rural King two weeks ago to see if it would fit a new style plastic fuel jug. Yep, it works.

http://www.ruralking.com/ez-pour-replacement-spout-kit-10050.html?___SID=U

I have also seen them for sale in TSC.

txturbo · Apr 16, 2015

I would rinse it with acetone. It will clean, vaporize quickly and absorb any moisture that might be in there. Seafoam....haven't really found anything that it does.

kbs2244 · Apr 16, 2015

Acetone is made from propene.
Proene is a hydrocarbon.
Propene is a byproduct of oil refining
Therefore they can call it “Made from Petroleum.”

Check Wikpedia

LS6 Tommy · Apr 16, 2015

kbs2244 said:
Acetone is made from propene.
Proene is a hydrocarbon.
Propene is a byproduct of oil refining
Therefore they can call it “Made from Petroleum.”

Check Wikpedia

Wikipedia. The end all to all knowledge...

Seafoam is a blended petroleum product. It's basically an oil. Acetone is a petrochemical solvent produced from Propylene. NOT the same.

Tommy

old gas can

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