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Old Sears/Craftsman MIG welder - Replacement Torch?

iced98lx

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Hey Folks I inherited with the house an old 120v sears MIG welder with gas line and regulator (no bottle, though). It's been since highschool shop that I've welded but i have a few projects that it would be handy to have working for coming up. Outside of the obvious of getting a bottle and reading enough to understand how to get it set up the welder has an issue...

8iBfp1tl46pC1Fc6fMp6qw=w1699-h1279-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

The Tweco torch on the end is missing the feed button. I assume by looks it's a little old to find a button? The welder works on both power settings and jumping the pins in the torch advances the wire. It has a fairly recent looking spool of Lincoln wire on it so I'd suspect it's been used in the last 10 years perhaps.

5bTTKVt97g-mRbmx-Slj0Q=w1699-h1279-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

DCyhkepLdJIqlbM6R4upTQ=w1699-h1279-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
Can I replace the torch? Is a replaced torch on this machine better than a $130 harbor freight welder?

Any and all suggestions welcome, thanks guys!
 
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PBCampbell

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Unplug it from the machine and check the pins to see if it matches up with something modern. I'm not sure if tweco has changed in the last 30-40 years. I'd bet if they haven't you can find some generic brand for cheap.
 

consti2tion

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Nov 30, 2010
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509
Location
East Texas
Hey Folks I inherited with the house an old 120v sears MIG welder with gas line and regulator (no bottle, though). It's been since highschool shop that I've welded but i have a few projects that it would be handy to have working for coming up. Outside of the obvious of getting a bottle and reading enough to understand how to get it set up the welder has an issue...

8iBfp1tl46pC1Fc6fMp6qw=w1699-h1279-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

The Tweco torch on the end is missing the feed button. I assume by looks it's a little old to find a button? The welder works on both power settings and jumping the pins in the torch advances the wire. It has a fairly recent looking spool of Lincoln wire on it so I'd suspect it's been used in the last 10 years perhaps.

5bTTKVt97g-mRbmx-Slj0Q=w1699-h1279-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

DCyhkepLdJIqlbM6R4upTQ=w1699-h1279-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
Can I replace the torch? Is a replaced torch on this machine better than a $130 harbor freight welder?

Any and all suggestions welcome, thanks guys!
A quick search and there are a replacement buttons that look like they are for that welding gun/torch.


 

bdbecker

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...Is a replaced torch on this machine better than a $130 harbor freight welder?...

She'll probably be a good welder, provided there is nothing wrong with it. Comparing it to the $140 Chicago Electric Flux 125 isn't a fair comparison because that machine is only capable of running flux core wire and I don't believe there is an option to add gas later to those machines. It looks like cheapest machine in HF's lineup that can do both is $230, which is a little bigger of a machine than what you have, and also requires 240v.

I would give her a good cleaning and look-over before spending any money on the torch. Leave it unplugged for a few days to let the capacitors discharge and then take the cover off and blow everything out with compressed air. Be careful to not be too aggressive - you don't need it to be showroom clean, good enough is good enough in this case. Take a look at the components and look for any signs of damage - bulging capacitors, corrosion, loose connections, etc. If you do find something needing repair (I'd be surprised, these older machines tend to be pretty basic and reliable, but you never know), you can see if replacement parts are available, what they cost, and decide which path you want to take.

Assuming everything is good, I'd get one of those switches that @consti2tion linked and make sure the torch works (probably will given that jumping the contacts seemed to work for you). At that point, you'll have a functioning weld machine for less than $30. But you'll need to spend a little more if you want to weld with it.

Once you know the torch functions, then check the liner for any surface rust and replace if questionable. For what they cost, I'd be tempted to just replace it outright not knowing its condition or age. Same goes for the wire - if there is any surface rust on it, just scrap the roll and replace with another name brand spool (Lincoln, Hobart, ESAB, etc.). Also be sure to get a handful of contact tips, a spare diffuser, and a nozzle or two. All in, you'll probably have spent around $100 or so, but keep in mind those are consumable items that you'd need to buy regardless of what machine you have.

Regarding gas, I like using this company.


It works just like a propane exchange - you buy the bottle, and then swap out when empty. Prices are competitive with the weld shops (at least around here). The nice thing is you can swap your bottle on the weekend during retail hours, instead of the 8-5, M-F that most weld supply shops are open. It looks like they've got locations in Sioux Falls and Sioux City. The other neat thing is you can buy a small bottle to start, but if you decide you want to up-size later, you can get credit for what you spent on the smaller bottle and apply it to the larger one. The larger bottles are cheaper when it comes to cubic-foot per dollar, so if you can afford it, get the big bottle right away.

Finally, if you don't have access to metal for practicing, the JLF has pretty good prices on test plates bundles.

 
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I

iced98lx

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A quick search and there are a replacement buttons that look like they are for that welding gun/torch.



Thanks, I got one of those and it fits/functions but doesn't line up screw wise, so working that out.

She'll probably be a good welder, provided there is nothing wrong with it. ....

Thank you for the response and all the suggestions!!! MUCH appreciated. I did get the trigger replaced and cleaned out the machine. It seemed to work but the wire ended up jamming after feeding several feet. No worries there as I can pull it apart and put some new wire in as you suggested.

The part i'm not sure about is it seems to be "powered" without pulling the trigger, IE: The trigger controls only the wire feed not turning the actual voltage on/off, so even without pulling the trigger voltage is flowing and it will weld/arc if you have some wire fed or are close enough to your material. I don't recall the MIG's I've used in the past working that way...
 
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P51Mustang

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Dec 17, 2022
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Central Iowa
That looks pretty much like my first welder that I got at least 35 years ago. It was a good welder that held up well (I ran a lot of wire thru it). The only reason that I replaced it was that I started to do projects that needed more power and more adjustablity (my welder only had two power settings on it, an updated model came out about 6 months after I got mine that had a bit more power and three power settings). Mine was made by Century and was US made (I would guess that yours is also). It was nice that it ran on 110 volts (my new welder is 220). I may still have the manual on it somewhere (I would guess that you could also find the manual online as Sears was pretty good about that).

My local Theisen farm store carries gas bottles (has a deal set up with Air Gas) which as proved to be handy when I run short of gas on weekends.
 

bdbecker

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Thank you for the response and all the suggestions!!! MUCH appreciated. I did get the trigger replaced and cleaned out the machine. It seemed to work but the wire ended up jamming after feeding several feet. No worries there as I can pull it apart and put some new wire in as you suggested.

Troubleshooting the wire feeding issue...

1) Remove contact tip. Feed about 6" of wire out of the torch. Disengage the drive roller. Hold the torch as straight as possible in line with the wire feeder. Manually pull on the wire at the torch end. If it feels gritting or is hard to pull, your liner probably has rust or was kinked at some point and needs to be replaced. There will be a little resistance, but you should be able to pull the wire without too much effort.

2) Make sure you have the correct size drive roll(s) for your wire size. If they are dual size, the text for the wire size should be facing out so you can read it. Its a little counter intuitive, but you should be able to see what I'm talking about when you look at the roller.

3) Make sure your drive roll tension is set correctly. I like the wood block method. Set the tension somewhere in the middle of the range. Point the torch perpendicular to a block of wood with the contact tip about 3/8" away. When you pull the trigger, the roller should slip on the wire to not feed any wire or cause a bird's nest in the feeder. Next, feed an inch or two of wire out of the contact tip. Hold the torch at a roughly 45 degree angle to the block of wood, bending the wire over slightly so that the side of it is contacting the wood block. If the tension is set correctly, it should feed wire into a curly-cue shape. If its slipping, increase the tension slightly until it does. Re-check the slip perpendicular to the block. Sometimes you just have to pick a point somewhere in between.

The part i'm not sure about is it seems to be "powered" without pulling the trigger, IE: The trigger controls only the wire feed not turning the actual voltage on/off, so even without pulling the trigger voltage is flowing and it will weld/arc if you have some wire fed or are close enough to your material. I don't recall the MIG's I've used in the past working that way...

Is it just a little spark, or is it actually burning wire and wanting to weld? If it is just a little spark and stops after a moment, that is not unusual. My Millermatic 135 does that. If its at full voltage and trying to weld, that may also be normal as some older, hobby level machines were built like this - you'll have to do a little searching on your model to see if this is the case. Otherwise, my guess is that the contactor is probably stuck and needs to be replaced.
 

consti2tion

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East Texas
3) Make sure your drive roll tension is set correctly. I like the wood block method. Set the tension somewhere in the middle of the range. Point the torch perpendicular to a block of wood with the contact tip about 3/8" away. When you pull the trigger, the roller should slip on the wire to not feed any wire or cause a bird's nest in the feeder. Next, feed an inch or two of wire out of the contact tip. Hold the torch at a roughly 45 degree angle to the block of wood, bending the wire over slightly so that the side of it is contacting the wood block. If the tension is set correctly, it should feed wire into a curly-cue shape. If its slipping, increase the tension slightly until it does. Re-check the slip perpendicular to the block. Sometimes you just have to pick a point somewhere in between.
This is a great method that I was not aware of, I will have to do this!

Is it just a little spark, or is it actually burning wire and wanting to weld? If it is just a little spark and stops after a moment, that is not unusual. My Millermatic 135 does that. If its at full voltage and trying to weld, that may also be normal as some older, hobby level machines were built like this - you'll have to do a little searching on your model to see if this is the case. Otherwise, my guess is that the contactor is probably stuck and needs to be replaced.
My Lincoln 135 does that as well, just a small spark if you touch the torch to the ground.
 
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