Old work boxes' tabs

[Bob Smell]

Does anyone know, where to get replacement tabs, for old work electrical boxes? I've found, that if I take the tab off, and put white grease on the screw, and tab, they are easier to tighten up.

 

[b-boy]

My guess is that because they are so cheap, there's no market for spare parts. I'd just replace the whole box. You could also buy some boxes and try to see if the tabs fit your older boxes.

 

[Bob Smell]

A single gang, old work box, costs $3.35, at Home Depot.

 

[CJ7VFR]

A single gang, old work box, costs $3.35, at Home Depot.

Versus paying .25 cents for a new tab, and $4.95 to ship it to you, for a total of $5.20 if they actually sold those things separately. Your better, and cheaper off, buying a new box with the tabs, because even driving around trying to look for the tabs will costs more than $3.35 in gas.

I don't think I have ever had much success with those old work boxes with the flippy tabs.

I have been using the metal old work boxes with the "Battleship" metal folding tabs. Those seem to be a lot better to work with.

Jim

 

[b-boy]

I can't find any tabs online, but if you have amazon Prime, you can get a single gang Carlon box for $1.81 - delivered.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5FQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I've never seen spare tabs, just get a new box for a couple dollars.

Don't bother with grease, just take your drill or impact and run the screws in and back out of the tabs. Then when you put them in the wall they're easier to tighten.

 

[tre873]

Old work box is $1.03 at my local HD. Hopefully the link works.

1-Gang 14 cu. in. Old Work Box
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-14-cu-in-Old-Work-Box-B114RB/100404027

 

[CJ7VFR]

Old work box is $1.03 at my local HD. Hopefully the link works.

1-Gang 14 cu. in. Old Work Box
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-14-cu-in-Old-Work-Box-B114RB/100404027

Your link does work!

At my local Home Depot, the same box costs two cents more, making it $1.05. They have hundreds of them in stock.

Jim

 

[Zeke]

There are different grades of old work boxes. I tend to spend the money for the black ones. YMMV

 

[mike93lx]

Even if you wanted to grease them for some reaaon, why would you need to remove the tab to do so and why would that necessitate a replacement?

 

[CJ7VFR]

Even if you wanted to grease them for some reaaon, why would you need to remove the tab to do so and why would that necessitate a replacement?

I have come across a few that when tightening them up, the flippy tab does not quite flip to the proper spot it was supposed to flip to, and because you can't see it, you have no idea if it actually flipped all the way into the correct position.

Then, because it is not getting tight enough you put more force on the screw going into the tab and then you hear that dreaded "snap" as the tab cracks at the screw location. Then your hosed because you have to remove the box and replace it.

That is why I stopped using them, and went with the metal boxes with the Battleship tabs.

Jim

 

[rburke65]

I never use those plastic boxes with the plastic tabs because they are cheaply made and the tabs break off. I only use metal old work and the "Hold its" or what ever trade name you are used to. And, as far as that goes, you could the Hold its for this very situation.

 

[CJ7VFR]

I never use those plastic boxes with the plastic tabs because they are cheaply made and the tabs break off. I only use metal old work and the "Hold its" or what ever trade name you are used to. And, as far as that goes, you could the Hold its for this very situation.

The "Hold its" for the boxes are another name for the Battleship tabs that I am talking about. I learned to call them that because if you turn one on its side it looks like a battleship. They work for just about any type of box, metal or plastic. I use them on metal boxes for the strength of the box.

Jim

 

[njride]

Ive heard battleships and madison bars around here. Never have heard hold its. They work good so long as you use them right.
For the originql question, just replace the box, if the hole is too big and your on a stud, smartboxes are a good quick fix.

 

[cmandp]

Eh my house is full of those old metal boxes. I've been using the plastic boxes to replace them because they are a pain. The metal boxes I have are small making it hard to get the wire in them and clamped and it's easy to get cut.

They make the old work plastic boxes in a "heavy duty" version made out of fiber reinforced plastic that are a lot sturdier. I would suggest trying those out if the regular ones are giving you trouble.

 

[jakeo25]

I cannot believe most of the answers are about buying a new box. This is not our first rodeo, folks. Yes, We can do our own search for new boxes and can add shipping costs. If ANY of you have done electrical repair work, some gorilla used a power drill to tighten the flippers and you have buckets FULL of old work boxes that you pirated -- or you just tossed them in a landfill. If the drywall is in reasonable shape, the replacement of these flippers is MUCH easier than pulling the box and redoing all the wiring. Nothing in NEC code prevents you from doing this, and saves your customer money.

 

[mike93lx]

I cannot believe most of the answers are about buying a new box. This is not our first rodeo, folks. Yes, We can do our own search for new boxes and can add shipping costs. If ANY of you have done electrical repair work, some gorilla used a power drill to tighten the flippers and you have buckets FULL of old work boxes that you pirated -- or you just tossed them in a landfill. If the drywall is in reasonable shape, the replacement of these flippers is MUCH easier than pulling the box and redoing all the wiring. Nothing in NEC code prevents you from doing this, and saves your customer money.

Your first post is to complain about recommendations in a 3+ year old post?

Welcome!

 

[Jim greengo]

I have come across a few that when tightening them up, the flippy tab does not quite flip to the proper spot it was supposed to flip to, and because you can't see it, you have no idea if it actually flipped all the way into the correct position.

Then, because it is not getting tight enough you put more force on the screw going into the tab and then you hear that dreaded "snap" as the tab cracks at the screw location. Then your hosed because you have to remove the box and replace it.

That is why I stopped using them, and went with the metal boxes with the Battleship tabs.

Jim

When in doubt I just run the screws out as far as I can before installing the box,then run them in by hand with a screw driver so you can tell if something isnt working.
Cut in boxes are the only time I use blue boxes for anything,I use the tan allied brand boxes for anything I nail to a stud.

 

[Jim greengo]

Ive heard battleships and madison bars around here. Never have heard hold its. They work good so long as you use them right.
For the originql question, just replace the box, if the hole is too big and your on a stud, smartboxes are a good quick fix.

Plaster ears.

 

[grounded-b]

Ive heard battleships and madison bars around here. Never have heard hold its. They work good so long as you use them right.

That's funny. Here in Milwaukee, us electricians call them "Madison Hold-its"

 

[Zeke]

I cannot believe most of the answers are about buying a new box. This is not our first rodeo, folks. Yes, We can do our own search for new boxes and can add shipping costs. If ANY of you have done electrical repair work, some gorilla used a power drill to tighten the flippers and you have buckets FULL of old work boxes that you pirated -- or you just tossed them in a landfill. If the drywall is in reasonable shape, the replacement of these flippers is MUCH easier than pulling the box and redoing all the wiring. Nothing in NEC code prevents you from doing this, and saves your customer money.

The best part is when he said, "If ANY of you have done electrical repair work..."

I posted earlier in the thread but now that its back I thought of an idea. Grab a small piece of 16 or 18 ga. metal and cut a tab a little long. Start a barrel with your needle nose and then finish by wrapping it around a plastic screw anchor. Squeeze it just enough with your 9's (maybe add a touch of CA glue) and viola, new tab. You could put a 90º fold on he edge for a real pro job.

There, you've only spent 10 minutes fixing a 2 dollar part.

 

[nadogail]

I cannot believe most of the answers are about buying a new box. This is not our first rodeo, folks. Yes, We can do our own search for new boxes and can add shipping costs. If ANY of you have done electrical repair work, some gorilla used a power drill to tighten the flippers and you have buckets FULL of old work boxes that you pirated -- or you just tossed them in a landfill. If the drywall is in reasonable shape, the replacement of these flippers is MUCH easier than pulling the box and redoing all the wiring. Nothing in NEC code prevents you from doing this, and saves your customer money.

When the cost of the labor to reuse an old box exceeds the price Of a new box l don’t see a cost reduction.

 

[Mr_fixit]

I like the grey ones with the metal tabs. Blue ones **** and tabs break over time.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I don't mind the plastic blue boxes but I take my impact and quickly run the screws in and out on each tab before installing the box. Makes for a much easier time once the box is in the wall.

 

[JRC3]

I have a bunch of blue tabs in my box if you want them. I typically buy the metal tabbed boxes.

Just go buy some old fashion F clips.