Oliver 232D Table saw vs Sawstop

[Grant Gunderson]

I’m in the market for a new table saw. Been looking at getting a sawstop but a friend of a friend offered to sell me an Oliver 232d. Seems in decent enough shape but it would require me also purchasing a phase converter. Seems like a well built piece of old iron, but how precise are these old beasts? Thoughts?

 

[seber]

The Oliver was a very heavy and precise machine but you should be aware of the tilt mechanism. The blade it stationary and the table tilts. That makes angled cuts a nightmare as the work either wants to slide away from the fence or close up the cut and bind.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The Oliver was a very heavy and precise machine but you should be aware of the tilt mechanism. The blade it stationary and the table tilts. That makes angled cuts a nightmare as the work either wants to slide away from the fence or close up the cut and bind.

Thats great info. Thanks! I dont see my self doing too many belved cuts, but its nice to know the issues. The bigger issue is I can pick up a used SawStop contractor saw for 4-500 more... so debating the cost benefits of the older saw vs a newer one. The safety features of the Sawstop are nice, but not a major selling point for me.

 

[Marctrees]

For Old Arn lovers the Oliver is romantic...

But the SS for 99% of users is more practical and of course safer.

Marc

 

[ozyborn]

I will take an older well built tank like that Oliver over a Sawstop any day.

 

[rlitman]

I will take an older well built tank like that Oliver over a Sawstop any day.

The Saw Stop saws I'm familiar with are all made like tanks. Now if you were comparing against a plastic contractor saw, that would be a different story.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Been looking at getting a sawstop but a friend of a friend offered to sell me an Oliver 232d...Thoughts?

Neither. Look for a used Unisaw or Powermatic 66 in excellent condition for under $1000.

 

[nic6paul]

The Oliver was a very heavy and precise machine but you should be aware of the tilt mechanism. The blade it stationary and the table tilts. That makes angled cuts a nightmare as the work either wants to slide away from the fence or close up the cut and bind.

The table does not tilt on this model. The saw arbor tilts. I own one. I believe it is the model 32 that the table tilts.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Looked at the saw today. Its pretty damn impressive. However the blade takes FOREVER to come to a stop. Any ideas on how difficult it would be to install a brake on this thing?

 

[CJCar]

Looked at the saw today. Its pretty damn impressive. However the blade takes FOREVER to come to a stop. Any ideas on how difficult it would be to install a brake on this thing?

If you do a VFD for your phase converter, it will include breaking (ramp up / ramp down speeds).

 

[rsanter]

If you do a VFD for your phase converter, it will include breaking (ramp up / ramp down speeds).

Yes you can program a VFD for ramp up and ramp down time/speed.
That’s can be a good thing to do.
Please keep in mind that this will also put more heat into the VFD which must then go somewhere.
Keep this in mind and you may want to increase the enclosure size for the VFD espocallymif you will be turning it on and off a bunch

 

[Marctrees]

Addition of venting fan w input filter ?

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Photo of saw and asking price?

Don't forget you will want to spend approx $500 for a good fence system.. similar to the original Biesemeyer.

THEN you will have a SAW !!

But still, for 99% it is wiser to get the SS, or as said old Unisaw, PM or comparable.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

In a production shop doing repetetive cuts the blade wind down time is less of an issue.

In a home shop, or small one two man shop.. the blade stop time is much more of a hassle AND big safety hazard.

If you CAN stop it in sub 5 seconds with the VFD or whatever.. ONLY then would I seriously consider it.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Also.. It is 12" blade capacity ?

Most of the older cab saws w 10" have max depth cut of like 2 7/8" or so.

You need to check if in fact this one DOES cut deeper.... other wise the only advantage is it's massiveness.

Just some things to consider.. but still asking price and condition ?

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

It is possible it will take a 14" blade, but not be able to fully lower below table.

But more depth of cut then.

I don't know the above, but it WAS the case w SOME saws labeled as "12" back then.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

https://www.google.com/search?ei=_p........35i39j0i22i30j38j33i22i29i30.6fSbrFrc4fA

 

[Marctrees]

MEASUrE in situ full height of blade on that Oliver..

I just read below that w 12" it ONLY cuts 2 1/4" deep.. definately a game changer IF true.

NOT good.

Marc

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/24173

 

[u3b3rg33k]

In a production shop doing repetetive cuts the blade wind down time is less of an issue.

In a home shop, or small one two man shop.. the blade stop time is much more of a hassle AND big safety hazard.

If you CAN stop it in sub 5 seconds with the VFD or whatever.. ONLY then would I seriously consider it.

Marc

sawstop stops the blade RIGHT QUICK i hear

otherwise for convenience a VFD + braking resistor wouldn't hurt one bit. still fails the hot dog test.

 

[manwithtools]

It is possible it will take a 14" blade, but not be able to fully lower below table.

But more depth of cut then.

I don't know the above, but it WAS the case w SOME saws labeled as "12" back then.

Marc

What a bunch of babel....

 

[ez-duzit]

What a bunch of babel....

No bull! 7 posts in a row?

 

[Cooter Brown]

I'd love to have a saw like that Oliver. Makes my old PM66 look like a toy.

If you go to vintagemachinery.org you can download the manual for it.

 

[Marctrees]

man - Do you have anything else helpful to say ?

It advises the OP of a FACT that he should look into.

I'm just giving him a heads up to avoid surprise.

Thank YOU for going out of your way to help the OP.your kind help in this thread.



Marc

 

[Marctrees]

No bull! 7 posts in a row?

All pertinent info OP may or may not know.

Your previous post was in fact VERY good succinct info.

But OP was asking about the Oliver.

So, in case he was getting the hots for it ready to get it I figured he needed to check out a few very key points.

So sorry if I typed too many words for you.


Marc

 

[Cooter Brown]

Other things for OP to consider--are the original micrometer fence, quadrant and miter gauge included with the saw?

 

[Marctrees]

Yup.

Only thing is.. for larger panel work a 52" Bies style fence may be better I would think.

And, I don't think anyway. the Bies setup would preclude usage of the original fence if desired.. not sure though.

Marc

 

[Cooter Brown]

Only thing is.. for larger panel work a 52" Bies style fence may be better I would think.

And, I don't think anyway. the Bies setup would preclude usage of the original fence if desired.. not sure though.

Marc

A t-square fence like the Beismeyer would be much better for panel work. I think you could still use the regular micrometer fence with it. The quadrant is of course a specialized tool, and the miter gauge is not standard--the slot is much bigger than most.

The miter gauge, fence and quadrant can bring as much by themselves the saw without them will.