Olsen Spec Projects

[olsenmotorsports]

No comparison to your art work... very "ghetto leno" ... and now all my washers are backwards

Hilarious. Every time I pick up a washer now I think of this forum. Love it.

No idea what that is sorry! You doing a donk?? (lol Had to ask) or more of a cruiser

Just don’t know my older caddies that well. I am a huge fan of the new CTS-V though!

 

[inphx]

1975 Eldorado convertible i have had for decades, guess it slides to completion in 2025.

 

[zanyad]

One other feature that factory service manuals (FSM) don't include that I think would help people doing complex service procedures infrequently, is a detailed description of exactly how to uninstall something. For example, show the locations of the Christmas tree fasteners that hold a door card and where to pry or the location of hidden fasteners.

Man oh man would this have been useful when I was replacing my fog light bulbs! No training, no experience, and the only videos I found already had the clips and shields removed.

 

[zmotorsports]

Interesting ideas. I hope that one of they work out for you. I really like the idea of having an organized checklist with torque specs related to the asswbly's fasteners.

I hate when you have to jump all around because you need to go to another section of the manual to remove an assembly and then return to continue on the main task.

One thing that I do and have done my entire career to avoid having to jump around in a FSM is to do a brief "drive by" if you will. Once I know the job at hand, I browse through the FSM for the torque specs needed for the task and write them down on a pad to keep near my checklist and paperwork area. I have had coworkers tell me that this is non-value-added work and criticized me for it, however, I feel that I work faster doing the actual work and therefore easily make up the time lost locating the torque specs. I also do not like getting dirt or grease on my FSM's so having a separate pad with the specs written down also preserves my manuals as I don't have to wash hands between handling of the manuals looking for torque specs.

Every time I pick up a washer now I think of this forum. Love it.

Same here. I finally have an answer to that age old question about which direction the washer goes on, and it is more than cosmetics. I have @BORING HOP YARD and this forum to thank for that.

 

[Jgaz]

I hate when you have to jump all around because you need to go to another section of the manual to remove an assembly and then return to continue on the main task.

Yes. Without a doubt this is a pain in the ****.
i used to keep a pad of Post It notes in my tool box I would apply them as necessary to the pages covering the necessary information.

 

[Chris F]

I don't remember where I read it, but the article said that the punched side of the washer(smooth side) should face the bolt head. Reason was so that the radius left after punching would fit the radius on the underside of the bolt head, eliminating a potential failure point.

 

[zmotorsports]

I don't remember where I read it, but the article said that the punched side of the washer(smooth side) should face the bolt head. Reason was so that the radius left after punching would fit the radius on the underside of the bolt head, eliminating a potential failure point.

Personally, I would have to see the article to understand that thought process because currently @BORING HOP YARD 's comments seem to make more logical sense to me.

 

[Wiz02]

One thing that I do and have done my entire career to avoid having to jump around in a FSM is to do a brief "drive by" if you will. Once I know the job at hand, I browse through the FSM for the torque specs needed for the task and write them down on a pad to keep near my checklist and paperwork area. I have had coworkers tell me that this is non-value-added work and criticized me for it, however, I feel that I work faster doing the actual work and therefore easily make up the time lost locating the torque specs. I also do not like getting dirt or grease on my FSM's so having a separate pad with the specs written down also preserves my manuals as I don't have to wash hands between handling of the manuals looking for torque specs.
<SNIP>

One of the things that good software can do is to automate manual work arounds like you describe above.

I've written and used lots of software in my career and very few programs meet minimal functional requirements, let alone achieve the goal of major work process improvement.

A large reason why that's such a common occurrence is in addition to ridiculously short timeframes and tiny budgets is that management won't let the people implementing the project talk to the people doing the work as that temporarily decreases production, so sadly a process like you described never sees the light of day.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I don't remember where I read it, but the article said that the punched side of the washer(smooth side) should face the bolt head. Reason was so that the radius left after punching would fit the radius on the underside of the bolt head, eliminating a potential failure point.

I added it up and I put 64,623 washers in over my career with the above philosophy. Finished side up.

I’ve started over thanks to @BORING HOP YARD and am now at 236 done the right way

 

[olsenmotorsports]

.

A large reason why that's such a common occurrence is in addition to ridiculously short timeframes and tiny budgets is that management won't let the people implementing the project talk to the people doing the work as that temporarily decreases production, so sadly a process like you described never sees the light of day.

literally a weekly discussion at my work. We are always talking about “we should make this etc” and it is always in the moment when we fighting with something.

Of course when you are fighting it your behind on time naturally and have to hoof it to catch back up. So the “thing (whatever that is) doesn’t get thought of till the next time your back in the **** fighting it.

One thing we did to change that. Say it’s a wheel bearing hard to jig in the press etc. now what we do is go to eBay and buy that hub etc and send it to machine shop. Instruct them to design tooling to make it easier. Make two of everything so we have spares.

That’s the only way we have found that it actually gets done.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

One thing that I do and have done my entire career to avoid having to jump around in a FSM is to do a brief "drive by" if you will. Once I know the job at hand, I browse through the FSM for the torque specs needed for the task and write them down on a pad to keep near my checklist and paperwork area. I have had coworkers tell me that this is non-value-added work and criticized me for it, however, I feel that I work faster doing the actual work and therefore easily make up the time lost locating the torque specs. I also do not like getting dirt or grease on my FSM's so having a separate pad with the specs written down also preserves my manuals as I don't have to wash hands between handling of the manuals looking for torque specs.
.

That’s smart. Another thing that works for me. A lot of our stuff we have scanned to pdf.

Use the annotation function and leave comments on the page - works well for parts superseded, notes for additional pages to check that correlate, or codes that you have fixes for. Tie them to a work order history. Saves a lot of “remember what car that was that had that issue etc”

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Catching up on the rust bucket 964 C2….



Time to throw some camshafts in it. Not sure what you guys use but no snake oil here - just some good old redline assembly lube. I slide these always in from the back to the front. As soon as they are in I check drag on the journals to make sure it is all smooth and rotating nicely.



Next up is checking cam alignment to ensure it is inline with the intermediate shaft - The gear is shimmable from the backside (sorry this picture is post setting all that up as I forgot to take photos of setting up the fixture lol)



Here is the measurement. From the face of the gear - Shims are .5mm and there is a tolerance +- .05 IIRC - This is an important step as the chain rides on a stepped guide - Have seen where the edges of the gear get excessive wear from this being off.



All buttoned up and chain tensioner installed so I can do Cam Timing. I still do not have rockers yet (at machine shop) so that is about as far as I can go with the rotating assembly.



The guide retainers. Fragile pieces these are. Magnesium bar with shuffle pins to locate them into their magnesium housing. Yes that is right. Mag on Mag and the housing is just tapped. I just do basically finger tight plus a snug on these with a dab of orange loctite. Anything more and they just strip out. The housing is super shallow and can be time cert’d, however using this method I have never had a failure.



I busted out my vintage 1/4 drive speed handle for these bolts. Long since retired but every once in a while I pull it out to remind myself about the good old days

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Moving on with the Rust Bucket. I cant set cam timing yet as I do not have rockers, but I am not going to let that slow me down. Got the engine dressed as far as I could go.

We have found with new zinc that the best practice is a little HHS plus on threads as they are assembled. You can use any lubricant really, but we are married to HHS so that is what we use. Hose clamps are key as it keeps them lubed up as the fresh clinic tends to gall on a hose clamp much like stainless on stainless does. No idea why, but it does.



I had previously restored the intake on the bench - but still needed to replace some valves and hoses


Upper boots re done - new idle air control valve - new check valves - all new hoses - distributor rebuilt - new cap and rotor and wires etc. I know it looks like a mess but I pre lay all this stuff out even though I dont have cam timing or anything done - anything I can do to continue working while I wait on parts - no wasted time.



All new fuel lines - new pressure regulator etc - I am still waiting on the fuel pressure regulator bracket that attaches to the intake to come back from plating - but everything is installed and routed correctly. All new sensors for pressure sending are also installed.



Pretty much all that is left on this one is rockers and engine tins and buttoning up the details. 4-5 more hours of work but that is as far as I can go until the rockers come in!



Seeing the transformation is my favorite thing to do - pretty far cry from how this was just a couple of weeks ago!

 

[Wiz02]

Thanks for these photos, I haven't seen the cam chains of a 911 engine in "the flesh" in 45 years, when I added a mechanical fail safe stop to the chain tensioners of my 911, but your picture brought it all back.

Along with my dad racing out of the house screaming at me to shut her down right after I fired it up in the attached garage without the muffler as a "test". Kids !

 

[Boosted1]

Looks like fine jewelry

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Thanks for these photos, I haven't seen the cam chains of a 911 engine in "the flesh" in 45 years, when I added a mechanical fail safe stop to the chain tensioners of my 911, but your picture brought it all back.

Along with my dad racing out of the house screaming at me to shut her down right after I fired it up in the attached garage without the muffler as a "test". Kids !

Love it! Those old spring tensioners sure are finicky!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Looks like fine jewelry

Thank you very much. Doesn’t hold a candle to some of the restorations of tools and equipment I have seen on here though.

I do like to think though for a production environment we do a decent job. Hard sometimes to draw the line on good enough!

 

[Wiz02]

Thank you very much. Doesn’t hold a candle to some of the restorations of tools and equipment I have seen on here though.

I do like to think though for a production environment we do a decent job. Hard sometimes to draw the line on good enough!

I doubt that the older 911's looked as good or their engines were built to the same tolerances as your restorations when they first rolled off the assembly line in Zuffenhausen.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I doubt that the older 911's looked as good or their engines were built to the same tolerances as your restorations when they first rolled off the assembly line in Zuffenhausen.

Omg not even close! If you ever read the old FSM for old cars the process’s they used were hilarious. There were hardly even toque specs half the time (356’s mostly)

There are a few times in the fsm where it states “hit it with a block of wood” not even lying!

My customers would murder me if we did that. But it would make for hilarious tik tok footage

 

[Scuderia-F1]

Catching up on the rust bucket 964 C2….



Time to throw some camshafts in it. Not sure what you guys use but no snake oil here - just some good old redline assembly lube. I slide these always in from the back to the front. As soon as they are in I check drag on the journals to make sure it is all smooth and rotating nicely.



Next up is checking cam alignment to ensure it is inline with the intermediate shaft - The gear is shimmable from the backside (sorry this picture is post setting all that up as I forgot to take photos of setting up the fixture lol)



Here is the measurement. From the face of the gear - Shims are .5mm and there is a tolerance +- .05 IIRC - This is an important step as the chain rides on a stepped guide - Have seen where the edges of the gear get excessive wear from this being off.



All buttoned up and chain tensioner installed so I can do Cam Timing. I still do not have rockers yet (at machine shop) so that is about as far as I can go with the rotating assembly.



The guide retainers. Fragile pieces these are. Magnesium bar with shuffle pins to locate them into their magnesium housing. Yes that is right. Mag on Mag and the housing is just tapped. I just do basically finger tight plus a snug on these with a dab of orange loctite. Anything more and they just strip out. The housing is super shallow and can be time cert’d, however using this method I have never had a failure.



I busted out my vintage 1/4 drive speed handle for these bolts. Long since retired but every once in a while I pull it out to remind myself about the good old days

That 1/4" speeder is SWEEEEET!

 

[zmotorsports]

Catching up on the rust bucket 964 C2….



Time to throw some camshafts in it. Not sure what you guys use but no snake oil here - just some good old redline assembly lube. I slide these always in from the back to the front. As soon as they are in I check drag on the journals to make sure it is all smooth and rotating nicely.



Next up is checking cam alignment to ensure it is inline with the intermediate shaft - The gear is shimmable from the backside (sorry this picture is post setting all that up as I forgot to take photos of setting up the fixture lol)



Here is the measurement. From the face of the gear - Shims are .5mm and there is a tolerance +- .05 IIRC - This is an important step as the chain rides on a stepped guide - Have seen where the edges of the gear get excessive wear from this being off.



All buttoned up and chain tensioner installed so I can do Cam Timing. I still do not have rockers yet (at machine shop) so that is about as far as I can go with the rotating assembly.



The guide retainers. Fragile pieces these are. Magnesium bar with shuffle pins to locate them into their magnesium housing. Yes that is right. Mag on Mag and the housing is just tapped. I just do basically finger tight plus a snug on these with a dab of orange loctite. Anything more and they just strip out. The housing is super shallow and can be time cert’d, however using this method I have never had a failure.



I busted out my vintage 1/4 drive speed handle for these bolts. Long since retired but every once in a while I pull it out to remind myself about the good old days

Excellent work as always Tim. You mentioned assembly lube. I've used the Redline as well but recently been using the green Lucas stuff plus their grease in the small tub for assembly. I have also used Competition Cams stuff in the past in their squeeze bottle and lately shifted to Driven's Assembly Lube and really like that. I still use CMD's Press Lube on old style flat tappet stuff.

Nice to see someone else still use speeders. I use my old 3/8" Snap-on speeder a lot still, but I don't use my 1/4" one quite as much as I used to. I like your red screwdriver handle on your 1/4" speeder. Mine is the old flat/oval style that is black, but with the old script on it. My 3/8" one just has the old chrome style handle, but I still use my speeders. Glad to see I'm not alone.

 

[Dodgepu360]

I'm really enjoy this tread, its full of great tech tips and I really appreciate you sharing your business insights.
I'm a mechanical engine and a huge part of my job is finding better ways to do the things we do.

Now I have a question. You mentioned installing the cams from back to front. Which way is the front?
Usually the back of the engine bolts to the transmission but the transmission is in front of the engine in a 911. So does that make the back the front and the front the back?

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Excellent work as always Tim. You mentioned assembly lube. I've used the Redline as well but recently been using the green Lucas stuff plus their grease in the small tub for assembly. I have also used Competition Cams stuff in the past in their squeeze bottle and lately shifted to Driven's Assembly Lube and really like that. I still use CMD's Press Lube on old style flat tappet stuff.

Nice to see someone else still use speeders. I use my old 3/8" Snap-on speeder a lot still, but I don't use my 1/4" one quite as much as I used to. I like your red screwdriver handle on your 1/4" speeder. Mine is the old flat/oval style that is black, but with the old script on it. My 3/8" one just has the old chrome style handle, but I still use my speeders. Glad to see I'm not alone.

Those are all great products as well! I always have a hard time having the lube conversation with people as people are about as opinionated on it as they are on politics!

I haven't tried the Comp Cams stuff - I should. We have a truck that comes by and brings all the chemicals I will ask him about that. CMD press lube is great. I Use that on wheel bearings pressing them in.

I gotta be honest I love the old tools, just don't use them anymore really. The newer stuff is really that good. I just have a hard time letting them go and getting rid of them.

I have a little bit of the old school hard black handled old logo things, couple of them I grabbed from an old timer who was retiring. Wasnt on the truck when I was buying

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I'm really enjoy this tread, its full of great tech tips and I really appreciate you sharing your business insights.
I'm a mechanical engine and a huge part of my job is finding better ways to do the things we do.

Now I have a question. You mentioned installing the cams from back to front. Which way is the front?
Usually the back of the engine bolts to the transmission but the transmission is in front of the engine in a 911. So does that make the back the front and the front the back?

Thats a great question. The front of the engine would be traditional where the fans and pulley are - which is technically the back as the engine sits backwards in the car. So now I am confused too

 

[LXCam]

Thats a great question. The front of the engine would be traditional where the fans and pulley are - which is technically the back as the engine sits backwards in the car. So now I am confused too

Oh fn lovely, another which way do you install a washer question

The next thing ya know we’ll all find out we’ve been installing engines backwards all these years

 

[zmotorsports]

Those are all great products as well! I always have a hard time having the lube conversation with people as people are about as opinionated on it as they are on politics!

I haven't tried the Comp Cams stuff - I should. We have a truck that comes by and brings all the chemicals I will ask him about that. CMD press lube is great. I Use that on wheel bearings pressing them in.

I gotta be honest I love the old tools, just don't use them anymore really. The newer stuff is really that good. I just have a hard time letting them go and getting rid of them.

I have a little bit of the old school hard black handled old logo things, couple of them I grabbed from an old timer who was retiring. Wasnt on the truck when I was buying

I completely agree about the lube conversations Tim. I had that EXACT conversation with the gentleman who dropped of the latest job last night in fact. He asked if he could look my chemical shelf over and asked what I liked, I explained it depended on the task at hand, but I definitely had favorites and that I had tried a lot of different things over the past nearly 40 years, some of which I still use and some I ended up going back to what I was using previously.

I have mixed emotions on trying new things as one can in fact find things that are better, but one can also just pour a lot of money down a bottomless pit searching, and ultimately, not come away with anything any better.

Personally, I wouldn't waste your time or money trying the Comp Cams lube. It's a nice viscous assembly lube and I used it for quite a few years on the upper valve train components along with Lubriplate #105 on bearings. That was my "go-to" combination for well over a decade building my engines as well as client's engines, circa mid-80's through late 90's. However, my current opinion is that the Lucas assembly lube does a better job at both. I have wanted to try the Redline as I have heard good things, however, I have also heard people that have used both tell me that the Lucas and Redline are comparable, so I think at this point I'll just stick with what I've been, until I'm convinced to sway that is.

Most of my tools are old, even though they were purchased new, so I guess that's what I will continue to use.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Had a pretty basic dia today. Cayenne came in with a CEL on the dash. It was misfiring like crazy in the drive just idling.



Here are the DME codes. See this all the time. But how do we verify what is causing the misfire? The sporadic codes are nothing to worry about obviously, and the P21A100 could be a dead hole but only one way to find out really.



Grabbed the scope with a paddle probe and grabbed waveform off cylinder one to establish a known good. If we were using an amp clamp there were be a better waveform to actually analyze. But the paddles are great quick grabs if you dont want to waste time looking up wiring diagrams etc.



Here is cylinder 6 - No current ramp - super noisy - and only .2 KV. Needs plugs and coils - It tool longer to grab the scope and probes from the other side of the shop than it did to pinpoint and diagnose.

Now granted this is a known issue on these VW/Audi?Porsche 6 Cylinders as they eat coils. But it is nice to verify what you need to fix efficiently and on the fly.

If you wanted to get more in depth you could grab the amp clamp and probe the power wire to the coil so you could see the ramp. That would tell you for sure whether it is a plug or a coil. But we only sell them together.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Oh fn lovely, another which way do you install a washer question

The next thing ya know we’ll all find out we’ve been installing engines backwards all these years

Literally burst out laughing when I read this

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I completely agree about the lube conversations Tim. I had that EXACT conversation with the gentleman who dropped of the latest job last night in fact. He asked if he could look my chemical shelf over and asked what I liked, I explained it depended on the task at hand, but I definitely had favorites and that I had tried a lot of different things over the past nearly 40 years, some of which I still use and some I ended up going back to what I was using previously.

I have mixed emotions on trying new things as one can in fact find things that are better, but one can also just pour a lot of money down a bottomless pit searching, and ultimately, not come away with anything any better.

Personally, I wouldn't waste your time or money trying the Comp Cams lube. It's a nice viscous assembly lube and I used it for quite a few years on the upper valve train components along with Lubriplate #105 on bearings. That was my "go-to" combination for well over a decade building my engines as well as client's engines, circa mid-80's through late 90's. However, my current opinion is that the Lucas assembly lube does a better job at both. I have wanted to try the Redline as I have heard good things, however, I have also heard people that have used both tell me that the Lucas and Redline are comparable, so I think at this point I'll just stick with what I've been, until I'm convinced to sway that is.

Most of my tools are old, even though they were purchased new, so I guess that's what I will continue to use.

That’s great feedback thank you.

TBH most everything we use is from a company called Wurth. It isn’t the cheapest. I would say it is the snap-on of consumables, but they have everything. And their service is second to none IMHO. Only issue with Wurth is it is wholesale only. That ***** for a lot of home shop guys.

Brands I avoid: Permatex, fastenal, Dorman

 

[zmotorsports]

TBH most everything we use is from a company called Wurth. It isn’t the cheapest. I would say it is the snap-on of consumables, but they have everything. And their service is second to none IMHO. Only issue with Wurth is it is wholesale only. That ***** for a lot of home shop guys.

Brands I avoid: Permatex, fastenal, Dorman

I had only heard of Wurth a few times until you started this thread.

That being said, I agree with you on the avoidance list, with the exception of Permatex's anti-seize. I have actually had really good results with that product over the past nearly 40 years, but for most other thread locking and sealing purposes I use Henkel products. I also despise Dorman and have quit using Fastenal all together about 8 years or so ago. We used them a lot in the industrial maintenance world for quite a few years, but their quality started dropping and then their prices went through the roof almost overnight. No thanks, not for me.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

I had only heard of Wurth a few times until you started this thread.

That being said, I agree with you on the avoidance list, with the exception of Permatex's anti-seize. I have actually had really good results with that product over the past nearly 40 years, but for most other thread locking and sealing purposes I use Henkel products. I also despise Dorman and have quit using Fastenal all together about 8 years or so ago. We used them a lot in the industrial maintenance world for quite a few years, but their quality started dropping and then their prices went through the roof almost overnight. No thanks, not for me.

Dorman and Permatex are trash. If you want to use those brands on your concourse restoration of your Yugo 65 that is fine as they will give you just about as many issues as the car will.

Sorry to ruffle feathers lol.

 

[scooby074]

That’s great feedback thank you.

TBH most everything we use is from a company called Wurth. It isn’t the cheapest. I would say it is the snap-on of consumables, but they have everything. And their service is second to none IMHO. Only issue with Wurth is it is wholesale only. That ***** for a lot of home shop guys.

Brands I avoid: Permatex, fastenal, Dorman

Wurth is very good. Their HHS(?) spray is one of my faves. Thin like water to penetrate then dries to a sticky lube.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Wurth is very good. Their HHS(?) spray is one of my faves. Thin like water to penetrate then dries to a sticky lube.

I would put HHS in my coffee its that good!

 

[zmotorsports]

Dorman and Permatex are trash. If you want to use those brands on your concourse restoration of your Yugo 65 that is fine as they will give you just about as many issues as the car will.

Sorry to ruffle feathers lol.

Not ruffling my feathers Tim, I'll continue to use what I've found works. Not everyone uses the same things nor have the same requirements.

I've experimented with quite a few brands of anti-seize over the years and the best one I've found is the Permatex 80078 for general purpose use. In the warehouse industry with equipment going from ambient to freezer boxes (-20 degrees F) then back to ambient again several times in a 24-hour period, we have extreme corrosion issues to contend with.

When I first started my career at the company I work for there was nothing used previously on the equipment from the factory, nor the previous mechanics and it was not uncommon to spend half of a shift just to remove a frozen axle shaft.

A co-worker and myself started experimenting with various chemicals and processes and after working our way through approximately 300 pieces of MHE over the course of nearly a year, we developed the SOP that is still in use today, which includes the used of the Permatex 80078. Now our mechanics can push the axle shafts out of the bearings and supports by hand, clean, re-lube and reinstall in about 15-minutes during a routine PM.

Some of the other anti-seizes that we experimented with would wipe off so easily it was almost a waste of time to apply any. The Permatex one has very distinct staying power and takes a bit of effort to remove during cleaning.

Granted, that is about the only product from Permatex that I use but my usage and needs may be quite a bit different than your specialty work. Not sure I'd even use anti-seize on those beautiful restorations that you do that will more than likely never see the harsh environments again.

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Not ruffling my feathers Tim, I'll continue to use what I've found works. Not everyone uses the same things nor have the same requirements.

I've experimented with quite a few brands of anti-seize over the years and the best one I've found is the Permatex 80078 for general purpose use. In the warehouse industry with equipment going from ambient to freezer boxes (-20 degrees F) then back to ambient again several times in a 24-hour period, we have extreme corrosion issues to contend with.

When I first started my career at the company I work for there was nothing used previously on the equipment from the factory, nor the previous mechanics and it was not uncommon to spend half of a shift just to remove a frozen axle shaft.

A co-worker and myself started experimenting with various chemicals and processes and after working our way through approximately 300 pieces of MHE over the course of nearly a year, we developed the SOP that is still in use today, which includes the used of the Permatex 80078. Now our mechanics can push the axle shafts out of the bearings and supports by hand, clean, re-lube and reinstall in about 15-minutes during a routine PM.

Some of the other anti-seizes that we experimented with would wipe off so easily it was almost a waste of time to apply any. The Permatex one has very distinct staying power and takes a bit of effort to remove during cleaning.

Granted, that is about the only product from Permatex that I use but my usage and needs may be quite a bit different than your specialty work. Not sure I'd even use anti-seize on those beautiful restorations that you do that will more than likely never see the harsh environments again.

We actually do use It but sparingly. Centerlock wheels, axle shafts like you mentioned, as well as bushings for throttle shafts etc. It isn’t a daily use for sure! We have copper, ceramic, nickel for various applications.

Probably our most used lubes are HHS for moving parts, and true glide for o rings and anything rubber. Oh and lots and lots of Dielectric grease!

God I hate anti sieze though lol. I am a bit of a snob when it comes to getting dirty. I usually stay pretty clean. However get me around some anti sieze and I turn into a mess! Ends up all over me and I swear it never comes off lol.

Lubes and hardware are two of my favorite topics!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Picking back up the 964 c2 rust bucket. Chassis is painted! Should have it back from paint on the 20th. And the 993 Cab is also painted. That car should be back in the workshop on the 9th.

964 C2 Light Resto Playlist

Here is a link to the videos on the 964 if anyone is interested in following along! Obviously with the release schedule with our marketing department these videos are pretty delayed from what you guys see here.

Love to hear some feedback!

 

[Boosted1]

Just watched first video and parts of second thus far.
I think they are well done. Very well spoken presenter in first video.
Second video music for me could be turned down a bit. Like the parts where you are talking better.

 

[slowtwitch73]

^^^ nobody has ever said 'I wish this video had music' or 'I wish the music was louder'......

 

[Chris F]

Lubes and hardware are two of my favorite topics!

Not a conversation to walk into the middle of!

 

[olsenmotorsports]

Just watched first video and parts of second thus far.
I think they are well done. Very well spoken presenter in first video.
Second video music for me could be turned down a bit. Like the parts where you are talking better.

Thank you very much for the feedback! I will pass this along to my marketing director!

Episode 3 is much better IMHO. We try to get it perfect but perfect is always subjective to our internal ideas. Feedback is vital to success! I value this so thank you

If I could ask what would you like to see more of content wise?

^^^ nobody has ever said 'I wish this video had music' or 'I wish the music was louder'......

This is true thank you. Have to have some filler though for the B roll IMHO. I could be wrong

If I could ask what would you like to see more of content wise?