GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
File to cut masking tape, will have to remember that. Looking forward to this coming together!
One year later 40'x80'
- Thread starter fnieto
- Start date
AuroraSC
Well-known member
Excellent shop! Very jealous of the fit and finish as well as the tooling and craftsmanship. Keep it up!
rmack898
Well-known member
Paco and Mike,
I too bought the same tap wrench from my SO industrial rep in 1990 and it is still my "go to' tap wrench. I'm pretty it was made in Germany.
Nice work on the brake Paco.
I too bought the same tap wrench from my SO industrial rep in 1990 and it is still my "go to' tap wrench. I'm pretty it was made in Germany.
Nice work on the brake Paco.
A small nimble fine file does the trick every time.
Ordered new ball oilers today and picked up new hardware for all the fingers (Allen head socket cap screws).
Still need to press out the pivot block bushings. I'll need to make another tool for that and come up with a way to press in the new ones. I have a design in mind using a bottle jack and the fork lift as an anchor.
Then the paint will follow.
Thanks for stopping in.
Paco
Thank mac,
You same tap wrench made in Germany. I really like the fine ratcheting, a real quality tool. The B&P brake is coming along.
I just got the call from the trucking co. transporting the new lathe as I was typing your reply. It should arrive via flatbed on Thursday morning/afternoon. This will slow down the progress on the brake once it arrives as I will need to outfit the new machine with LED's, DRO, tach, and new VFD control system to include a carriage stop proximity sensor. I also have to cut new chuck backplates for a 5C scroll chuck and the Bison 4J combo chuck. The new machine uses a D1-6 spindle nose. Probably a month worth of work before I set it in place and running. The good news is I still have the 1440 in service so any lathe work won't be hampered.
Thanks for the visit mac.
Paco
Caparris
Well-known member
Very cool.
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Nice. We had cloud cover so I missed it, even though I was up during the peak of the eclipse.
Boosted1
Well-known member
Wow this is a nice thread full of cool machines and work projects.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed. Love following along on Paco's work which is second to none.
Yesterday a friend called asking for help. He was trying to break free the harmonic balancer (HB) bolt on his 1990 Toyota 22RE 4-runner with no luck.
I was working on a press tool for the last of the bushings on the main body of the brake when he arrived so more on that latter.
Being a land cruiser guy, he felt I could help get that bolt loose to replace the leaking front seal and oil pump O-ring. I put him in the automotive bay to prep access to the stubborn bolt while I continued machining the press tool.
Once he got the radiator pulled as well as the fan, and belts, I tried everything I could think of including starter bump with the breaker bar resting against the passengers frame (coil wire removed), heat, big *** impact with 130 PSI. Nothing was working as the crank wanted to rotate CCW even with the transition in gear and E-brake set. Then I saw the solution in my minds eye!. I had some 1/8" aircraft cable and three cable clamps. We lashed the balancer to the passengers frame rail and used a 4' cheater bar on the 1/2" breaker bar. I thought the 18mm bolt had twisted, but it broke loose!
The cable was threaded through the HB and around the frame PS frame rail three times then two clamps secures the three cables from the bottom and one clamp secured the cables from the top.
Here are some photos of the set up that worked well. I wanted to share them as I know someone will find this solution useful.
fist photo is a top view, the last two are looking from the bottom. You can see how the cable was threaded preventing the CCW rotation of the crank.
New seals went on without drama and he's back on the road.
I would be interested to learn any other tricks you gentlemen might have to share for the same situation.
Thanks for looking.
I was working on a press tool for the last of the bushings on the main body of the brake when he arrived so more on that latter.
Being a land cruiser guy, he felt I could help get that bolt loose to replace the leaking front seal and oil pump O-ring. I put him in the automotive bay to prep access to the stubborn bolt while I continued machining the press tool.
Once he got the radiator pulled as well as the fan, and belts, I tried everything I could think of including starter bump with the breaker bar resting against the passengers frame (coil wire removed), heat, big *** impact with 130 PSI. Nothing was working as the crank wanted to rotate CCW even with the transition in gear and E-brake set. Then I saw the solution in my minds eye!. I had some 1/8" aircraft cable and three cable clamps. We lashed the balancer to the passengers frame rail and used a 4' cheater bar on the 1/2" breaker bar. I thought the 18mm bolt had twisted, but it broke loose!
The cable was threaded through the HB and around the frame PS frame rail three times then two clamps secures the three cables from the bottom and one clamp secured the cables from the top.
Here are some photos of the set up that worked well. I wanted to share them as I know someone will find this solution useful.
fist photo is a top view, the last two are looking from the bottom. You can see how the cable was threaded preventing the CCW rotation of the crank.
New seals went on without drama and he's back on the road.
I would be interested to learn any other tricks you gentlemen might have to share for the same situation.
Thanks for looking.
Attachments
Caparris
Well-known member
That’s pretty crazy. I came across one on a 550i BMW one time that was like that. Engine was out though, so I rigged up a way to stop the engine from rotating and I literally had to hang from the end of 6’ of black iron pipe to get it to break loose. I’m sure glad I wasn’t trying it in the car. It sounded like a small gun firing when it broke loose. I was sure I had snapped the head off but nope, it came right out.
It’s amazing to me any bolt can handle that kind of force
It’s amazing to me any bolt can handle that kind of force
Back on the last pressing tool for the brake. I used a 2" piece of CR round bar and turned two steps. The fist is 1.5" long and fits inside the bushings and will be a guide for a straight setup. The second step is 3.5" long and is .065" smaller than the OD of the said bushings allowing it to pass through the bore. These bushings are in the main body of the brake so they need to be removed/installed in place. A bottle jack will do the work while anchored to the fork lift.
Indicated the piece on a Bison four J independent/scroll combination chuck. I love this chuck. Once the piece is indicated in, the piece can be removed using the scroll feature and re-chucked maintaining near zero TIR. The carbide inert cut at 750RPM with a feed rate of .009/rev (first pass) with one continuos chip at a DOC of .040" (dry) with a beautiful finish.
The bottle jack end was bored to match the shaft maintaining a straight setup.
I still need to make a Jack jig that will clamp onto the forks. The bushings are 3.5" long so a straight lined up set up is paramount. I did end up changing the feed rate to allow the chip breaker to prevent the long razor blade chip.
That first chip measured 15'-6", a dangerous condition but man was that finish nice. I was weird the way is rolled off the chip pan and onto the floor like a screw, but I didn't want to take another chance with it getting caught resulting in a potential injury.
Stay safe, and thanks for stopping in.
Paco
Indicated the piece on a Bison four J independent/scroll combination chuck. I love this chuck. Once the piece is indicated in, the piece can be removed using the scroll feature and re-chucked maintaining near zero TIR. The carbide inert cut at 750RPM with a feed rate of .009/rev (first pass) with one continuos chip at a DOC of .040" (dry) with a beautiful finish.
The bottle jack end was bored to match the shaft maintaining a straight setup.
I still need to make a Jack jig that will clamp onto the forks. The bushings are 3.5" long so a straight lined up set up is paramount. I did end up changing the feed rate to allow the chip breaker to prevent the long razor blade chip.
That first chip measured 15'-6", a dangerous condition but man was that finish nice. I was weird the way is rolled off the chip pan and onto the floor like a screw, but I didn't want to take another chance with it getting caught resulting in a potential injury.
Stay safe, and thanks for stopping in.
Paco
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GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Nice work. Can't wait to get my lathe up and running.
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Can you pretend fight with the family and workers? Maybe wear an outlandish outfit? I would like to see a cable network film a reality show out of that space. Seriously!
Nice digs. Better toys.
Nice digs. Better toys.
Haha, nice try but NO!!!!!!!! I cant believe some of the stuff they do on those silly shows
.
Although todays delivery of the new machine would have made interesting viewing. The trucker was an idiot who used a cheap HF tarp to cover the $15K machine and had his S-hook at the corners resulting in heavy paint damage.
Machine is going back to ACRA, I will be delivering it and picking up the replacement machine. I was pretty f**king angry someone could be so stupid and careless with someone else's property.
The machine is a beast tho.
.Although todays delivery of the new machine would have made interesting viewing. The trucker was an idiot who used a cheap HF tarp to cover the $15K machine and had his S-hook at the corners resulting in heavy paint damage.
Machine is going back to ACRA, I will be delivering it and picking up the replacement machine. I was pretty f**king angry someone could be so stupid and careless with someone else's property.
The machine is a beast tho.
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sjvicker
Well-known member
I just battled a 1JZ crank bolt and I didn't have the luxury of still having the engine in the car. I tried a 3/8" battery impact wrench, 1/2" breaker bar, the 700ftlb kobalt 1/2" impact and eventually tried a 3/4" drive impact from work. None worked. Eventually I took a mapp gas torch and a BBQ grill thermometer and heated the middle of the bolt head. With the impact and 160deg reading on the head the bolt came right out.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
I too tried heating using a hand held torch with no luck. Someone had been in there at some point in time. The sealing surface of the HB had a speedy sleeve and the 18mm bolt was less than pristine before I started.
Glad it worked for you. Engine out makes it a whole lot more challenging.
Glad it worked for you. Engine out makes it a whole lot more challenging.
jbmatth
Well-known member
For the HB bolt I've used a section of an old ring gear to make a tool that would hold the flywheel in place and bolted to some of the trans mount bolts. Worked like a charm but still took everything I had and 4.5' of 3/4" breaker bar.
Paco, the work you do is very impressive and I love following along. I agree on the lathe, I'd be very upset if a new piece of equipment arrived to my house like that.
JB
Paco, the work you do is very impressive and I love following along. I agree on the lathe, I'd be very upset if a new piece of equipment arrived to my house like that.
JB
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That ***** about the lathe Paco. I feel for ya bud. Nothing worse that having to look at damage because of someone else's stupidity or ignorance. It's bad enough when you do something yourself but when you pay for a quality machine and it shows up less than that it is very frustrating.
I remember when my mill showed up lying on its side in the back of the truck and how frustrated I was. I guess if there is a bright side, it is at least you already have a lathe so you won't be without one.
Hope you get everything sorted out my friend.
I remember when my mill showed up lying on its side in the back of the truck and how frustrated I was. I guess if there is a bright side, it is at least you already have a lathe so you won't be without one.
Hope you get everything sorted out my friend.
Mike,
You would have been proud of me for not ripping that guy a new one. I remained calm on the outside but man was I pissed. It passed shortly after talking with Tom from Acra. Apparently this machine is 1 of 100 he had shipped in so looking forward to perusing warehouse when I drop this off and load the new machine.
A mill on its side looks horrible in my minds eye. Yes my Birmingham will remain in service. I have really grown to love that machine. After running it for seventeen years, I know all the sweet spots for different operations and materials.
Hows the overflow tank coming along?
Take care brother,
Paco
Thank you sir,
Driving close to 900 miles round trip in one day is brutal when hauling, but it should workout. Tomorrow I'll be re-packig the trailer axel bearings and going over the Duramax in preparation. I plan on taking a shift off on the 8th to get er done.
Thanks for the well wishes!
Stay strong,
Paco
Yesterday while waiting for the machines arrival, I built the press tool jack backer plate.
It's basically 1/4" x 4" x 4" angle iron with a single gusset in the center. It also has four threaded 5/16-18 hole to serve as jack screws for fine adjustment. The entire jig clamp onto the end of the forks. With the side shift,tilt as well as up/down, I should be able to mach the center line for a straight press. I did try the setup but the heavy machine was being pushed with every pump of the bottle jack. I ran out of time and back on shift today but my next move is to set the machine next to a large bollard with a 4"x4" wood post between the machine and the "anchor". I don't think the bollard will deflect any, but a magnetic torpedo level should show any movement.
The fourth photo shows the setup, notice the top jackscrews used to fine tune alignment. A piece of flat bar will be used to reduce the point load on the jacks flange. The 5th photo shows the two levels used to maintain a center line for pressing, however the machine was moving with every pump of the bottle jack.
The photo go the bollard that will be used to secure the end of the press. Its 36" deep with about 700 pound of concrete and filled to the top. The apron was poured three months after setting the bollards and tied in with #4 rebar. I think this will work well. The last option (plan C) would be to drill/tap the press tool and use a section of 3/4" all thread and a section of pipe larger than the OD of the bushing with a plate/nut welded on the end of the said pipe to be used as a screw jack from the inside.
It's basically 1/4" x 4" x 4" angle iron with a single gusset in the center. It also has four threaded 5/16-18 hole to serve as jack screws for fine adjustment. The entire jig clamp onto the end of the forks. With the side shift,tilt as well as up/down, I should be able to mach the center line for a straight press. I did try the setup but the heavy machine was being pushed with every pump of the bottle jack. I ran out of time and back on shift today but my next move is to set the machine next to a large bollard with a 4"x4" wood post between the machine and the "anchor". I don't think the bollard will deflect any, but a magnetic torpedo level should show any movement.
The fourth photo shows the setup, notice the top jackscrews used to fine tune alignment. A piece of flat bar will be used to reduce the point load on the jacks flange. The 5th photo shows the two levels used to maintain a center line for pressing, however the machine was moving with every pump of the bottle jack.
The photo go the bollard that will be used to secure the end of the press. Its 36" deep with about 700 pound of concrete and filled to the top. The apron was poured three months after setting the bollards and tied in with #4 rebar. I think this will work well. The last option (plan C) would be to drill/tap the press tool and use a section of 3/4" all thread and a section of pipe larger than the OD of the bushing with a plate/nut welded on the end of the said pipe to be used as a screw jack from the inside.
Attachments
GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Awesome execution. Are the c-clamps enough to hold it in place when pressing those bushings in? They must not take a lot of force.
Thanks GLTHFJ60,
Thats a possibility, but the forks taper and get thicker towards the rear so they should in theory get tighter. Otherwise, I can cut two 2x4's and block between the rear of the forks and the jack back plate jig.
We shall see when the time comes.
Enjoy your day,
Paco
Thats a possibility, but the forks taper and get thicker towards the rear so they should in theory get tighter. Otherwise, I can cut two 2x4's and block between the rear of the forks and the jack back plate jig.
We shall see when the time comes.
Enjoy your day,
Paco
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So just out of curiosity, are you planning to keep the Birmingham as well? For some reason I thought you would sell it once the Acra arrived but maybe I just assumed that.
As for the surge tank, I hope to finish it up tomorrow. I haven't had time in the shop this week do to work issues. Today is our fiscal end of year for 2017 and it has been a hell of a week trying to close out projects and what not.
Thanks for asking.
Hey Mike,
The plan was to sell the Birmingham and was asking $5k with original chucks and tooling, but I never advertised to the public, only friends as I don't want riff-raff type dudes in my shop. No bites, so I will detail it, service it,and crate it up to give to my son as a house/shop warming present when he buys his first home. He likes working with his hands as well and will appreciate the machine. It's a great machine but doesn't compare to the new machine as I have gotten into heavier machining projects. The new machine can still preform small work as well so its a good size for my needs.
I understand the panic that accompanies the end of fiscal years, companies tend to get their ******* in a wad during this time. One of the reasons I purchased this machine last December was based on not only a 10% price increase set for the new year, but the tax opportunities for 2017. I'm sure you'll get it done very soon as you seldom relax off your feet. We share the same relaxation therapy technique, building things hehehe.
Keep on keeping on Mike.
The plan was to sell the Birmingham and was asking $5k with original chucks and tooling, but I never advertised to the public, only friends as I don't want riff-raff type dudes in my shop. No bites, so I will detail it, service it,and crate it up to give to my son as a house/shop warming present when he buys his first home. He likes working with his hands as well and will appreciate the machine. It's a great machine but doesn't compare to the new machine as I have gotten into heavier machining projects. The new machine can still preform small work as well so its a good size for my needs.
I understand the panic that accompanies the end of fiscal years, companies tend to get their ******* in a wad during this time. One of the reasons I purchased this machine last December was based on not only a 10% price increase set for the new year, but the tax opportunities for 2017. I'm sure you'll get it done very soon as you seldom relax off your feet. We share the same relaxation therapy technique, building things hehehe.
Keep on keeping on Mike.
Spent yesterday readying the trailer for the 900 mile redeye from Tucson to Ranch Cucamonga (RC) and back. I will be leaving on the 8th and I'm the middle of my tour so off every other day this week. I re-packed the bearings, swapped the four tires from the dump trailer (brand new) and turned a tool for re-installation of the hub dust covers. These thin covers always get damaged during install. Not anymore! I also lubed the jack and checked the lights. I will depart on the 8th at 03:00 arrive in RC around 11:00, hopefully be back on the road by 13:00 and finally arrive home between 21-22:00. At least I'll know the condition of the lathe during the journey.
Used the Hyster bumper jack
Working today but off tomorrow so Ill go over the tow vehicle then.
Enjoy the game today fellas, Ill be in the dorm reading or surfing the forum.
Paco
Used the Hyster bumper jack
Working today but off tomorrow so Ill go over the tow vehicle then.
Enjoy the game today fellas, Ill be in the dorm reading or surfing the forum.
Paco
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Boosted1
Well-known member
Between you and ZMotorsports threads, makes me want to get a lathe.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great job Paco. I got a chuckle out of your hub cap driver, I made one about 15 years ago when I was working on a lot of snowmobile, ATV and race trailers for people. Mine is much smaller in diameter though.
Looks like you’re trying to wear that lathe out before the new one is set up. [emoji12]
Looks like you’re trying to wear that lathe out before the new one is set up. [emoji12]
