Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice work Paco! That jig slides effortlessly. 
One year later 40'x80'
- Thread starter fnieto
- Start date
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beautiful work on the chuck jig Paco.
Work of art right there.
Work of art right there.
rmack898
Well-known member
Nice job Paco, that will go on my to-do list once the new shop is all set up.
matt_i
Well-known member
That is a really great design, I have never thought of using that material but it makes perfect sense! I have a 15" chuck, D1-6 somewhere (not used often) and that thing is silly heavy.
Maybe time for a jib crane or a back-to-back unistrut monorail over the lathe
I got & cut down this one for my weld area and its additive, now I'm preparing one for the middle of this shop and could see another one for my lathe and mill...
It claims only 125 lbs via official sticker but I find the dimensions identical with those with capacity of 250#...
Apologize in advance for posting a picture into your thread....I've never figured out if that's bad internet etiquette or not, my reason is just to illustrate the point rather than typing a bunch of words....but would gladly take it down if anyone sees it as an issue too.
Maybe time for a jib crane or a back-to-back unistrut monorail over the lathe
I got & cut down this one for my weld area and its additive, now I'm preparing one for the middle of this shop and could see another one for my lathe and mill...
It claims only 125 lbs via official sticker but I find the dimensions identical with those with capacity of 250#...
Apologize in advance for posting a picture into your thread....I've never figured out if that's bad internet etiquette or not, my reason is just to illustrate the point rather than typing a bunch of words....but would gladly take it down if anyone sees it as an issue too.
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Mamps66
Active member
Love the lighting! Looks bright
That is a really great design, I have never thought of using that material but it makes perfect sense! I have a 15" chuck, D1-6 somewhere (not used often) and that thing is silly heavy.
Maybe time for a jib crane or a back-to-back unistrut monorail over the lathe
I got & cut down this one for my weld area and its additive, now I'm preparing one for the middle of this shop and could see another one for my lathe and mill...
It claims only 125 lbs via official sticker but I find the dimensions identical with those with capacity of 250#...
Apologize in advance for posting a picture into your thread....I've never figured out if that's bad internet etiquette or not, my reason is just to illustrate the point rather than typing a bunch of words....but would gladly take it down if anyone sees it as an issue too.
Hi Matt,
I would have never used this material had I not had several remnants leftover. It's slick as hell on the ways and soft enough for that application.
Your 15" chuck would require a corn feed monster to hand jack into place.
I have a vertical I beam between the Lagun mill and the lathe that I have been having visions of a nice jib crane but after looking at your overhead trolley, that might be even cooler to build.
As for posting photos on this thread, I totally encourage it. No such thing as bad etiquette
when sharing ideas. That's why where here brother.
Thanks for stopping in Matt.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
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My Christmas present arrived two days after shoulder surgery so I wasn't able to play with it until now. With the larger Bison chuck out of the way (with the help of the saddle), I was able to tear down the back plate and clean off the cosmoline and set the 7/8" cam lock pins.
I used a touch of anti-anti-seize on the pin treads for good measure. The adaptor plate was mounted on the spindle to check TIR. It had .0002" on the face so I took a skim pass to bring it down to less than .00005".
The Atlas PB23-00 5C chuck was then mounted and indicated to the new registration cut.
The inside taper TIR was also less than .00005"
The speed and repeatability of the Atlas 5C thus is everything I expected.
All cleaned up. I also honed the the spindle side face.
The cam pins installed and locked down.
With the adaptor plate mounted to the spindle and the cam locks verified the TIR was measured.
A light skim face pass taken and both inside and outside edges chamfered.
The spindle indexing mark was transferred (punched) to the new mounting plate to ensure it's always mounted in the same manner.
Here's some short videos of the indicator results prior and after.
Precut measuerment and TIR.
Post cut TIR
Atlas inside taper TIR.
Ops check of the new Atlas 5C speed chuck.
Thanks for visiting.
I used a touch of anti-anti-seize on the pin treads for good measure. The adaptor plate was mounted on the spindle to check TIR. It had .0002" on the face so I took a skim pass to bring it down to less than .00005".
The Atlas PB23-00 5C chuck was then mounted and indicated to the new registration cut.
The inside taper TIR was also less than .00005"
The speed and repeatability of the Atlas 5C thus is everything I expected.
All cleaned up. I also honed the the spindle side face.
The cam pins installed and locked down.
With the adaptor plate mounted to the spindle and the cam locks verified the TIR was measured.
A light skim face pass taken and both inside and outside edges chamfered.
The spindle indexing mark was transferred (punched) to the new mounting plate to ensure it's always mounted in the same manner.
Here's some short videos of the indicator results prior and after.
Precut measuerment and TIR.
Post cut TIR
Atlas inside taper TIR.
Ops check of the new Atlas 5C speed chuck.
Thanks for visiting.
Attachments
I made the first part using the new Atlas 5C speed chuck. When I upgraded from a 1440 to a 1640 lathe, the tailstock on the new machine came with a size up 4M/T. I was able to adapt most of my nicer drill chucks using a sleeve adaptor. I did purchase a couple of nice 4 M/T live centers (LC) but they where missing the extraction tang. One LC has a 14mm X 2.0 threaded slot screw where the tang would normally be. The second 4 M/T Rohm LC just has a hole.
I measured the adaptor sleeve and came up with a diameter of .957" with a length of .875" and a thread length of .750". To form the tangs, the flats required milling down .2375" on two sides. I used a square collet block on the mill for this. The new tang works very nice allowing the LC to be ejected with the tails stock cranked in. I need to make one for the Rohm LC next.
I started with a 1" tool steel rod in the new Atlas. Faced and cut the needed profiles prior to cutting the metric 14mm x 2.0 threads.
Using a Kennametal parting tool to cut the thread relief I then switch to a Kennametal Top Notch threading tool. I was a bit aggressive on the turning and threading as I was putting the 5C setup to task. I turned the major diameter in four medium passes and cut the threads in four passes as well.
Checking the threads match.
After parting the piece close to length, I used a 17/32" collet to face off the tang end.
Using the same smaller collet, I transferred over to a square collet block and onto the mill.
The total amount needed to be removed per side was .2375" leaving the tang with a thickness of .482".
I used a four insert baby shell with a smooth surface finish. I took four .0595" passes per side at 800 RPM dry with a feed rate of 10IPM.
Ended with a custom grind (45º) end mill to match the chamfer.
I measured the adaptor sleeve and came up with a diameter of .957" with a length of .875" and a thread length of .750". To form the tangs, the flats required milling down .2375" on two sides. I used a square collet block on the mill for this. The new tang works very nice allowing the LC to be ejected with the tails stock cranked in. I need to make one for the Rohm LC next.
I started with a 1" tool steel rod in the new Atlas. Faced and cut the needed profiles prior to cutting the metric 14mm x 2.0 threads.
Using a Kennametal parting tool to cut the thread relief I then switch to a Kennametal Top Notch threading tool. I was a bit aggressive on the turning and threading as I was putting the 5C setup to task. I turned the major diameter in four medium passes and cut the threads in four passes as well.
Checking the threads match.
After parting the piece close to length, I used a 17/32" collet to face off the tang end.
Using the same smaller collet, I transferred over to a square collet block and onto the mill.
The total amount needed to be removed per side was .2375" leaving the tang with a thickness of .482".
I used a four insert baby shell with a smooth surface finish. I took four .0595" passes per side at 800 RPM dry with a feed rate of 10IPM.
Ended with a custom grind (45º) end mill to match the chamfer.
Attachments
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beautiful work Paco. Much more elaborate than my ejector.
I used a piece of all-thread threaded into the end and then a dab of weld on the end to make up the last 1/8" or so. I always intended to go back and make something nicer but it works and I never pushed the issue nor made the time. Now it looks like I may have to because mine looks like *** compared to yours.
I used a piece of all-thread threaded into the end and then a dab of weld on the end to make up the last 1/8" or so. I always intended to go back and make something nicer but it works and I never pushed the issue nor made the time. Now it looks like I may have to because mine looks like *** compared to yours.
Beautiful work Paco. Much more elaborate than my ejector.
I used a piece of all-thread threaded into the end and then a dab of weld on the end to make up the last 1/8" or so. I always intended to go back and make something nicer but it works and I never pushed the issue nor made the time. Now it looks like I may have to because mine looks like *** compared to yours.
Hi Mike,
Thanks man, I first inserted this live center when the lathe was placed in service. I played hell getting it off. I had to make a special brass drive tool to break it free. I have been using other 3 M/T live centers with an 3 M/T to 4M/T adaptor until now.
With the new Atlas 5C chuck I saw an opportunity to make the two 4 M/T live centers usable with the Acra. I don't get why these are made without a tang but I'm sure there's a reason.
I missed not being able to use the 5C collets with this lathe. So much simpler, faster and with great results. Pulling the trigger on that Atlas was overdue!
Thanks for stopping by Mike and I must compliment you again on that beautiful front bumper you recently created.
I made a second tang. This one for the Rohm live center. This one required an interference fit as it only had a .274" hole on the tang end. I used the same 1" tool steel stock from the previous screw on tang and the collet system for the different operations. The smaller diametor to be pressed in was turned to .2755". I also left a slight shoulder on this tang when I cut the flats on the milling machine. I should have done the same with the screw on tang, it looks more professional.
I'm really enjoying the accuracy and speed of the Atlas chuck.
The tang is ready for the freezer.
After 30 minutes in the freezer, the tang was pressed in place.
The finished project.
I'm looking forward to using this Rohm LC.
Thanks for looking and happy President's Day!
I'm really enjoying the accuracy and speed of the Atlas chuck.
The tang is ready for the freezer.
After 30 minutes in the freezer, the tang was pressed in place.
The finished project.
I'm looking forward to using this Rohm LC.
Thanks for looking and happy President's Day!
Attachments
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matt_i
Well-known member
Hey just stopping in to say Hello, the work on the tangs looks superb! The older I get the more I appreciate turning between centers, for rigidity and for the ability to put the part back in the same orientation. I mostly have a collection of 2pc shaft collars for drive-dogs with a little bent "L shape welded to them, I just drive off one of the chuck jaws.
That lo-profile center is going to be wonderful, I want to say i have a Riten lo-pro and its a lifesaver at certain times.
5C is also a super capability, small & delicate parts stay very happy
Also noticed you are using an on-edge threading inserts, I also think alike, using the Dorian version and very happy with those as well.
Always appreciate your super clean shop. I am not there yet
That lo-profile center is going to be wonderful, I want to say i have a Riten lo-pro and its a lifesaver at certain times.
5C is also a super capability, small & delicate parts stay very happy
Also noticed you are using an on-edge threading inserts, I also think alike, using the Dorian version and very happy with those as well.
Always appreciate your super clean shop. I am not there yet
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Hi Matt,
Thanks for the positive words. I'm excited to have the live centers in service as well as the 5C chuck. My last lathe (1440) had the same tooling however the 5C chuck was a scroll type D1-4 spindle. I was not able to make it work with the D1-6 spindle so I decided to go for the Atlas. My son's lathe tooling is growing lol!
The Top-Notch threading insert works well but I've been thinking of trying other inserts with more cutting edges.
Be well and thanks for stopping in.
Paco
Thanks for the positive words. I'm excited to have the live centers in service as well as the 5C chuck. My last lathe (1440) had the same tooling however the 5C chuck was a scroll type D1-4 spindle. I was not able to make it work with the D1-6 spindle so I decided to go for the Atlas. My son's lathe tooling is growing lol!
The Top-Notch threading insert works well but I've been thinking of trying other inserts with more cutting edges.
Be well and thanks for stopping in.
Paco
dagofast
Well-known member
Paco,
If you're looking for a threading insert with more than 2 sides like your Kennemetal Top Notch inserts, you might want to look at Sandvik. Unlike the more familiar vertical triangular insert used by Valenite and others, Sandvik makes a horizontal triangular insert. It is even available in specific pitch sizes if you want to "top" the threads you are cutting. You can see more at this link: https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en...to-choose-thread-turning-insert-and-shim.aspx and it explains it better than I could with just words.
If you're looking for a threading insert with more than 2 sides like your Kennemetal Top Notch inserts, you might want to look at Sandvik. Unlike the more familiar vertical triangular insert used by Valenite and others, Sandvik makes a horizontal triangular insert. It is even available in specific pitch sizes if you want to "top" the threads you are cutting. You can see more at this link: https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en...to-choose-thread-turning-insert-and-shim.aspx and it explains it better than I could with just words.
dagofast,
I reviewed the the material in the link you provided. I'll need to check on the cost for each specific inserts. I like the multi-point insert and I'm confidant my lathe is ridgid enough to support this. I need to see how cost effective it would be to purchase other wise the other two profiles look promising. Thanks for the link!
Paco
Built a tilting solar panel rack for a overland build. This is the same rig that got the Thuren Fabrication Suspention upgrade a few months back. The two panels are 270 watt each (540 watt total) and supply power to a 5.2 Kw system. Two 100 Amp hour Battle born batteries are at the heart of the system. These batteries utilize LiFePO4 chemistry and are the latest and greatest at the moment (time will tell).
The rack will tilt up to 40º Port or Starboard. It employs two over center latch per side as well as two quick style clamps. Each side also uses a full length 2"piano hinge connecting a 16 ga 1" x 1" square tube to a 16 ga 1" x 2" section of tubing. The piano hinge was drilled every 6" (7/16") and plug welded keeping warpage to a minimum. The aluminum frame was through bolted to the shell upon reinstallation as new forces would be applied at highway speeds. I had zero input on the panel size, my job was to design and make the two large panels work as well as ensuring a sound attachment when stowed.
Since tubing was used, I opted to use 1/4-20 swage blind inserts aka rivet nuts. These secure the panels to the rack as well as secure the tilt brackets to the aluminum sub frame.
The rack weighs in around 25 pounds.
A close up of a installed rivet nut.
The two panels installed to the 1" frame.
The tilt support brackets mount holes.
The bracket.
Here you can see the piano hinge as well as one of two over center latch.
Another view of the same side showing one of two wing style clamps.
This clamp uses a 1/4-20 x 1-3/4" bolt with 1/4" bent rod forming a wing.
The bolt was also grooved to retain the flat washer (snap ring) with a small hole drilled for a 1/16" retaining cable to prevent misplacement when removed for tilting. No tools required.
More to come...
The rack will tilt up to 40º Port or Starboard. It employs two over center latch per side as well as two quick style clamps. Each side also uses a full length 2"piano hinge connecting a 16 ga 1" x 1" square tube to a 16 ga 1" x 2" section of tubing. The piano hinge was drilled every 6" (7/16") and plug welded keeping warpage to a minimum. The aluminum frame was through bolted to the shell upon reinstallation as new forces would be applied at highway speeds. I had zero input on the panel size, my job was to design and make the two large panels work as well as ensuring a sound attachment when stowed.
Since tubing was used, I opted to use 1/4-20 swage blind inserts aka rivet nuts. These secure the panels to the rack as well as secure the tilt brackets to the aluminum sub frame.
The rack weighs in around 25 pounds.
A close up of a installed rivet nut.
The two panels installed to the 1" frame.
The tilt support brackets mount holes.
The bracket.
Here you can see the piano hinge as well as one of two over center latch.
Another view of the same side showing one of two wing style clamps.
This clamp uses a 1/4-20 x 1-3/4" bolt with 1/4" bent rod forming a wing.
The bolt was also grooved to retain the flat washer (snap ring) with a small hole drilled for a 1/16" retaining cable to prevent misplacement when removed for tilting. No tools required.
More to come...
Attachments
More on the installation.
Nothing was square on the ARE shell rack, in fact it had almost an inch of taper front to back.
Overall the rack functions quite well all things considered.
“Tilt test”
The Port side tilt function test.
Starboard side tilt.
Despite the overcast day, I took some readings with the panels flat and tilted and was very surprised at how much more wattage was generated in the tilted position.
Side view of the finished install.
Front/side view.
Considering the oversize (IMO) panels it turned out well.
Thanks for visiting.
Paco
Nothing was square on the ARE shell rack, in fact it had almost an inch of taper front to back.
Overall the rack functions quite well all things considered.
“Tilt test”
The Port side tilt function test.
Starboard side tilt.
Despite the overcast day, I took some readings with the panels flat and tilted and was very surprised at how much more wattage was generated in the tilted position.
Side view of the finished install.
Front/side view.
Considering the oversize (IMO) panels it turned out well.
Thanks for visiting.
Paco
Attachments
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job on the solar rack Paco. Like all of your work, very clean and tidy.
matt_i
Well-known member
Wow, that's cool! Impressive design with the 2-way tilt. Am I understanding it correctly that the user chooses which piano hinge to "release" via the DeStaCo clamps and then the strut goes under that edge?
I was also admiring your sawhorses in the pics above. Seem very lightweight and easy to use for light stuff like that! Maybe 3/4" round tubing? I'm thinking they also fold flat...
I was also admiring your sawhorses in the pics above. Seem very lightweight and easy to use for light stuff like that! Maybe 3/4" round tubing? I'm thinking they also fold flat...
Wow, that's cool! Impressive design with the 2-way tilt. Am I understanding it correctly that the user chooses which piano hinge to "release" via the DeStaCo clamps and then the strut goes under that edge?
I was also admiring your sawhorses in the pics above. Seem very lightweight and easy to use for light stuff like that! Maybe 3/4" round tubing? I'm thinking they also fold flat...
Hi Matt.
You are spot on on how the tilt feature works. The outboard manual clamps with the wing nuts prevent the fixed side from twisting. The over center latches **** everythinh down preventing chaffing/rattling.
Those saw horses are made from conduit and do fold flat. A small section of cable allows them to open a predetermined ammount and share the load.
Be well Matt.
Definitely my friend. And the adjustment was super easy, I flipping luv it out here. Since moving out of black canyon and down to Avondale the first of the year I’ve been heading back to Cali every weekend. I’m finally making a dent with moving the shop and getting the house ready to go on the market. Once that place is gone and the wife and dogs are out here, I’ll be able to breath and get down your way without it being a one day job walk turn around ordeal.
rbkool
Active member
Almost two years without a post, bumping this thread up to say I really enjoyed it, and hope the OP is doing ok! Amazing work and beautiful shop!
Thanks for the bump, I was following Paco though his post and did not realize it has been almost two years since his last post. He does some awesome work. With all that has happened over the past several year I do hope all is well with him and his family.
After Zmotorsports and I discussed it in his thread I reached out to Paco but got no response. So I decided to do the morbid thing and search the obit’s as I have all his contact info and thank god didn’t find anything. Hopefully everything is good and he just burned out on his online presence.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks for reaching out to him Cam. I hope he responds and all is well. All I could do it leave him a private message here but it's been a month and no response.
Keep us posted if your hear anything please.