Osb ceiling
- Thread starter Reit38
- Start date
If it were me I’d strap it on 16” centres and put up 7/16”. But that’s me. If your trusses aren’t straight it’ll be hard to land edges of sheet on center of truss. I usually space my trusses when installing and brace as well. That helps.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I used 7/16” OSB on 24” centers, but added a piece between each truss across each unsupported gap since I had loads of free 1x4 from shipping crates. I also beveled all edges with a router and aligned all joints to make it appear to be giant ceiling tiles when painted. Each sheet was spaced with a nail to provide a caulking joint and to enhance the joint detail.
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Is there a big difference between 1/2 and 7/16 in price or strength? Are you wanting to be able to screw anything to the ceiling where ever you want or are asking because you have a worry about the weight it will add?
I don't necessarily have the answer but trying to help pinpoint the question(s) you want answered.
I don't necessarily have the answer but trying to help pinpoint the question(s) you want answered.
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
2' rafter spacing....hang 7/16" the same way you hang drywall, and you'll be fine. Just make sure you use adequate length screws.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
I hung the thin 1/4” OSB, I covered all the seams with 1x2 furring strips, screwed with 2” deck screws. Painted all the sheets while on the ground really helps brighten the area
I assume this is a detached structure from the house? As I don't think they would like you get bye with OSB on an attached garage. EVEN if they did, I would still follow code for that structure (which is drywall in most areas).
I hung 7/16" OSB 24" OC in my garage. I wouldn't do it again as I'd use metal like I did in the house garage.
Falcon67
Well-known member
I used 7/16 on 24" - no issues. I just took some down after 7 years for the ceiling/lift mod, no sag or bow in the sheets.
If you intend to condition the space (AC or heat) you'll want to caulk all seams between the sheets and at the walls. I used a light brown that blended in well. I did not paint.
If you intend to condition the space (AC or heat) you'll want to caulk all seams between the sheets and at the walls. I used a light brown that blended in well. I did not paint.
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
This. Especially in our climate OSB does not fare well from what I have seen/experienced.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
I hung 16' long metal on my ceiling. I'm super happy with it. I don't think OSB does well in hanging mode.
My garage is insulated and heated during the Winter. The OSB I out up is holding up very well since I put it up 2010 (?) during my garage refurb.
The reason I would do metal is it's lighter and once it's up, it's done. . . . no caulking joints/seams, priming and painting. I hung my OSB myself, without a drywall lift, one sheet at a time using blocks to hold it in place while put a few screws to hold it in place. I'll admit, it kicked my ***.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Interesting, since there is a shed behind us that is made from OSB with a single pitch corrugated tin roof and has been outside in the weather for 7 years. They painted it this spring for some reason. But it's still in one piece and quite functional. Sure it was discolored but apparently OSB doesn't dissolve in the first rain storm like some people seem to think. The storage floor in my shop attic is pieces of OSB used as a work platform during the build and got really wet several times.
It does swell around edges and not recover like a ply can, it also deforms/sags easily .
wouldn't be my first choice for ceiling but is popular choice, I much prefer metal panels as easier fitting, pre finished and appearance much more stable over time .
wouldn't be my first choice for ceiling but is popular choice, I much prefer metal panels as easier fitting, pre finished and appearance much more stable over time .
finn
Well-known member
My garage at the house has two different wall and ceiling heights. The 10’ part is osb, and the 12’ part is white steel.
If I had to do a ceiling in another garage, I would forget the osb and go with the steel.
Faster to put up and looks better.
If I had to do a ceiling in another garage, I would forget the osb and go with the steel.
Faster to put up and looks better.
gemniii
Well-known member
For the inquiring mind, what are the differences in cost between metal and OSB?
In my area I can get painted metal for about $1/sq foot. 7/16 OSB runs about $10 for a 4x8 sheet (about a third).
I've got about 4,000 sq feet to cover and am trying to balance off the costs of painting, ease of handling etc.
In my area I can get painted metal for about $1/sq foot. 7/16 OSB runs about $10 for a 4x8 sheet (about a third).
I've got about 4,000 sq feet to cover and am trying to balance off the costs of painting, ease of handling etc.
Where are you located? $1/sq ft for metal is pretty high based on what I've been finding. Metal is usually about 36" wide, and ordered by length, so it seems like I typically see the metal priced by the linear foot rather than sqft. Make sure you know what you're pricing so that you can compare accurately.
For reference, I ran some numbers a couple of days ago and got $0.60-0.75/sqft for metal (16ft lengths)
If you'd be leaving the OSB bare, then it's going to be a fair bit cheaper than metal. But if you're planning on painting it, then the costs/time to do that work start to make metal more appealing. 4000 sqft is a lot of ceiling!
gemniii
Well-known member
The metal and OSB prices were from HD, 12' is $21 ($1.06/sq ft), 16' is $50 (1.04/sq ft). I know Menards is cheaper but it's also about 274 miles from Fulton, Mississippi.
I've also got about another 1,000 sq ft of walls to cover.
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I'd be looking around for local-ish lumber yards or metal shops that roll their own panels then. If you find one, they'll probably do whatever custom lengths you want too, which should mean the best price and least amount of costly waste material. It will also go up faster and look better when finished.