theamcguy
Well-known member
Lots of great info here
Oscilliscope/Mini Osc for hobby automotive diagnostics
- Thread starter R-mm
- Start date
Got the uScope - neat little thing and can already tell the support is very solid.
The first test I wanted to do (AC ripple)... already requires an adapter I didn't get in the basic kit: https://www.aeswave.com/AC-Pass-Filter-Adapter-p9178.html
While I'm ordering... are there other must-have attachments?
The first test I wanted to do (AC ripple)... already requires an adapter I didn't get in the basic kit: https://www.aeswave.com/AC-Pass-Filter-Adapter-p9178.html
While I'm ordering... are there other must-have attachments?
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Did you buy the base kit, or the master kit?
They make a 10/1 attenuator. I was an early buyer, so my kit didnt include that.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Imo you want to get the uscope adapters too. They mate banana or BNC connectors to the uscope connector. Then you can use whatever accessories you want.
I'm all about amp clamps, AES is similar to other options for a 20/60amp current probe. Gonna need an adapter for any clamps you buy regardless.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Yep, that's the one. Connects any banana jack accessory to the Uscope. I believe the Uscope itself uses microBNC?
https://www.aeswave.com/Flexible-Adapter-for-uScope-to-BNC-p9171.html
They also make one that connects any BNC scope lead to the Uscope.
https://www.aeswave.com/Flexible-Adapter-for-uScope-to-BNC-p9171.html
They also make one that connects any BNC scope lead to the Uscope.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Current probes can be had in banana jack, or BNC flavor.
https://www.aeswave.com/Current-Probe-Low-range-with-Banana-Plugs-p9501.html
https://www.aeswave.com/Current-Probe-Low-range-with-BNC-p9500.html
To use them, you really want fuse break-outs, and a fused jump wire. About $30 additional investment to buy the break-outs and make a fused jump wire.
I originally had a snap-on Modis as my main scope, it uses banana jacks. So basically everything I own is banana jack, which I adapt to the BNC port the Picoscope uses. Most of the time, you can get accessories in either termination, BNC or banana. I'm partial to banana, as all my leads can fit meters and snap-on scopes. Pico just lives with adapters on its main use leads, and I have extras banana to BNC adapters if need be. Some stuff that really only makes sense to use on the Pico, I bought in BNC.
Ideally, I would recommend buying all of 1 style, either BNC on Banana.
https://www.aeswave.com/Current-Probe-Low-range-with-Banana-Plugs-p9501.html
https://www.aeswave.com/Current-Probe-Low-range-with-BNC-p9500.html
To use them, you really want fuse break-outs, and a fused jump wire. About $30 additional investment to buy the break-outs and make a fused jump wire.
I originally had a snap-on Modis as my main scope, it uses banana jacks. So basically everything I own is banana jack, which I adapt to the BNC port the Picoscope uses. Most of the time, you can get accessories in either termination, BNC or banana. I'm partial to banana, as all my leads can fit meters and snap-on scopes. Pico just lives with adapters on its main use leads, and I have extras banana to BNC adapters if need be. Some stuff that really only makes sense to use on the Pico, I bought in BNC.
Ideally, I would recommend buying all of 1 style, either BNC on Banana.
What is the name for the terminal on the leads that come with the uScope?
https://www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-Kit-p9621.html
https://www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-Kit-p9621.html
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Via my instruction manual, it's listed as a "MCX plug".
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
While I don't use the presets, the data that you collect is in green on my unit. Whatever pattern is being input to the scope, is displayed in green. I was skimming through the instructions I didn't read years ago - I may check out the presets out of curiosity.
Looks like your vehicle has less initial voltage drop, and a more aggressive post-start charging strategy than the sample vehicle.
Looks like your vehicle has less initial voltage drop, and a more aggressive post-start charging strategy than the sample vehicle.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
IMHO, uscope is WAY OVER PRICED !
For $150, you can get a 2 channel 'scope with a larger display (7 inches, 800 * 480 resolution). Add your own lead/probes for less than $50.
For $150, you can get a 2 channel 'scope with a larger display (7 inches, 800 * 480 resolution). Add your own lead/probes for less than $50.
Can you explain what you mean by fuse break-outs and fused jumper wire?
I have a strange breaker trip I am trying to diagnose and may buy the current probe sooner rather than later.
I have a strange breaker trip I am trying to diagnose and may buy the current probe sooner rather than later.
I'm guessing maybe something like the- General Technologies Corp GTC063 GTC06X Fuse Socket Connector Kit
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Sure: A fuse "current loop" "break out" "fuse extension" is simply a way to easily measure current flow in a circuit with just having access to the fuse box/panel.
It is essentially just a wire, which goes in place of the fuse. So we remove the 10amp fuse, and connect a wire between each terminal in the fuse box the wire occupied. However, doing so with just a piece of wire, means there is no current limiting fuse in the equation. Below is the remedy to that:
Below are the two options for normal/modern fuses.
https://www.aeswave.com/Fuse-Amp-Loop-with-Voltage-Tap-p9653.html
Various people make these. You just remove the fuse, stick it in the adapter, and plug the adapter in.
The second option is a little more DIY, but superior IMO.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787JKMTH/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Those plug into the fuse box.
We then use a fuse holder like one below, and crimp female spade terminals onto it. Or if you buy several you could just solder a fuse holder onto each of the adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU9FMD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
The reason I like the second option, owning both, is fuse availability. I can have 1 size of fuse on hand, say "mini", and that's what fits in my fused jumper wire. So now I only need to carry/stock a few of each current draw. Where as if I need a low-profile mini, that's not super common. What if your adapter is damaged and pops the fuse? Now you blew the customers fuse, which is some weird design like Micro2, which isn't super common and stocked at parts stores.
I prefer to walk up to a car, remove the fuse, and set it aside. Then I use the General Technologies product and my DIY fuse holding loop of wire to take measurements. When I'm done, the car gets the original fuse back.
If you are only measuring on one type of fuse, say whatever is common on older 911s, you can get even more DIY. Get the fuse holder, and crimp on spade male connectors of approx. the size of the fuse terminals. Not as secure, but works in a pinch.
Stick your probe around the loop you created, get the current pattern. A small alligator clip or dedicated lead can take the voltage measurement at the same time.
It is essentially just a wire, which goes in place of the fuse. So we remove the 10amp fuse, and connect a wire between each terminal in the fuse box the wire occupied. However, doing so with just a piece of wire, means there is no current limiting fuse in the equation. Below is the remedy to that:
Below are the two options for normal/modern fuses.
https://www.aeswave.com/Fuse-Amp-Loop-with-Voltage-Tap-p9653.html
Various people make these. You just remove the fuse, stick it in the adapter, and plug the adapter in.
The second option is a little more DIY, but superior IMO.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787JKMTH/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Those plug into the fuse box.
We then use a fuse holder like one below, and crimp female spade terminals onto it. Or if you buy several you could just solder a fuse holder onto each of the adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU9FMD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
The reason I like the second option, owning both, is fuse availability. I can have 1 size of fuse on hand, say "mini", and that's what fits in my fused jumper wire. So now I only need to carry/stock a few of each current draw. Where as if I need a low-profile mini, that's not super common. What if your adapter is damaged and pops the fuse? Now you blew the customers fuse, which is some weird design like Micro2, which isn't super common and stocked at parts stores.
I prefer to walk up to a car, remove the fuse, and set it aside. Then I use the General Technologies product and my DIY fuse holding loop of wire to take measurements. When I'm done, the car gets the original fuse back.
If you are only measuring on one type of fuse, say whatever is common on older 911s, you can get even more DIY. Get the fuse holder, and crimp on spade male connectors of approx. the size of the fuse terminals. Not as secure, but works in a pinch.
Stick your probe around the loop you created, get the current pattern. A small alligator clip or dedicated lead can take the voltage measurement at the same time.
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2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I have also soldered some stacking banana jacks onto fuse holders. This allows me to use mini alligator clamps to grasp the holders of old school glass fuses.
You can also use them inline with regular jump wires to supply a regulated power source to a component.
I buy most of my stuff like this in 5 or 10 packs, as it's often cheaper than buying 2 single items.
EDIT: an advantage of the AESwave style is safety. If I'm test driving with a current clamp under the hood, I feel those more "finished" adapters are inherently safer and less likely to have vibration induced issues. But if space is tight, or I'm in the shop, the DIY solution is easier to me.
You can also use them inline with regular jump wires to supply a regulated power source to a component.
I buy most of my stuff like this in 5 or 10 packs, as it's often cheaper than buying 2 single items.
EDIT: an advantage of the AESwave style is safety. If I'm test driving with a current clamp under the hood, I feel those more "finished" adapters are inherently safer and less likely to have vibration induced issues. But if space is tight, or I'm in the shop, the DIY solution is easier to me.
richfinn
Well-known member
Correct, look at vehicle fuseboxes as an "easy" access point
Usually wiring harnesses are either tough to get at or very well protected
Any kind of "non intrusive" testing is always a good thing
mrjaw14
Well-known member
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Exactly, if the wires are easy and accessible, forget the fuse break-outs. However, lets take the example of the ignition coils, 6 cylinder engine with COP coils, 6 total.
We want to see the current flowing to each coil, and each coil shares a common power supply. Somewhere in the harness, is a splice pack which makes a single wire into the 6 inputs to our coil. If you know what fuse powers the coils, you can simply tap in there, and not worry about tearing the harness apart, or sticking the clamp on each coil one at a time.
You're tellin' me!
Some of these fuse boxes ain't too peachy either.
richfinn
Well-known member
Do you get the Nissans with the upside down fuseboxes over there, a crazy idea!!!
Volvos under the seats, aaagrh!!!
****** car designers
