OT: need help with kitchen sink replacement
- Thread starter crazybrit
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Toomanytools?
Well-known member
Do you have room in the cabinets on either side? You can always cut wider to get clips in, but I wouldn't worry about clips, just silicon a drop in sink in place. Have you looked at a drop in cast iron sink? I would not try to fix the Corian, plus that sink is horribly stained time to replace.
Well **** man! You said you are going to rip it out in a couple years. $10 or $500, your call!You're messing with the answer/quality ratio here
The $10 dollar repair might not last, but it hardly cost anything to give it a second try!
Crowbarman55
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- May 22, 2021
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Just do the new kitchen now. Maybe this is a sign to just do it. Heck in 2 or 3 years the price will probably triple again for a kitchen remodel..
Not trying to sound like a smart donkey, just a thought.
Good luck.
Todd
Not trying to sound like a smart donkey, just a thought.
Good luck.
Todd
Well **** man! You said you are going to rip it out in a couple years. $10 or $500, your call!
The $10 dollar repair might not last, but it hardly cost anything to give it a second try!
#1 we pretty much eliminated repairs in above dicussion
#2 Having a repair **** out with the sink full of water when I'm out of town would be - shall we say - suboptimal.
Might explain why my wife wasn't that annoyed about me cracking it
Defn brought forward the remodel. Yeah, don't want to think about costs in 2 more years.If we could actually get people to show up and give an estimate we might be inclined to do it. Probably not though as my wife has an ever growing list of what she wants in the remodel, walls being knocked down and we really need to figure out the totality of the work to avoid wasting money.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
I would use the drop in stainless sink.
Put wide masking tape on all cut lines to prevent any unwanted scratches.
Cut the old sink out with a jigsaw.
Place the template as far to the right so the sink will drop into the cabinet without hitting the right side cabinet wall.
Cut out the new sink cutout using the jigsaw.
Cut the cabinet wall down on the dishwasher side as far as needed to clear the sink.
Drop in new sink.
I can tell you the cutting corian is not that different than cutting wood
Put wide masking tape on all cut lines to prevent any unwanted scratches.
Cut the old sink out with a jigsaw.
Place the template as far to the right so the sink will drop into the cabinet without hitting the right side cabinet wall.
Cut out the new sink cutout using the jigsaw.
Cut the cabinet wall down on the dishwasher side as far as needed to clear the sink.
Drop in new sink.
I can tell you the cutting corian is not that different than cutting wood
Well, I guess I missed that part. I saw where you questioned epoxy and what not, but I guess I didn't realize you were against a patch job. I have done a repair like this with a Corian sink and it held for many years. Also I haven't seen where a replacement sink is happening either, your choices seem a bit slim.
I don't see it having a catastrophic failure. If you want glue in some fiberglass drywall tape along the cracks. and more Seal All.
I would Seal All it and check it once in a while, and not even worry about it!
What is in the cabinets on either side? Can you cut out the cabinet divider panels to fit clip in place for an under mount?
nickelTwin
Well-known member
You will not need carbide blade or bits.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
Drill a hole in the corner big enough to fit a regular wood blade on a jigsaw to start your cut. It will cut as easy as wood.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
The flange on the drop in sink will cover any rough edges
nickelTwin
Well-known member
I've cut plenty of corian (solid surface counter tops)
nickelTwin
Well-known member
It will look nice in the end for a few years.
It should only several hours.
It should only several hours.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
Pretty hard to crack when you are cutting it
nickelTwin
Well-known member
You will have the new ss sink installed in about the same amount of time you would have spent trying to patch your old sink.
Spending that time trying to patch the old cracked sink and having it start leaking in a month would not be a happy thing.
You will also be looking at a shiny clean sink for a couple years till the remodel.
Spending that time trying to patch the old cracked sink and having it start leaking in a month would not be a happy thing.
You will also be looking at a shiny clean sink for a couple years till the remodel.
nadogail
Well-known member
When I replace the porcelain enameled sinks in my rentals I buy the inexpensive Glacier Bay surface mount sinks from Home Depot and cut the original sinks out of the tile countertops.
I use a premium Silicone Caulk to seal the sinks to the countertop. I then lay a couple of lengths of 2X4 across the sink and put two 5 gallon buckets that I fill with water to hold the sink in place until the silicone caulk sets up.
I use a premium Silicone Caulk to seal the sinks to the countertop. I then lay a couple of lengths of 2X4 across the sink and put two 5 gallon buckets that I fill with water to hold the sink in place until the silicone caulk sets up.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
Support the old sink bowl while cutting it.
Board across the top with a rope threw the drain hole will do it.
Board across the top with a rope threw the drain hole will do it.
Thanks for the advice everyone. My concern was just with the clips. I'd hoped I could just go without them.
The current 5g bucket ***** but once I cut the current sink out I'm committed to getting something working quick else the wife will have words .... so I just wanted to throw out some ideas with others before committing.
I really appreciate all the advice.
The current 5g bucket ***** but once I cut the current sink out I'm committed to getting something working quick else the wife will have words .... so I just wanted to throw out some ideas with others before committing.
I really appreciate all the advice.
rlitman
Well-known member
+1 Don't forget this, or when it drops, it will tear out a chunk at the end of the cut.
If it were me, I'd put a solid box (or some phone books) under the sink and raise my laboratory scissor jack up to support it from below (a car jack could do the same thing).
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nickelTwin
Well-known member
I would say this is a better idea
nickelTwin
Well-known member
I would put the clips in where you are able to fit them.
nickelTwin
Well-known member
Some clips better than none
jar944
Well-known member
Overcome/overtaken by events. Aka Moot or irrelevant.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I see absolutey no reason to go for an undermount. Yeah my favorite is not a drop-in SS sink but that will be so easy here. We actually really like the SS sink although ours is an undermount. Had corian type sinks in the last two houses and it get's real tiring when you poor out the remains of your coffee and it splashes all over. You know you need to flush it out or the sink will get stained. nadogail's post #59 is what I'd be doing. Drop that sucker on a bed of his preferred silicone and no fastners required at all. Most of those sinks have a 1.5-2.0 inch mounting flange so whatever gets ugly while cutting out the old one is going to be easy to cover.
65ranchero
Well-known member
Top mount sink for the win!
david3921
Well-known member
Here's a cast iron sink that may fit;
True drop in as it doesn't require clips. I installed a cast iron one in my kitchen. Cut the hole, caulk it up, and drop it in. It sits proud of the counter top like a bathroom sink. Just not as high The specs say that the cut out needs to be 23 3/4" X 20 3/4". Might be a bit too wide, though
Amazon has smaller sinks in cast iron and SS. Here's a SS that is 24" X 18". 18 ga. and says disposal compatible.
KOHLER Mayfield White Cast Iron 25 in. 4-Hole Single Bowl Drop-in Kitchen Sink K-5964-4-0 - The Home Depot
Add a crazy appeal to your kitchen space by selecting this amazing KOHLER Mayfield White Cast Iron 4-Hole Single Bowl Drop-in Kitchen Sink. Easy to use.
www.homedepot.com
True drop in as it doesn't require clips. I installed a cast iron one in my kitchen. Cut the hole, caulk it up, and drop it in. It sits proud of the counter top like a bathroom sink. Just not as high The specs say that the cut out needs to be 23 3/4" X 20 3/4". Might be a bit too wide, though
Amazon has smaller sinks in cast iron and SS. Here's a SS that is 24" X 18". 18 ga. and says disposal compatible.
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Self ******* cast iron sinks are as useful as a screen door on a submarine, they look nice but are a PITA when a large amount of liquid is spilled on a countertop and the rim presents a barrier to getting it into the sink, a very minor issue with stainless steel since the rim is lower compared to cast iron.Here's a cast iron sink that may fit;
KOHLER Mayfield White Cast Iron 25 in. 4-Hole Single Bowl Drop-in Kitchen Sink K-5964-4-0 - The Home Depot
Add a crazy appeal to your kitchen space by selecting this amazing KOHLER Mayfield White Cast Iron 4-Hole Single Bowl Drop-in Kitchen Sink. Easy to use.www.homedepot.com
True drop in as it doesn't require clips. I installed a cast iron one in my kitchen. Cut the hole, caulk it up, and drop it in. It sits proud of the counter top like a bathroom sink. Just not as high The specs say that the cut out needs to be 23 3/4" X 20 3/4". Might be a bit too wide, though
Amazon has smaller sinks in cast iron and SS. Here's a SS that is 24" X 18";
Chance
Well-known member
I know the questions are about replacing... but if the problem with repair is the coefficient of expansion of acrylic is high, so it shifts with temperature change, what about something like engine RTV? If the crack were widened, would the rubber be compliant enough to follow? Is the crack straight enough that a groove could be routed and filled by compressing a cut open o-ring into it?
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david3921
Well-known member
I installed it instead of a SS one because they don't shake when using the garbage disposal. I've had mine for over 20 years now with no issues. Of course, I'm not spilling large amounts of liquids either.
I suggested the sink more for its size and ease of installation. You can find a cast iron one that will fit and have no issues with clips. It just doesn't look like he'll be able find a standard SS one that will fit in the small cabinet.
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Man...I'd absolutely go with the SS drop in. The old sink is bonded to the countertop, so if it were me, I'd get a jigsaw with a short fine tooth blade and cut horizontally, right at the bond line. That will drop out the old sink and you're done with it. Then, just use the jigsaw again, to make the cutout you need for the SS drop in. Silicone the rim to the countertop.
Corian cuts very easily with essentially any woodworking tool.
Corian cuts very easily with essentially any woodworking tool.
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rlitman
Well-known member
Well, you could probably coat the entire sink with Flexseal or maybe Redguard. I doubt the wife will like cleaning it though.
I have a 36" stainless farmhouse sink (that's a huge span for stainless sheet). My disposal doesn't shake it.
david3921
Well-known member
I would guess that it's probably 18 ga? Most standard, two bowl sinks are 22 ga. Makes quite a bit of difference.
I'd replace the sink with a like sink. Assuming you can find a source. Corian dealers don't typically like to sell to DIY folks. Need to be certified and all that. But, if a sink can be found along with the correct adhesive it's doable.
Cutting it out can be done with a slot cutter in a router from the top. Use one with a guide bearing. May be difficult to find one with the necessary depth of cut but they can be purchased. Stick the new on in place with the Corian adhesive, that's how it was done when first fabricated. Clamp using a bridge from the countertop and through the drain hole to hold it in place until cured.
I was a certified installer for a similar product, not Corian but similar, before the maker got out of that market. Real stone became cheaper than the imitations!
Look around here: https://www.solidsurface.com/adhesive.
On second thought, for a quick fix, grind the cracks out from both sides, don't grind so far that you crack a gap all way through. The order some of the adhesive from the above site, with applicator. Fill the cracks Sand to an acceptable appearance. About a hundred bucks for the tool and material.
Cutting it out can be done with a slot cutter in a router from the top. Use one with a guide bearing. May be difficult to find one with the necessary depth of cut but they can be purchased. Stick the new on in place with the Corian adhesive, that's how it was done when first fabricated. Clamp using a bridge from the countertop and through the drain hole to hold it in place until cured.
I was a certified installer for a similar product, not Corian but similar, before the maker got out of that market. Real stone became cheaper than the imitations!
Look around here: https://www.solidsurface.com/adhesive.
On second thought, for a quick fix, grind the cracks out from both sides, don't grind so far that you crack a gap all way through. The order some of the adhesive from the above site, with applicator. Fill the cracks Sand to an acceptable appearance. About a hundred bucks for the tool and material.
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rlitman
Well-known member
15 gauge, and yes, it makes a huge difference. 22 gauge sinks are practically soda cans.