shortykorte
Well-known member
The bedroom is a great idea. While she talks you drill. 
Outlaw's Canedy Otto Royal 18 Drill Press
- Thread starter Outlawmws
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oldldh
Well-known member
Not sure a DP is a necessary component to that...
Yes, but it will keep you straight...
My wife said that either I sleep in the garage or the dp. It was tempting but there are mice in the garage so dp it is.
Looks like I have same deal with the motor/pulley as you do outlaw. Is it even possible to find that big of a motor with smaller shaft?
Very nice! I now have table envy....
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Are you going to use the circuit board from the treadmill so you can adjust the speed?
You only need one particular card from the TM, and a potentiometer:
I'll probably use the one off my Rockwell and put the Rockwell back to stock to sell:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224
I'll probably use the one off my Rockwell and put the Rockwell back to stock to sell:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224
Greetings - I'm brand new to this forum - I just bought what appears to be this same drill press, at a local thrift store, for a mere $150, and searching for info on it led me to this thread. I'm a budding guitar builder - I've needed a dp for a while, and while this is a bit of overkill for my purposes, it's absolutely beautiful, and at that price I couldn't pass it up. It looks to be fairly complete, but I'm sure it will need some TLC. I'm not adept to refurb this on my own, but I'll be reading this thread from top to bottom, scouring for more info wherever I can find it, and enlisting help from friends, to get this baby up and running. Glad to be here, and grateful for this forum!!! Cheers.
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I have an old DP I had listed on Craigslist but I didn't know the Brand or model. Someone e-mailed me that it might be a Canedy Otto Royal 18. I think they were right! Mine has been painted over so many times that the label is covered and I haven't been able to wear through it yet.
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shortykorte
Well-known member
Any updates on the DP?
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
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Long shot, but any more progress on this? I recently picked up my own Royal 18 and am starting the research in order to get it humming again. That said, some questions:
Can anyone provide (or grab) either the measurements for the original stepped motor sheave, or better yet, an equivalent part number for a replacement?
Anyone with parts I'm missing, that would be willing to come off 'em? I lack the sheave, covers, key, etc and would like to buy them.
I realize that the 3.7 horse compressor motor might be a little much, but may be preferable to the 1/2 hp one. Is it worth messing with, or stick to the .5?
I would also be grateful for any info regarding part numbers for an appropriate drive belt, and any other pertinent information y'all could provide.
Can anyone provide (or grab) either the measurements for the original stepped motor sheave, or better yet, an equivalent part number for a replacement?
Anyone with parts I'm missing, that would be willing to come off 'em? I lack the sheave, covers, key, etc and would like to buy them.
I realize that the 3.7 horse compressor motor might be a little much, but may be preferable to the 1/2 hp one. Is it worth messing with, or stick to the .5?
I would also be grateful for any info regarding part numbers for an appropriate drive belt, and any other pertinent information y'all could provide.
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Status is the same as before; waiting for time to become available.
The Stepped motor sheave will be a bit tough with 6 grooves. but the size will be the same as the Quil so the belt is basically the same wherever its used.
Motor - Unless you plans some really heavy duty cutting, 1/2 to 1 HP is plenty. However you can kill two birds with one stone if you use a Treadmill motor for the DP and use its variable speeds do the work of changing speeds. I did one on my Rockwell DP and have not touched the belt since, and the motor only needed one single pulley.
Sorry, cant help with part, but for part numbers I have this parts list if it loaded:
The Stepped motor sheave will be a bit tough with 6 grooves. but the size will be the same as the Quil so the belt is basically the same wherever its used.
Motor - Unless you plans some really heavy duty cutting, 1/2 to 1 HP is plenty. However you can kill two birds with one stone if you use a Treadmill motor for the DP and use its variable speeds do the work of changing speeds. I did one on my Rockwell DP and have not touched the belt since, and the motor only needed one single pulley.
Sorry, cant help with part, but for part numbers I have this parts list if it loaded:
A few months ago I picked up a 1940's Royal 18 dill press in fairly rough shape. I've been using it ever since and love it. I switched the dying original motor to a 1.5 hp three phase motor and 1 hp VFD for immediate speed control (and sold the old motor to a collector!). My current problem is that it sounds frankly scary above 1500 rpm or so. My guess (and hope) is that it just needs new spindle bearings. Does anyone know what size bearings I need to source? I was having trouble finding the information online and I don't want to try pulling the spindle apart without replacement bearings on hand as there's a good chance I will end up damaging a bearing in the process.
shortykorte
Well-known member
I have it’s twin but mine’s worse looking. Works good though.
Hopefully you found out what bearings because my will probably need the same on day.
Any cost or additional info on power train swap.
Hopefully you found out what bearings because my will probably need the same on day.
Any cost or additional info on power train swap.
The 3 phase motor conversion was very easy. I just unbolted the old motor, drilled and tapped new mounting holes for my new motor, mounted it, hung the pulley stack using a 5/8-3/4" shaft adapter, drilled and tapped mounting holes for my aluminum VFD bracket, and threw it all together. It took a couple of hours all said and done. I love that the body is all fairly thick walled cast iron; I can drill and tap mounting holes pretty much anywhere I want them. I went with an adjustable link style drive belt so I could adjust the length as my motor has completely different dimensions than the old one (and the old belt was shot).
I just pulled the pulley stack and the spindle to measure the bearings. They appear to be two each of 6205-2Z and 6206-2Z shielded deep groove ball bearings. I've ordered a set of SKF bearings and will install them as soon as I can. I discovered that a seized bearing at some point in the past 80 years ate up the bottom of the pulley stack and created ~5 thou of clearance. I'm planning on trying to retain the bearing with Loctite 680 bearing retaining compound. That is likely the source of my horrible noise as just running the pulley stack with the spindle removed produces the same sound.
I just pulled the pulley stack and the spindle to measure the bearings. They appear to be two each of 6205-2Z and 6206-2Z shielded deep groove ball bearings. I've ordered a set of SKF bearings and will install them as soon as I can. I discovered that a seized bearing at some point in the past 80 years ate up the bottom of the pulley stack and created ~5 thou of clearance. I'm planning on trying to retain the bearing with Loctite 680 bearing retaining compound. That is likely the source of my horrible noise as just running the pulley stack with the spindle removed produces the same sound.
I can confirm that my drill press spindle uses 6205 bearings and the pulley stack uses 6206 bearings. I got them installed and it runs much better than before. There was what looked like at least 50 years of built up polymerized grease and oil in the spindle and quill so it took a lot of work to clean it all out and get it reassembled. It also turns out that the bearings in my used 3 phase motor are on their way out (I can now hear them over the much quieter spindle/pulley) so I have a set of 6205 and 6203 bearings on the way to address that problem this weekend.
Mangosteen
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- Jan 8, 2022
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- 7
Hi Outlaw from BC Canada. I have the same press I picked up last week with an 18-541 serial number. I am missing the the spur gear and Worm gear duo and the rack. I have the worm driver intact. Are your specs that you passed on the original details for someone to copy? Will your specs mate with my worm driver? This is a great post and many thanks for that 7 years later.OK, it’s been a month and I've barely had a chance to touch this puppy. (Life…)
I picked this guy up off Craig’s List for “scrap price” (the PO’s words when I picked it up.) He’d picked it up on a “You want a drill press? Come get this thing out of my rental property” deal, and as he already had a fairly new Summit Drill press near this size, he decided to just sell it fast to get the space in his shop back....
So it was priced at $125, and that’s what I gave the man. And happy to do so!
The bad: The motor is, for this DP; junk (1/3 hp….) and the 8 sheave pulley is missing. (I’m guessing the original motor was 3 phase, and the shaft was larger than the shaft on this motor so it got left off…). Other than that, it just needs a major cleanup/refurb! I have a couple other things I want to do on it. but more on that later:
The good? It’s a Canedy Otto (Pre 1949/Cincinnati era) Royal 18, VERY heavy (406 lbs w/Motor according to the Manual) 5-3/4”: stroke > 9” throat (18” dp…), it has a table crank, the head housing has crank capability, (which I want to make functional, I need a crank/Shaft, worm gear set, with a smaller drive gear for the rack gear also needed…)
Here is the Ad pics and language from CL:
And what I took when I got home:
For the history buffs, some Canedy-Otto History:
From http://vintagemachinery.org
The remnants of my Name plate map to the Pre-Cincinattii era, and so does the S/N as it is low and close to another known example of an earlier Candy Auto DP.
The Table is also a plus! Not a hint of an arc of shame, as some bright boy made up a 1” plate, drilled and tapped it, and it was bolted on from the bottom and THAT has the only Arc of shame!. (When I got the DP, the plate had been flipped over and looked clean…)
The front name plate after the Orange paint was removed:
And a sample of a similar plate; you can just see the ghost of the art on my plate, and the color is a match (It looks different in the pics, as I had to lighten one for visibility...).
The start of the strip down.
I took the 1/3 HP motor off and the motor mounting plate. I also got the Chuck and Arbor off, as well. The chuck action was not happening but it actually freed right up with some lube. It still needs a complete disassembly and detailing however.
I guestimated the weight of the remaining head at about 100 Lbs, and I wasn’t far off. But the expectation that my son and I could get a hold of the head and lift it off wasn’t realistic at all! We got to here, working it slow. But 100 + lbs at head level was not my idea of fun, so we did some rigging and I broke out a small chain fall I have, and we finished the lift off with that.
This was how far we had gotten when I stopped us and did the rigging. After getting it on the ground, we kept moving the holding collar up as we went a fractio of an inch at a time... I was glad we had:
Here is the head on its way to the ground:
I weighed it after it was on the ground: a bit over 112 lbs…
That’s as far as I had time for today, but the table lift crank housing and the post should come off easily.
I want to see if I can find a 6’ post as I don’t like the working height with only the stock 5’ post. 3-1/2” OD is what I need; might not be easy to find around here, not that many steel supply houses around anymore these days…
I also need to do some digging for the gears and gear rack for the head. The Rack will probably be the easiest piece…
This will be a slow process; I don’t have a lot of time to spare for the project right now, and in two weeks I lose an entire weekend…
Mangosteen
Member
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- Jan 8, 2022
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- 7
Hi Outlaw. Is your Worm driver specs from the original. I have 18-541 that is missing the worm gear and Spur duo. Plus I am missing the rack. Would it be safe for me to assume that the gears you mentioned for parts will mate to my original worm driver which is still there for me. I really want to get my table operating again.
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Mangosteen
Member
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- Jan 8, 2022
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Thanks for the speedy reply Outlaw. My version was made in USA so it should be the same as yours. Just wanting to clarify but the gear companies normally have the product that match your specs you mentioned for the table drive correct. If this all fits your my hero. I was worried about how to find the missing gears and came on this post by using a different search technique.
Mangosteen
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- Jan 8, 2022
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Wow I have unit 18-541 here in Western Canada. Probably made in the same season of the year as yours. What year do you think yours is from. With the low serial numbers both of ours must have been made the first year of production. Mine has some side fins. Still original paint. Pretty tickled to have it. There must be a catalogue around somewhere for the first year the Royal 18 was made.A few months ago I picked up a 1940's Royal 18 dill press in fairly rough shape. I've been using it ever since and love it. I switched the dying original motor to a 1.5 hp three phase motor and 1 hp VFD for immediate speed control (and sold the old motor to a collector!). My current problem is that it sounds frankly scary above 1500 rpm or so. My guess (and hope) is that it just needs new spindle bearings. Does anyone know what size bearings I need to source? I was having trouble finding the information online and I don't want to try pulling the spindle apart without replacement bearings on hand as there's a good chance I will end up damaging a bearing in the process.
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isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I bought my Canedy-Otto drill press from a Craigslist seller. The price was $100, take it or leave it, do not make an offer.
I built a cabinet/drill table for the C-O. I wanted to keep something of a vintage belt drive look. I combined it in the cabinet, under the drill-press. The exposed final drive is a leather5 centimeter (2 inch) wide flat belt. I had to make extra pulleys to complete the drive and change the drive speed. I need some belt dressing for the leather drive belt. I may have to shorten the leather belt.
None of this makes good sense, but I like the clicking of the belt lacing against the metal pulleys and the exposed finger catching drive.
I built a cabinet/drill table for the C-O. I wanted to keep something of a vintage belt drive look. I combined it in the cabinet, under the drill-press. The exposed final drive is a leather5 centimeter (2 inch) wide flat belt. I had to make extra pulleys to complete the drive and change the drive speed. I need some belt dressing for the leather drive belt. I may have to shorten the leather belt.
None of this makes good sense, but I like the clicking of the belt lacing against the metal pulleys and the exposed finger catching drive.
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![CANNEDY_OTTO_4[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/1432/1432916-3d22120d527335d59e9419b0240ea93f.jpg)
![CONE_PULLEY_2[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/1432/1432930-905bdcf8b0def45111fdd974441a21ef.jpg)
Mangosteen
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- Jan 8, 2022
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Hi Outlaw. I have ordered my parts. Thanks so much for the info. Regarding the coupling of the worm gear to the spur gear, what do you suggest is the best way. One is cast iron. The other is steel. How do you join them from your expert point of view please.
Mangosteen
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2022
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Wow. I have number 551 and your number 800. So close and near the beginning of the production. Great to see your photos.A few months ago I picked up a 1940's Royal 18 dill press in fairly rough shape. I've been using it ever since and love it. I switched the dying original motor to a 1.5 hp three phase motor and 1 hp VFD for immediate speed control (and sold the old motor to a collector!). My current problem is that it sounds frankly scary above 1500 rpm or so. My guess (and hope) is that it just needs new spindle bearings. Does anyone know what size bearings I need to source? I was having trouble finding the information online and I don't want to try pulling the spindle apart without replacement bearings on hand as there's a good chance I will end up damaging a bearing in the process.
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Mangosteen
Member
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- Jan 8, 2022
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Hi Outlaw and group. I can confirm that all the parts and specs Provided by Outlaw are correct except the model number for the rack. Go for the half inch deep one as his number was for the 3/4 inch deep one from that parts guy. Same width. I put everything together ( milled the rack to 0.470 ) and had the adjust the crank hole with a round file to give me more slack. It was too tight.
took about an eight of an inch away. It all works perfect. I joined the two gears with a sleeve. Pressed into place and pinned. Local machine shop did that for me.