Hey guys, I have a 30' x 30' metal building on slab and want to make a lean-to or outside storage area on the back side for the riding lawnmower, weedeater etc. The building is standard r panel construction and has a peak in the center of the back side where I want the covered storage. I want to either do a 6' straight angle roof about 10-12' long or do a peak style roof 8' wide and about 10-12' long. I have access to r panel and a few crimped center peak pieces for free so what is better and why would you choose? How do I flash it to the back side of the shop on that r panel or should I leave it a few inches away? I may add sides later, possibly doors but I doubt a floor.
outside covered storage question
- Thread starter nine4gmc
- Start date
Bump, getting ready to build this thing, how do I keep rain and **** from running down between the wall that is r-panel and the lean to that will be r-panel? I don't have any to look at in person, maybe someone with a metal building and attached lean to can post up pics or link to what they used?
readhead
Well-known member
The easy way would be to use some outside closure (rubber filler) and a roof -wall flashing over the new roof. The right way to do it would be to cut the existing wall sheets, install a heavy girt, install an eave girt to that, slip a roof to wall flashing behind the existing sheets and then install the roof sheets and screw everything together. There are a few more details but you get the idea.
captain14
Well-known member
Carl in Wisconsin. Just added a lean to his metal building. Make a look at his thread here on GJ. The pictures should give you some ideas
Carl_WI That's his name here.
Carl_WI That's his name here.
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dfiler2
Well-known member
I think the Captains right, here is a link to carl_wi thread, looks like the best way to do it IMO.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297809&highlight=Carl_WI
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297809&highlight=Carl_WI
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
This is the "money shot" http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5092945&postcount=25
From the above link "We cut the steel siding to fit the 2x8's (ledger) and glued, spiked and lag bolted it in. We then installed the J channel then the joist hangers."
The rest of the pictures are very self-explanatory.
The last couple of pictures show the flashing installed. You can use 8"-12" pre-painted rolled aluminum trim stock. You do need to put a bend in it half way across the width. The top half will slip BEHIND the wall panel and then on top of the roof panel. I'm not certain what is the best method of attaching the the flashing to the steel, but I would probably run a double bead of sealant/caulk between the flashing and the INSIDE of the R-panel and then once it is level, pop rivet it together with some large head aluminum rivets and backing washer.
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readhead
Well-known member
Keep in mind that the girts are not load bearing. All they do is provide a place to screw the sheeting to. Your plan is fine if you put a couple of posts in to carry the ledger. That can be done inside or outside.
I'll get pics when I get back home later. It's on the peak side of the building and my girt is 7' inside, the ground is lower on the outside so it would be about 8' at the building sloping to about 7' or so.
My dad said I could put 6x6 posts on the low side and a 2x6 along the girt. Then wrap a 2x6 from the one on the wall around the tops of the posts. He said I could do 2x4s as rafters and top them with 1x4s to nail the tin on.
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My dad said I could put 6x6 posts on the low side and a 2x6 along the girt. Then wrap a 2x6 from the one on the wall around the tops of the posts. He said I could do 2x4s as rafters and top them with 1x4s to nail the tin on.
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
You don't need 6x6 posts on the low side to hold up a tin roof with 2x4 rafters ! 4x4 even spaced 10' a part would be adequate. You can use a 2x6 ledger attached to the existing wall but I would through bolt to the posts (3.8" galvanized carriage bolts). Of course this flatten out the ribs in the tin unless you spend the time cutting spacers to go in between the ribs. 2x6 on top of the 4x4 posts should be fine also.
If you do NOT cut the tin, there is no effective way to install proper flashing and you will always have rain water running down that wall. All the caulking in the world will just be temporarily holding back the water.
If you do NOT cut the tin, there is no effective way to install proper flashing and you will always have rain water running down that wall. All the caulking in the world will just be temporarily holding back the water.
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Mlowery
Member
Look on Mueller for RPN #1482. You could make this work. If you needed 100' the freight may not hurt too bad. If I only needed 10-20' I would take standard headwall flashing and notch the high rib profile out of it.
You could make a pattern of the high rib only and lay it out on 12' centers. or set the vertical edge under a piece of panel and pencil the profile of the high ribs. Notch only the high ribs. Use stitch/lap-teck screws and a decent caulk like NP-1 you will be fine if you get your pattern tight.
Get your headwall flashing made with only a 2" vertical and you won't have as much to cut. Good pair of snips on 26ga. would be easy.
You could make a pattern of the high rib only and lay it out on 12' centers. or set the vertical edge under a piece of panel and pencil the profile of the high ribs. Notch only the high ribs. Use stitch/lap-teck screws and a decent caulk like NP-1 you will be fine if you get your pattern tight.
Get your headwall flashing made with only a 2" vertical and you won't have as much to cut. Good pair of snips on 26ga. would be easy.
Ruthless53
Well-known member
I described what I did in this thread. Zero leaks so far. Afternoon to set poles and the next afternoon we finished it. Really easy actually.i will look for pictures.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262377
Edit: best I've got
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262377
Edit: best I've got
Attachments
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big rig, 18 wheeler, rim liner, it is 10"wide, thick in center and thins out at both ends,
cut it so it's not round, and now you have a rubber gasket to put between the two..
A piece of rubber roofing from a flat roof would also work..
cut it so it's not round, and now you have a rubber gasket to put between the two..
A piece of rubber roofing from a flat roof would also work..
JamesW84
Well-known member
If you made it just a little lower than the current roof line, you could probably put your flashing underneath the trim that is on there at the roof line now, and run it over your new roof.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Have you made any decisions as to what you'll be doing for this project?
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
I have a question, how do you stop corrosion on the cut metal siding?
readhead
Well-known member
It really isn't a problem. Just leave a small gap at the bottom of sheets above a flashing.
I'll be looking into metal building suppliers for the corrugated/flat flashing I need like Ruthless posted about.
readhead
Well-known member
That flashing looks good but can be a pain in the ***. If the roof sheets get stretched or shrunk it won't fit. You can do the same thing with a roof to wall flashing and "outside" clouser.
Are you going to frame with steel or wood?
Are you going to frame with steel or wood?
It's storming outside so no pics but it will be framed with wood. The lean to is going on the peak side at about the 7' height and the building is 12'-14' on that side, not counting foundation. I'm not buying double the r-panel just to tuck in a flashing, I will let it rain in before doing that.
It looks like I will build it as planned, buy the correct flashing and silicone it to the wall side. The flat side will lay on top of the r-panel lean to roof and I will not worry about the little bit of rain/leaves and **** that get blown under it. This is outside storage, open to the elements I just want to reduce the water that would run down the vertical panels if I used nothing there. The correct flashing will do the trick.
The one with the arrow is what I plan to use. Corrugated against the vertical wall, flat over the lean to roof.
It looks like I will build it as planned, buy the correct flashing and silicone it to the wall side. The flat side will lay on top of the r-panel lean to roof and I will not worry about the little bit of rain/leaves and **** that get blown under it. This is outside storage, open to the elements I just want to reduce the water that would run down the vertical panels if I used nothing there. The correct flashing will do the trick.
The one with the arrow is what I plan to use. Corrugated against the vertical wall, flat over the lean to roof.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
You better buy the worlds best caulk and use a lot of it when applying that corrugated side to the vertical wall. ALL transition flashing is designed to slip BEHIND the vertical wall. Caulk will work ... for awhile !
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Thanks !