For cars and woodworking; why would there be a need for a 12' high door?
The first thing to consider will be the largest vehicle that will go through that door.
If you have a need for a 12' high door, go at least that wide, or wider, for a more balanced appearance.
If planning for a car lift, the reason for a 12' or taller ceiling exists, but the door can still be sized for the vehicles that will pass through it.
I put a 16' wide X 14' high door on my shop because I needed the height for working on semi trucks. 18' wide would have been better yet, but I put that 16' wide door on a 28' gable end that also includes a walk-in door. I wanted to retain the remainder of the 28' as shear wall.
Wider makes it easier to maneuver a large vehicle, or multiple vehicles using the same door.. But the extra height will be of no value unless it is actually needed..
The expense of having multiple doors vs a single, wider door with one set of tracks and one opener may be worth doing some pencil work on..
Door tracks can go straight up the wall to the ceiling, rather than cobble up the overhead space in a stall that is a common complaint on standard garage door tracks.
Larry G mentioned about having doors on the eave side of a garage. I had a new 26' x 28' car attached garage build that way in 1976.. The best thing I ever did to that garage was tear it down, add 30' of footings and slab, and built the new one with the door on the gable end like I described.The roof line was changed from north-south to east-west. I wanted to keep the overhead door facing the east.. The damn thing is: I wanted to build it that way back in 1976, but to 36' x 36' dimensions. The house would have been turned a quarter turn also.. The knowledge of the elders pleaded that it would look goofy from the road, and the house would be hidden by the garage... I fixed that when I planted enough trees to isolate that blasted dusty gravel road from the house anyway.
The original 26' x 28' garage footings, which I reused, were footings, 4' wall, and slab all poured separately.. I regret not using the same method when adding the 30' slab with footings. That 18" of concrete wall is better suited for dealing with snow runoff from vehicles and washing the floor. My original floor was sloped toward the overhead doors; in addition to having a floor drain.. When I poured the new floor, the entire 28' x 56' length was poured level. The reason for this being level was because I wanted a perfectly level floor for working on large projects that need a "level" surface.. I do have heat tubing in the floor, but during the winter months, the snow melt from the vehicles can make a mess. So, if Your plan is to have the floor sloped toward the overhead doors; You would likely desire to have all the overhead doors on the same wall.. Having doors on more than one wall would require having the adjacent floor sloped toward that door!! On a 32' x 36' shop like you are planning, that could be a challenge. When it comes to current building codes pertaining to floor drains and floor slopes in a garage, best to review your local building codes before getting too far with the planning.
I mentioned a few things I would never do again; polexican23 and Tractor Jeff mentioned their short-comings with too low and too narrow of doors.. Our goof-ups are all ready spoken for, so whatever You do; don't copy our goof-ups
