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Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

1stwarrior95

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Dec 29, 2007
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647
This isn't good, no?

Floorjack5.jpg


Floorjack6.jpg


I was hoping for the overload valve being backed off being the problem.
No such luck. The overload valve was tightened all the way down. I'm assuming that's what caused the seal blowing out?

Since this one has some sort of cup seal it looks like instead of the o-ring like yours, is it still feasable to rebuild it? Where could I get the seal? You maybe? LOL
 
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Hiball

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This isn't good, no?

Floorjack5.jpg


Floorjack6.jpg


I was hoping for the overload valve being backed off being the problem.
No such luck. The overload valve was tightened all the way down. I'm assuming that's what caused the seal blowing out?

Since this one has some sort of cup seal it looks like instead of the o-ring like yours, is it still feasable to rebuild it? Where could I get the seal? You maybe? LOL

I just need some measurements, BE CAREFUL not to lose that cross pin, inside that hole is a tiny itty bitty pin. Take some tape and mask around it now im warning you.

On another note.. No the Ram cup has deterorated but on the plus side you have one of the better overseas jacks.
 

1stwarrior95

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I just need some measurements, BE CAREFUL not to lose that cross pin, inside that hole is a tiny itty bitty pin. Take some tape and mask around it now im warning you.

On another note.. No the Ram cup has deterorated but on the plus side you have one of the better overseas jacks.

Good news then! I'll PM ya on the measurements.

Thanks for the warning on the cross pin too. (I wiggled it around a little to see if it'd come out, then decided I'd better leave it be...) LOL

:thumbup::thumbup:
 

sporkedtospec

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"If your jack was working fine except for leaking write down how many revolutions it took and upon reinstallation set it back to factory settings. If you dont remember or fail to head this warning 2 full turns back from full set is a good starting point."

I read in a previous thread you advised to set the screw all the way and back it out 1/2 turn. Here you advise to back it 2 full turns. Not calling it out, simply curious to know if 1/2 turn is still safe to try as a fix.

I have a problem with my "new to me" jack leaking down and found that it was around 2 full rotations away from full set with oil over the screw head in the cavity. 1/2 turn would make sense to solve the leak down, but don't want to risk blowing out a seal while under weight.

It's an older Larin, heavy and surprisingly well constructed with a built in foot foot pedal pump to set the jack in place, and a goofy handle with a lever to engage the on off valve.
 

240sxguy

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Hiball, somewhat off topic but I have a craftsman aluminum/steel hybrid jack. I think its the same pump as the ones you picture. Thank you!

Do you have any good and reliable source for replacement casters? My jack lost a bunch of bearings from one caster.

Evan
 
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Hiball

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Hiball, somewhat off topic but I have a craftsman aluminum/steel hybrid jack. I think its the same pump as the ones you picture. Thank you!

Do you have any good and reliable source for replacement casters? My jack lost a bunch of bearings from one caster.

Evan

With a little info i can get casters, I might recommend just buying the correct ball bearing size and fixing the old one if its possible to still fasten down. It will be cheaper for you in the long run.
 

Flathead Youngin'

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How in the world did I miss this thread? Very timely for me....

A buddy gave me a leaking floor jack several years ago. He claimed it was a sealed housing. I never looked, kicked it out of my way for a few years and then scrapped it.

About a year ago, my "newest" jack started not pumping all the way up. I shoved it aside thinking it was probably a chicom sealed one too. I just haven't had time to chuck it out the door yet.

However, this thread has me wanting to go home and tear her down. Where does a guy get the seals? I see you are offering but I'd like to know for future reference....
 
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Hiball

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How in the world did I miss this thread? Very timely for me....

A buddy gave me a leaking floor jack several years ago. He claimed it was a sealed housing. I never looked, kicked it out of my way for a few years and then scrapped it.

About a year ago, my "newest" jack started not pumping all the way up. I shoved it aside thinking it was probably a chicom sealed one too. I just haven't had time to chuck it out the door yet.

However, this thread has me wanting to go home and tear her down. Where does a guy get the seals? I see you are offering but I'd like to know for future reference....

As far as Orings etc, Im recomending that people buy the Metric Oring kit from HF. Its probably gonna have everything you need for the pump, Tank nut etc. IF your jack has a Poly Cup on it, I can source them with some measurements.
 

Flathead Youngin'

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Ok, I'm a few sandwiches short of a picnic.....

I clicked on your link, you sell stuff. You are the type of "source" I was talking about. I knew you didn't just find these specialized parts laying around.

Cool. I'll buy from you when I get there.

I forgot to add in my original post, thanks a bunch for sharing. Some people like to keep info. like this close to their chest.....

When I tear mine down- might be a few months- I'll post my results here.....

As far as Orings etc, Im recomending that people buy the Metric Oring kit from HF. Its probably gonna have everything you need for the pump, Tank nut etc. IF your jack has a Poly Cup on it, I can source them with some measurements.
 

MrRocket

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Hiball, Check your PM. I have tried to send you something twice and my PM shows no sent items. Anyway, wanting to know if you have recieved anything. You should check your Paypal account if you have not recieved a PM from me, thanks.
 
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Hiball

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Hiball, Check your PM. I have tried to send you something twice and my PM shows no sent items. Anyway, wanting to know if you have recieved anything. You should check your Paypal account if you have not recieved a PM from me, thanks.

Paul your spring shipped Monday, You have to change something in your profile settings to show "Sent" Pm's. I responded via pm also.
 

MrRocket

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I recieved it that evening and intsalled it on the jack. It is a bit smaller that the one I need but it will work until I come across the right size. I guess it needs to be a bit bigger guage wire and needs to be a bit longer at both ends. I'm glad to have something keeping my handle from falling down. If you find something else that might be a better fit let me know.Thanks Hiball
 

IONH

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Hiball, great write up!

I have a couple of jacks sitting in my garage. One at first would jack up a car and slowly let it decline again. Eventually it wouldn't even jack the car up at all but the head would still lift until it met resistance (weight of the vehicle).

The other stopped jacking up one day. If I had lifted the car up already somehow, it would hold the car (think I was just playing around and testing the point of failure). It just wouldn't jack the car up on its own.

I know you would probably rather that jacks with symptoms like the above be fully rebuilt. I am just not confident enough to do that if I don't absolutely need to. Can you make an educated guess, using your illustrations, which particular seals failed on mine based on the symptoms provided?

As a side note, neither leaked fluid from any part of the piston. I did try to fill and bleed one but it was already full and no air bubbles came out so I do not think that is the issue either.

Thanks in advance if you can help!
 
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Hiball

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Hiball, great write up!

I have a couple of jacks sitting in my garage. One at first would jack up a car and slowly let it decline again. Eventually it wouldn't even jack the car up at all but the head would still lift until it met resistance (weight of the vehicle).

The other stopped jacking up one day. If I had lifted the car up already somehow, it would hold the car (think I was just playing around and testing the point of failure). It just wouldn't jack the car up on its own.

I know you would probably rather that jacks with symptoms like the above be fully rebuilt. I am just not confident enough to do that if I don't absolutely need to. Can you make an educated guess, using your illustrations, which particular seals failed on mine based on the symptoms provided?

As a side note, neither leaked fluid from any part of the piston. I did try to fill and bleed one but it was already full and no air bubbles came out so I do not think that is the issue either.

Thanks in advance if you can help!

These jacks are very simple, Its sounds like a valve system problem to me, Possibly the overload. Without taking it apart you wont be able to rule out the Ram cup being the culprit though.
 

IONH

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These jacks are very simple, Its sounds like a valve system problem to me, Possibly the overload. Without taking it apart you wont be able to rule out the Ram cup being the culprit though.
Thanks Hiball. I'll have to take a look at it sometime and see if I can figure it out. Would be nice to get one of my full size jacks back.
 
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Hiball

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This is the best import jack repair thread on the internet, period.

Thanks!!! This project was actually hard for me, I can have one of these jacks tore down, rebuilt and put back together in 15 min. It took me like 2 hours to organize pics and give a detailed description.
 

CmbtApl

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Jan 20, 2007
Messages
11
What a great thread. I too have pulled out my hair with the Chinese jacks... Currently, I have both a Larin (quick lift) jack and a Craftsman 3ton jack. Both behave the same....

when there is no load on the jack, it won't pump up. It acts like there is air in the cylinder, pump, pump, pump, up, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, up. Once it gets some weight on it it seems to pump up better, but it is still iffy. It holds once it gets some significant pressure on it...the car doesn't drop and everything works pretty well if I can pump it up.

I don't see any fluid leaks anywhere and I've tried bleeding it by pumping the handle with the fill port open and the release valve open. (Is that correct?) It appears to be full of fluid as well.

I would appreciate any suggestions as to what the problem may be and how to go about fixing it.

Thanks
 
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Hiball

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What a great thread. I too have pulled out my hair with the Chinese jacks... Currently, I have both a Larin (quick lift) jack and a Craftsman 3ton jack. Both behave the same....

when there is no load on the jack, it won't pump up. It acts like there is air in the cylinder, pump, pump, pump, up, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, up. Once it gets some weight on it it seems to pump up better, but it is still iffy. It holds once it gets some significant pressure on it...the car doesn't drop and everything works pretty well if I can pump it up.

I don't see any fluid leaks anywhere and I've tried bleeding it by pumping the handle with the fill port open and the release valve open. (Is that correct?) It appears to be full of fluid as well.

I would appreciate any suggestions as to what the problem may be and how to go about fixing it.

Thanks

Its really hard to diagnose a jack over the internet but the first place i would look at is the condition of the Pump seals. They work in 2 different ways, 1 is pulling oil from the resevoir into the pump cylinder then reversing the oil back into the Ram. 1 Leaking/Bypassing Pump will quickly fill the valves with air and oil if its bad. Pictures of the Jack Unit itself?
 

CmbtApl

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Jan 20, 2007
Messages
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Ok, thank you.

I have attached the pictures of my Craftsman jack. It looks just like the one in your thread. When I try to bleed it, it looks like there may be some tiny bubbles in the jack oil but I'm not certain if I am introducing them or if they are a symptom of the problem.

Thanks again for your help.

Paul
 

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Hiball

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Ok, thank you.

I have attached the pictures of my Craftsman jack. It looks just like the one in your thread. When I try to bleed it, it looks like there may be some tiny bubbles in the jack oil but I'm not certain if I am introducing them or if they are a symptom of the problem.

Thanks again for your help.

Paul

Pull those 2 bolts, 1 on each side that hold the handle assembly on. You then can pull the pump straight up, Inside the cylinder there will probably be 1 oring and a backup (possibly 2) they sit in recessed grooves. Using a pic you can pull the Oring out and inspect it to see if its Hardened, or has any flat spots, tears etc.
 

mikestevens1

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Dec 28, 2009
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HiBall,
Great write up. You inspired me to fix my 18 year old craftsman 3 ton jack. My jack will only lift a few inches before it stops. It must be the overload valve you mentioned in your write up, right? I have the ball, the seat that sits on the ball, heavy spring, then top piece. The top piece and set screw appear to be one piece with an O ring between the threads and set screw/screw driver slot.
Or am I simply low on fluid?

Thanks for your help.

"This is the workings of a typical overload, You will have a small ball that sits in the seat, A Upper seat with a *** to sit inside the heavy spring, Then top piece and as you can guess the *** goes down inside the spring and set screw tightens down on top of the flat."
 
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Hiball

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HiBall,
Great write up. You inspired me to fix my 18 year old craftsman 3 ton jack. My jack will only lift a few inches before it stops. It must be the overload valve you mentioned in your write up, right? I have the ball, the seat that sits on the ball, heavy spring, then top piece. The top piece and set screw appear to be one piece with an O ring between the threads and set screw/screw driver slot.
Or am I simply low on fluid?

Thanks for your help.

"This is the workings of a typical overload, You will have a small ball that sits in the seat, A Upper seat with a *** to sit inside the heavy spring, Then top piece and as you can guess the *** goes down inside the spring and set screw tightens down on top of the flat."

At 18 years of age it could be numerous things, The overload and oil level are things that can be checked rather easily. Theres no harm in checking the overload and Oil before tearing it down. Remember the OIL doesnt go in thru the valve but via the fill plug on the resevoir. Also Normally the the overload will only prevent the jack from lifting a load, If it wont lift while light you have other problems, which could be a Low oil problem. But then you need to figure out where the oil went? It didnt evaporate.
 

mikestevens1

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Dec 28, 2009
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Thanks for the quick reply. I just added a few ounces of jack oil to the resevoir. Mine has the rubber plug. How the heck do you get that plug back in?


________________
 

mikestevens1

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HiBall,
I got the plug in and it works!!!!!:thumbup: Raises kinda slow when it gets up half way. I'll probably break it down and rebuild it per your write up in another 18 years! Thanks again:bowdown:
 
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Hiball

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Hiball, which harborfreight O-Ring Assortment kit do you recommend? HF has 50 piece kits, 180 piece kits, 382 piece kits.

Here's a link to the 3 kits:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/?category=&q=O-ring


I have a ALLIED HYDRAULICS 2 ton jack.


I found a picture of a ALLIED HYDRAULICS 2 ton jack:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1743227745.html

You need the Metric set, Its a Blue box and it will be your Buna Nitrile material, Stay away from Viton.
 
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Hiball

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Why do you recommend staying away from Viton?

Cole-Parmer Chemical Compatibility lists Viton as having an excellent rating with hydraulic oil, both synthetic & petro. What else are you concerned with?

Nothing wrong with Viton seals but its a waste of money, They are generally more expensive and designed to be used around Heat. They offer the same sealing characteristices as BN and demanda a premium price. About the only time Viton Orings is in Farm Equipment cylinders where they are around Engine heat etc..
 
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Hiball

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HF does not have a Blue box.

HF has a red box set (382 piece) that is Nitrile material for $11.99, Sale: $7.97

http://www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-2901.html

-------------------------------------------------------

The HF 50 piece kit (Only: $1.27) does not state what it is made of:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-piece-o-ring-assortment-96877.html

They do have a blue box in there store, All those black Orings are gonna be Buna Nitrile and that is the material you need. You are looking for a Metric Oring set, as all the ones you linked are SAE and there isnt a single Sae Oring on any IMPORT jack.
 

homesale

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May 16, 2010
Messages
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Hiball, are the Buna Nitrile metric o-rings sold separately at Ace Hardware or at any other hardware stores?

What do you use to clean off old hydraulic oil thats get on the jack during dissassembly? Do you use denatured alcohol?
 

sdowney717

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Mar 17, 2010
Messages
964
when I rebuilt my china jack that looked exactly like this, I bought just the orings I needed from carquest. Napa ought to have the orings too. All I needed was the one that goes in the cap nut.
I wash parts with dish soap and warm water and use a scrunge and a toothbrush.
If its really greasy, I start with a little gasoline and spray them off with the hose.

I finish up any cleaning with air pressure.

be careful with the nylon plastic big seal that seals the base to the outer cylinder. I could see that getting damaged easily.
 
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Hiball

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Hiball, are the Buna Nitrile metric o-rings sold separately at Ace Hardware or at any other hardware stores?

What do you use to clean off old hydraulic oil thats get on the jack during dissassembly? Do you use denatured alcohol?

My Ace store doesnt carry loose Metric Orings, They carry some plumbing orings only and they appeared to be mainly SAE. I use a degreaser and Pressure wash everything, Its not rocket science. You sometimes lose a little paint in the process but its all good.
 

bruce69camaro

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Aug 2, 2010
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Hi,

I'm new to this site and just recently, I've had the same jack, Sears 214.12400 go out on me. I've had it for around 20 years and it has been a great jack.

Maybe you can tell me what I may need to do or look for, but what is happeneing is, I go to lift my racecar and it starts to lift and then it looses all it's pressure.

Does this sound like a total rebuild or could it be something else?

thank you,

Bruce
 
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