Ok I will try that. So set the shank to a minimal distance so almost all the way tightened, take the whole assembly and start to thread it into the block making sure the shank is in the square washer. Bottom out the assembly. Now at this point spin the gear counter clockwise, you said rotate the assembly as well, what do you mean by this? After I've tightened all the way down I'm going to re-loosen it?
So one more newbie question when I'm spinning the gear by hand and not using the handle I spin clockwise to drop the jack and counter clockwise to raise the jack, with that in order for the jack to go down, is the stem supposed to keep keep the ball down when lowering the jack?
The release assembly is compromised to two parts, the outer portion that has a Hex that threads into the block and then the stem that is connected to the gear. If the washer isn’t secured by by the outer hex portion the stem won’t go up and down to allow the jack to operate correctly, thus the entire assembly needs to bottom out, to prevent leaks around the threaded portion. If there is stem leaks, there is a Oring inside.
When lowering the jack, the stem will rise, allowing pressurized oil to lift the ball and oil to find it way back into the reservoir.
Ok so after the nut bottoms out, seating the washer and coupler am I wanting then to bottom out the stem to fully close the valve?
The stem during operation will always move up and down following operation of the gear. Where the problem lies, is the a lot of time when people reinstall the gear assembly, the outer portion never bottoms out and secures the washer. When this happens you need to keep raising the stem, while threading the assembly into the block to make sure it’s seated.
Ok I understand now, Thank you!! And so the second question if you don't mind is the screw for the "working" valve won't sit flush like it did when I took it off so I'm getting some seepage through there, and when I raise the jack it holds but won't go back down.
if there was a shop nearby that would do it I'd go. But this thread gave me the willingness and now I just want to conquer thos darn thingOk I understand now, Thank you!! And so the second question if you don't mind is the screw for the "working" valve won't sit flush like it did when I took it off so I'm getting some seepage through there, and when I raise the jack it holds but won't go back down.
Also I went back and was reading the thread from start to finish again, should I not be using this kind of fluid? It's the only fluid they had at the store near me.
If you're referring to the seal that keeps fluid in the reservoir, then you haven't fixed anything other than a leak to the outside world. The things I would look at are the pump seal, the main ram seal, is the release valve closing properly, is there an issue with the working valve. What's your jack?
Both valves seem to be working correctly. And the seal i replaced was the one that seals between the cylinder and the resevoir at the valve block. It is a lincoln 2 ton. I will look into the ram and pump seal. The first pic is the seal that i replaced in the center. Looking at my piston it looks a little diferent than others shown.
