If memory serves, the upper gear/stem sits in a hole (bottom) and most are held in place with a cotter key. I’m assuming you haven’t removed the lower release gear and didn’t get it seated deep enough upon reassembly and that’s causing the issue?
Thanks for your reply @Hiball. I have never disassembled the jack nor did my father when he was alive (it was his jack and it passed down to me). I am not sure if he got the jack new or used, but am 100% positive he never disassembled it. I definitely would have remembered that. So are you saying I need to reseat the gear? And if so, is it the upper gear or lower gear in the photo I shared?
It’s hard to tell how far the two gears are off, when you lower the handle can you get the gears to mesh up by simply turning the handle one way or the other? If you follow the upper gear down, you find that the bottom stem protrudes thru the bottom of the handle assemble and is secured with either a cotter pin or I’ve even seen some that have a nut. It prevents the assembly from riding up too high.
So I thought the gear you circled was the gear with the cotter pin as the other gear looks bolted/screwed to the base of the floor jack.It’s hard to tell how far the two gears are off, when you lower the handle can you get the gears to mesh up by simply turning the handle one way or the other? If you follow the upper gear down, you find that the bottom stem protrudes thru the bottom of the handle assemble and is secured with either a cotter pin or I’ve even seen some that have a nut. It prevents the assembly from riding up too high.
Good to know there is a way to fix it. Now I just need to figure out how.
When you have the handle in the upright position, It’s common for gear mesh to be off a bit and hard to operate, but the handle should operate both gears. The majority of time you are operating the release the handle will be in the operating range of the actual pump piston. IF you follow that upper gear/stem down, you need to make sure the stem is secured thru the lower assembly. It also appears that the handle assembly is missing the bolt to secure the handle, with the handle pinned it also keeps the stem/gear secured.
I think you are right because the handle comes out of the lower assembly easily. If I bring the handle down to be in the range of the pump piston I have to be extra cautious not to accidently pull the handle out of the lower assembly otherwise the lower assembly will snap back up to the upright position. If the jack is in far underneath the car with lower assembly only slightly sticking out from under the car, I have found it hard to get the handle back into the lower assembly as it is in the upright position and when I try to get the handle in, it hitting the front or side of the car depending on where I placed the jack. I don’t think my dad got the jack new then because that bolt to secure the handle was never there when he got it.
So I found this video on YouTube where the guy in the video has the exact same problem as me. A couple of guys commented in the comments section to tighten the bolts on the side of the jack. I will try that on the weekend and see if that fixes it.
We aren’t talking about a lot of moving parts/adjustments that affect how the gears line up. It should be fairly obvious, but making sure that upper gear and most importantly the bottom stem is seated and secured is a easy check.
I may have just busted whatever tube you are mentioning on the Speedy Lift floor jack I have.
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I put in whatever effort is needed when I feel like it.
Hiball,Well after numerous requests ive decided to put together a tutorial that will assist you do it yourselfers resurect/maintain your Taiwan Jack. This tutorial will cover the Main version of these jacks and i will try to include any variances that you might encounter. Again your jack might be different in color or possible fastener type but it will share the same hydraulic system along with location of key componenets for your typical Overseas 2-3 ton floor jack, This doesnt include Quick Lift Jacks as they will be a tad bit different and include another valve system. If you have any questions feel free to contact me with a Picture and I will assist you. Enjoy GJ and Have a Happy Holidays.
This is your typical Overseas design that i had sitting in the back of the shop, I had cabbaged the rear casters off this jack and it was a perfect candidate for this write up.
Well to start off you will need to remove the handle assembly, I used a impact to speed up the process.
Once both upper bolts are removed you can remove the Handle assembly and the handle return spring, On some jacks you will have 2 of these, 1 on each side. This particular model only has 1.
Handle assembly Gone.
Next you will remove the lower bolts, these are fastened by a 3/8 allen head so you can get to them without removing the wheels. While you are here you will notice the silver bar at the rear of the jack this is just a stiffening brace held on by nuts that protrude thru the frame, this needs to come out.
Once you remove all bolts you can pick up on the rear of the frame and slide it forward, This will expose the next step.
Using a Prybar or Screwdriver slip the return spring off, On some jacks there will be 2 of these, This one has only 1.
Using a Cotter Key remover tool or side cutters Pull the key out.
We are now ready to head over to the vise.
Once secured in the Vise you can pull the Pump straight out, There will be no seals on it as they are inside Jack.
This particular style uses a flat recessed seat that uses a ball to seal the unit, There are different models and yours might have a Needle valve instead of this one. If thats the case there wont be a small ball as indicated by the next Pic. Remove the ball and keep it seperate.
Next step is to take the working valve apart, This particular model uses a allen head, Most use standard screwdriver Head.
After removing the socket head you will need a small pen magnet to remove the inner workings. This particular model uses 2 balls, the biggest ball on top and the smaller ball in the bottom seat. (keep these ball seperate from other parts) There will also be other styles in different models etc, Some will use spacers in between the balls and even springs can be found etc. Regardless keep track of how things come apart and in which order and you will be good.
The next valve to the right of the release is your overload valve, i cant tell you how many jacks ive had brought in that the only thing that was wrong was this valve had backed itself off and wouldnt let the jack lift the apropriate tonnage. Anyways First you must take the Dust cover off, Sometimes it will have a warning "DO NOT ADJUST" sticker on it. As you can see there is another Standard Screwdriver Socket inside the Valve, Using a small enough screwdriver so that you dont muck in the internal threads up. IMPORTANT****** First count the revolutions it takes to tighten the inside set screw completely down, On this particular jack it took 6. That is too many and as i stated earlier these do back off over time. If your jack was working fine except for leaking write down how many revolutions it took and upon reinstallation set it back to factory settings. If you dont remember or fail to head this warning 2 full turns back from full set is a good starting point. The overload is very important and is designed to keep you from overloading the jack and possibly rupturing a seal. This is why it is important you follow the tonnage guidlines and DO NOT crank this down all the way. There is NO way to set this Properly without having a Test station.
This is the workings of a typical overload, You will have a small ball that sits in the seat, A Upper seat with a *** to sit inside the heavy spring, Then top piece and as you can guess the *** goes down inside the spring and set screw tightens down on top of the flat. Sometimes theses are tricky to reinstall so here is a hint: Insert the small ball verifying that its is in the seat, Grab some wheel bearing grease or a heavy grease, Dab a little on the tip, insert into the spring and do the same for the top piece then drop as 1 piece down int the valve. Ive seen people get that first piece in there sideways and then when you crank the set screw down it damages things. Take your time and visually check what your doing.
Next you will need a Pipe Wrench or the apropriate Socket to remove the Tank nut. Keeping a pan handy to catch the oil.
Once you unthread the Tank nut the pressure will be released from the resevoir and you dissasemble.
And here we are at Paydirt, We finally got to the Ram Cup to verify what version we have. This particular version is the Oring sitting inside the Hollow Cup shell. It by far is the Most common found in 95% of your newer jacks and is Not the Best designed sealing surface, but it is Cheap.
Verify that there is no internal Damage, The jack was full of oil so there wasnt any Rust or Pitting. Looks Good
Ok now that we have the jack apart lets get working on removing the seals, 1st off lets remove the Orings on the Pump. Using a small Pic (I prefer the Snap on angle) Dig the Orings out being carefull not to damage the Backups, As they can probably be re-used. This particular jack has 2 Oring grooves machined inside, Some only have 1. If you have 2 the order of the Oring/backup is ORING on bottom in each groove and beveled side down Backup on top of the Oring. Lost? Keep Following?
Its hard to determine by these pics but this is a backup, Its not broken its split to allow easier installation. A back up has a flat side and a beveled side to allow the oring to sit inside and keep it properly shaped under pressure.
This Picture shows everything that came out of the Pump side.
Next seal is the Tank Nut seal, Using a Pic Remove this and set aside.
I think the main ram seal must be good, it does not leak down. AND this, I can lift the front saddle of the jack up and it stays up, like it fills cylinder with oil. That is one way to set the jack higher before you start pumping the handle, which I have done a couple times lifting the car and it then lifted the car fine.
The one that has a cover over the adjustment screw should be the overload, the one that can be adjusted from up top is the speed bypass.
Are you talking about the split type backups that mate to the Oring?
That's the piece I need. Through the jacket is labeled as a 214.12400 it looks more like the 214.12000 I see in some of the parts diagraphs.
By "BN" are you referring to Buna-N backup rings?
Pat-
Try Hydraulic Parts Supply in Sawyer KS, Phone: (620) 594-2247
Thank you!!
Not sure if this is still going but, I do get seepage through my threads on the relief valve nut on my Allied Hydraulic HDJ2-10 2 ton jack. I also noticed some coming out through the center post which I think I'd need a new o-ring? And at this moment my jack won't go back down after taking everything apart and cleaning. My release valve has a round coupler with a square in the middle. The "square" that goes into that washer is attached to the release valve. Am I supposed to have that all the way tightened up?
Were you ever able to get the leak to stop? I have the same issue coming from the threads as well as on top of the gear! When putting your release valve back in, did you have the pin all the way tightend to the valve or leave it a little loose? Thanks!Finally got around to test the jack on the project car.
Frist issue, as soon as it had just a little weight, oil started pouring out of the check valve screw. It stops after some major tightening, I don't remember it being that tight coming off.
Then it would just lift take the weight off the spring but would not lift the car. I started making 1/2 turns till I could raise the wheel. I made 1 and 1/2 turns. I only backed it off 2 turns, does that sound right.
All in all, it did raise the wheels, so it was strong enough to raise the driver side of a GP. I let sit there all day and it held. So I feel pretty good about it.
Did not see any leaks.
The washer needs to be seated in place by the Release threaded portion, if not, it will just simply spin and not allow the release stem to lower and raise when the gear is rotated. The most common issue people have when reinstalling the release assembly is that the stem bottoms out before the release assembly is seated. In order to properly seat the assembly, start with stem in height that will allow you thread the assembly in, all while keeping the square shank inside the washer. Once it bottoms out, rotate the gear to raise stem, while also rotating the assembly to till it’s completely seated.
