Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

[rollerguide]

Wouldn't be to terrible of a piece to manufacture, just don't use too thick of a washer because it will change the contact point between the 2 gears.

i drilled a regular on the bench drill and filed it into a square and got it going.
then after finishing things up and cleaning the garage found the original missing piece.
So took the one i made out and dropped the original unit.
working like a charm
now gotta jack up the truck and see if it holds

thanks a lot for the detailed build thread. wish i saw this before. i would have a far quicker rebuild

 

[Hiball]

i drilled a regular on the bench drill and filed it into a square and got it going.
then after finishing things up and cleaning the garage found the original missing piece.
So took the one i made out and dropped the original unit.
working like a charm
now gotta jack up the truck and see if it holds

thanks a lot for the detailed build thread. wish i saw this before. i would have a far quicker rebuild

That's the way things go..

 

[luv2rallye]

Hi: I'm the original owner of a model 328.12001 (serial 137143019) 1.5ton floor jack from Sears. It has been working fine with no leaks but I decided to replace the oil since it's been 6 years since last time I did it. This jack is for home use and I don't use it a lot. I removed the filler plug, and since it wouldn't all drain out, I also removed the release valve (which has a needle valve instead of the ball) and the plunger. I then tipped it upside down in a pan to let it drain out and when done reinstalled the plunger and pumped a few times to get out the last. I then reinstalled everything (was careful to put back everything correctly) and added new jack oil. Now the main arm goes up when I push the plunger down but immediately goes down when the plunger goes up. There are no visable leaks. I checked the safety overload valve (which has a needle valve BTW) and it looks fine (was at 1 1/2 turns). I even tryed it at all different turns (including 0) but made no difference. The other valve (called suction/delivery assembly in the manual) has a large slotted screw holding it in (instead of the allen wrench screw shown in your tutorial). I cannot get this to turn to remove it. The metal is so soft any screwdriver just turns in the slot mashing it. It also appears to be "pinned" at 2 places on the screws edge (180 apart) with a very tiny notch which I assume is what's holding it. Any ideas what my problem is? It used to work fine before I tryed to replace the oil. And it never had and still doesn't have any visable leaks.

 

[Hiball]

Hi: I'm the original owner of a model 328.12001 (serial 137143019) 1.5ton floor jack from Sears. It has been working fine with no leaks but I decided to replace the oil since it's been 6 years since last time I did it. This jack is for home use and I don't use it a lot. I removed the filler plug, and since it wouldn't all drain out, I also removed the release valve (which has a needle valve instead of the ball) and the plunger. I then tipped it upside down in a pan to let it drain out and when done reinstalled the plunger and pumped a few times to get out the last. I then reinstalled everything (was careful to put back everything correctly) and added new jack oil. Now the main arm goes up when I push the plunger down but immediately goes down when the plunger goes up. There are no visable leaks. I checked the safety overload valve (which has a needle valve BTW) and it looks fine (was at 1 1/2 turns). I even tryed it at all different turns (including 0) but made no difference. The other valve (called suction/delivery assembly in the manual) has a large slotted screw holding it in (instead of the allen wrench screw shown in your tutorial). I cannot get this to turn to remove it. The metal is so soft any screwdriver just turns in the slot mashing it. It also appears to be "pinned" at 2 places on the screws edge (180 apart) with a very tiny notch which I assume is what's holding it. Any ideas what my problem is? It used to work fine before I tryed to replace the oil. And it never had and still doesn't have any visable leaks.

Well.. I would first give it a good bleeding, correct oil level, release position, pump 6-8 times to flush the circuit, then Try the jack. Your scenario represents a few issues which could be Air bound, poorly seated release mechanism due to improper installation (Not likely as the handle mimic would be less pronounced) and or a upper ball seating issue on the working valve , which is the one that you can't get into. The dimples on the cover are to keep it From backing off, a simple hand impact will make quick work of them, it's possible that when inverting the jack you ingested some **** into the valve system and it's causing issues, next problem.. Is the **** part of a deteriorating ucup?

 

[luv2rallye]

I did the "flush the circuit" with no change. I tryed a hand impact on the working valve screw slot but it won't budge (note that it's never been off). There was visably no **** in the old oil. It was just normally discolored a little like you'd expect for 6 year old oil. Any other ideas on how to get the working valve screw off?

 

[Hiball]

I did the "flush the circuit" with no change. I tryed a hand impact on the working valve screw slot but it won't budge (note that it's never been off). There was visably no **** in the old oil. It was just normally discolored a little like you'd expect for 6 year old oil. Any other ideas on how to get the working valve screw off?

Maybe a picture of what we are dealing with in regards to the cover? I've never had one that I couldn't remove, of course if the slot is "mashed" you may need to explore other options such as removing some of the stake with a small grinder/dremel stone.

 

[luv2rallye]

Part of the problem is the screw slot is 3/4" wide where my hand impact bit is only 5/16" wide. Even my widest screwdriver is only 3/8" wide. I went to different stores but no-one had anything wider. Any ideas there?

 

[Hiball]

Part of the problem is the screw slot is 3/4" wide where my hand impact bit is only 5/16" wide. Even my widest screwdriver is only 3/8" wide. I went to different stores but no-one had anything wider. Any ideas there?

I have a variety of snap on bits for my impact that I use on those style, along with the Snap on bits I have a Vim set of bits (picked up from amazon) that I use with a bit adapter. If you have a large blunt punch sit it on top of the valve and smack it with a hammer and see if you can swell the little bit of threads that plug has. I think you problem is just not having the right sized driver, maybe the punch will loosen things up.

 

[luv2rallye]

Well I finally got the screw off. I had to grind the dimples off and then bought a 5/8" screwdriver bit (couldn't find a 3/4"), pounded it in the slot, and put it on a 17" breaker bar. It still tryed to twist out of the slot so I put all my weight on it to hold it in. It had only 1 steel ball in it with no crud. I pushed the plunger a couple times to make sure oil squirted out and reassembled. Now the jack works so I can only assume some trapped air must have gotten in there?

 

[Hiball]

Well I finally got the screw off. I had to grind the dimples off and then bought a 5/8" screwdriver bit (couldn't find a 3/4"), pounded it in the slot, and put it on a 17" breaker bar. It still tryed to twist out of the slot so I put all my weight on it to hold it in. It had only 1 steel ball in it with no crud. I pushed the plunger a couple times to make sure oil squirted out and reassembled. Now the jack works so I can only assume some trapped air must have gotten in there?

Glad its working, but FYI there definitely was more than 1 ball, you must have missed the lower suction ball, surprised you didn't lose it when you pumped the handle.

 

[luv2rallye]

No there was only one and it was a large one. I used a magnet for the large ball and then the plunger pumping fast because I remembered you said there is a smaller one underneath the larger one so I was ready for it to come shooting out. If there was another smaller one in there it has to be permanently stuck in the bottom. Apparently it works ok that way if so. Could it be my jack only has the 1 larger ball because it has other things a little different from your article (eg. a needle valve instead of the ball in both the release valve and safety overload valve).

 

[EDGAR]

If you want to find out if it has another smaller ball, turn the jack upside down, with the plug removed, and tap the pump body with a hammer "over" where the valve hole is. As I have mentioned a few times before in other threads, a magnet does not always pick up the balls if there is some amount of oil over them. It might sound silly and yet it can happen. Look out for a falling and rolling ball.

Do this over some cardboard or rags as some oil could be spilled.

The parts breakdown does indicate two balls, one 3/8" and the other 1/4".

http://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/sears328.12001.pdf

 

[Hiball]

No there was only one and it was a large one. I used a magnet for the large ball and then the plunger pumping fast because I remembered you said there is a smaller one underneath the larger one so I was ready for it to come shooting out. If there was another smaller one in there it has to be permanently stuck in the bottom. Apparently it works ok that way if so. Could it be my jack only has the 1 larger ball because it has other things a little different from your article (eg. a needle valve instead of the ball in both the release valve and safety overload valve).

I don't mean to sound rude, but if the bottom ball was "stuck", it would block the ingestion/intake of oil and your jack would not operate correctly. Since.. I earlier diagnosed your jack problem as a Air issue, and gave you proper instructions on how to remedy it, and per your own admission it didn't solve the problem. I would look into to inspecting the pump oring, as obviously they are worn enough to where they couldn't purge the circuit of air.

 

[luv2rallye]

ok thanx. My jack handle spring is also broken. Would you happen to have one (used is ok)?

 

[Hiball]

ok thanx. My jack handle spring is also broken. Would you happen to have one (used is ok)?

You can Check Here with Marc as he sells some torsion springs to fit various brands and They are side specific. I probably have some New/Used at the shop but it seems shop time is precious as of late, but for the price you are better off buying New.

 

[luv2rallye]

Thanx for the parts link.

 

[chin00kie]

Super job! Thank you

 

[Silverado92]

thanks for posting that on this site. great info, but my jack has four screws on top to account for the foot feed. your article really helped me out for the most part. Do the springs have a preload, or do I just tighten them down tite?

 

[Silverado92]

never mind. I just read your help thing and got my answer. Wish I were the one to take this apart first. This really helped me out alot. Thank you very much.

 

[DavidClapp]

I have the same problem as some have described in this topic before. My release handle spins with no stop, with no effect on the cylinder, and jack will not pump up. I have studied the pictures in the tutorial, and looked at several other internet sites and pictures. Although my jack looks exactly the same as the one in the tutorial, my release nut and stem are not threaded to lower or raise the stem on the ball. I can't understand how this would ever work.
What is supposed to move the stem up or down to trap the ball? It only spins in the washer with no up or down movement.

 

[Hiball]

It only spins in the washer with no up or down movement.

Its just another Version, None of them will work if the Washer isn't stationary as its sole job to prevent the Hex portion from spinning. If your having a hard time wrapping your head around it, Put it back together and Hold the Hex portion with your hand/Wrench and rotate the gear, you will see it raise and lower.

 

[DavidClapp]

OK. I think I have it figured out. The square male part on the shaft in my third picture down is stuck and acting as a single piece. It will not screw in or out. I thought it was one part, but found some pictures showing it apart. I will have to break it loose like is in the below picture.

 

[Hiball]

OK. I think I have it figured out. The square male part on the shaft in my third picture down is stuck and acting as a single piece. It will not screw in or out. I thought it was one part, but found some pictures showing it apart. I will have to break it loose like is in the below picture.

Correct there are 2 pieces there, when you go to reinstall in in the block I always start with it extended, start the outer hex portion till it bottoms out then turn the gear to pull the hex up, while also tightening the outer hex till it's completely seated.

 

[DavidClapp]

It took a torch to heat the screw up to break it loose, but I got it apart and installed it just the way you said. Works like a charm. Thanks to everybody that contributes on this board. This thing had been taking up garage space for years. Now it is a tool again.

 

[Hiball]

It took a torch to heat the screw up to break it loose, but I got it apart and installed it just the way you said. Works like a charm. Thanks to everybody that contributes on this board. This thing had been taking up garage space for years. Now it is a tool again.

Glad to hear.. Sometimes the hex portion gets pulled up too far and binds up and doesn't want to back out, normally I can persuade them with a wrench.

 

[randyherrick]

I recently acquired two floor jacks. The only information on them is a plate with manufacture date and a model number. A google search of floor jack model 45426 brought me to this site. On both units the head on the bolt in the handle attached to the release gear is rounded to the point the handles will not release the jacks under load (one of them won't close the release valve either).

Any suggestion on where I can get replacement bolts?

 

[Hiball]

I recently acquired two floor jacks. The only information on them is a plate with manufacture date and a model number. A google search of floor jack model 45426 brought me to this site. On both units the head on the bolt in the handle attached to the release gear is rounded to the point the handles will not release the jacks under load (one of them won't close the release valve either).

Any suggestion on where I can get replacement bolts?

Are you sure its the bolts in the handle assembly and not the female part of the "Handle"?

 

[randyherrick]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I have one out and it is pretty far gone.

The female part of the handle is probably contributing to the issue also. I have not looked at removing that piece.

 

[Hiball]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I have one out and it is pretty far gone.

The female part of the handle is probably contributing to the issue also. I have not looked at removing that piece.

Somewhere in my shop I have a box full of those bolts, but a few weeks ago was looking for them and came up empty. If you can't find a replacement bolt, another style is a fork method where there is a groove in the center of the male bolt in the assembly and then a roll pin is driven thru the center of the handle at the proper depth engage that bolt.

 

[randyherrick]

Any suggestions on where to find either version of the bolt?

 

[Hiball]

Any suggestions on where to find either version of the bolt?

I'm not aware of where to find either, what I was getting at was it might be cost effective to modify your hex style using a die grinder/some measurements/drill/roll pin.

 

[EDGAR]

OTC sells a parts kit for their OTC 1503A and OTC 1504A floor jacks that has this part. These jacks use the Torin pump used in many imported floor jacks. It is the same pump shown in Hiball's tutorial.

Below see the parts breakdown for the OTC 1504A model. The part number you want would be NO. 23 in the diagram. That part is contained in the "RELEASE GEAR KIT", no. 522967. There is also a kit no. 522944 but the parts should be the same for both kits. As a matter of fact, most of the kits, for either model, use the same parts. Apparently, OTC is happy having two different kit numbers for the same parts. Open the link and look for the section where the different parts kits available are presented.

The head of the "gear shaft" should be square in the OTC jack. If yours is square also, contact them and see if the kit is cheap enough to make it worthwhile. Otherwise, you could redo the head or weld a new part to the shaft to fit the handle part.


http://www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/522982_e_1.pdf

 

[Hiball]

Randy if you do contact OTC, Report back on what they Charge etc for any future members who need this piece. <-- Im scared to call.. LOL $$$$$$

 

[DaveDB]

Hello
I have a Jack the same as the one in your "Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial" the close valve as opperated by the handle only turns quarter turn ether way but the jack dose not opperate up or down this as happened since the jack slipped on its side under a vehicle on damage to jack or anything else. Can you help please.

You Replied
I would check for bent teeth on the spider gears to determine why it doesn't turn more than a 1/4.

I Have checked this the gears are fine i have had the stop valve out if i remove the round washer with the square hole in it the valve is then free to turn could it be the fact that oil has been lost and no pressure is in the system i know all washers need to be in i was just checking to see if this made a differance
Regards
Dave Bentley

 

[barney1977]

I am attempting to rebuild my Shinn Fu model g-181 2 1/4 ton floor jack and am currently looking for the seals to complete this project. The main seal, on the bottom of the ram, has a crack on two sides. This seal is held in place by a snap ring and has a size of 40x22x12 on the bottom of the seal. There are also two white plastic rings under the orings on the plunger that may need to be replaced. Has anyone had any luck finding a supplier for these seals. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Hiball]

I am attempting to rebuild my Shinn Fu model g-181 2 1/4 ton floor jack and am currently looking for the seals to complete this project. The main seal, on the bottom of the ram, has a crack on two sides. This seal is held in place by a snap ring and has a size of 40x22x12 on the bottom of the seal. There are also two white plastic rings under the orings on the plunger that may need to be replaced. Has anyone had any luck finding a supplier for these seals. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

You can check with the "Oring store" as other members have had luck sourcing parts, and they seem fairly reasonable considering your buying single pieces. The 40x22x12 is the size of the Ucup, obviously metric, the white pieces around the orings on the pump are "backups", unless there damaged (sometimes they slip out of the groove and get shaved) I wouldn't replace them as there sole job is to only mate to the oring and prevent extrusion, no sealing capabilities. If you do want to replace the backups, they are size specific to the oring.

 

[EDGAR]

The backups are usually split to ease installation. Maybe you saw them and thought they were broken? There are solid backups, but these are used were it is easy to install them, like a groove made of two separate parts that are screwed together, for example. For the grooves found on most floor jacks the split backup is the one recommended. A solid backup could be damaged while attempting to install in this type of grooves.

A solid backup is used under the u-cup because is easy to install.

Does your u-cup has a step on the bottom part (the one without the flared lips)? If so, the backup will have a short vertical lip to receive the step. This lip will have to be removed to make a flat backup as the aftermarket u-cups do not have the step in the bottom side.

Link to u-cups from "THE ORING STORE"

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=690_483&sort=4a&page=4

Link for backups.

http://www.theoringstore.com/index....ath=14&zenid=09d8c7d5f3f6ed8fdbd49be31f2385c2

 

[Hiball]

Does your u-cup has a step on the bottom part (the one without the flared lips)? If so, the backup will have a short vertical lip to receive the step. This lip will have to be removed to make a flat backup as the aftermarket u-cups do not have the step in the bottom side.

Link to u-cups from "THE ORING STORE"

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=690_483&sort=4a&page=4

The 40x22x12 should be a standard Ucup size, don't believe I've ever seen that size in a 2 piece backup application used in a floor jack.

Just for the sake of discussion, And Ill admit I've used the loaded Ucups in the past in this particular size many times, I prefer the Standard Ucup because the loaded puts a lot of squeeze on the cylinder wall which creates a heavy drag and can be a issue when dropping off load. If the Oring store offers them in standard form, I would suggest that route as that would be OEM. I don't think you will ever encounter enough start up leakage on a urethane seal, especially with a bore this size to amount anything serious. On a side note.. I've pulled those energizer rings before, it reduces the amount of drag sufficiently but also when compared to a standard Ucup "IRC" The channel isn't as deep. I should have both here at home, I'll try and grab some pictures for anyone interested, Not to mention the Standard Ucup was cheaper versus the loaded, of course that was thru MFP.

Just some 5am rambling.

 

[barney1977]

The ucup on my jack has a flat bottom and a flat plastic backup. I found a supplier and ordered the ucup ($17.00). The two white plastic or nylon backups that were under, or on top of, the orings on the plunger were solid. I removed them during the teardown, but will have to reuse them. Can you help me in letting me know if they go on top or on the bottom of the orings. I plan on using the original orings and will keep my fingers crossed that nothing leaks. Thanks again for the quick responses. This forum has been a big help in my attempt to salvage a 20+ year old jack.

 

[EDGAR]

The reason I presented the loaded cup is that THE ORING STORE does not seems to sell the standard urethane ucup in the 22 x 40 x 12 size. You see, it is always the problem of availability. The items exist but are not always conveniently available. So either he goes with the loaded one or he keeps searching for it online. He should check his local hydraulic shop first though, as this is a size that is probably in stock.

MFP sells some sizes only in the loaded u cup and you have to buy what they have or go somewhere else for a standard u cup.

HIball, what are you refering to with this statement:

"The 40x22x12 should be a standard Ucup size, don't believe I've ever seen that size in a 2 piece backup application used in a floor jack"

The back up illustration was not for the u cup, but for a pump piston, for example, with two backups. It was only meant to show how the split backups look. His jack more likely will have just one backup for the pump piston o-ring. He did mention that the he wanted to replace the pump piston backup.