Bolster
Well-known member
What do you recommend for cleaning oxidized aluminum, as can be seen in the Proto flexible file below? Buffing, of course, but that won't do much for the recessed areas...
Oxidized Aluminum...Cleaning
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
The Rusty Gear
Well-known member
Ask an anodizer what they use to clean the Al before anodizing it (I can't remember off hand what the acid is)
Are you planning on protecting the aluminium after cleaning it? Aluminium oxidizes fairly quickly.
Are you planning on protecting the aluminium after cleaning it? Aluminium oxidizes fairly quickly.
fatfillup
Well-known member
A solution of Oxalic acid will work great. Oxalic acid reacts only with oxidized material so you can clean of the oxidation without going after the good metal. It is pretty safe to work with also.
Now, where do you buy it? I have a polished aluminum maintainer that contains oxalic that we sell and many deck neutralizers contain oxalic acid, so you can try a local pressure washer distributor or a paint store that sells deck sealant and thay may have a product.
A dilute solution 5% or so will work better than a stronger ratio.
Its not fast, an hour soak or better, but it will work.
Now, where do you buy it? I have a polished aluminum maintainer that contains oxalic that we sell and many deck neutralizers contain oxalic acid, so you can try a local pressure washer distributor or a paint store that sells deck sealant and thay may have a product.
A dilute solution 5% or so will work better than a stronger ratio.
Its not fast, an hour soak or better, but it will work.
-B-
Well-known member
a bath of strong Tang then use a brass brush to clean up the small stuff. Keep an sharp eye on the bath and when done rinse with water do not polish the tool they never were polished when tou get the finish you like hit it with some spray wax and you are done.
The Rusty Gear
Well-known member
I thought Oxalic acid is what was used to anodize (ie oxidize) the aluminium!
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
wire wheel? 
)The Rusty Gear
Well-known member
Could be different Aluminium alloys too. Laquer works for a while - cheaper than but not as good as some form of anodizing.
The Rusty Gear
Well-known member
If Tang will work, so will Kool-Aid. According to J.A.F.E. The "active" ingredient is Citric acid.
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arkangel06
Banned
Nice Vixin files there
Lacqour thinner and scotch brite
Lacqour thinner and scotch brite
fatfillup
Well-known member
Don't know about the anodization process for sure, but i believe its a coating that is added. Oxalic acid may be used in the process but I don't believe it imparts the coating. Also, on the lable of the product i sell, it states, do not use on anodized alum as it will affect the surface(remove the coating)
What i am sure about is oxalic is definitely used as a polished aluminum maintainer (think mirror finish on tractor trailer wheels and tanks). While it will not impart the shine, as that mirror finish degrades, it is oxidizing and the oxalic acid will remove the oxidized material and leave the good shiney aluminum alone.
I have also used it in dilute solution to remove rust from tools as a cheaper alternative to EOR. I've also had customers use it to clean old motorcyle motors with good results.
This is what Elroy recommends:
The main active ingredient being Oxalic acid. Try it. you'll like it.
Ramblur
Well-known member
www.rustaid.com should be available at your local hardware.
I used this on the coolant passages of an aluminum head for a Hudson
Hornet engine and it ended up looking like a new casting... oxalic acid
I used this on the coolant passages of an aluminum head for a Hudson
Hornet engine and it ended up looking like a new casting... oxalic acid
tcianci
Well-known member
I think the stuff called wood bleach is oxalic acid too.
fatfillup
Well-known member
That is very likely. Oxalic will definitely clean wood that has greyed, just check for the active ingredient.
fatfillup
Well-known member
I checked the msds and it also contains hydroflouric acid. BE VERY CAREFUL!!! Hydroflouric acid is amoung the most dangerous to be around. It absorbs through the skin and attacks calcium (bones). Get it under your fingernails and you want to cut off your finger the pain is so bad for 2 days.
That said, the product probably does not have much in it, but be careful anyway.
fatfillup
Well-known member
Bolster, a little more detail on how you cleaned the tool. Looks great.
Elroy is pleased that you're pleased.
Try it on some chrome tools that have some rust spots and you'll really be happy
Well sir, a stiff bristle brush, a little sprinkle of Elroy's "Barkeeper's Girlfriend," a few drops of warm water until it becomes a paste, and apply elbow grease with the bristle brush. And leave the paste in contact with the aluminum a minute or two.
Try it, you will like it! It's not an "aggressive clean," it goes slow enough you can stop when it's where you want it. I didn't want it to look "new," just clean and not corroded.