Paint removal

[MarlynOC]

Bought a used hardtop for my car. The PO applied many coats of paint over 60 years that seem to come off with PeelAway6. The hardtop is made of fiberglass. The problem is that one of the coats is a thick red stuff that is very thick and hard. It looks like a coating that some use on decks to fill in cracks and knots. The Peelaway does not seem to loosen it even when using a metal scraper. I am looking for any ideas of how to get it off. I have tried. Lacquer thinner, goof off, brushing thinner, acetone, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, boat b.
bottom paint thinner. Does anyone have any miracle paint removers that are safe to use on fiberglass?

 

[aggie113]

Not sure if it's fiberglass safe, but you could see about having it soda blasted. I hear it's one of the gentler materials to use.

 

[Shiftless]

If you can sand it smooth, is it really necessary to remove that coating? If it’s stuck on that well, it sounds like a good base coat.

 

[Movover]

Is it a gel coat? smooth it out and paint it?

 

[MarlynOC]

The top is worth a lot of $$$ as it is original for Austin Healey 3000. They are few and far between. Problem is they are blotchy and not smooth and on sanding they gum up the paper in about 2-3 minutes. The PO did not put it on in a even coat when he applied it. I was thinking of soda blast but kind of unsure due to its age 60+ yrs old. I will try to feather it where it is bumpy.
BTW; thanks for feedback as anything helps.

 

[Shiftless]

The top is worth a lot of $$$ as it is original for Austin Healey 3000. They are few and far between. Problem is they are blotchy and not smooth and on sanding they gum up the paper in about 2-3 minutes. The PO did not put it on in a even coat when he applied it. I was thinking of soda blast but kind of unsure due to its age 60+ yrs old. I will try to feather it where it is bumpy.
BTW; thanks for feedback as anything helps.

For feathering out minor scratches and divots, I like Bondo glazing and spot putty. It comes in small tubes like toothpaste.

 

[ZRX61]

Was he in the USN or merchant marine? That looks like the red lead they use on ships & has the consistency of treacle.
Given that currently it looks rougher than a bears ***, I'd be tempted to sand what I can, then give it a couple of coats of epoxy primer as a sealer & walk away for a couple of months to see if it reacts/bleeds through etc.
If it's still good after two months lay down some FeatherFil G2 & commence block sanding.


or:
Media blast with soda or crushed walnut shells to get down the fiberglass and then epoxy primer as sealer & FeatherFilG2 etc.

 

[ZRX61]

Might also want to try #80-#120 wet & dry & have a hose running across the roof to prevent the paper clogging up.

 

[Prospecter]

I think I would apply a 2-part epoxy primer. These are designed to fill imperfections while also providing a reliable base coat. You can fair over the top if needed. Alexseal, Epiphanes, and Awlgrip all make a version, and no doubt there are others.

 

[MarlynOC]

ZRX, I was in USCG and remember using a lot of red lead. I thought it might be but its been 50 yrs since I used it. It gums up when I sand it. Also though could be Darvon the old 2 part epoxy paint we used on the hulls. I was thinking of soda blast but not sure how it reacts with 60+ year old fiberglass. Any experience with it?
Prosp We used to use Awlgrip on fiberglass redos. I did not realize it was still available.
Thanks for input.

 

[ZRX61]

Soda should be fine on FG, used it on very expensive vintage aircraft without any issues. I'd start at a very shallow gun angle & then increase the angle as needed to get the desired result.

 

[MarlynOC]

Retired from 25 yrs pressure washing so have worked with it over many years. Will give it a try when I get the machine out of the shed and running. Thanks. Just have to find my old protective gear.

 

[Glemon]

Good luck on the AH hardtop, I used to have a "100"(no hardtop). Agree about trying a wet or dry sandpaper and water, or try sanding on a cold day, or alternatively setting out the exposed red layer in the sun to cure a couple afternoons before trying abrasives again.

 

[MarlynOC]

ZRX used a lead check stick and found it is lead paint. Think you guess was right. Red lead paint. Am scraping and putting it in a sealed bag and sanding with a cyclone vac with extra filters.

 

[KenC]

I'd go with a Random orbit sander w/80 grit wetordry paper. Should sand without clogging and wet will prevent airborne lead dust. Once most of it is gone, change to 120. Then A couple of coats of epoxy primer followed by high build 2K.

 

[MarlynOC]

Thanks Ken. Have been using 60 grit will go to HD to get some 80W/D tomorrow. Question spray can or brush epoxy?

 

[ZRX61]

ZRX used a lead check stick and found it is lead paint. Think you guess was right. Red lead paint. Am scraping and putting it in a sealed bag and sanding with a cyclone vac with extra filters.

The lines in the paint in the 2nd pic tipped me off, it just had that *look*

 

[KenC]

Thanks Ken. Have been using 60 grit will go to HD to get some 80W/D tomorrow. Question spray can or brush epoxy?[/QUOTE

I'd use my HVLP gun. But, lacking that, for your use probably fall back to a brush, or preferably a little foam roller. goes on smoother and more even, at least in my hands.

The spray cans are too light bodied for my taste and cost far to much for the amount you get.

 

[ZRX61]

My go-to epoxy is PPG DPLF (or whatever the current name is), although I hear good things about SPI too.
The great thing about epoxy is it's basically an adhesive, so it sticks to everything & everything sticks to it. Makes it the perfect sealer coat before the high build primer goes on.
I also use it as another sealer coat after all the high build, filler, primer etc so the surface is all one color with no blemishes for the color coat to go on.

 

[MarlynOC]

Thanks I have a PPG dealer up the street.

 

[joe_padavano]

Not sure if it's fiberglass safe, but you could see about having it soda blasted. I hear it's one of the gentler materials to use.

^^^THIS. Soda works just fine on fiberglass parts. Just be sure to wash down before paint with a correct solvent to neutralize the soda. Holdtight 102 is the preferred wash. The soda horror stories all over the web are apparently posted by people who didn't follow directions.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

It's likely laquer paint and could be the reason for the clogging. I would sand it with a DA sander but be careful as you can easily ruin the fiberglass. Then a good high build 2K primer. YOu can epoxy before if you wish.