Painting OSB questions.

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I'm putting OSB on the inside of my new, 1000sf race shop. It has infloor radiant heat that I plan on keeping between 45 and 55 in the winter. Exterior walls at 6", insulated, Tyvek on outside, poly on the inside.

I want to paint the visible side of the OSB white.

1. Looking at the OSB there are markings on which say "Apply this side down". I presume that is when the OSB is used for roof decking. Does it make any difference which side faces the inside of the shop and which side faced the outside (poly and insulation)? Is there typically an "A" side and "B" side to OSB? Should one side be smoother than the other?

2. I've been told to prime the OSB with an oil based primer, then paint it with semi-gloss latex. Is that correct? or can I get by NOT priming it?

3. Can I prime/paint just the surface that faces the inside of the shop? or do I need to prime/paint the backside and the edges.

Thanks!

 

[Taylorfain2009]

I didn't prime mine. It's not a very good paintable surface no matter what you do. I sprayed mine. If you roll it get a thick dap. But I wouldn't even worry about priming. Just wasting time in my opinion. The gray wall is osb in the picture




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[kd3pc]

there are two sides to OSB and one is slick as snot in frosty weather, the other is not quite as slick in frosty weather. For your choice, the shiny side will take a tad less paint, over the "rough" side.

I did like Taylor, above, and just painted every sheet before installation, and it looks better than I thought it would, especially since mine is about 85% waste cuts from other jobs, that would have gone in the burn pile. At the time OSB was $12 a sheet, and these fit my budget.

Spraying will be ideal, as I rollered mine.

best of luck

 

[DC73]

2. I've been told to prime the OSB with an oil based primer, then paint it with semi-gloss latex. Is that correct? or can I get by NOT priming it?

Not sure if today's OSB is the same as yesteryear's but I painted OSB in a shed I built 20 years or so ago. I used latex primer and it was a mistake. The water in the paint caused chips on the board to swell and come loose. It ended up being okay for just a shed but I was told later that oil based primer before latex paint was the correct way to paint OSB.

I don't remember which side of the OSB I faced to the inside of the shed. That may make a difference.

I had a guy tell me that they now make an exterior rated OSB. Maybe the exterior version would stand up better to water based paint?

DC

 

[Tamper84]

I painted mine about 2 months ago. I put it smooth side out. I was going to prime then top coat but, I used Kilz latex primer(comes tinted white) 2 coats and I was done. It's bright and looks decent. I only painted the side that I can see.

Chris

 

[Stinger]

Yeah, the primer serves two purposes, first is to keep the pieces from raising (which is the reason to use oil based primer, not latex) and then the other is to cover up the black "this side down" lettering that's printed on the smooth side. I did two coats of Kilz oil based primer because there were still spots of wood that were visible after the first (rough surfaces are hard to cover completely with a roller in one coat).

 

[Brian80]

I used 4x10 OSB for the shop also. Smooth side facing in. Used interior Prime/Paint in one. 24x40x10, 5gals for 2 coats.

So far zero complaints

 

[walrus]

I did 2 coats of Kilz and then semi gloss latex. It came out great

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I did 2 coats of Kilz

I presume Kilz primer. Oil based or latex primer?

 

[walrus]

I presume Kilz primer. Oil based or latex primer?

Oil. 1/2 inch nap roller. It will **** up some paint

 

[JohnK007]

I did two coats of Kilz latex primer and then a coat of latex paint. Like DC73's shed I had some lifting of the chips. Not real bad but I know it's there. Lesson learned, use oil based primer. Also, I found it easier to prime before putting the OSB up, then paint once it's up. May or may not be practical for you.

 

[Buck41]

I painted my OSB on the smooth side with Kils oil primer prior to installing it. When it was installed I used Bear enamel glossy white paint. It looks great and the glossy paint is very easy to clean if I get oil or dirt on it . Plus I can wash my vehicles and the water on the walls is no problem. I like the way the glossy paint reflects the lights.

 

[Catadj78]

put the osb up and sand the edges where they meet. Doesn't take much. Then apply light coat of drywall mud. Sand (doesn't take much) and then prime with oil based Kilz

 

[NUTTSGT]

2 coats of Oil based Kilz primer worked for me followed by a decent paint. The house garage I used an exterior latex paint as it's an unconditoned space. My garage I used 2 coats of Kilz oil based followed by their Pro-X 170 interior paint. I also put the smooth side out.

If I had to do it all over, I'd do the same thing as it has worked for me.

 

[Worsedog]

I painted mine smooth side out with the cheapest five gallon buckets of white paint I could buy from Home Depot before I hung it. I used a long knap roller and laid it on like I was paid by the gallon.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I painted mine smooth side out with the cheapest five gallon buckets of white paint I could buy from Home Depot before I hung it. I used a long knap roller and laid it on like I was paid by the gallon.

So Mr. Worsedog:

How long ago did you do this?

Did you use oil or latex paint?

Are you happy with the outcome?

By the "smooth side" can I presume you mean "this side down"?

 

[Bib Overalls]

I also used oil based Kilz primer and a good latex semi-gloss white on the OSB in my shop. Two coats of each. The first coat of Kilz will soak in and look spotty. It will also take at least twice as much time to apply than the following coats of Kilz and latex. Second coat should even it all out. First coat of latex should go on heavy. Second coat of latex should go on light with particular attention to any lightly covered or missed spots from the first coat of latex.

Shop Remodel 83 by Formerly JimboT, on Flickr

Very pleased with the result.

 

[laser3kw]

Kiltz Oil. 1/2 inch nap roller. It will **** up some paint

Hey **** in Wisconsin
I have a similar size garage with OSB interior. When I went to paint it three years ago, I went with the recommendations I got from all the knowledgeable folks here at GJ. That was Kiltz oil base primer, and Sherwin Williams top coat, All White of course, really pays off when you add lighting.
The primer goes on like mayonnaise. It was hard for a guy who doesn't do painting for a living. But just plug away at it and it is time well spent. I used up every bit of 8 gallons on a 30 x 40 x 12, walls and ceiling. I taped the floor and applied painters plastic every where I didn't want paint - that took two nights to do.
I started with 1/2" nap rollers and found 3/4" nap rollers worked better. Also when you buy the roller frame, compare the different price range frames. You want the frame with the largest diameter frame material. With the heavy primer and the 3/4" nap, the lighter frames will flex to much, especially when you have it on the end of a 8' pole.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I don't paint for a living either ... in fact I've painted very little in my 63 years. We did some interior painting a few years ago at the direction of some very experienced DIY friends. I did the floor of the 1000 sf race shop and the floor of the 26' race trailer with Rust Bullet last year.

I plan on painting the sheets on saw horses before they go up to limit the mess. I was hoping to not use oil based because of the cleanup issues ... but I guess I should just **** it up and learn how to do that too.

Great recommendations! Thanks.

 

[Taylorfain2009]

Bottom line is no matter what you use or how you paint it it's still going to be osb lol.


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[laser3kw]

I was hoping to not use oil based because of the cleanup issues ... but I guess I should just **** it up and learn how to do that too.

Try this:
Get a 5 gallon bucket.
Buy your paint in gallon cans.
Pour one or two gallons in the bucket. Refill only as needed, keep level between 1/4 and 1/3.
Hang a paint grate in bucket.
Wear a cheap long sleeve shirt.
Or buy a painters disposable coveralls - they are only $5.00 - for real
Buy cheap cotton gloves.
put down painter plastic on floor
wear shoe covers
Dip you roller in the paint and roll off excess on the grate.
move to OSB and roll out.
When your done for the day:
Put roller and grate in bucket and close tight.
Throw away gloves and shoe covers
save shirt for next day.
If needed, clean up Hands with a little mineral spirits followed by Dawn dish soap and water.
Change roller as needed. Use a plastic shopping bag to grab it and pull off frame. Just like when you pick up dog poop.

It ain't so bad. It isn't a fast job, be prepared to spend a little time.

 

[30cal]

If you paint on saw horses before, how do you cover the fasteners after? I suppose you could use white headed screws or nails..

I tried to talk a friend out of painting osb white 10 years ago, but he wanted it..you should see it now.

osb just isn't a very good choice for a "finish", it was never intended to be, it's meant to be under shingles or carpet or siding, etc.

It does work well covering insulation in a garage, just leave it natural.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

how do you cover the fasteners after? I suppose you could use white headed screws or nails..

That is the plan.

I tried to talk a friend out of painting osb white 10 years ago, but he wanted it..you should see it now.

osb just isn't a very good choice for a "finish", it was never intended to be, it's meant to be under shingles or carpet or siding, etc.

It does work well covering insulation in a garage, just leave it natural.

Does it look "bad" ... or just like painted OSB.

My plan is for one 4' course of painted white OSB, then a 4' course of white slatwall, and then a 2' course of painted white OSB.

 

[30cal]

It looks like painted osb, for a while. Then it gets dirty, smokey, filthy. Humidity starts lifting the chips, exposing the unpainted chips beneath. Takes a few years. Are you prepared to pull everything out of the garage and repaint?

If you are covering the osb with something else, good to go.

Drywall is cheaper, offers fire resistance, and is meant to be finished, lasts longer..just my opinion

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Try this:
Get a 5 gallon bucket.
Buy your paint in gallon cans.
Pour one or two gallons in the bucket. Refill only as needed, keep level between 1/4 and 1/3.
Hang a paint grate in bucket.
Wear a cheap long sleeve shirt.
Or buy a painters disposable coveralls - they are only $5.00 - for real
Buy cheap cotton gloves.
put down painter plastic on floor
wear shoe covers
Dip you roller in the paint and roll off excess on the grate.
move to OSB and roll out.
When your done for the day:
Put roller and grate in bucket and close tight.
Throw away gloves and shoe covers
save shirt for next day.
If needed, clean up Hands with a little mineral spirits followed by Dawn dish soap and water.
Change roller as needed. Use a plastic shopping bag to grab it and pull off frame. Just like when you pick up dog poop.

It ain't so bad. It isn't a fast job, be prepared to spend a little time.

Thanks for all the detail! Very helpful.

 

[Worsedog]

So Mr. Worsedog:

How long ago did you do this?

Did you use oil or latex paint?

Are you happy with the outcome?

By the "smooth side" can I presume you mean "this side down"?

1. Seven years ago.

2. Cheapest(latex)

3. Yes, but with some things I'm not a perfectionist.

4. Yes.

 

[Jamie V]

I did this to my 24x40 pole barn 3 yrs ago.

I used 3/4" tongue & groove OSB on the walls and 7/16" on the ceiling.

I used 2" crown staples to fasten the ceiling boards and stainless screws on the walls (I even predrilled and counter sunk the wall screws)

I used a belt sander to sand the edges where the boards met and around the screw holes.

I used sound caulk for all the corner joints and at the floor line.

I primed with oil based primer (sprayed then back rolled) 1 coat.

I painted it with acrylic gloss paint (sprayed and back rolled) 2 coats

 

[Jamie V]

I added a shelf this year and did the same process kinda. I built and installed the shelf then took it apart to prime & paint, then reinstalled.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I did this to my 24x40 pole barn 3 yrs ago.

I used sound caulk for all the corner joints and at the floor line.

I painted it with acrylic gloss paint (sprayed and back rolled) 2 coats

Why the sound caulk?

Why acrylic vs latex?

What kind of a sprayer did you use?

 

[James-W]

I always suggest using a coat of drywall mud on the OSB first and let it dry thoroughly before applying paint. If you do that you won't see the wood chips in the OSB and it will have a finished look, just like drywall.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I always suggest using a coat of drywall mud on the OSB first and let it dry thoroughly before applying paint. If you do that you won't see the wood chips in the OSB and it will have a finished look, just like drywall.

^^^This works great if you want a smooth wall, just a skim coat is enough. You could probably thin the compound a bit and roll it on with a paint roller if you're not good with a drywall knife.

Otherwise, I'd just use a good oil primer and any cheap latex paint.

 

[Catadj78]

I always suggest using a coat of drywall mud on the OSB first and let it dry thoroughly before applying paint. If you do that you won't see the wood chips in the OSB and it will have a finished look, just like drywall.

Uses a lot less primer too

 

[Jamie V]

Why the sound caulk?



Why acrylic vs latex?



What kind of a sprayer did you use?

The sound caulk just filled the gaps in the corners and along the floor.

I have no idea on Acrylic vs Latex a commercial painter guy I know recommended using these products and they have worked out great so far.

I'm not sure the brand sprayer I borrowed but it was an airless type that you put a 5 gallon bucket over and the pickup tube goes into.

 

[MarkG]

For as big of a job as it is to hang anyway, spend a little extra and get something that will look nice when you're done----drywall. This sounds like a case of being 'penny-wise and pound foolish' to me. The appearance of a workspace affects my attitude towards whatever I'm doing there. Even plain plywood has a much smoother, nicer texture than OSB----I think OSB would be at the bottom of the list of anything I'd use as a wall panel.

Would you seriously want to 'skim coat' your entire OSB wall surface in an attempt to get it 'smooth'? That's what drywall is for! If you try to make an OSB wall smooth, you'll spend far more in time and mud and sanding than you would with drywall and STILL end up with a wall that's not nearly as nice as a drywall wall would be. It will be a much noisier shop too.

 

[Jon_E]

I put OSB on my walls, still a work in progress due to budget. OSB is cheap and far more durable than drywall. I primed it with Kilz oil-based primer, one coat, and will folloow up with an eggshell or maybe semi-gloss white paint. All I'm looking for is a durable surface that reflects light fairly well. Most of it will be covered in stuff anyway - tools, cabinets, shelves, lumber racks, etc.

 

[xyster101]

I did OSB, smooth out, latex paint. The wood did swell a little here and there. I just kept a razor on me and would cut off a chip if it swelled and was pushing out. I bought "opps" paint for $30 for a 5 gallon of greyish and then $16 on a red gallon.

Took 5 hours one day and 4 hours another. 1 coat of grey with a roller, 2 coats of red with a roller. No primer.

 

[G-ManBart]

It's been a while since I did the walls in my shop, but as I recall, after adding up the costs for OSB and Kiltz paint/primer, I found it was less expensive to just use steel liner panel from Menards. I think it took a bit more time when adding outlets, but was definitely worth it.

 

[Jamie V]

I did the 3/4"on the walls so I could mount what I wanted wherever I wanted.

I thought about metal but I was worried about the metal can sound inside the building and I also was concerned about denting it if something hit it.

 

[G-ManBart]

I did the 3/4"on the walls so I could mount what I wanted wherever I wanted.

I thought about metal but I was worried about the metal can sound inside the building and I also was concerned about denting it if something hit it.

I put insulation in between the inner and outer metal walls and there is zero metal can sound. It's actually surprisingly quiet, even during a downpour. The other side of my building doesn't have inner metal walls, or insulation, and it's pretty loud when it rains, but not really a metal can sound.

Depending on how you mount the metal they have quite a bit of give to them. I have yet to dent a panel, and I've even bumped them slightly with my scissor lift (that I just sold).

 

[Jamie V]

That's good to know. Did you notice any additional problems with cell phone reception or radio interference?