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Painting OSB questions.

G-ManBart

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Joined
Jan 24, 2015
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2,059
Location
Michigan
That's good to know. Did you notice any additional problems with cell phone reception or radio interference?

That's a really good question. We are in a low signal strength area to start with, and even when I had just the exterior metal walls, I could barely get reception or data. After adding the interior panels I think it was slightly worse, but it was hard to tell....some days were better than others.

Ultimately, I bought a used cell booster for $100, put the reception antenna up near the peak of the roof and put the transmit antenna inside the shop. I already had wiring running through the attic over the shop that feeds a couple of outlets on the barn side, so I just ran a feed from one of the junction boxes and added an outlet in the attic (which I had plans to do anyway). Now I have no problem getting calls, and data is pretty decent as well (only 3G)....it's good enough.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
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Northern Central Ohio
I'll add this too, when using oil-based Kilz, make sure you have plenty of ventilation. The **** does stink and can give you a nice headache if you don't get some ventilation while painting.
 

visiting guest

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Joined
Apr 27, 2015
Messages
177
buy the foil sided osb
and enjoy the most energy saving benefits.
white too offers a good Albedo factor
but silver foil would be best.

or buy elastomeric roof coating "gloss white" 5 gallons of coating 65.00

and roll it on ?

just some suggestions is all.
 
Last edited:

DCarr2

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Dec 12, 2015
Messages
1,339
Location
Akron NY
I vote sherwin williams oil base problock

Kilz is garbage

Buy a charcoal mask as well

I did my barn a little different, i used this moisture barrier primer from SW. Used 20 gallons. Sprayed the whole barn bottom 8' got 2 coats.

Then used 25 gallons of sw masterhide semgloss 3 coats on botom 8' on coat on tip 10'

Both products i used were latex. And i sprayed both using my graco 390 airless spray right with a 515 tip

Im also almost dine with caulking all the seams and **** joints in the osb. The caulk makes it look finished and will help stop air infiltration
 
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30cal

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Aug 6, 2013
Messages
286
Location
Illinois
I always suggest using a coat of drywall mud on the OSB first and let it dry thoroughly before applying paint. If you do that you won't see the wood chips in the OSB and it will have a finished look, just like drywall.


Hi Jimmy! :lol_hitti
 

minytrker

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
1,394
Location
Brenham TX
I did 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint. It sucked it up like crazy but looks really good IMO for what it is.
 

laser3kw

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Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
7,276
Location
northen IL
don't bother with saw horses. That is just more heavy handling and potential mess.
Instead just lay down painters plastic on the floor (ample (it is cheap), this is your walk zone / paint foot track zone). Lay your sheets down, you can line up two or more depending on room. Then just roll the paint on, like you are mopping. It also is much cleaner, less messy, and less work that way. All the paint drips down,instead of on YOU!
:rocker:
 

bucktruck

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Messages
43
Location
NorCal
Just painted two walls of OSB over the weekend. I used two coats of oil based SW ProBlock primer, and one coat of (Glidden) inexpensive latex white semi-gloss.

I noticed very little lifting of the strands after priming, but there has been a bit after I applied the latex. My guess is that the primer didn't have time to dry properly. We had a cold rainy spell on Sunday afternoon and I applied the primer Saturday afternoon and the finish coat Monday after work.

I might apply a second coat of latex later in the week, but to be honest, it's a garage, and the walls will be covered with shelving, workbenches, electrical and air lines, and some car pictures. Thus, it looks fine, and will look even better after I trim it out.
 
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