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painting OSB, what ya think about using Rustoleum??

kyles974

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Getting close to being done hanging my osb in the garage.

Last week I painting a table I built and painted it with Rustoluem (liquid) paint...I rolled it on.

Well, I decided to try a spot on the osb I had already hung. One coat and it coverd nicely. (this was with Aluminum color, which seems to be thin compared to regular colors of Rustoluem I have used)


My question, as anyone used it for their walls?
I'm I wrong here, but I would have to think it would be around the same cost, give or take $20 or so, painting with Rustoluem at $30 a gallon vs Kiltz Primer then Paint over primer???

Is there a reason why I should NOT paint the OSB walls with Rustoleum??:dunno:

I was thinking of Rustoluems White.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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I'd suggest you prime it first because OSB drinks up a lot of moisture and in doing so, some of the "chips" - for lack of a better term, will pucker up and have to be peeled off. It'll be cheaper to prime plus less a mess if you manually peel off the occasional chip with a water based paint on it, rather than oil based paint.

I did my OSB walls with latex and it came out great (in my opinion) BUT you can see the OSB texture and I did have to pull off some chips. YMMV.

Here's a lousy cell phone photo intended to show something else but you can see the texture and the lack of "popping" chips.

MagonWall1.jpg
 

trbomax

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starvation lake,mi.
I rolled 1 coat of oil based sw high build primer then 2 coats of rustoleum high gloss white (oil base).Filled it in very well.Its been 3 yrs now and when it gets nasty I just hose it off.Looks as good as when it was done. I caulked the seams and nail spots with latex painters caulk,useing a plastic squegie to force it in and flatten it out.No cracks or separations.I can shoot a current pic tomorrow if anyone wants.
 

Charles (in GA)

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The OSB I used for the lower shelf on a workbench needed to be primed first and then painted (I used rustoleum gray) as I tried a section without the primer and as noted, some types of wood in the board just sucked up the paint. Primer cured this.

Charles
 
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kyles974

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I'd suggest you prime it first because OSB drinks up a lot of moisture and in doing so, some of the "chips" - for lack of a better term, will pucker up and have to be peeled off. It'll be cheaper to prime plus less a mess if you manually peel off the occasional chip with a water based paint on it, rather than oil based paint.

I did my OSB walls with latex and it came out great (in my opinion) BUT you can see the OSB texture and I did have to pull off some chips. YMMV.

Here's a lousy cell phone photo intended to show something else but you can see the texture and the lack of "popping" chips.

The OSB I used for the lower shelf on a workbench needed to be primed first and then painted (I used rustoleum gray) as I tried a section without the primer and as noted, some types of wood in the board just sucked up the paint. Primer cured this.

Charles

ah, ok.
I did have one piece of the wood did "pop" up and did wonder why this happend.:dunno:

Dang, I was looking foward in NOT having to primer:lol:
I've primerd osb before and just seemed like alot of work.

....thanks for the tips, and thanks for the pic.(love the hose wheel holder:thumbup:)
....tired of learning things the "hard way."

.........so this is why?....I had about 10 sheets of osb on the garage floor, laying flat, and after about a week, the "bow" from when I bought them seemed to get worst....didn't understand what was going on there.


I rolled 1 coat of oil based sw high build primer then 2 coats of rustoleum high gloss white (oil base).Filled it in very well.Its been 3 yrs now and when it gets nasty I just hose it off.Looks as good as when it was done. I caulked the seams and nail spots with latex painters caulk,useing a plastic squegie to force it in and flatten it out.No cracks or separations.I can shoot a current pic tomorrow if anyone wants.

oh, you know what we think about pics:thumbup::lol:
 

Rowdy9

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Dallas, Tx
I'm thinking about putting up osb on my new shop, but I do want to paint it. Any other pictures would help me out. Thanks.
 

retrobuilder

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Using a primer will actuallymake top coat less work as it will **** top coat which costs more than a primer sealer. Make sure it is matched to work with your rustoleum paint system- oil or latex.

Sherwin Williams makes a good latex semigloss.
 

Tim The Tool Man

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+1 (or 2???) on the priming first. My advice on the primer would be to use an oil alkyd primer thinned 10 or 15% with turpentine. The turpentine will absorb into the particles of wood making for a very strong bond.
 

trbomax

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first pic is10' or so away,second show how the seams have held up. How I did it is described in my post above.

edit) I havent hosed it off for a year or so,you can see how the dirt does not accumulate on it though.
 

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Rowdy9

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first pic is10' or so away,second show how the seams have held up. How I did it is described in my post above.

edit) I havent hosed it off for a year or so,you can see how the dirt does not accumulate on it though.
Thanks for the info & pics. I think I will go this route for my walls also.
 

gayler

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first pic is10' or so away,second show how the seams have held up. How I did it is described in my post above.

edit) I havent hosed it off for a year or so,you can see how the dirt does not accumulate on it though.

In your second picture. Is there a bolt embeded in the wall to the left of the seam?
 

TRC51

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I'm dead square in the middle of this process as well... I found some stuff a Lowes (not purchased yet) called Valspar High Bond Primer. Supposed to go on like yogurt, so I was think this would work well for filling in the voids. Has anyone ever tried it?

Also, I read somewhere that you can skim coat paintable wood filler on the sheets to cut down on the roughness. I don't know about you, but that sound like and aweful lot of wood filler. LOL I think that is why most consider the skimcoat OSB method... but that is another thread already.
 

trbomax

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In your second picture. Is there a bolt embeded in the wall to the left of the seam?

Thats pretty cool isnt it? Its not a bolt,just the transfer of one that must have been loose in the press when they made the osb. You couldnt see it on the other side.
 

TRC51

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I see it from 70 (menards) to 130 (grainger) for a 5 gal. You gotta shop around for paint. Any paint under 20 bucks/gal, these days ain't bad.

I was seeing block fill primer for $40/gal... which is why I said that. For $70 on the 5 gal pail, I would use it for sure.
 

Falcon67

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I'm thinking about putting up osb on my new shop, but I do want to paint it. Any other pictures would help me out. Thanks.

I didn't paint. Maybe the ceiling, maybe later. If I'm so bored I have nothing else to do. Pretty much hate painting.

ShopB.jpg

ShopC.jpg
 
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admactanium

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I was seeing block fill primer for $40/gal... which is why I said that. For $70 on the 5 gal pail, I would use it for sure.

Just had to laugh at your avatar. I'm the originator if that image in photoshop. Did it years ago but I see it all over the place still.
 

fordbroncodave

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we just hung OSB in our garage too, 1/2" all the way around. Also deciding what paint to use and what colors.

also if someone could chime in for me, drywall or OSB for the ceiling? Have not put anything on the ceiling yet
 

TennesseeZ

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I've been painting it for years. A primer coat to soak in, let it set for 4 hrs usually, topcoat it. Very durable. I design them to go in otherwise unusable places, and usuallr build them to hold the rectangular totes you get from Homey world pretty cheap.I built a set for the kitchen I wish I had a pic of, here's a pic of a set I built for the storagebuilding. They won't get painted, And this is 3 units bolted together.
 

TRC51

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I didn't paint. Maybe the ceiling, maybe later. If I'm so bored I have nothing else to do. Pretty much hate painting.

ShopB.jpg

ShopC.jpg

I am going to use OSB on the ceiling as well. But I going to paint it on the ceiling for reflectivity. As for the walls... the verdict is still out on that one. I actually like the look of the unpainted. Actually... I like the look of the studs for some reason.
 

Dominico

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Zinser oil base primer & one coat of Olympic latex semi gloss worked fine for me.
 

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GRX

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Did my garage in OSB with drywall on the ceiling. Painted with bright white latex from an industrial sprayer which drops right into the 5 gallon bucket. Took about 9 gallons to apply two full coats, with 18 hours drying time in between. Very minimal chip raising only in 2 or 3 places. Can provide pics if you want.
 

Falcon67

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>Actually... I like the look of the studs for some reason.

If I had been really flush, the shop would have been 28x48 and the inside would have been insulated and the walls covered with 1x12s and studs to make it look "old school raw" on the inside. I also considered putting the OSB on top of the ceiling joists and insulating on top of that, for a similar reason.

I had planned to paint the OSB. I considered the cost but once the walls and ceiling were up, that warm glow of the wood said "nah, don't paint me". I like wood, so there it is.
 

Rowdy9

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Did my garage in OSB with drywall on the ceiling. Painted with bright white latex from an industrial sprayer which drops right into the 5 gallon bucket. Took about 9 gallons to apply two full coats, with 18 hours drying time in between. Very minimal chip raising only in 2 or 3 places. Can provide pics if you want.
PICS PLEASE:needpics:
 
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kyles974

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well, I primed with kiltz, then put a skim coat of mud on, sanded, some areas did another quick coat and painted. I ended doing two coats of paint.

I will take some pic today and post later.
 

GRX

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PICS PLEASE :needpics:
Not sure what pics would be best. Here are a couple, including my heavy duty corner sheves which are tied into ceiling joists and wall studs by way of lag bolts.

Two coats of bright white latex from an industrial sprayer on the OSB and ceiling drywall, with four coats of Nimbus gray sealer on the cinder block. The colored ink markings on the OSB bled through the latex so I sealed it with some old adhesive refrigerator paint spray bomb cans I had sitting around (brownish stripes in 2nd image). This is a workshop. Doesn't have to look fancy. ;)
 

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admactanium

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Hmmm... really? Cool. What other boards do you frequent?

Orangebloods & Shaggy Bevo mostly. Here's a bigger version for you. Not sure where the original file went though. I might have deleted it in a hard drive purge at some point. :

cuthbert_horn.jpg
 
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shawnspeed

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I was hesatant to pay 35 bucks a gallon for the Zinser "3Xthick " primer....but I tried 1 gallon on the first section of OSB....it pays to use it...1 coat of primer & 1 coat of paint ...good to go. I usually only put the osb on the bottom 4' of the wall , & drywall the rest, as it is 1/2 the cost...and the light reflects better off the painted drywall over the painted osb. My first barn I finished I used 1/2" B/C ply on the bottom with regular PVA primer , and that worked really good, but that same ply is now 25 bucks a sheet...so OSB it was for the new barn....Shawn
 

n2ocamaro

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I think that at some point a bolt got into the press and after hammering around left an imprint in the roller or press plate.So it just gets transferred to the osb.

I have the same bolt impresssion in a piece on my wall! Just noticed it this weekend after painting.
 

38Chevy454

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I just put 2 coats of Kilz oil based on my OSB. Worked great, good coverage. I caulked the seams and around the elec boxes. Overall very air tight and the white color works great for light reflection. I put drywall on ceiling, and it has the same 2 coats of Kilz.

My OSB also has the similar bolt impressions in several sheets.
 
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I've just finished painting the OSB walls and ceiling in my 30 X 40 shop. One coat of kilz and 2 coats of interior/exterior semi gloss white. I'm happy with the way if looks. A few things I learned along the way.

- do not use a water based primer. The OSB will delaminate.
- there was no difference in finish quality between the BIN and the kilz. Save your money, go for the kilz.
-I filled all the seams and nail holes with a latex based caulking.
-Spraying goes way faster than rolling and doesn't smudge the ink off the OSB panels. -Spraying does tend to use more primer and paint so be prepared to buy a little more.

I think it would have been a better finish if someone were to back roll the first coat of latex that I sprayed, I think it would have filled the texture of the OSB better. But in reality it's just a shop. I'd rather spend the time and energy on the projects that will happen inside the shop.

Good Luck!
 
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