Parts Washer Modify/Build

[Rhyno]

Here's my contribution to a topic that is still debated and wondered about.

I built a good parts washer well over 20 years ago, and now I need another one. Unfortunately, the first one was built for someone else, with their money, so I don't have access to it.

I have been needing to do this for a few years, but now it is finally the right time, again.....

I had some parts for a "By-Pass" oil filter that I was supposed to install on my last 5.9L Cummins. That project got "shelved," and I have been shuffling the parts around. The parts included some custom length, fuel/oil rated hoses and fittings. (Fuel is considered a solvent) I also had a common filter and filter housing that is used in the Medium to Heavy trucking industry.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/ByPassFilter.jpg

I got some motivation, and 25% coupon and headed to HoBo Freight. I bought the washer for $94.99 - 25% and also a small "Dolly" for $9.00.

http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html

The dolly gave me 4 casters, nuts, washers, and bolts. (plus some firewood with caustic smoke.)

I lowered the parts washer shelf by measuring and drilling. I can't remember the exact numbers, but the shelf will now allow the 17" Five Gallon bucket. While I was there, I drilled and tapped and added some fittings, a 1/4 turn valve, and a short ******. I used Epoxy to secure the fittings to the basin. (Glued and Screwed)

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/DrainValve.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/EpoxiedDrainFitting.jpg

I cut some scrap MDF, lined the perimeter with some 2x4 scraps and attached the casters from the HoBo Dolly. This was made to have a tight fit and is used as a base. I also mounted the metal shelf upside down. That way there is a stop to keep stuff from falling off of the back and sides.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/18FtCord.jpg

My garage doesn't have a lot of electrical outlets, so I put on an 18 foot cord. (of course another garage surplus) This was after wiring up a junction box so that a switch controlled the electricity to two outlets and also cosmetically covered a hole in the basin. The inside edge was covered by a piece of Aluminum, clamped between 2 pieces of steel channel and "Hammered" into perfection.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/AlumBenderTools.jpg

The Aluminum and junction box were then Pop Riveted together.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/SwitchBoxPopRivet.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/TestFit2.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PlugSwitchWire.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PlugSwitchFront.jpg

Drilled and added a grommet for the pressure hose. It just flops around....it does have a brass fitting and kind-of simulates a nozzle.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/OilHoseGrommet.jpg

I used a Submersible Pond Pump from Lowes. I think that it was close to $19.99. It hangs from the pressure line, and is close to 3.5 inches off of the bottom. I didn't add any filtering, other than water filled to 2 inches below the bottom of the pump.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PumpDrainTube.jpg





http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/Pump.jpg

Lid open, simple work light and everything turns off with the switch.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/Finished.jpg

The lid closed with the light still in place. The lid doesn't close completely with the light clamped on, but far enough for me....

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/LidClosed.jpg

And I use Solvent that was purchased from a gasoline style pump at a Fuel/Oil Distribution center. $5.19 a gallon

It might be Stoddard Solvent, Naptha, White Gas, Mineral Spirits, but the pump said "Solvent" and it has a very light smell of kerosene and is clear.

 

[Rhyno]

Tomorrow, I'll add an inside Pic shot.

 

[Rhyno]

I also shortened the black drain hose, hoping for less bottom level water/solvent/dirt agitation.

 

[Dieselbutterfly]

that's pretty slick

 

[Rhyno]

Thanks....

hopefully it'll help somebody else out, too.

 

[Rhyno]

I forgot to add...

I used a "semi clear" paint bucket so that I can visually monitor the level of solvent and dirt. The pic doesn't show it, but I can see through it.

And for those who might not have a "complete" understanding, the majority of the solvent is stored in the bucket versus the basin. That way I only purchase 4.5 - 5.0 gallons versus the 20 gallons that it is rated for....

The 1/4 turn valve is always open and the basin is always draining. I put a piece of steel wool, rolled up, into the drain hole. It stops Carb Jets and other small parts from falling into the bucket.

The water is separating the dirt, while the parts washer is not in use, and the 5 Micron Oil By-Pass filter is filtering while the pump is in use.

Anyways.....Let me know what you think

 

[Packard V8]

Good build overall. It will be interesting to measure how long that pond pump likes living in solvent. Might last forever in home shop use - who knows?

jack vines

 

[ilovevocs]

Rhyno,

Confirming logic with the water. Since the solvent is lighter it is floating atop the water thus allowing fine particulates to settle in the water when not in use and rest below the pump intake. I'm assuming the intake is not turbulent enough to stir the water into the solvent? How is this superior to using just solvent and allowing it to settle to the bottom? Are the particulates settling due to their lack is solubility in water and weight / specific gravity?

It's a really well thought out system, thanks for sharing.

 

[Rhyno]

Rhyno,

Confirming logic with the water. Since the solvent is lighter it is floating atop the water thus allowing fine particulates to settle in the water when not in use and rest below the pump intake. I'm assuming the intake is not turbulent enough to stir the water into the solvent? How is this superior to using just solvent and allowing it to settle to the bottom? Are the particulates settling due to their lack is solubility in water and weight / specific gravity?

It's a really well thought out system, thanks for sharing.

You are right, the intake turbulence isn't strong enough to remix the water and solvent. Plus there is a "cage" around the pump's impeller.

But having the drain tube too low will remix the fluids and particles.

I really don't have anything more substantial than "heresay" concerning why water and solvent is superior to solvent alone.

And "yes" to particulates settling because of solubility and weight.

-Rhyno

I'll try to snap a few pics that demonstrate a lot of this. It might take me a few days, though.....

 

[Rhyno]

Good build overall. It will be interesting to measure how long that pond pump likes living in solvent. Might last forever in home shop use - who knows?

jack vines

Thanks.....

I hope that the pump last a long time, too. If not, they are still pretty cheap to replace.

 

[Rhyno]

Here are some "Simple Science" pics that demonstrate how the water and Solvent separate.

The first pic shows how much solvent is in the jar prior to adding water.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1403.jpg

As the pics progress, I am pouring water into the jar of solvent. Eventually, the last jar has more water than solvent, but you can see that the amount on top is equal to the amount that was in the beginning.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1404.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1406.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1407.jpg

 

[Rtw5150]

It looks like you wired the white wire as your hot & switch leg and the black as your neutral u might wanna reverse those especially if the plug end of your cord is factory made.

 

[Rhyno]

It looks like you wired the white wire as your hot & switch leg and the black as your neutral u might wanna reverse those especially if the plug end of your cord is factory made.

Nice catch....You are right, and I have made it correct.

But thanks for looking out for me. (Maybe I can come up with a bad excuse, like I was tired or something.....)

 

[Rhyno]

Here is the corrected wiring....

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/PlugSwitchWireRepair.jpg

 

[alpinewhite]

What's the purpose of the ball valve? Sorry if I missed it.

 

[Rhyno]

This post is some more "Simple Science" that will address some people's fear of "Solvent" being too flammable or having too low of a Flash Point.

The first pic shows some EverClear. The Second pics shows, but it is hard to see in the pic, the EverClear on fire and the whole wet spot is a blue flame.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1398.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1399.jpg

The next pic is freshly poured Solvent, with a lighter touching the fluid. It's a 70 degree day, very low humidity, warm cement, and nothing but a new "Clean Spot" on my driveway.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1402.jpg

 

[Rhyno]

So after all of that,

Here are a few pics that show it in action. If I had used an oil filter that had a larger Micron Rating and Higher Gallons per Minute, the overall flow would probably be more. I am alright with it like it is. The more flow/higher pressure, the more of a chance to "SplashBack" into my eyes or on the floor.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1409.jpg

This pic shows the fluid draining back into the bucket.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1412.jpg

This pic shows how much water was put in with relevance to the bottom of the pump.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/WaterInBottom.jpg

This pic shows how much total fluid from the bottom of the bucket to the bottom of the pump. If you look close, you can even see the separation line of the fluids.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums...sWasherBuild/WaterampSolvent2BottomOfPump.jpg

 

[Rhyno]

This is what will be "Dissected" tomorrow. After being cut apart, (and cleaned,...haha) it'll probably ride close to the drain hole. Maybe over the top of it and the wadded up, steel wool "filter."

Yup, another item from the pile.....

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1408.jpg

 

[Rtw5150]

Nice catch....You are right, and I have made it correct.

But thanks for looking out for me. (Maybe I can come up with a bad excuse, like I was tired or something.....)

Anytime, great looking project by thr way.

 

[Rhyno]

So, I think that is it...

Questions?
Arguments?
Simple Science?

Maybe a check up, down the road.

 

[Rhyno]

What's the purpose of the ball valve? Sorry if I missed it.

The ball valve makes it easier to "retain and drain." I guess that it depends on the project at hand.

Yes, close the valve and let the pump run, until it starts to "sputter." Then turn the pump off. I am only using 5 gallons so the basin won't fill up very far.

Most of the "soaking" happens in a coffee can and the fluid continues to run, overflowing the fluid in the can.

Bigger parts that need to soak are done in a similar theory of the coffee can.

I.E. Valve covers,.....Turn them upside down, put the hose inside and let the pump continue to run.

The beauty for me is the amount of "solvent" that you have to buy. 5 gallons versus 20-25 gallons.

 

[Rhyno]

Anytime, great looking project by thr way.

Thanks....

 

[Danglerb]

Trick the car wash guys use is to put a grid of some kind about an inch above the bottom of the bucket to keep the sediment at the bottom once it settles.

 

[Rhyno]

Here's an update....

The bottom of the tank drained slower than the pump could pump.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1552.jpg

I figured that there was some epoxy that was interfering with the flow, so I put a bevel on the drain.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1553.jpg


I also made a "Drain Clearance Tool" that hangs on the outside of the tub. It is a coat hanger that I straightened, folded in half around a Phillips screw driver held by my Vice, and put the two ends into my electric drill.

A little trimming and origami, and it quickly pushes gasket pieces and debris into the bucket.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1556.jpg


Here's how it drains now. It's hard to see in the pic, but it is "Swirling..."

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/IMAG1554.jpg

Other than that, the solvent coming from the hose is still clear. The solvent in the bucket is starting to become dark, like diesel oil.

It's still doing good.

 

[Rhyno]

I washed an oil drain pan today, and I had the pan in the basin crooked. I lifted the hose up to the top of the drain pan to rinse, and the solvent pressure diminished.

It took me a minute to figure out that I was near the 4.1 ft pump height rating. At first I thought that I was having pump failure, but nope.....

Phew......

-Rhyno

 

[Rhyno]

Trick the car wash guys use is to put a grid of some kind about an inch above the bottom of the bucket to keep the sediment at the bottom once it settles.

Thanks for the idea. I might have to use that, in the future.

 

[George in Rancho Cordova]

I just use the pressure hose to clear the drain.

 

[Rhyno]

I just use the pressure hose to clear the drain.

I tried it and there wasn't enough pressure, with my current pump. That was the motivation for the twisted coat hanger.

 

[Rhyno]

It's still working great......Added a 90 degree electrical plug to the cord.

 

[splicer64]

Nice Job....I'm working on buying a used ZEP parts washer now...any suggestions on the strongest solvent? Thx

 

[Mark71GTX]

Do You think that pump would live through kerosene? I have a dead pump on my washer and don't want to spend $80 on a good pump since I do not use it often.

 

[cowboy73]

This is a timely subject. I bought a used parts washer about 2 months ago. I was thinking about doing some modifications to it like adding some wheels.

 

[alpinewhite]

Does Hobo Freight sell this solvent?

 

[Rhyno]

Nice Job....I'm working on buying a used ZEP parts washer now...any suggestions on the strongest solvent? Thx

The "hippie formula" solvents work as well as hippies do.....

Save your time and money buy something that makes Kalifornia nervous.

Naptha/ White Gas/ or Gasoline are pretty strong. If it is too strong, something else will fail.....Rubber Hoses, your Liver, Lungs....etc. It gets absorbed through the Pores in in your skin.

Keep a box of disposable gloves near the washer.....

 

[Rhyno]

Do You think that pump would live through kerosene? I have a dead pump on my washer and don't want to spend $80 on a good pump since I do not use it often.

Yes, I do think that it will survive. Kerosene is a "cleaner" version of Diesel. They both have lubricating properties.

I am using a solvent that came from a Gasoline Pump, at a Fuel Distributor, that said "Solvent." It smells like Kerosene, but isn't flammable.

The pump will die from heat or cavitation.

cavitation |ˌkavəˈtā sh ən|
noun Physics
the formation of an empty space within a solid object or body.
• the formation of bubbles in a liquid, typically by the movement of a propeller through it.

If I were to do it again, I might buy a higher GallonPerMinute rated pump. But the $ is the decider....

 

[Rhyno]

This is a timely subject. I bought a used parts washer about 2 months ago. I was thinking about doing some modifications to it like adding some wheels.

That'll make it easier to move around....

 

[Rhyno]

The "hippie formula" solvents work as well as hippies do.....

Save your time and money buy something that makes Kalifornia nervous.

Naptha/ White Gas/ or Gasoline are pretty strong. If it is too strong, something else will fail.....Rubber Hoses, your Liver, Lungs....etc. It gets absorbed through the Pores in in your skin.
Keep a box of disposable gloves near the washer.....

........I am using a solvent that came from a Gasoline Pump, at a Fuel Distributor, that said "Solvent." It smells like Kerosene, but isn't flammable.

.........

Does Hobo Freight sell this solvent?

I haven't looked, but I have heard that they sell a "Hippie Version." I wouldn't trust their "Chinese Green Science", though. Just think of the "smell", as you enter the store.

There are Fuel Distributors, everywhere. Most are just overlooked. The YellowPages, Google, and a phone call, will make it happen.

 

[Rhyno]

I received this PM stating/asking.....

Hi there, I came across your parts washer project and now I am in the process of modifying my HF one. I have a question though, where did you find a piece of pipe that screwed into the drain plug? Everywhere I have asked; Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, plumbing supply and electrical supply stores; they all state that it is not a standard thread. I can not get it matched. Can you help m\e out please?

Here's my contribution........While I was there, I drilled and tapped and added some fittings, a 1/4 turn valve, and a short ******. I used Epoxy to secure the fittings to the basin. (Glued and Screwed)

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/DrainValve.jpg

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd424/BlueLightRhyno/PartsWasherBuild/EpoxiedDrainFitting.jpg.....

I will try to be specific.....

Anything/everything HoboFreight, has very loosely machined parts and tolerances. This is very true concerning their threads and fittings.

I purchased the valve, and 2 ******* (From Lowes) and then headed to my Tap and Die set. After selecting my tap.... I drilled out/ enlarged the Metric HoboThreads to the tap size recommendation. Be careful, though.... It is easy to remove too much material leaving a weak female socket.

I can't remember the size, but I know that it is a NPT(National Pipe Thread)thread and maybe 3/8 " size....

NPT threads have non parallel edges as viewed from the side. This means that the further that you screw them in, the tighter the junction becomes. You can over-tighten and the female side will split and fracture.

After test fitting, I disassembled and used 2 part Epoxy to seal the threads. Upon re-assembbly, I put a wad of paper inside the drain opening so that I didn't epoxy that closed.

And as later discussed in this thread, I used a larger drill bit to create a bevel on the opening.

Good Luck flbiker450.....Make sure and post some pics..

 

[Rhyno]

Kind of an update.....

It is still working great!!
The water pump hasn't died but the flow has slowed down a very little bit. It's not making any type of whine, either. I suspect that the filter is probably close to being full.

I have had to top it off, a number of times. I'd guess that the fluid is evaporating or I'm carrying it off, on the parts and rags.

The only thing that I've added is a couple of welding rods that I "origami-ed" into a Glove box holding thingy....

 

[jeff0547]

Sadly again, Photobucket's decision to hold our pics hostage have ruined an otherwise very informative thread. Hopefully sometime in the future RHYNO can re-post the pics some other way.