PB B'laster

[X1 Mike]

I'm not sure why but every time I use this stuff I am astounded.

Kind of in a hurry pulling the exhaust off my bike today so I didn't bother with it but the mufflers wouldn't budge. Rather than fight it I decided to take my time and spray some PB B'laster at the joint. Went in the house and had a quick bowl of oatmeal for breakfast (10 minutes max) and both mufflers pretty much jumped off.

It's so nice to use a product for it's intended purpose and have it work every time.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

Never had good luck with it. I tried the Acetone/ATF stuff too, and it seemed equally ineffective. Perhaps I was just using it on things that were way past help.

BTW AvE just did a cool video on the different types of fluid used to loosen bolts.

 

[uncwstudent]

I love the stuff...except for the smell. It is absolutely horrible. I've been using the Liquid Wrench penetrating oil lately and had good luck with that too.

 

[scubadoober]

I hate the smell, but can't seem to find the liquid wrench locally whenever I need it. PB works OK I guess, but all are pretty ineffective on HEAVILY corroded nuts and bolts. You really should knock the crud off first to give yourself any shot.

 

[Tonyuk]

I've used a few penetrating oils but found the best ones available from a shop are the new WD40 penetrant and Wurth rost off.

If its bad go at it with a wire brush first, then the penetrating oil, tap with a hammer and more penetrating oil. Let it sit.

Standard 3in1 makes an excellent penetrating oil if poured over a part that you've heated with a torch, and makes up for not having a proper full size shop torch.

If you can soak the part then i've found plain brake fluid works well as a penetrant for some reason, along with ATF mixed with plain WD40.

 

[eaglefan1]

When I was getting ready for the big bore kit on my bike I sprayed PB blaster on the header studs 2 days before breakdown. Was no problem at all

 

[shawndp]

I rather like PB over WD40 - gets a lot of stuff out that looks dodgy. I’m tempted to try the acetone-ATF mix.

 

[jayoldschool]

PB is my go to.

 

[X1 Mike]

Obviously if a bolt is rusty and you can get at the threads you clean them as best you can. I am talking about being happy with a product when it's used as intended. The bolts were loose but the muffler was absolutely stuck in the headpipes after thousands of heat cycles and some rust had formed. I didn't have to tap it with a hammer, I didn't have to make some concoction that may or may not work. I sprayed it and let it work for 10 minutes and it slid apart. No fuss, no muss.

I just love it when something works as intended and thought I'd share.

 

[Farmall450]

I love the stuff...except for the smell. It is absolutely horrible. I've been using the Liquid Wrench penetrating oil lately and had good luck with that too.

I actually like the smell.

 

[Wamsutta]

I don't like it for two reasons:
1. Burns my skin on contact
2. Smells awful

 

[Jon_E]

Anybody use Kroil? That's always been my go-to for rusty fasteners.

 

[DadsTools]

I've had good luck with PB, but it sure does stink, and whatever you get it on (like your hands) stinks pretty bad too.

Anyone have an opinion on Kano Kroil? I know some think it's the best.

 

[Wamsutta]

Anybody use Kroil? That's always been my go-to for rusty fasteners.

Does it burn your skin and smell like PB Blaster?

 

[TRWham]

Anybody use Kroil? That's always been my go-to for rusty fasteners.

We certainly do. In my experience Kroil > PB.

 

[TRWham]

Does it burn your skin and smell like PB Blaster?

Smells like urinal cakes to me, but you get used to it. I can't say I've ever noticed it burning, but perhaps I haven't gotten enough on my skin.

 

[cherrybomb]

Yes PB Blaster stinks,but it does work good.But IMO and others comments here maybe one of the tips no matter what brand of penetrant you use,wire brush and give it some time to work,heat helps,conditions permitting.

 

[SD_40]

I use it and works fine for me. Yes, the garage stinks for days after. I think the main focus on any penetrating oil is to actually give it some time to work, rather than spray it on, wait 30 seconds, and then complain that it ***** when “whatever” is just as stuck as it was 30 seconds prior.

 

[6PTsocket]

I rather like PB over WD40 - gets a lot of stuff out that looks dodgy. I’m tempted to try the acetone-ATF mix.

Regular WD40 was never meant to be a rust buster, though they do make a penetrant under that brand name. Regular WD even has limited lubricating abilities. It was made to drive off moisture from wet electrical components and leave a little oil behind to deter rust. It is OK as a light lube.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[6PTsocket]

I thought this was all settled in the big comparison test. Acetone/ATF was the winner. Have not tried it yet.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[GarageGuy89]

I love the stuff...except for the smell. It is absolutely horrible. I've been using the Liquid Wrench penetrating oil lately and had good luck with that too.

+1....Love the stuff, it's magical. I only use it outside, anything in the shop and its a week long headache.

 

[Dingleburry]

I use a product named PEN. from state chemical. It works
And it smells like...........STRAWBERRIES

Also use Kem-A-Loose and Kroil alot.
All 3 work equally in my experiences.
Have not used PB.

 

[Skin]

Personally always found liquid wrench to smell the worst. I generally refer to it as liquid stench.

Regular WD40 was never meant to be a rust buster, though they do make a penetrant under that brand name. Regular WD even has limited lubricating abilities. It was made to drive off moisture from wet electrical components and leave a little oil behind to deter rust. It is OK as a light lube.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Actually it was made to prevent rust on things like rockets.

 

[sberry]

When I used bulk back in the day atf added to WD worked well. Only gripe I have against PB is the can, cums gushers. Kroil cheapen their can and raised the price. Liq Wrench is about the cheapest, I like the CRC ok and stuff called Mag 10 or something like that from the farm store, very similar to Kroil.
We use it for assembly as much as removal and if used it comes apart again easily. We rarely have seized bolts.

 

[unslow1]

Anybody use Kroil? That's always been my go-to for rusty fasteners.

I've had some soaking on my battery holddown bolts for a couple of days. I guess I'm cutting it off if that doesn't work. A torch isn't an option with the tray and battery both plastic. I still have a couple of Rust-eater cans also.

Kroil for the win. Those holddowns came loose today. All it took was 3 treatments over 5 days. Actually I was pretty surprised they came loose.

 

[jeffer949]

wd40 < pb blaster < seafoam Deep creep

Deep creep is my go to penetrating oil

 

[WWheeler]

Hmmm, I've always liked PBBlaster ever since I watched a gas station mechanic spray the backside of his boss' (the owner) styrofoam coffee cup that was sitting on a ledge between the register and the shop and everyone got a laugh when the old guy went to reach for it and wtf the whole cup was dancing.

I've never had it perform so good that rusty parts practically jumped off by themselves, mind you, but PB has always seemed to do as expected for me. It's been my goto for almost two decades now.

That said, after having just watched the AvE vid Michael in DE mentioned earlier in this thread I'm a bit disillusioned atm.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2G-dX50JuXE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[mfewtrail]

I have had PB Blaster make some fasteners significantly easier to remove while it seemingly did nothing on others. I wear gloves when spraying it because the smell will stick around on your hands for a while if you don't.

 

[anndel]

Using Kroil or ATF/Acetone mix now. Used PB Blaster before on exhaust pipes and manifolds/headers with great success. Both works for me, just ran out of PB and Kroil was on sale at NAPA.

 

[leog]

Kano Kroil oil is the best hands down. 30 years in a power plant and it worked, just plain worked. Many studs and nuts on steam line piping and valve bonnets through 100's of heat cycles safe for the steam generator also.I like the smell also.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Acetone/ATF is the claimed winner, and Kroil is My pet spray can, but mostly use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench due to the lower cost. I buy WD40 in gallon cans to use for cleaning and rust prevention. Plain old engine oil, ATF, or diesel fuel in pump cans are used for many sticky or less stubborn parts.

 

[The Fall]

PB Blaster works great. Exhaust collector bolts, stuck-on drums, etc. If something's really nasty, just hit it a few times over a period of times (days if an option). We work on pre-'75 cars. Lots of fasteners that haven't been budged in fifty years. Whenever I pull an engine out, I'll have a can ready.

 

[Tallpilot]

Anybody use Kroil? That's always been my go-to for rusty fasteners.

I think it is also the best. Although I’ve never tried ATF and acetone, too nasty.

 

[dogdog]

Hmmm, I've always liked PBBlaster ever since I watched a gas station mechanic spray the backside of his boss' (the owner) styrofoam coffee cup that was sitting on a ledge between the register and the shop and everyone got a laugh when the old guy went to reach for it and wtf the whole cup was dancing.

I've never had it perform so good that rusty parts practically jumped off by themselves, mind you, but PB has always seemed to do as expected for me. It's been my goto for almost two decades now.

That said, after having just watched the AvE vid Michael in DE mentioned earlier in this thread I'm a bit disillusioned atm.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2G-dX50JuXE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I saw this video too... was surprised at the results.... Not sure if his test setup is legit.

 

[gearhead1]

Kroil for me hands down. I used it once and the rest is history. I buy the gallon and use WD40 spray bottles.

 

[theoldwizard1]

That said, after having just watched the AvE vid Michael in DE mentioned earlier in this thread I'm a bit disillusioned atm.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2G-dX50JuXE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Not the most scientific test, but ...

I think all of us are expecting too much from any penetrating oil. Spraying something on a rusty fastener and expecting it to come off easy in 10 or 15 seconds is not realistic. If you know you are going to have an issue, start DAYS AHEAD ! Brush of surface rust. Hit it with "your favorite" (I'll bet used motor oil would work). Repeat every 12-24 hours for a couple of days.

Rattling with an air hammer DOES help. Or get out the "flame wrench". I don't think I will ever touch another brake bleeder screw without heating it up some !

 

[neitzel]

Free-All and Kroil for me. We used Free All at the oil refinery. Kroil at the power plants.
However, never done any scientific research. So nothing but opinion.

 

[jkesselr]

My go to for really stuck **** is heat followed by PB. If you get it hot, pull the heat off it, and start quenching it with PB, it will come right out. When you first quench it, the PB will just cook right off, but there is a specific point when the part is still hot, but cool enough not to burn the PB off, and you can actually see the PB wick into the threads. Hit it a couple more times with the PB until it stops wicking into the threads and you are done. That is when it is time to loosen the bolt.

 

[On-Wheel]

^^ wickes in after heat ! And wd is for sore elbows,lol.

 

[Tonyuk]

ATF & Acetone works well but i found after using it a good few times in a day the smell was starting to make me want to puke, to the point that now i avoid using acetone wherever possible.

It would be great if we could get Kroil over here to try as it seems to get great reviews, but its too expensive to use everyday really, like £30 a (small) tin/can expensive.