Outlawmws
Well-known member
I have a 12" Pexto, but none with the P. S. & W. moniker. Thats nice Don! Ny notes say that some P. S. & W. are marked "Stronghold"


Jumping back to catch up on an old find. Grabbed this a year ago, noticed the PH style handle figured it would be okay regardless of who made it. Shank was kinda bent, no real surprise, fits the standard, but the tip was almost unused. While trying to straighten it, saw what looked like letters, so got out the Sandflex block, and pretty soon I had USA. Little more scrubbing brought up SOLBAR. Little more found &W, then PS. Wow, never heard of this moniker from them, but apparently not new here, as Lugz showed us a couple of years ago. Still news to me, and slightly different than the catalog, no visible fluting on my handles.
As GJ koinkydink magic often strikes around here, I found another "SOL(ID STEEL) BAR" this morning, that I only noticed because of the very distinctive shoulder, and because of its regular shaped handle, which is very unusual to see with this "perfect handle" type design (i.e., wooden scales riveted through a through-shank). At least this one is the same shape of the drivers shown in the 1920 and the 1938 catalogs, not a "PH" type, and yet still no flutes. The "5" (blade length) marking is on the side of the shoulder on this one, whereas my "2" incher is placed right above the logo on the blade.Wow, never heard of this moniker from them, but apparently not new here, as Lugz showed us a couple of years ago. Still news to me, and slightly different than the catalog, no visible fluting on my handles.

Indeed! If the first two are any indication, it'll be 2025 when I find that defining third.Almost a Collection Lugz!
Today I caved and paid antique store $ (but 20% off marked price) for a No6 C-clamp I spotted there a couple weeks ago. So now I have an unbroken range from No3 to No8 to celebrate the 135th anniversary of the patent for the steel screw portion next Monday!It's worth whatever @four.cycle paid fifteen years ago, and I'll take it for that!Anyone interested or know what it's worth? Talking about the pexto stuff...
I should have one or 2 of those pexto screwdrivers mentioned above somewhere I'll have to check. I think they are mixed in with simular looking ones like "worth" and some other brands I forget. But if you are interested in the radio set stuff I'd be happy to work something out if you want to message me. I am missing a driver for My mtf midget set but any fair $ offer to a collector here takes it and by fair i mean whatever you or anyone else considers fair as im in no position to contest ha I always lose in the end with things as niche as this as far as the time I spend researching goesIt's worth whatever @four.cycle paid fifteen years ago, and I'll take it for that!
No, seriously, my $.02 is that your PEXTO "radio set No. 1" is a classic case of the Catch-22 I have talked about before.
It's definitely rare. They aren't shown in any of the PEXTO catalogs that I remember looking through on IA/ITCL and the only other set I have ever seen is @four.cycle 's (see page 4, post #140), in its original box. But there is probably little to no precedence of previous sales. You could try searching on WorthPoint, if you're a member. They go back farther than eBay Advanced Search data.
The problem is that anonymous sellers in anonymous markets tend to automatically equate that kind of rareness with high value. Availability is only half the pricing equation. The other half is demand. Collecting vintage PEXTO is not like collecting vintage Craftsman, Plomb, or Snap-on, just for examples, and some rare oddball PEXTO piece is not like some rare oddball from those mfgrs.
Are there comps? Yeah, all in the same boat with all the other funky "radio" sets out there from the same era (30's), from BHM, MTF, Braunsdorf-Mueller, Vim, and others (even American Swiss, the filemakers, had a set! I have one).
My opening joke is that I am betting 4.c grabbed his off fleBay many years ago for peanuts. Before this hobby found places like GJ, Papaws and, heaven forfend, FBMP. This is the kind of situation where if you're going to sell it here you probably have to arrive at a reasonable price with someone who either likes oddball vintage spinner sets or any and all PEXTO where, in a friendly exchange, you get some 'Finders Fee Plus' kind of price that is decently more than peanuts and the buyer pays some price that is not shamefully exorbitant. I have been on both sides of those vague range-y meet-in-the-middle good-for-both-parties deals with GJers.

Yep! I think recoverable in a press with some care.



That is probably very early. This Tredway catalog lists the #1 Extra, but doesn't show the perforationI haven't looked back through this thread, but don't recall seeing this P. S. & W. logo before. It looks like a postage stamp, with the perforated frame.
I found another 12" divider the other day, as well as a 3/8" chisel. The chisel had been beat on without a handle, so I reamed out the socket and filed the mushroom off of the end. This handle was one I already had. It needs the **** end turned down to accept new leather washers, but it fits the chisel nicely. I like it when the wood matches the angle of the socket.
I haven't looked back through this thread, but don't recall seeing this P. S. & W. logo before. It looks like a postage stamp, with the perforated frame.
I think the divider may be a little older than the one I had, based on the oval logo and the style of the thumb nut. The hinge design is quite different and the new (older?) divider has more taper to the legs. They were quite bent up when I found it, but easy to straighten out. It looks like someone added stainless steel to the tips.
Neither divider came with the thumb screw. I may make a couple using online images of the original style.
Tom








You know you can strip off plating by soaking in vinegar for a while, right? I’ve found some of the old Pextos use a modern thread pitch. Still need to age the screw a bit.found two unplated screws to use. I'm undecided about tigging or brazing the pieces together
I think these look older with the oval tall suckers, but the flat style are more elegant.I prefer the flat style, like on the Keen Kutter, but will make the tall style for these.

Impressive collection. What did you do to clean and make them waxy?
I think there is more-than-usual glint on them in that photo, because it was taken in a dark room with a flash. But to answer…
They are maleable steel. I usually negotiate a decent price because they are bent to hell. I put them in a vise and lever them back as straight as I can.
Here’s what I do to virtually all the plain steel tools I collect:
I scrape chunky rust off with a screwdriver or putty knife. I put them on a fine wire wheel under light pressure, and buff off the chalky red rust. I leave as much black oxide as possible, as it creates a slightly porous surface for coatings to cling to. If I was too aggressive, I let them sit around a day or so to allow areas of naked, raw steel to darken a bit in the air.
One of the advantages of never finding these with their screw pads is the screw backs all the way out, so I use a battery brush to clean out the female threads.
THEN, on a morning with warm dry air predicted, I mix a small batch of 50/50 Boiled Linseed Oil / odorless mineral spirits (shaken, not stirred). I used to thin BLO with turpentine, but now I get a poison-ivy-like rash from it. For one tool, a teaspoon would be plenty. I usually do multiple tools in a session, so maybe a quarter cup for a tray of tools. I apply it with a toothbrush and immediately wipe down with paper towels, ONE TOOL AT A TIME. It is ESSENTIAL to remove as much as possible quickly (especially around the screw) to avoid a perpetually gummy mess. I bake it in full summer sun all day. I have a wood fence and a wood bench outdoors, so any excess BLO gets spread on them. I also use it to maintain wooden handles on tools, including long-handled yard tools. It is less essential to bake wood, as it actually absorbs the oil, but if I want to use it soon, I do put it in the sun for a few hours.
That is usually enough to get the look I want. If not, a second day in the sun. (In winter, I lay them on hot water radiators for a week.) If they were to be handled a lot, I would do a second thinned BLO & bake process after a week, on contact areas, avoiding threads.
I am sure paste wax, fluidfilm, or whatever favorite concoction that contains a naturally polymerizing lipid would work. I like BLO.



