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Penetration....
- Thread starter Junkman
- Start date
ghlkal
Well-known member
Yes, same thing.
PB BLaster! My son and I settled on it after finding it to really do the job. Unlike some products that just get the metal "wet"- this stuff REALLY PENATRATES!Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I'm also a fan of the PB Blaster, just not fond of the smell. And it seems that PB Blaster will linger for a day or so in the garage after using it. Good stuff though
e-tek
Well-known member
I'm a WD40 and heat-torch man as well - never found a bolt it didn't work on. 
Of course you can't use it everywhere, like around plastic, to loosen stuck mechanical parts, etc. For that I use just the WD40 - but I've often had trouble and I'll be trying the ATF and acetone mix when I start my next project - a 1971 Datsun 240Z. I'll need it for cylinders, suspension, bolts and more!
Great thread - thanks to all the contributors - and to Junk for starting it!! (I say that because there have been some DUMB threads started lately - IMO!!)
Of course you can't use it everywhere, like around plastic, to loosen stuck mechanical parts, etc. For that I use just the WD40 - but I've often had trouble and I'll be trying the ATF and acetone mix when I start my next project - a 1971 Datsun 240Z. I'll need it for cylinders, suspension, bolts and more!
Great thread - thanks to all the contributors - and to Junk for starting it!!
(I say that because there have been some DUMB threads started lately - IMO!!)6768rogues
Banned
I use Mouse Milk. It is a product used in the aircraft industry and I buy it through a friend who is an aircraft mechanic. Best stuff I ever found.
http://www.mousemilk.com/
http://www.mousemilk.com/
Well..I made a mix of 50/50 acetone and PSF. Cant say how well its going to work just yet. Want to let it soak in overnight.
These are on broken intake bolts that I always end up drilling out and helicoiling. If I can remove them without drilling..This stuff will be a miracle.. Ive let WD40/ PB blaster soak before.. Rarely makes a difference.
Im interested in this freeze stuff though..Ill have to check it.
I checked other sites for PSF and Acetone, and found very few results..But there was much more when I typed in ATF and Acetone. Looks like that article made a big mistake if most people are thinking its ATF.
I may still try an ATF mix if this doesnt loosen it.
These are on broken intake bolts that I always end up drilling out and helicoiling. If I can remove them without drilling..This stuff will be a miracle.. Ive let WD40/ PB blaster soak before.. Rarely makes a difference.
Im interested in this freeze stuff though..Ill have to check it.
I checked other sites for PSF and Acetone, and found very few results..But there was much more when I typed in ATF and Acetone. Looks like that article made a big mistake if most people are thinking its ATF.
I may still try an ATF mix if this doesnt loosen it.
sctattooer
Well-known member
Kroil is also available at marine stores. Boat mechanics swear that nothing but Kroil can loosen the propeller threads on a salt water vessel.
Well, it didn't work.
Still had to helicoil.
Im not buying into the Acetone/PSF combo...Tried ATF-Acetone as well. Same results.
The stuff doesn't even blend..It would make sense if it was suggested to apply acetone first, let soak, then apply PSF/ATF, let soak. Or something to that effect.
I would still like to give Kroil a shot though..
Still had to helicoil.
Im not buying into the Acetone/PSF combo...Tried ATF-Acetone as well. Same results.
The stuff doesn't even blend..It would make sense if it was suggested to apply acetone first, let soak, then apply PSF/ATF, let soak. Or something to that effect.
I would still like to give Kroil a shot though..
ProGun3400
Well-known member
I use Kroil and PB Blaster both. Kroils the first choice over the PB but the PB Blaster was free. 
The last time I ordered the Kroil, I ordered a gallon of it from MidwayUSA. Been so long since, I don't recall what I paid for it. It's not cheap but works great IMO:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=137203
The last time I ordered the Kroil, I ordered a gallon of it from MidwayUSA. Been so long since, I don't recall what I paid for it. It's not cheap but works great IMO:http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=137203
goodfellow
Well-known member
Make sure you're not using synthetics -- they won't blend, and may not work. I've used the ATF/Acetone mix, and while not a scientific comparison, I do believe it compares favorably to commercial penetrants. That said, since it's so cheap, I tend to soak the heck out of my corroded fasteners -- so volume may be a deciding factor.
My mix blends well using cheap Advance house brand DEXTRON II and I use it in a pump oiler with a long flex spout.
EDIT: I use Kroil as well, but have found the price of the mix to be the "go-to" solution
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dawg
Well-known member
eastwoods sells it
http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=kroil&submit.x=35&submit.y=10
but for the really hard stuff i use pure peppermint oil. ( it heats up)!
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Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
I'm still looking for something a little bit stronger.
I want to be able to spray it on a rusted bolt and come back in 10 minutes and the bolt disappears completely; nothing but a hole when the bolt used to be....
What do you do when you need to put the bolt back in?
russlaferrera
Well-known member
What do you do when you need to put the bolt back in?
Use expandable anchor bolts.
You can also use a sure shot sprayer to dispense the PSF/Acetone mix. and they are made to be refilled.
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ironroad 9c1
Banned
Yea using some heat draw the liquid into the threads just like soldering copper pipe fittings draw in the solder wd-40 is not a penetrant.I have had good luck with break free gun cleaner and lubricant and pb blaster.
goodfellow
Well-known member
Use expandable anchor bolts.
You can also use a sure shot sprayer to dispense the PSF/Acetone mix. and they are made to be refilled.
The original test article said ATF, but then showed PSF as the test bottle. I have tried both and haven't seen any difference whatsoever. Not sure if it makes a difference, because it's the acetone that helps any oil based liquid to penetrate.
I'd be willing to bet that Z-Max oil treatment would be a great penetrant as well since it's touted as having such a small molecular structure.
Who said they only used the females?"Mouse Milk"... it must take a lot of female mice to get 8 oz of milk......
Sorry.
+1 on this being a good thread. (no pun intended) stuck bolts and other metal things is one of the common tasks of the old car nut.
nkachur
Well-known member
ATF (Dexron III) and PSF are very simular if not identicle.
ironman2424
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2009
- Messages
- 50
i like SEAFOAM deep creep.
Well - I have finally found something that works!
Like others said:
Propane torch + WD40.
Fixed 2 broken bolts with that method last night. Common broken bolts that Ive NEVER been able to remove before without helicoiling.
If you cant get vice grips on the broken bolt, drill it partway out and fit a square easy out in...Before I would always just snap the easy out..
Like others said:
Propane torch + WD40.
Fixed 2 broken bolts with that method last night. Common broken bolts that Ive NEVER been able to remove before without helicoiling.
If you cant get vice grips on the broken bolt, drill it partway out and fit a square easy out in...Before I would always just snap the easy out..
jklingel
Well-known member
Get Kroil at a gunsmith's, or the gun section in a sporting goods store. They used to use Kroil to clean cannon barrels. Let is soak in your gun barrel over night, real wet w/ it, and run a wire brush w/ cloth pad through in the morning. You may find a lot of lead/copper come out. Never used it on a bolt, but bet it works well. Too, it is hard to beat the dynamic forces associated w/ the "heat it and beat it" method aforementioned. If you can heat the bolt and then cool it quickly before you cool the surrounding metal, I think that will also help; seems to.
Elwood77
Active member
A shop I used to work at used stuff called "Really Good Sh*t".
I haven't been able to find it anywhere, but it was the best penetrating oil I've ever used.
I haven't been able to find it anywhere, but it was the best penetrating oil I've ever used.
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clutch47
Well-known member
Yo
When I was a kid I worked on a dairy farm. The farmer was a middle aged guy that was SUPER set in his ways... I watched him remove some nuts from old John Deere A's with heat and candle wax. He would heat the bolt up 'till it was dull red and let it cool for a couple seconds. Then he'd let some wax drip onto the bolt. We'd go get a glass of milk out of the bulk tank, and when we'd come back, VIOLA !!!! Nut came off like a breeze.
Hey TOM2.... Try it out.!!
Clutch47
When I was a kid I worked on a dairy farm. The farmer was a middle aged guy that was SUPER set in his ways... I watched him remove some nuts from old John Deere A's with heat and candle wax. He would heat the bolt up 'till it was dull red and let it cool for a couple seconds. Then he'd let some wax drip onto the bolt. We'd go get a glass of milk out of the bulk tank, and when we'd come back, VIOLA !!!! Nut came off like a breeze.
Hey TOM2.... Try it out.!!
Clutch47
Ill give it a shot sometime.. But Im really impressed with the torch method. I used it again yesterday to remove two broken spark plugs.
First tried with an easy-out.. They wouldnt budge.
Hit 'em with the torch for around 5 minutes, spraying with WD40 a couple times.
Came out like butter.
Im just mad I didnt do this a long time ago...
One question I have is... Is it best to point the flame right on the bolt - or should you heat around the bolt? Doesn't seem like it'd make sense to heat the bolt directly (wouldnt the heat make it expand and harder to remove?) But heating the area around it would expand the outside metal, making it easier to remove?
I put the heat right on the bolt and it seemed to work better/faster.. So I guess I know the answer, but I dont understand the physics behind it..
First tried with an easy-out.. They wouldnt budge.
Hit 'em with the torch for around 5 minutes, spraying with WD40 a couple times.
Came out like butter.
Im just mad I didnt do this a long time ago...
One question I have is... Is it best to point the flame right on the bolt - or should you heat around the bolt? Doesn't seem like it'd make sense to heat the bolt directly (wouldnt the heat make it expand and harder to remove?) But heating the area around it would expand the outside metal, making it easier to remove?
I put the heat right on the bolt and it seemed to work better/faster.. So I guess I know the answer, but I dont understand the physics behind it..
nkachur
Well-known member
This may be a little off topic but people are talking about removing broken fasteners. The best way I have found to remove a broken bolt is to weld a nut to the head of the bolt make sure the nut is glowing, then hit it with some water to shock the corosion and cool the nut. Then just take a socket or wrench to the nut and spin it out. I am a military vehicle mechanic and this seems to work about 95% of the time... just make sure not to weld the broken fastener to the base metal.
nkachur
Well-known member
In responce to the question posed above. Heat the bolt. This shocks the corrosion and helps free up the fastener... if you then spray it with penitrating oil or water this further frees the fastener... see my post above.
e-tek
Well-known member
I like this idea, but I don't have room in my garage for a milk bulk tank. Will it still work if I keep a few gallons of beer in the garage refrig ?
I've found beer works, but more is not better. If you use too much beer, you can't find your nuts and bolts with both hands!!!!
As for the heat - I have always heated both parts. As well as cracking the rust, it expands some metals, which can help (or rarely hurt)...if you over-heat the bolt it'll either be too soft and twist off, or it will get brittle and break off. It's like the beer - you need just the right amount.
nkachur
Well-known member
I bet the beer would probably help it work better