Things to consider when choosing a light...
A few quick notes on intrinsically safe (IS) lights, regardless of which manufacturer's lights you may look at, that hopefully will help some of you make choices in the future:
- IS approvals for most people is completely unnecessary. Safety certifications are primarily broken down into Classes, Divisions, Groups, and Thermal Ratings. Even in industrial environments, less than half need a certified light, and probably only a tenth of those truly need IS rated lights .
- Class I deals with flammable vapors, gases (fumes) and liquids
- Class II deals with flammable dusts
- Class III deals with flammable fibers
- Division I environments have or are likely to have ignitable levels of the Class hazard present during normal operating conditions.
- Division II environments may, but are not likely to have ignitable levels of the Class hazard present during normal operating conditions.
- In simplistic language, for a light to become IS rated (C1D1, C2D1 or C3D1), no part of the light may cause/create/induce a flame, spark or electrical arc capable of igniting flammables in the environment (covered by the Class) during normal operation, even when the light is damaged/broken/exposed (specific testing requirements on amount of damage, length of time exposed, temperatures, etc. I won't bore you with). Again- in a simplistic sense- a C1D1 light can basically "go anywhere" with respect to vapors, fumes and/or liquids.
- For the vast majority of light users, especially GJ members, for use in a home shop setting, a light with no safety rating at all is likely OK. If you may have ignitable levels of flammable vapors, fumes or liquids exposed in the environment, but are not likely to, such as if you do work on fuel systems, use oxy/acetylene torches, use chemical strippers, do bodywork, etc. with (any) lighting and an air system that does not cycle the room air out frequently (or you do not at least keep doors and/or windows open), make sure you use at least a C1D2 rated light. Any manufacturer's C1D2 light. Please.
- C1D2, while safety rated, is technically not IS.
- Just a bit of (possibly) useful info- almost anything in sufficient volume, especially when suspended in the air, can be flammable, even possibly explosive. Baking flour. Shop dust. Gravel dust. Sugar. Ethylene glycol (yes, coolant). Your worst enemies in a home shop setting are inadequate ventilation and static electricity.
Last point, not pertaining to safety certs, but at rated output, battery life, etc. Any specs you read about regarding a light are considered honest if they are done to the ANSI/NEMA FL-1 standard. It is the only industry-wide accepted "universal" testing standard for output (in lumens only), distance seen, battery run time, etc. because every aspect of the testing is regulated and spelled out exactly what is expected of the manufacturer as far as rules to follow for testing. Specific testing equipment is needed as well. Even if a manufacturer rates a light as ** lumens, if it was not done to the FL-1 standard, it is likely a grossly exaggerated claim. Even going by the FL-1 standard, there are ways to trick a customer, if a manufacturer wants to. An example is lights with multi-LEDs, really high lumen rating, and almost unbelievable battery run times. The lumen output will be done with all LEDs on full strength, while the battery run time will be done on the lowest setting with the fewest LEDs running (unless otherwise specified on packaging). Unless others have started to follow suit, UK is the only manufacturer that prints the actual FL-1 burn chart graph for the light for the customer, and have for years to combat this- even before the FL-1 standard was adopted. Also, batteries matter. In a BIG way. FL-1 tested lights will have the brand and model of battery the testing was done with. Those are carefully chosen for best results, as well as safety and reliability concerns. If you use any batteries other than what the manufacturer specifies in a safety certified light, the certs are not in effect, and the light may not perform as intended. It would be akin to removing your car's airbag, getting in an accident and wondering why your airbag did not deploy and protect you.
Sorry, lots to absorb, I know. I hope it helps someone. More than that, keep in mind I left out A LOT of pertinent info, trying to keep things as basic and simple to understand as I could.
