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Performance Epoxy -Epoxy coat project!

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gabeancounter

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Well, keep in mind this is two layers of epoxy, not a urethane or acrylic top coat. The epoxy should hold up fine without any additional coats. Adding an additional clear acrylic glaze will protect the epoxy floor even more by adding additional chemical and uv protection. Sort of like a car paint job and you are adding a good wax to keep the paint perfect. That is my thinking anyway.
 
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gabeancounter

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Fergie,
I have read plenty of peoples reviews on all types of epoxies and most folks seem to have little problems with wear. I have no intentions of making this a show floor and being worried about everytime I pull my mower, dirt bike, atv, truck etc in on it. I do not intend to use mats under my jack or stands etc. The way the floor feels is very hard kind of like a skating rink. I am thinking of doing the acrylic glaze about every 3-5 years to keep the floor protected but that is it. No worries on the kids hurting the floor. This stuff is not fragile. I think the shine of the floor makes people think that it could break. Most shiney things are fragile. They say epoxy is 4x stronger than concrete? Hmm...don't know if I believe that sh$% but lets just say its not going to break off. lol
 
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gabeancounter

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Fergie,
Yes, the website is performanceepoxy.com. Division of epoxy coat. I checked the floor last night and I would say it is 95% cured. Stuff is really hard. I am really happy with my purchase. I think if you have more than 500sqft, the price and floor system can't be beat. If you have less than 500sqft and get a buddy to split it with you after you agree on the color etc then you are getting a top notch floor for the price of a WB quikrete floor.
 

fergie_1977

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BC,
Well…you have me convinced! This is the product I will go with for sure. Not sure if they ship to Canada or not. If not, I have all kinds of stuff shipped to the UPS Store just over the border in Ogdensburg, NY.
How many sq ft is your floor? I’m just shy of 600 sg ft.
How many hours would you say you have into this floor project?
Fergie
 
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gabeancounter

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Fergie,
Mine was just shy of 800 sqft that includes the mechanical room. Hmmm. You would have double the rated amount of material - almost 40 mils with the kit I used. You could save half , wait till your floor is done, invite your neighbors over, then sell the rest to them! lol...or get 3 one gallon containers and save a gallon of each as a touch up kit. Then put the rest down for a really nice floor!
The actual application took me around 5 hours the first day for base and chips. This included a final sweeping and a little bit of taping. The next morning I put the clear top coat down in about 2 hours.
Prep- took about 8 hours, pressure washed the whole floor, degreased a few spots, scraped glue up, etc. Etching was around 3 hours of the 8 hours.

Got the base boards down tonight, but I did not cope all the joints only miter cuts so I want to fill all the cracks and nail holes with caulk tomorrow evening before taking pics. Did not want to hear all the comments about you should always cope your joints.
 
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gabeancounter

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Banker,
Don't wory I made it happen all weekend. Finished the base and installed a whole house water filter system, and a laundry tub in the garage. In my spare time I had to get a new washing machine and replace it! Here you go!
floor039.jpg

floor024.jpg

:beer:
 

cartunes

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Beancounter,
I see you did gallon batches. I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough working time before it hardened but i guess it was fine. My 1200 sf floor is broken up into six
13x15 sections by saw cuts. Would be helpful if I could mix just enough to do each section at a time. I have 3 full Epoxy-Coat kits.
thanks
 
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gabeancounter

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cartunes,
I mixed 3 gallon batches and one 1 1/2 gallon batch. I would say you have 30 min to get things spread right. If it were me, I would just figure the floors in three sections (two of your areas).Being you have enough to do 1500 sqft then no real push to get exact. I know it is scary with all the time and money you have invested with the floor, but it takes to much time to mix up small batches. Also some people have had a hard time using those measuring sticks to get the ratio perfect. Absolutley put on the spike shoes before starting and that big of area I would have the 18" roller. Not sure how big the squeegee is that comes with the kits but the 18" HD cheapo worked great. The only issue is getting around the base of the walls. After doing this project, I think I would pull the material with the squeegee right up against the base and use a hotdog roller to smooth it out. I tried the brush but it was way to hard to try and do that much base with a brush.
One other thing, I waited until I epoxied the whole floor before putting my flake down. This is another reason you would need to get the whole floor down as quick as possible. I know it kind of sounds like you are just slinging the material down. You have time. I would get somebody to mix the batches for you while you apply. I did it by myself and started mixing the next batch after the first backrolling. After I mixed the next batch and poured it on the floor, I did the second backrolling.
 

rugerlady

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Hey cartunes, call us if you still have any questions. Also, my cell # is on the contact page if you need anything after business hours.
 

cartunes

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Just ran my hand across the dry floor, still feels slick. I may have diluted the acid too much. So I'll run to Lowes and buy more Muriatic acid and do it again.
thanks
 

TheBanker

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I'm thinking about splitting my 480sq ft in half because of the cabinets, sink, softner and shelves I have to paint around. Do the verticle riser and around all those things then do a second batch for the main floor. I think I will flake the entire top piece too before doing the main area. Only because i need to flake those verticle pieces carefully.
 

BL50

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Wonder what the best method to apply the base coat and flakes to a vertical surface is? Brush and carefully throw on the flakes? Anybody with experience care to share their experience?
 

Frogday

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Gshum
Adds a lot of chemical resistance and UV protection. Plus a hard acrylic finish.
http://www.hcconcrete.com/products/shield-crete-epoxy/glaze/index.jsp

I wonder how much UV protection that product offers. I have noticed the clear is highly sensitive to UV. My floor extends about 4" beyond the garage door when it is closed, and that 4" started to yellow within a week or two. I'm considering putting down some gray base and more flakes over that area just to make it match the floor again. I only see it when the doors are open, but it looks like a darker stripe at the edge of the floor.

It looks like this floor came out very nice. The moldings really add to the finished look. I used the same molding on mine. :beer:
 
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gabeancounter

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Cartunes, It doesn't hurt to do it again. Has it already dried? Its not an agressive grit feeling after etching but rather just a slightly grity after it dries. Better safe than sorry!

Banker, sounds like a plan! I think I would try a plastic pitcher that you could pour from while using a brush or roller. Maybe while pouring it on the top ledge you could roll it down on the sides? Just a thought.

I think with really small amounts you can through them up there well. I think some people have tried using an air hose to blow them on to the wall. Good luck
 

TheBanker

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BL50 I heard that the best way is to get small amounts and throw it against the vert. piece.

I was thinking of painting it first, flake it, then sweep up the extra, then paint the main part.
 
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ponjohn

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I saw that you mentioned in the other thread that you felt like the anti-slip is a good idea, does performance epoxy sell that?

BTW- how is the odor in this product?

John
 
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gabeancounter

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John, no odor or very slight odor. Not any stronger than a standard paint. Good thing about 100% solids. Yes, they sell it. Home depot and lowes even sell the little bags of the stuff. My understanding is that a little goes a long ways.
 

ml504

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I called today and spoke with Christine about the 15 gallon kit for $450. I was told that the kit would cover up to 2500sq ft. I am needing to cover 2200 sq ft, but will this be too thin? Just wondering because you used the same kit for 800sq ft. Floor looks great by the way!
 

Frogday

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gabeancounter

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ml504,
The kit is 15 gallons - 5 hardner then 10 gallons of epoxy. If you get all 10 gallons as a base coat (color) then it covers 2500sqft. If you get 5 gallons of base color (gray) and 5 gallons of clear top coat then it would only cover 1250 sqft. My kit was the 1250 sqft. The first set of pics is the floor with no clear, then the next two sets of pics are with the clear coat. I think you will be fine with one kit if you want just the base color and no top coat. My suggestion is getting one kit base, one kit clear. Should have less than $1k in 2200 sqft 45 cent a sqft rocks! Or get one kit for the base color and buy a urethane top coat or polyurea top coat. Are you using flakes - light or heavy? If heavy like mine then you need the clear epoxy topcoat. Urethane goes on much thinner but protects better.

Frogday,
Yep. I am not spending $200. This is what I am going to go buy tonight. Has UV protectant and resists chemicals. $23 a gallon and covers 400sqft. Two gallons should do it!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_224226-4-002.0051390.007_4294856831_4294937087?productId=3108521
 

Eddieb794

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Great write up beancounter. Just went online and ordered a kit to do my 2 car garage. This is the best price I could find anywhere.
Thanks Eddie.
 

nathank

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BTW- how is the odor in this product?

I meant to ask this as well. I'll be using this product next weekend.

Given my 16ft door sits directly on a dirt alley, I don't think it would be wise to have it open at all during application. I plan on opening it 6 inches so I can epoxy to the door line, but I'm going to tape plastic from the door to the slab to keep the dirt at bay.

I guess what I'm getting at is.... can you use this product in an enclosed area without dying?
 

Eddieb794

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Got free shipping. Also found that Northern tools has aerator shoes on sale for $6.99. Will be ordering a set to use on the flooring install.
 
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gabeancounter

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Nathan,
I did both clear and base with all doors closed. It was raining and cold outside when I did mine. I would say there is no odor at all but it has just a little odor. Not bad at all will not give you a paint high or headache.

Eddie, that is a good deal on the shoes! Way to go! The closest NT is about an hour or so from me. They are opening a new HF about 15 min from the house in a couple weeks. I am sure I will have cheap a$$ tools all over the place!
 

ml504

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ml504,
The kit is 15 gallons - 5 hardner then 10 gallons of epoxy. If you get all 10 gallons as a base coat (color) then it covers 2500sqft. If you get 5 gallons of base color (gray) and 5 gallons of clear top coat then it would only cover 1250 sqft. My kit was the 1250 sqft. The first set of pics is the floor with no clear, then the next two sets of pics are with the clear coat. I think you will be fine with one kit if you want just the base color and no top coat. My suggestion is getting one kit base, one kit clear. Should have less than $1k in 2200 sqft 45 cent a sqft rocks! Or get one kit for the base color and buy a urethane top coat or polyurea top coat. Are you using flakes - light or heavy? If heavy like mine then you need the clear epoxy topcoat. Urethane goes on much thinner but protects better.

Thanks. So if doing it again, would you get a clear kit as well or use a urethane top coat from somewhere else?
 
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gabeancounter

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ml504,
Would not change a thing. The overall thickness of the top clear epoxy coat really helps to cover the flakes. The thickness of the coating overall will be much thicker than just urethane-unless you do multiple coats. The only thing I am going to add is the cheap clear from lowes I posted a link to above. I think it just adds some UV protection and will help with any spills.
 

TheBanker

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I am just clarifing for ml504, beanbagcounter. Beancounter did a clear over the base to seal in chips and is now looking at doing an additional clear for UV protection.
 

Rocker

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Frogday,
Yep. I am not spending $200. This is what I am going to go buy tonight. Has UV protectant and resists chemicals. $23 a gallon and covers 400sqft. Two gallons should do it!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_224226-4-002.0051390.007_4294856831_4294937087?productId=3108521

Might want to check out this link before applying the Quikrete stuff
http://sweetgaragefloor.com/tag/quikrete-high-gloss-sealer/

Looking at the Quikrete site, they recommend this one for garages which I did not see at Lowes:
http://www.quikretecoatings.com/highglossSealer.jsp

Just thought I'd bring it up!
 
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gabeancounter

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rockler, thanks. Good thing my boy had a soccer game tonight. I did see the other one at my lowes the other day. Guess I will read both of the laels real closely. I was thinking the one I linked to was the one that said it was good for epoxy, but I guess I was thinking wrong.
 

69supercj

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Nathank, if you can spray the dirt down with some water before you start, that would go a long ways in keeping the dust to a minimum.
 

kartinkent

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Wow, I say Wonder what the best method to apply the base coat and flakes to a vertical surface is! Brush and carefully throw on the flakes? Anybody with experience care to share their experience Please post your time of along with that.
 
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