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PEX for compressed airlines! Yes? No?

Lelandwelds

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I have seen a similar plastic contain an upside down 2" aerial report 1.3G shell. It did bulge a little bit. PEX is actually a bit stronger esp in smaller sizes. (This is not PVC. Please do not mention PVC. I have only been here for a month and I am sick of PVC airline jokes.)

Easier and faster construction. Less weight. Less cost. Fewer connections to leak. Plenty of PSI. Will not rust.

Only down side I see is it doesnt like high heat. (So, something else close to compressor or use radiator)
 
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stm317

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If you like the simplicity of PEX installation, you could use copper piping and shark bite fittings
 

kinglake

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Dec 12, 2011
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PEX works great for airlines. I've seen it used locally in commercial applications several times. Yes, it is PEX, not the AL-PEX.
 

Bob275

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RI
I have a mix of copper, sharkbites and Pex for one long run. Been working fine but the Pex is not exposed to any sunlight either.
 

Muttly

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Dec 11, 2007
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Mid-MI
I've got pex, pex-al-pex, copper and black pipe in my system.
Pressured it to 165# and left it there for a week, no issues. The compressor is set at 165, my line pressure is now set at 110.
It's been installed for 5+ years and pressurized the entire time. The only leaks I've had are cheap Home Depot black pipe adapters.

I have two shark bite fittings on dhw cold lines that are fine, the only 4 I had in my wood boiler set up leaked after the first year heat cycle (185 degree water). what a pain to fix that correctly. I wouldn't use them at 100psi and 200 degrees.
 
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Lelandwelds

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I have a mix of copper, sharkbites and Pex for one long run. Been working fine but the Pex is not exposed to any sunlight either.

From sharkbite website .. "It is also rated to 200°F and 200 psi." Sounds pretty good .. I might try some :)

PEX works great for airlines. I've seen it used locally in commercial applications several times. Yes, it is PEX, not the AL-PEX.

Nylon tube push to connect fittings have soured me on all push connect fittings for probably forever. Plus, Sharkbite and the wannabes cost like six times what regular 3/4" fittings do.

I piped one vet hospital with AL-PEX ten years ago as a test case. Easy install. No initial or later leaks. Customer complained often about "crooked lines". Company decided not to use again. ( I believe that decision was a mistake. Great product.)

I have made exactly two crimps on my own plumbing. One with the Milwaukee tool and one with the smooth rings. ( Plumbers helper noticed me looking at crimps and let me make one of both styles of crimp.)

That is too limited experience to advocate the stuff but it seems like a mistake proof product.
 

jbwilkins

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Nashville Tn
The PEX manufacturers will tell you not to do it. Primarily because the pipe isn’t rated to be exposed to oil or other contaminates that might come from the compressor. YMMV.....
 
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Lelandwelds

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If you want to use a flexible hose or piping for your airlines, why don't you just use the stuff that is made for

They used to say the same bad stuff about aluminum. Fittings cost too much.

The PEX manufacturers will tell you not to do it. Primarily because the pipe isn’t rated to be exposed to oil or other contaminates that might come from the compressor. YMMV.....

Yes. The also wont endorse 1.3G fireworks

No use Parker air brake tubing. With proper fitting will out live you.

Rather use pex than nylon. Push in fittings ****.


100' of 3/4" air brake nylon is almost $300.
I can only imagine what 3/4 air brake fittings cost.

You'd save a bunch of money using copper then you would really have the best.

Copper is OK. Less PITA than black pipe to install. Crack heads steal copper but not PEX.
 

jetnow1

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Location
CT.
I do not understand why someone would not use a product made for the purpose. The cost difference is minimal, and you can be sure it will work, plus you get the proper fittings. My 100 foot 3/4 system cost me about 160 on
Amazon and was installed in a couple of hours. I did put about 40 foot of 3/4 copper on the wall to help take out moisture. I have 3 drops, all have a 1/2 inch outlet and a built in drain, cannot duplicate that for the same dollars from
the local big box stores.
 

rlitman

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I do not understand why someone would not use a product made for the purpose. The cost difference is minimal...

It's not about the price. It is about the convenience and availability. They see plastic products, and want something easy for themselves, but want to do it with parts available on the shelf locally, and that is where they turn to PEX. The right stuff referenced here isn't in stores.
 

moparfreak

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Milwaukee, WI
I haven't plumbed up my shop yet for compressed air and PEX is my leading candidate. Sure, I've stared long and hard at the Rapidair systems, and they make a nice kit with good street cred and look fantastic, but let's be really honest here, when you have a large shop, with a lot of ground to cover, and want to make a lot of custom drops for the assortment of workstations and tools, those kits just only start to cover what you need. I've got a 1300 sqft shop / garage and plumbing it up the way I would want to using Rapidair would approach $700+ w/ the need for several base kits and additional fittings / manifolds, and some larger pipe stuff as well. This is where I (and others) turn to considering PEX. The base materials are vastly higher volume therefore lower cost, higher availability, more configurations available, which gives us DIYers exactly what we are looking for. We can build and design the system on the fly, make a few trips to the stores along the way, and have a working system up and running over the weekend. Most of us aren't pros. The way I see it that kind of thing is what this whole hobby is all about!

Now, copper for me is also a consideration, and has most of the same things as PEX with a bit more skill and planning required (such as having to nail the bends down perfect before mounting / installation, whereas PEX can be formed and installed in place and trimmed as you go). That translates to likely more time and frustration to install a copper system than PEX, as well as better planning required (not everyone's strong suit), which coupled with the higher material costs of the tubing, is a strong consideration.

Just my take on things. I've plumbed up nearly my entire house w/ PEX rather successfully. Learned a few lessons along the way, picked up a few custom tools to make the job go smoothly, for compressed air in a hobby shop, from my persepective, it's a very good and viable option. I'll definitely be including it in my never-ending shop build thread once the time comes (next 6 mo or so).
 
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Lelandwelds

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It's not about the price. It is about the convenience and availability. They see plastic products, and want something easy for themselves, but want to do it with parts available on the shelf locally, and that is where they turn to PEX. The right stuff referenced here isn't in stores.

I do not understand why someone would not use a product made for the purpose. The cost difference is minimal, and you can be sure it will work,

.


****** wasnt intended for it eventual use. Neither was Rust Bullet, petroleum, text messages, the Internet, Rogaine, superchargers, playdough, Nohr-S, capsaicin, Coca-Cola, Lysol, bubble wrap, Lysterine, Post its, super glue, saccharine, George W. Carver's peanut products, WD-40, Warfarin, mifepristone, misoprostol, or Columbus's shortcut to India. People have been inventing new uses since some guy eyed a rock and thought "I could put a handle on that".

I want to use pex because it is awesome and I bet it works great. I hate leaks, listening to leaks, and searching for leaks.




I haven't plumbed up my shop yet for compressed air and PEX is my leading candidate. Sure, I've stared long and hard at the Rapidair systems, and they make a nice kit with good street cred and look fantastic, but let's be really honest here, when you have a large shop, with a lot of ground to cover, and want to make a lot of custom drops for the assortment of workstations and tools, those kits just only start to cover what you need. I've got a 1300 sqft shop / garage and plumbing it up the way I would want to using Rapidair would approach $700+ w/ the need for several base kits and additional fittings / manifolds, and some larger pipe stuff as well. This is where I (and others) turn to considering PEX. The base materials are vastly higher volume therefore lower cost, higher availability, more configurations available, which gives us DIYers exactly what we are looking for. We can build and design the system on the fly, make a few trips to the stores along the way, and have a working system up and running over the weekend. Most of us aren't pros. The way I see it that kind of thing is what this whole hobby is all about!

Now, copper for me is also a consideration, and has most of the same things as PEX with a bit more skill and planning required (such as having to nail the bends down perfect before mounting / installation, whereas PEX can be formed and installed in place and trimmed as you go). That translates to likely more time and frustration to install a copper system than PEX, as well as better planning required (not everyone's strong suit), which coupled with the higher material costs of the tubing, is a strong consideration.

Just my take on things. I've plumbed up nearly my entire house w/ PEX rather successfully. Learned a few lessons along the way, picked up a few custom tools to make the job go smoothly, for compressed air in a hobby shop, from my persepective, it's a very good and viable option. I'll definitely be including it in my never-ending shop build thread once the time comes (next 6 mo or so).

What he said. Hell yes!
 

moparfreak

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Location
Milwaukee, WI
Also, a video reference for installing a PEX compressed air line:


The drop ear fittings pretty much make it all possible and very easy to convert it to traditional quick connect air fitting hardware. Are super cheap too when you get it from the online plumbing supply places and get your stuff in bulk in advance w/ free shipping deals. Most of the rest of the fittings needed are simply Tee's and 90s and 180 couplings, which are even cheaper yet.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PXDE050-1-2-PEX-x-1-2-NPT-Brass-Drop-Ear-Elbow-Lead-Free

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PXE050-1-2-PEX-x-1-2-PEX-Brass-Elbow-Lead-Free

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PXT050-1-2-PEX-x-1-2-PEX-x-1-2-PEX-Brass-Tee-Lead-Free

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PXC050-1-2-PEX-x-1-2-PEX-Brass-Coupling-Lead-Free
 
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slodat

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Feb 6, 2010
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Central-ish, WA
I have a few thousand dollars in my air system in a 3500 sq ft upholstery shop. One area is FastPipe, the other is MaxLine. I am very happy with Rapid Air's products. It's rated for air, which matters to my (and any) insurance company. I don't understand people trying to use stuff not rated..
 

rattle_snake

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Chandler, AZ
Pex will be fine. It is a good choice for an in wall system when installed with no dips.

Yes, you would want to cool and dry air the before hand (a benefit of metal pipe). There is no perfect material, or these threads wouldn't exist.
 

Trey T

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The cost upfront for tools and material will likely cost a lot more than those Rapid Air kits that's made specifically for compressed air.
 
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Lelandwelds

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I'm using copper pipe. Pex is too difficult to avoid water traps. Copper pipe is simple, durable.

My experience is mostly with black iron pipe. When you say"water trap" do you mean "puddles in low places because pipe flexes down in places"? Or, do you mean something is bad about the traditional "drops exit from the top of the shop loop"?

I like the ease of a PEX install but fewer fittings to leak is my biggie. Also, I think it might be possible to have each drop exit from the bottom of the loop.
 
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Lelandwelds

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This. Nearly impossible to avoid water traps in Pex.

So whats the down side? It wont hammer like a slug in steam lines. It will get carried into a station drop and catch in a drip leg. If each station drop in a PEX system exited from the bottom of the loop, each one from both half circles from compressor to user has a shot at draining water before it hits the user.

Black pipe loops are deliberately designed to trap water. Most systems do not slope all sides well. Water pools and makes nasty black/brown moldy rusty goop.
 

moparfreak

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The cost upfront for tools and material will likely cost a lot more than those Rapid Air kits that's made specifically for compressed air.

I've plumbed my entire house (kitchen remodel, two bathrooms, hot water heater, full manifold system, etc) using PEX. This short handled $35 crimper is the only tool I needed to buy. I would think even for someone that doesn't already have the tool around for plumbing purposes, it's not a cost barrier compared to the expense of getting several Rapid Air sets.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-PEX-One-Hand-Cinch-Clamp-Tool/1000203069

Also, the rapid air systems would exhibit the same issues as far as water buildup, and just the same as PEX should include an initial run of metal as well as drain traps, dryers, etc depending on how dry you need that air to be (such as sand blasting, spraying, etc).
 

rattle_snake

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...have each drop exit from the bottom of the loop.

There are 2 schools of thought here:
1) Bottom exit, majority of moisture exits system in immediate drip leg (or tool) of drop being used
2) top exit, moisture stays in main line to the end... or it just coats pipe wall and stays in main line depending on length and use.
 
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Lelandwelds

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There are 2 schools of thought here:
1) Bottom exit, majority of moisture exits system in immediate drip leg (or tool) of drop being used
2) top exit, moisture stays in main line to the end... or it just coats pipe wall and stays in main line depending on length and use.

Work required #2 . Sometimes I think just because it ran up billable labor and parts.

I think #1 has some strong plusses. ( I dont believe water will stay where you hope it will. Too many missing and out of order flashings taught me that.) Get the water out.
 

Trey T

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I've plumbed my entire house (kitchen remodel, two bathrooms, hot water heater, full manifold system, etc) using PEX. This short handled $35 crimper is the only tool I needed to buy. I would think even for someone that doesn't already have the tool around for plumbing purposes, it's not a cost barrier compared to the expense of getting several Rapid Air sets.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-PEX-One-Hand-Cinch-Clamp-Tool/1000203069

Also, the rapid air systems would exhibit the same issues as far as water buildup, and just the same as PEX should include an initial run of metal as well as drain traps, dryers, etc depending on how dry you need that air to be (such as sand blasting, spraying, etc).
Rapid Air 1/2" 100ft 2-drops kit costs about $80
Rapid Air 3/4" 100ft 3-drops kit costs about $180

I'm not sure if PEX can beat those pricings.
 

ez-duzit

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You want the main line to pitch down (high at compressor end) to a down leg with water trap/drain valve. Drops exit the top of the main line and terminate in drain valve.
 
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Lelandwelds

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Rapid Air 1/2" 100ft 2-drops kit costs about $80
Rapid Air 3/4" 100ft 3-drops kit costs about $180

I'm not sure if PEX can beat those pricings.




Did you realize you are promoting a pex product as a better deal than a pex product?

I did one PE/AL/PE oxygen install about 10 years ago. Great product.

It does cost more. My system needs about 300 ft total with 12 drops. PEX costs $250. Rapid Air cost $600. Thats not including fittings around the filters and compressors. PEX $2 ea. Rapid Air $14 ea. Its quite a few fittings so the totals distance each other rapidly.
 

sberry

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Over the top is for large air beyond where there is movement past to drive water beyond. I have runs with no drip drop. I use the filter.
 

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ez-duzit

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Shop air piping layout.

pipe-layout-1.gif
 
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Lelandwelds

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You want the main line to pitch down (high at compressor end) to a down leg with water trap/drain valve. Drops exit the top of the main line and terminate in drain valve.

Most people cant install a loop so there is only one high point and only one low point. Trying (hoping? Trusting?) to get water to circle 100 ft or 1000 ft of loop and exit at one single point is just a tad optimistic. Giving it an opportunity to drip down every single station drop it encounters from both directions leading from the compressor is a better approach. It can be trapped and eliminated by the operator and it is out of the system. Your system doesnt need to be perfectly level to drain water.
 
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