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Phase Perfect Converter Installation

BentBierz

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Dec 3, 2014
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188
Location
Alvin, TX (Houston Metro Area)
Hello,

I recently ordered/received a Phase Perfect 30 HP converter and am starting to work on how I will install and wire the unit. Questions I have is how to mount a unit that is 250# to a wall (I will probably use unistrut), outputting from the converter to a 3 phase circuit panel that then feeds each of my pieces of equipment, etc. It also is supposed to be installed on a nonflammable surface so I will have to cover my plywood walls with something.

I was wondering if anyone with Phase Perfects could share pictures or info on their installations? Thanks.
 
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BentBierz

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Alvin, TX (Houston Metro Area)
Sounds like youre using a static converter.

What will you be powering with this?

A Phase Perfect is a digital phase converter. Here is the link to their equipment: https://www.phasetechnologies.com/products/phase-perfect

I will be powering the following 3 phase equipment (although seldom at the same time):

1) 4 HP Felder Dust Extractor
2) Sliding Table Saw - 7.5 HP main motor; 1 HP scrolling motor
3) 7.5 HP Felder Band Saw
4) 5.5 HP Felder Jointer/Planer combo
5) Yet to be determined air compressor and sanding machines--may go single phase with these...still in decision mode.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Location
Modesto, CA
A Phase Perfect is a digital phase converter. Here is the link to their equipment: https://www.phasetechnologies.com/products/phase-perfect

I will be powering the following 3 phase equipment (although seldom at the same time):

1) 4 HP Felder Dust Extractor
2) Sliding Table Saw - 7.5 HP main motor; 1 HP scrolling motor
3) 7.5 HP Felder Band Saw
4) 5.5 HP Felder Jointer/Planer combo
5) Yet to be determined air compressor and sanding machines--may go single phase with these...still in decision mode.

Ok the main question is, does this unit start equipment on all 3 legs then drop out one of the legs and "single phase" the load?
 
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BentBierz

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Alvin, TX (Houston Metro Area)
Ok the main question is, does this unit start equipment on all 3 legs then drop out one of the legs and "single phase" the load?

From the website:

"Phase Perfect® is the premium, convenient alternative to utility three-phase power that maintains phase-to-phase voltage balance within 2%."

"A Phase Perfect® digital phase converter provides excellent power quality under all load conditions. The Phase Perfect® operates with near unity power factor and essentially no harmonic distortion of the input while supplying balanced undistorted output voltage. It can safely power virtually any three-phase load within its rated capacity. "
 

larry_g

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oregon
I already saw that on the site and it didnt answer the question...

If you must be spoon fed; from the web site:

The Phase Perfect® produces true sinusoidal three-phase output voltages balanced to within <2% under all load conditions.
Because the output voltage is a sinewave with low harmonic distortion, all types of three-phase equipment can be safely
powered. Input current is true sinusoidal, near unity (.99) power factor and does not produce harmonics which can pollute the
power grid.

From my experience it provides true 3 phase power.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Dagny

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Perhaps they took the technology from a freak drive and figured out a way to safely disconnect things on the load side with no damage.
 
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BentBierz

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Perhaps they took the technology from a freak drive and figured out a way to safely disconnect things on the load side with no damage.

Not certain. In all honesty, when it comes to electronics and power generation, I just accept the fact that it is voodoo science and count on the expertise of others more knowledgeable in forming my decisions.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
Hey there, I also have a PP, I think its the 20hp model. I sort of forgot a few of the details but I think its wired with #2 awg although I've yet to trip the 60A breaker which feeds it. Be very aware that the PP still allows downstream/output voltage on 2 legs even though the contactor is OFF. So lock the input single phase breaker if you ever do any work on the distribution system. I learned this by creating an unanticipated arc in a junction box ....thankfully not thru me, but serious enough to recall that detail.

The big advantage of the PP other than having utility-quality 3ph in my opinion is that if you ever relocate, you simply take down the unit, demo the conduit and now your 3ph is ready to go in a new location after conduit and wiring is restored but that is Easy compared to dealing with a Utility. Contrast that to paying $5k to 15k to the Utility to run it to your shop which is fixed to only one location. The PP is based on VFD technology after charging up a DC bus but they've figured out how to sink power back to the grid when a downstream load is suddenly disconnected.

I built an old school fuse-block circuit protection/distribution panel for it. There's a 60A path with #6 awg which is direct-wired to 2 different machine tools, also with a local wall-mounted disconnect. This also feeds a 2nd fuse block which is fused for 30A service and that goes on many branches to a series of twistlock receptacles which go hot all at the same time. One learning was I didn't put enough ground lugs inside and had to jump to a 2nd distribution block. Make sure you label wires and make diagrams otherwise you'll forget down the road if you want to make changes.

All of the 3ph wiring runs in PVC conduit in the attic spaces. Nice since I can reconfigure it all just by moving conductors around. I drop vertically down thru T-condulet bodies either exterior to the wall in finished spaces or i went inside the wall cavity in the new shop. There's a large 2" Trunk Line and the branches are either 3/4 or 1" trade size.

I setup an icecube relay and a 3-way-4-way circuit so that I have 4 spots throughout the shop that can all either energize the PP or turn it off. The 120vac - 800T indicator shows the status since some parts are remote.

I kind of wish I would have mounted the PP in the attic. Originally its irritating transistor buzz was a little nerve wracking. My Dad, on the other hand could not even tell it was running. Fast forward about 7 years and I'm on the same path, I can hear it but its just a background noise now.

Relative to your question about the heavy box, definitely need to find studs, I would either send strut channel feet directly to the floor, or threaded rods to the trusses or ceiling joists. Its possible to use 45-degree braces but the wall is going to take on the large bending load if you don't outboard-support it. I'd take a look at GRK-RSS screws sold at Home D for some supremely strong screws when connecting to wood.






Couple shots of the trunk line.



That small conduit on the right is just a loose piece..not sure why that's there, I was probably using it as a push-stick for some low-voltage wires...oh well, the one going out at a 45 is 100% functional.



Not sure if this cryptography can be decoded but its the diagram for the control circuit. It can be expanded ad-infinitum by adding more 4-way switches between "2" and "3" and repeating the pattern. It has to start and end with a 3-way.



The PP is expecting a dry contact to be closed and not a 120vac signal, so there's an ice cube relay which hides in a 4" square box and the 120vac energizes its coil, the NO contact is what starts and stops the PP.



Original was just a maintained ON-OFF button but it became insufficient with the expansion of the shop.



Adapting the coverplate to 30mm/800T pilot light. Filed the slot for the anti-rotate ring.



Sorry this is probably more than you wanted. I hold no certifications so take that with a grain of salt, I'm prone to go off-script but have worked in automotive assembly, powertrain and battery plants and deal with industrial equipment daily for the last 20 years. I'm really a toolmaker/machinist/mechanic but had to get into this electrical gig in order to power my machines ;) Enjoy the PP. Its a fantastic device :beer:
 
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Oregon rock crusher

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West of Salem
Here are a couple pics of my 10hp Phase Perfect installation. I've had it for quite a few years now and it has outperformed my expectations. Mounted high on the shop wall I use a disconnect with a pole on the handle to energize it and pull 240v 3 phase power. I also use a second disconnect with handle extension to feed power from the PP to a 15 kva transformer so I have 480 volt 3 phase power when I need it as well. I just have a couple long conduit runs with intermittent J-boxes strung with #10 stranded where I expected to need power. I have extended the conduit run several times. Ed.
 

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wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Here are a few pics of my 10hp Phase Perfect installation. I've had it for quite a few years now and it has outperformed my expectations. Mounted high on the shop wall I use a disconnect with a pole on the handle to energize it and pull 240v 3 phase power. I also use a second disconnect with handle extension to feed power from the PP to a 15 kva transformer so I have 480 volt 3 phase power when I need it as well. I just have a couple long conduit runs with intermittent J-boxes strung with #10 stranded where I expected to need power. I have extended the conduit run several times. Ed.

umm that transformer is rated for 208V secondary but youre feeding it 240v?
 

PT Doc

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What made you choose the Phase Perfect compared to a rotary phase converter like American Rotary.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
What made you choose the Phase Perfect compared to a rotary phase converter like American Rotary.

I'm not sure if that's directed at me...but having built my own RPC and ran it for some years it was perfectly fine for AC motors. The generated leg is sketchy current flow and variable voltage under changing loads. An AC motor doesn't care, the 3 phase motor will hum along merrily for years and years on a single phase with reduced power....you just need the 3rd leg to "launch" the motor from locked-rotor dead stop.

But I got into some CNC machines which have computers and servo drives that have to sink power back to the grid if the decel inertia is high enough. Running older electronics I didn't want to take chances blowing anything up and I read enough stories of people who seemingly had no end of issues who were running RPCs, that helped solidify my choice.

I realize that eventually you'll find an RPC that's "CNC rated" or something like that...but the person owning the warranty on that is You. With the PP you know you are feeding the machine a power quality equal to that of the utility.

But again if you just have AC motors only, I urge you to build your own RPC for a couple hundred $. Or even integrate VFDs as a step beyond that. The RPC is a high priced device, but once you have it you might as well use it for everything.
 

Brand X

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Sep 15, 2014
Messages
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I run my two new Thermal dynamics 60i plasma cutters (3 phase only)(full output 1.5 inch max cuts) #2 Cincinnati Mill, Thermal Dynamics LM-200 all on my 15 hp RPC. I have known about phase perfect for about 15 years, so not in the dark on those either.. It's not the same as certain cnc mills etc, but the RPC can and does work totally perfect with very modern electronics. The guy I got the motor from runs his 25 crew welding shop completely on solar.. Now that is the setup..

Forgot, I also use my new Esab/Lorch 220i AC/DC on 3 phase RPC too.. Can't run it on my old school genny, because it throws a code..
 
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