Ping-Pong Problem (Solved! We're in fun mode now...)

[Private Lugnutz]

Guys,

I installed an outdoor ping-pong table in my side yard earlier this year. The base is six (6) columns made of concrete block on buried footers. The table top, a very old indoor table, is just set on top of that base. To weatherproof it, I applied several thick coats of marine or spar polyurethane. And we cover it with a tarp. It has provided countless hours of fun for my family and friends throughout the spring, summer and fall. But the table top is disintegrating. And I am going in a different direction.

Hence, this post.

What is a good source for a single smooth seamless sheet of metal that is 5' wide x 9' long? As for the thickness, it doesn't need to be crazy rigid, just not too thin. Thinking galvanized, coated, or aluminum. Maybe zinc.

Where could I acquire a single sheet cut to that size?

Can anyone think of an appropriate salvage source for a panel of that size?​

 

[redragoon]

That's a pretty large sheet. Maybe a discarded cooling table top at a scrap yard?
They are used for candy/chocolate production. Usually a seamless stainless surface in various sizes, but large enough to process an entire batch or several batches in one pour.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Thanks. What if I did it in two halves, each sheet 4.5' x 5'? Would that be less of a one-off and into a roofing or other market?

 

[rlitman]

Are you planning on mounting the metal over ply? How are you going to treat the edges to be waterproof (you don't have a brake to fold them down, right)? This seems like a difficult proposition.

My outdoor ping pong table is an actual outdoor table. I got my Kettler Sven on CL, and I haven't seen another outdoor table there (CL by me is awash in indoor tables), but it's worth looking.

Do you really need a one piece table? I don't see any harm in having a seam under the net. And I have a Stiga SensorScore scoreboard that will only work if you have two separate tables (it uses microphones attached to each table to record the ball's travels).

If I were building this myself, I wouldn't use metal. The first thing that comes to mind would be FRP. That's hard to find in sheets over 48" in width, but it does exist. I've also seen an outdoor phenolic board that looks (and works) a little like masonite that's been used on skate parks. But after you price that stuff out (especially when you consider freight), buying a commercial table may make more sense.

 

[driftpin]

Anyplace by you that makes airboats? They should have lines on oversize sheets of metal.

 

[Wrench97]

There are large panels for the old FRP(Fiberglass Ridged Panel) semi trailer side walls, expensive and hard to ship, but if you see any FPR trailers in scrap yards you can cut the size you want with a circular saw and it may be pretty reasonable price wise.

Swing door blanks are another option they are a plywood core sandwiched between 2 thin aluminum sheets, but at 110"x49"x3/4" you would need 2 @ about $150 each.

 

[steaks&anvils]

Buy a new to you ping pong table every year off CL or at garage sales.

How many years do you think an outdoor game table will hold it's appeal?

Does the basket ball hoop get used every day?

 

[Dumber than lumber]

If I could talk you out of metal .... you might consider using Hardi Panel. Put the finished side down and paint the cement board green, then Add the white stripes.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

rlitman
I've seen the type with a tubular frame that you roll or fold/roll, often seen in resorts and such, thanks. We were not interested in that type, which is more or less an indoor table that you can use outside. We were trying to emulate the heavier more permanent tables we've seen and played on in public parks in Europe and California, made of steel, stone, or concrete, which would fit our yard better than the kinds you can find at ****'s etc. It's not on a patio. It's under a pine tree on a bed of wood chips and soft needles surrounded by ivy near an antique iron settee and pergola and a vintage stone chimnea. I have seen a more permanent table made by the same company that made yours, called a Kettler Eden, but it runs $2,000. There are actually a few companies out there who sell and install the type you see in parks, but they run anywhere from $3,000 to $5,000. As for the material, I am not stuck on metal, so thanks for the FRP and masonite suggestions. I have looked into stone slabs as well. Whatever I use, it will just free-sit on the base.

Wrench97
Thanks! I appreciate your input. FRP and swing door blanks are both great ideas. $300 is fine. I think I have maybe $75 into the project.

steaks&anvils
Have to say, I haven't heretofore thought of you as one of those kinds of GJ guys who, instead of answering an OP's question, questions the OP's motivations.

But since you asked, I would like to be playing ping pong with my grandchildren on this table many, many years from now, and hopefully some of them will belong to kid #5 son #3, so I can tell them how he helped me plan the project, spec out the job, excavate the area, dig the footers, and build the columns.

As for your hoops analogy and question, yeah, pretty much every day! You had no way of knowing this, but sons played bball all the way through HS, my oldest daughter played NCAA Division 1, and my youngest daughter is playing NCAA Division 1 right now. I've pretty much been sweeping the driveway or shoveling snow for 7-position 500-makes (not takes!) shooting practice for 25 years.

I do like the garage sale table top notion and had the same thought myself. But if I can come up with something more permanent, that's what I will do.

Dumber than lumber
We played on a steel table with a steel mesh net in Barcelona and we really liked the looks and the way the ball sounded, but I am officially intrigued by the Hardie-Panels idea. You are talking about the vertical house siding, right? I wouldn't even bother with the white striping.

 

[theamcguy]

Think cement then grind it flat. A cement table top is your best bet outdoors, you can do it yourself, lots of YouTube videos or look for a local guy lots of people doing them now.

 

[rlitman]

Think cement then grind it flat. A cement table top is your best bet outdoors, you can do it yourself, lots of YouTube videos or look for a local guy lots of people doing them now.

After seeing the post above, I kind of agree. I'm just not sure how you'd finish it. Polish and then use a stain/densifier? You'd want something that stays polished in the weather, and isn't affected by UV. I suppose you could paint it.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Dumber than lumber
We played on a steel table with a steel mesh net in Barcelona and we really liked the looks and the way the ball sounded, but I am officially intrigued by the Hardie-Panels idea. You are talking about the vertical house siding, right? I wouldn't even bother with the white striping.

Actually, I was thinking of the 4 x 8 panels of the Hardi product. It has a T-111 groove look on one side. It is going to come in about 6 inches short on each side and you will have to run a 12 inch piece at the center under the net to get to the 9 foot length. And it will take two full sheets to do the 9' by 5'.
That Hardi Panel is really heavy, but it might work for you.
And I hear about the fun with family and friends thing. I mean, it is way better than the stuff on MasterCard commercials!!!

 

[Dumber than lumber]

After seeing the post above, I kind of agree. I'm just not sure how you'd finish it. Polish and then use a stain/densifier? You'd want something that stays polished in the weather, and isn't affected by UV. I suppose you could paint it.

Thinking terrazzo? It could be sat on, walked on, etc.

 

[gorilla]

Normal size for steel plate is 4'x8' that means 2+ sheets to fab up a table like you want. I'm thinking that might be close to $1,000.00 for materials and labor to weld it up out of 1/4" plate. Have you considered making it like a concrete counter top? Lot's of how to's on the net.

 

[steaks&anvils]

steaks&anvils
Have to say, I haven't heretofore thought of you as one of those kinds of GJ guys who, instead of answering an OP's question, questions the OP's motivations.

I'm just jaded. Too many neighbor's who have tons of kids sports/toys that never got used very often, but littered the yards and driveways.

My serious suggestion is to make the top out of concrete, like people make counter tops... Or maybe try to get cheap granite counter?

BTW, if not for a basketball scholarship, my Dad would never had gone to college. He was a poor kid, 10 siblings, he was the only one to go to college.

Edit: guys above just beat me to the concrete suggestion!

 

[VR6ix]

Normal size for steel plate is 4'x8'

5'x10' is totally normal for sheetmetal and plate. Price-out a sheet of 5052 aluminium or 304 stainless as thin as you can find, and put that over-top of a plywood or OSB or whatever table. Have a fab shop quote it cut to size but include bending return flanges on the ends a couple inches long so it's nicer to lean your body on.

The potential downside to thin metal over wood is if it gets dented you'll have to remove it and finesse it back to flat.

 

[510ebl]

Check with Fazio’s in Glassboro ...on the recycled/salvage side of the shop.

https://www.shopjfi.com/

 

[kwb]

I would be looking at a formica/wilsonart material. I have used it on a number of outside tables for the boat and has worked well. Edge treatment is a bit of work but not hard to seal up. Depending on color you can get 60"x16' sheets.

 

[danski0224]

What is a good source for a single smooth seamless sheet of metal that is 5' wide x 9' long? As for the thickness, it doesn't need to be crazy rigid, just not too thin. Thinking galvanized, coated, or aluminum. Maybe zinc.

Where could I acquire a single sheet cut to that size?

5" x 10' sheet metal should be readily available at a larger fabrication shop. Galvanized ductwork is made by machine from 60" or 72" wide coils. A fab shop with a coil line will have what you want. They might even be able to cut and form it. A small shop won't have a coil line or buy 5" x 10' sheets.

Architectural metal suppliers (metal roofing) should have 5' x 10' sheet stock.

 

[PugetDude]

Is there a granite supplier near you with a boneyard? Here in AZ, there are several places where you can pick up remnant slabs really cheap- and they can arrange for cutting to size and delivery.
A full slab or two 60" x 54" slab remnants wouldn't be that expensive.
Here's one example

https://www.theyardaz.com/shop/stone/Q1986

 

[MP&C]

Aluminum is available in a 60 x 120 sheet, pick your thickness and cut to length..

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Actually, I was thinking of the 4 x 8 panels of the Hardi product. It has a T-111 groove look on one side.!

Thanks for clarifying. I may look to see if it's available nearby so I can eyeball it up close.

Think cement

After seeing the post above, I kind of agree. I'm just not sure how you'd finish it.

I though about making a form and pouring it. Two halves if I go this way. Made a bunch of ground rain gutters this way a few years ago. It's still under consideration.

I would be looking at a formica/wilsonart material. I have used it on a number of outside tables for the boat and has worked well. Edge treatment is a bit of work but not hard to seal up. Depending on color you can get 60"x16' sheets.

Source?

Or maybe try to to get a cheap granite counter

Is there a granite supplier near you with a boneyard?

A couple. Either a bit pricey or difficult finding the right sizes. I may look again.

5'x10' is totally normal for sheetmetal and plate. Price-out a sheet of 5052 aluminium or 304 stainless as thin as you can find, and put that over-top of a plywood or OSB or whatever table.

5" x 10' sheet metal should be readily available at a larger fabrication shop...[ ]...Architectural metal suppliers (metal roofing) should have 5' x 10' sheet stock.

Aluminum is available in a 60 x 120 sheet, pick your thickness and cut to length..

Thanks, guys.

 

[bradpac]

Talk to an RV repair shop, they should have aluminum that wide. I'm not aware of light gauge steel that wide. Usually 48" - 48-1/2" is the widest.

See if you can find an old pool table with actual slate that someone is trying to get rid of on CL. That might work.

 

[rlitman]

...See if you can find an old pool table with actual slate that someone is trying to get rid of on CL. That might work.

Pool tables aren't that big. Large tables almost universally use a 3-piece slate design. Plus, the pockets are cut into the slate.

My circular kitchen table was cut from a "pro" sized pool table. It's 31" in diameter, which was the largest circle I could make out of the center slate (the largest of the three slates).

I've seen large 1-piece carom billiards tables, but they go for extreme prices (many even have heated slates for better consistency).

 

[Monza Harry]

I was going to suggest cement as well but I'm a day late and a dollar short [still, not again]. Concrete can be stained [acid washes and other techniques, I am not familiar with any of this though, colour (tints) can be added at the time of mixing and is expensive] and should be sealed for best life, it can be polished when finishing after the pour and before setting, or ground after finishing/ final set. I'll add that "Hardie backer board" is available in many thicknesses and is available in 3' X 5' pieces for bathroom applications. Now for my first thought on this, have you considered making it out of fiberglass? Waterproof, strong, tintable, DIY friendly(ish), and shape is all up to you you and your form making skills. A plywood core will be cheap and strong, but life expectancy will be compromised especially out doors, wood doesn't seem to last when fully encapsulated, Concrete little or no stone (rounded pea stone would be ok at an appropriate thickness. Some research will be needed as that is about as far as I'm willing to venture with someone else's money for a project this far outside my actual hands on experience. Harry

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Talk to an RV repair shop, they should have aluminum that wide.

Thanks.

Now for my first thought on this, have you considered making it out of fiberglass?

No, I hadn't. That is a great idea! It also makes me wonder why I didn't think about just laying down some fiberglass over ply. I have patched many sailboats in my life, and, in 1978 I coated an entire wooden board boat that my dad had built back in 1941, that I still sail to this day. It would be very difficult to sand down perfectly flat, though. And that wouldn't solve the deterioration unless it was completely sealed, which is more work than I would like to do if I can avoid it.

 

[PugetDude]

Thanks.


No, I hadn't. That is a great idea! It also makes me wonder why I didn't think about just laying down some fiberglass over ply. I have patched many sailboats in my life, and, in 1978 I coated an entire wooden board boat that my dad had built back in 1941, that I still sail to this day. It would be very difficult to sand down perfectly flat, though. And that wouldn't solve the deterioration unless it was completely sealed, which is more work than I would like to do if I can avoid it.

If you go this route make sure you do both sides- differential surface tension will cause it to warp if you don't.

 

[SuperCat]

Another vote for a cement table top, it would probably outlast all of us!

 

[PugetDude]

Lugz,
Are you playing ping pong yet?

 

[mrolds88]

My local ductwork shop has galvanized in 5' wide rolls. Cut to whatever length I need. You would need backing.

 

[OldNeons]

Build a form and cast it in cement. Make form inside from MDF for a smooth surface that you can polish more easily. There are companies selling these professionally built for reference.

 

[83VillageRepair]

I was going to suggest a slate pool table, often available for hauling away, but I see earlier responses suggesting that will not work. Pop up tent campers have a hard shell fiberglass top and I often see them for free after the tent rots out. Another possibility is a full size pickup hardshell tonneau cover.

Wade

 

[rlitman]

I was going to suggest a slate pool table, often available for hauling away, but I see earlier responses suggesting that will not work. Pop up tent campers have a hard shell fiberglass top and I often see them for free after the tent rots out. Another possibility is a full size pickup hardshell tonneau cover.

Wade

I don't think camper and pickup tops are flat. If they were, they'd collect water, so there always seems to be doming or ribbing, or something like that.

 

[LutzTD]

maybe if you can find it local MDO plywood comes in 5X10, would that work?

LINK

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Lugz,
Are you playing ping pong yet?

We never stopped. In fact, we had a little thaw here today reaching 50*F, I just cleared a few inches of ice and snow off it, and we (Kid #5/Son #3 and I) played today! If you saw the condition of the table you would laugh or be horrified or both. There is not much level surface left, it's rough all over, and one corner fell completely off when my son leaned on it too hard a few weeks ago. But we always play 'Best of 3' matches, switching sides, so it's fair, and we are getting a big kick out of it. I'm trying to think of an analogy. It's like playing 'country golf' in the woods, maybe, or 4-corner intersection baseball when you were a kid, Stop sign is fair, homerun over the neighbor's fence, etc.

I am waiting for Spring 2021 to do the improvement.

maybe if you can find it local MDO plywood comes in 5X10, would that work?

Whoa. That looks good. Thanks.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Maybe look at 5x10 sheet of MDO ( medium density overlay). It's a phenolic resin coated fiber over ext grade fir plywood, used for sign making, boats etc. All ready for paint, which it holds well. Available in thicknesses up to 1-1/8. Just make sure to seal the edges well. Any halfway decent lumberyard can get it for you and it won't break the bank.
Using it on current boat build -good stuff. Pic below.
Skiff

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Skiff,

LutzTD just suggested the same thing in post #34. I am excited about it.

Meanwhile..., the Games Must Go On!

 

[PugetDude]

Skiff,

LutzTD just suggested the same thing in post #34. I am excited about it.

Meanwhile..., the Games Must Go On!

Lugz you're really dedicated.
Is it hard to play Ping Pong when you're wearing pac boots?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Lugz you're really dedicated.

Pong is Life.

Is it hard to play Ping Pong when you're wearing pac boots?

Funny you should mention that. Like most close-knit families, we are very competitive about everything, and notorious trash-talkers. For example, I use old school regulation three-ply paddles with sandpaper or nubbed surface, he uses new-fangled rubber paddles. So, naturally, when I lose a match, I attack his perceived advantage. Footwear has been a constant rationale. I was on a long losing streak in the summer and when he noticed that I had ditched my sliders for bare feet, he knew the losing streak was troubling me more than I was letting on, so of course he let me know it. The day after it snowed, I was wearing Sorels, and he was wearing sneakers, and he used bad traction as an excuse.

It's actually a good thing that we are so evenly matched. We're telling ourselves we're helping each other get better for the next visit from the prodigal son, his oldest brother, who is legitimately very good.

 

[LutzTD]

once you get your new flat top, maybe you will miss the chunk gone area and the out of flat you can use to alter the bounce