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Pipe to use with my air compressor

Finally

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Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
59
Location
Tampa, Florida
The max line kit was an excellent buy IMO. I don’t know why anyone would waste time to find all the multiple connectors, rigging, guessing, etc. 100 feet of 3/4” tubing with 3 manifolds and other misc. connectors is $220 from amazon. Work smarter not harder. This is Easily the same or less than what you would pay for an Equal quality and spec from any other product. The best part is that it is in 1 box and ready to install. If you need an extra connector, Amazon is there for you and you will Get it in a day or two. The 1/2” kits are even less $$$

Easy to work with and install around your shop / garage.
 
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Hohn

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Aug 25, 2016
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Diesel Central, Indiana
I think to a much lesser degree, due to the wall thickness of the pipe, with black iron pipe providing much more metal to act as the sink. But then, I've never tried copper on compressed air.
This would almost certainly be offset by the superior thermal conductivity of copper.
 

HenryAZ

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Sep 18, 2012
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1,054
Location
South Congress AZ
This would almost certainly be offset by the superior thermal conductivity of copper.
Thanks for the info. I had no idea. But I'm not switching now :) with over 120 feet of black iron pipe in place and leak free. Our local old-time lumber yard had a commercial pipe machine that had taps, dies, deburring, and tubing cutter all motor driven, which made it very easy for me to run the pipe. When the machine broke, it cost too much to fix so they sold it. With the pipe, and more importantly being in AZ, I never see any water in the output.

If I had to do it over, I would probably use copper.
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
Messages
14,060
Location
West central Indiana
thanks for all your replies. You have given me lots of ideas..... oh Pex piping , just got my house re-piped with Pex , the copper started to develop pin hole leaks or little specks of blue/green. so Plex pipe will work ok ?
The copper started to pin hole probably due to acidic water in M wall thickness pipe. That would not be a concern with copper in an air system.

You need to ask yourself two questions.

What air tools am I running?

and

How long do I want it to last.

If you are painting or sand blasting, you want larger pipe, and copper would be a plus to condensate moisture. Also remember if running larger air tools with high consumption and you do pick a pex or pex derivative, that the ID of the pipe is smaller for a given size and crimp type fittings are even smaller still so the pipe should be increased a size to handle the flow.

As far as how long it last. Nothing is going to beat soldered copper unless its exposed to physical damage. Then Iron, while having rust issues will take physical abuse better.

Systems that use push connect fittings(shark bite, air brake line) and copper propress use o rings to seal. The orings have a finite lifespan, and in 15 years or so they will start to leak. Its the nature of rubber oxidizing. Push connect poly airline became very popular in cnc machines in the late 90's early 2000. Its a nightmare to maintain with all the splits/fractures/airleaks. My last employer forbade new machines plumbed with it, only hardlines unless it was a section to go thru a cable track or down a robot, then it was seen as a necessary evil. If you plan on being where your shop is till you die, these quick/easy/cheap systems are not cost effective over a long life cycle.

Good PEX (PEX A) is a good low cost alternative for the average person that is only going to spend 7 years in their home/shop before moving. If placed out of the UV life it will typically have a good 15 to 20 year lifespan. I prefer propex with the expansion type fittings. The tool is expensive but the joints don't leak, are very fast, and dont restrict flow like crimp fittings.

The Al-pex-al is nice stuff. I have installed some of it in the industrial shop I work in currently (3/4 and 1"). Its measured on the ID which is a plus. Its expensive however, the 3/4 Rapid air maxline I installed was more expensive(due to fittings) than copper. Plus with copper you don't have to straighten it.
 

volleyball

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Aug 29, 2011
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4,127
Location
NY, not NYC
A lot depends on your budget and needs/wants. I ran iron pipe due to lots of drops near the compressor and the heat transfer. I have a rapidair kit to extend the line to some exterior drops and to loop the system so that you can get air from both directions. You don't want a heavy air user down the line from someone painting or such. I have drop legs and valves at pots to collect any debris/moisture. It works well.
 

wantedabiggergarage

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Feb 25, 2006
Messages
3,897
Location
Independence, MO, USA.
One thing I don't see and am wondering is, are Pex-al-pex fittings the same as regular pex fittings? I have a Northern tools that sells some of the stuff, but they don't carry all the fittings in the quantity I may need since doing two places (relatives farm and the new garage)?
Thanks
 
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racecougar

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Jan 26, 2021
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Location
Missouri
If you're able to plan out the system ahead, you can pick up the fittings online in any quantity you need.
 

ycgoat

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Mar 28, 2020
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971
Location
S.E. Va
The other consideration is protection from physical damage, some one already mentioned welding slag but there is also tools and materials falling against it. The steel pipe will give the most physical protection of the air line, although if it is an issue the softer materials can be covered where exposed to physical damage.
 

Bill T

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Mar 28, 2009
Messages
140
Location
Easley,S.C.
Another vote for copper. As far as longevity goes, my I plumbed my shop 32years ago with copper. No issues as of yet. I have two 120 gallon compressors, 175 max pressure. I keep it regulated ariound 90 psi.
 

daddycreswell

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Mar 4, 2012
Messages
259
Location
Middle Tennessee
I am just now starting to plumb my garage for air. So for everyone using PEX or one of the Amazon systems, are you using any copper or black pipe to "cool" the air before tying in pex system? I do sandblasting and powder coating (hobby) I just want to make sure I do the system right the first time.
 

NakeDiesel

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Sep 6, 2007
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2,749
Location
oklahoma
Mine have been plumbed for a long time before pex was a big deal. I used 3/4" hydraulic hose as flexible connections from the compressor to chiller and chiller to first drain filter. The rest is all a large black pipe manifold along the back wall and to to my workbench. Work bench is barbed fitting to air hose to the individual ports and air hose real. I ran a 50' air hose across the roof to my other wall and the branch ports there for inside hookup and out to my outside hose reel. I have drains at various points with valves to clear out the system when needed.
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
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3,218
Location
Indy
I am just now starting to plumb my garage for air. So for everyone using PEX or one of the Amazon systems, are you using any copper or black pipe to "cool" the air before tying in pex system? I do sandblasting and powder coating (hobby) I just want to make sure I do the system right the first time.
If you have trouble with air temps out of the tank I would suggest a radiator style after cooler with condensate drain between the pump and tank. Cooling the air before it goes in the tank will help with temperature and moisture. The system I helped install is in a 2 man auto shop so the loads are relatively light compared to sand blasting. They do have a blast cabinet but it's not used much.
 

thammel

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Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
Copper for your water lines developed pin hole leaks most likely because you are on a well and may not have an acid neutralizer in the system. IF not, it would be a good idea to have one, even if you have switched to pex, because fixtures will also corrode. As to what to use for the air compressor, that's another story. I did my system in the past year using copper. Yes, it was not cheap, but here's why I went that way: looks great, availability of many different types of fittings to configure system exactly how I wanted, don't have to worry about getting black pipe threaded (or buy expensive tools to do it myself), very high pressure capability, etc. Plus I honed my soldering skills, LOL!!

Finally, I plumbed in a valve and a 6" drop below each quick connect fitting so that any condensed water would collect there and the valve permits easy quick draining.
 
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