Planning a garage 36x48

[bcounts]

Hello everyone, I'm planning a garage build for next year and I'm trying to get everything planned out. What I know now is it will be stick build with 2x6's and unless it costs more than I think I will be going with a 36x48. This is mainly to store the toys and have a nice work shop. I'm open to all suggestions on every phase of the build from foundation techniques/processes to insulation. I may need to do the build in phases, as in the foundation one year and then put up the framing the next, and then insulate and finish. Thanks in advance for all the suggestions.

To add to this I live in northern Wisconsin/Michigan.

 

[Diesel Dan]

To add to this I live in northern Wisconsin/Michigan.

Since I have lived in WI/MI as well here are my thoughts for that -30*F winter weather.
- 2" of foam under the slab
- floor heat
- wood fired external boiler
- closed cell spray foam for the walls
- metal roof with 6/12 or 8/12 pitch to shed snow
- 2' OC trusses with 1/2" sheeting

If you plan on staying there a long time I'd go for the stick build construction, JMO. OSB sheeting and metal siding would be my preference also.

 

[D.J.]

I thought of doing a garage in stages also but my contractor friends all tell me this is not a good idea. I was even considering pouring the slab and working off of it untill I had the funds to do the build but they all tell me this wouldn't work. They advised me once you start at least get it up and weathered in.

 

[jlongenecker]

Just finished a 36X48X14 stud frame shop. I'll tell you what I did. Not saying it's the way to go --just what I did.

8"X30" footing in Eastern Kansas. 5" slab with rebar on 24"OC. Vapor barrier under slab. 2"X6" studs 24"OC. Trusses are 4 foot OC. 26 gauge metal on 5/12 pitch roof. There are 1 foot overhangs all the way around. 29 gauge metal on sides with 4 foot wainscot. I put up metal ceiling with OSB sheeting on walls. Insulation is R19 fiberglass in wall and 12 inches of cellulose blown into the attic. Lighting is 8 4 bulb T-5 high bay fixtures. There are 3-3X3 insulated slider windows. Insulated doors are 10X10 and 12X12. 9 light walk door has a 4X6 gable roof for minimal weather protection.

I was able to have the stud frame done for less than the bids I got on post frame buildings. I especially wanted the slab on a footing rather that a floor poured into the structure after construction. I have a bathroom with dedicated septic tank which added to the expense.

The basic building with stubbed in plumbing, finished electrical, and a 12X20 slab in front of the doors was in the range of $45,000.

I would try the picture upload thing if there is any interest.

 

[48windsor]

I like your ideas. glad I read this thread

 

[J Persons]

I just built a 32X48 with an additional 8X10 room on the back to house the compressor, the blast cabinet and for storage. I used 2X6X12 framing. Tucking the compressor out of the way frees up floor space in the main shop and cuts down considerably on the noise. I'm still working on the building, installing work benches and compressor piping, and then will start on the insulation this fall.

 

[bcounts]

Thanks for all the great input!! I was hoping someone might comment on why not to do this in stages, I wonder why they say that? I'm guessing the sun and weather would make slab deteriorate quicker. I agree it would be best to do it all at once, but with 3 little kids it is hard to hold on to money if you know what I mean.

I've read a lot about insulating under the slab, just wonder how well it holds up over time. If I do not splurge for the in-floor heating should I still insulate the entire slab, or just the edges?

Any suggestions on the procedure for putting in fill, I probably need 4-6 feet of fill on the back side, and about 6-12 inches on the near side. I've heard taking a hose with a piece of PVC attached to the end and keep pushing it into the soil to make it settle, or to have the fill done a few seasons prior to final grade.

The wife wants it to "look" like the house which is vinyl sided, so I will probably do vinyl siding to keep her happy.

jlongenecker, the $45k seems high, what else does this include? I haven't priced out all the metal roofing and siding you did. Was this turnkey, or did you do some of the work?

Any pictures from everyone would be greatly appreciated. A picture is worth a thousand words!!!

 

[joe_padavano]

I built a 36x48 pole barn. Gravel floor for now. Did all the work myself. With metal siding and Home Depot trusses I've got about $10K into it, including metal sliding barn doors on the short ends (3 each 12ft wide doors so I can open it anywhere). This does not include any electrical or plumbing but it does include renting the extended forklift for setting the trusses. Figure about another $10K+ for a slab.

 

[38Chevy454]

My 26 x 48 is similar to what you want. See link in my sig below. My climate is not as harsh cold as you, but I still did R-19 in walls and R-38 ceiling. Wrapped outside, I have stucco and metal roof so it matches the house like your wife wants. Only real complaint I have is wish I could be deeper than 26, but that was my limit for where it needed to be placed.

 

[bcounts]

38Chevy454 nice shop, and thanks for sharing!!! Did you do 2x6 wall studs 16" on center? Was it code to stay at 16" and not go to 24"? I think the only difference I will have is I plan to put 2 rows of block as well to get the wood up away from the weather. Your 2" foam seems a lot thicker than 2", or is that just the picture? I see it has been 2 1/2 years since you built this, is there anything you would do different (other than going bigger of course....)?

 

[Falcon67]

There is nothing particularly wrong with leaving the slab exposed. There is a 40x60 next to my shop that has been sitting in the sun for about 8 years. It was built for a metal building and you could put one on it tomorrow.

I would say that you should make sure that once you start on the shell that you have the funds required to dry it in. There is a real feeling of getting a major build step done when you can walk in and close the door behind you. Plus you then have a place to store the rest of the finishing materials as you acquire them.

 

[Wadd2]

I am a contractor and I just had a pole building built last year. 33X46 with 12' ceilings for lift, insulated, 6" concrete, 96 T8 flourescent bulbs, outlets every 6 foot, 3 big overhead doors, plumbing and running water and bathroom and it was still 10 grand cheaper then stick building one with 2X6's just for the building, and that don't even include insulation, wiring, lights, etc. On the bright side, I just finished up a 36'X36' stick built with 2X6's for a customer and it was right at $47,000. It'll help pay for my building, lol.

 

[38Chevy454]

38Chevy454 nice shop, and thanks for sharing!!! Did you do 2x6 wall studs 16" on center? Was it code to stay at 16" and not go to 24"? I think the only difference I will have is I plan to put 2 rows of block as well to get the wood up away from the weather. Your 2" foam seems a lot thicker than 2", or is that just the picture? I see it has been 2 1/2 years since you built this, is there anything you would do different (other than going bigger of course....)?

Yes, 2x6 wall studs are on 16 inch centers. Roof trusses on 24 inch centers. Foam is 2 inch. My climate here is basically high desert, so I don't have the moisture issues that many do, so did not need the block stem wall.

Overall real happy with the way it worked out, with many good ideas borrowed from the site here before I built it. Of course I would like bigger, but given my lot and layout with prop line spacing requirments, this was the best fit. Probably two things I would change is:
1) extend the concrete around the outer edge, like a sidewalk, so it has a cleaner look and not get so much splash form mud in heavy rain, and 2) to put a real heater in at beginning. Right now i just use a radiant heater off propane tank. It works, but it does build up stink and moisture inside. I do want to put the real heater in, but at the time and since then, budget just keep it from being done. If I am here when retired, it will definitely need a real heater. Now for occasional use on weekends it is OK with the temp heater. Just open the door occasionally to get new air inside

I will say that finishing out the interior myself saved money, but drywall on a 12 ft ceiling done by me and my friend, both late 40's was a hard job. Drywall should have a warning that it is recommended for under 30 years old

 

[Diesel Dan]

Drywall should have a warning that it is recommended for under 30 years old

Amen to that!

 

[Graham08]

My shop is the same size as what you're planning. I did 2 x 6 framing, with R-19 insulation in the walls, R-49 in the attic, and 2" of rigid foam under the concrete. So far, the shop stays nice & warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

A link to my build thread is in my signature...I'm happy to answer any questions you have.

 

[Thumper68]

I built my 32 x 40 7 years ago. I would go ahead and put the tubing under the floor even if you aren't planning on using it right away. The infloor heat is so nice.

I built mine in 3 stages year 1 I brought in the fill, year 2 I poured the slab, year 3 I did all the rest. There is no issue with doing it this way the only hint to doing it in stages is to make sure not to get any mess on the slab if you are planning on epoxying the floor in the future.

It is very satisfying to have paid cash for the shop, There are only a few things that I would have done differently but they are minor.

Oh I also ran conduit and dust collection under the floor to a few areas.

 

[wedge40]

I'm in the process of building my 40'x56'x12' in stages. Not everyone is independently wealthy and make due with what they can afford. I had the "pole" barn put in August two years ago, a few months later I put in electricity and some lights. Just this last spring I finally got cement, with pex, and spray foam installed.

 

[matstng]

I built mine in stages... kind of. I bought a prefab steel building frame only and had it sit a couple years until I could afford to pour the foundation then I put up the structure with the help of a few friends.

 

[nolimits76]

If you do stages, I'd encourage you to do major stages. The slab being exposed shouldn't be a problem unless you plan on doing paint/epoxy which might require a special cleaning. Be sure to keep nails, rebar, etc off it that could bleed rust into it. Just common sense like you would do with your driveway that is exposed.

Stage 1: Grading and footings, and concrete slab.

Stage 2: All framing and siding so you have a dried in structure.

Stage 3: Insulation, plumbing, electrical, HVAC and interior finishes.

 

[bcounts]

I've been reading through everyone's threads and I think I'm getting overwhelmed by all the information. Thanks Graham08!!! I really like the overhang too, I might have to add that on mine as well.

I've uploaded (I hope) my current layout of where I'm planning on putting the garage. There are several factors why I choose this location. The house is on a hill, and where I have the new garage drawn in the back 1/3 of it will need to be filled 6-8 feet and the front 2/3rd's will need about 1-2 feet. As you can see my well will be centered on the two 12' doors I have in front (this well has been driving me crazy ever since I started thinking about building a garage). The left side of my property the neighbours are fairly close, the right side they are back in the woods a decent amount. I also tried to upload a picture of the area I will be putting it. I steaked out each door and corners of the garage (you can't see the ones down the hill). Any thoughts?